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I have a 96' protege, 1.5L, auto with 112,000 miles on it. Recently the car started missing so i went ahead and had a complete tune up done.The problem was solved but after driving for 1000 miles, its back on. I have checked it, even distributer cap is good not to mention the plugs and wires. I have shown the car to 3 mechanics, none of them could point out anything concrete. So guys your help is needed. Please advice what should I do next.
Thanks.
What did the tuneup include? For example, did you get a diagnostic report, were services like cleaning the throttle body included and were parts replaced?
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege, and over the past two months the rear right tire there has been a noise coming from it. At first it started as a rubbing sound. Now it is a loud clicking/ticking sound which increases as I increase in speed.
The hubcap has been removed, tires properly inflated, there are not objects stuck in the tread, and I have alternated the tires, yet the noise persists. My next step is to replace the brake drum.
Is this the next step I should take? Do you have any ideas as to what this clicking might be?
Thank you.
Mitch - Rowed2damascus
Where is the water temperature sender located, so I can connect it to the gauge?
thanks!
thanks
I just bought a '99 with the same rear door problem. I am wondering how you may have solved it. Did you have it fixed at the dealer? If so, which one? (I am in Vancouver BC, read your profile; same area?) Was the $600 accurate? Any other info I should know?
Thanks
S
Thanks!
Jeff
Jeff
Anyway, my baby (01' LX 2.0 sedan) made 60,000 the other day. How long (miles) can I drive before I have a problem? I am planning to take her in to replace the timing belt this coming week but just want to make sure i'll be okay for a few more days (I drive 40-50 miles a day).
I've had me spark plugs changed, fuel injection flushed, and my car checked and my service advisior said that everything is fine but I still have problems with accelleration and pick up and go. Just trying to increase speed or needng to merge on the freeway, my car does not pick up & go like it used to! I have the gas petal to the floor and nothing, just a very slow accelleration. Is this to be expected for a almost 5 yr. old car?
Many thanks,
Gang
I have this same problem with a 1999 Protege - have you found out what the solution is?
Here are my details:
I can put it in drive and nothing happens. Wait anywhere from 1 to 15 minutes for the OD light to flash and then the transmission will buck into first. Other thing I noticed is when putting ii into drive the RPMs will not drop until the transmission engages.
I had the transmission fluid changed with no impact on this issue. Took car to the dealer, they could not find anything wrong other than the transmission will buck when put into drive so they recommended a new transmission. No OBD codes - condition has to exisist for at least 5 seconds before a code will be stored.
Here is the rub, after getting the car back from the dealer the transmission still does not enage readily but now takes less time to engage, bucks less, and OD light only flashes occassionally. Yup, they did something and they're not telling.
Other than getting the transmission to engage their are no other issues with transmission - drives just fine. Any info gladly appreciated.
Thanks
Pedro
Now the problem is a short circuit somewhere. With the fuse for room lights on (#8 on the panel in driver's side) there is some cranking noise from the CD player, and this happens even when I unplug the fuse for the audio system (#3) while the car is off. This seems to be some messed-up wiring from the room lighting system, but I couldn't find a way to figure out where the problem occurs. Any suggestions, anybody?
Thanks.
I toggled the "OD Off" switch a few times and it functioned normally -- steady indicator light and ATX shifted properly from 3-4 (OD). I even checked the fluid while the ATX was hot and found a normal level with no obvious mal smell or discoloration. BTW, the fluid and filter were replaced last summer; my indep. mechanic found nothing unusual.
Arhggg!!! I'm going to AutoZone to check for any PCM codes. Anything I should look forward to? She's been reliable... hate to see a major failure at 67K! Is there an update/reflash for our TCMs? I'm hoping it's a firmware/electrical sensor!
BTW, my cruise control failed to engage properly once a while back... it did work okay the next restart. I'm guessing speed sensor in ATX...? Someone mentioned earlier.
Something is causing the ATX to force shift, affect cruise control operation and O/D Off MIL to illum. No leaks and fluid was changed routinely. It shifts through all gears including reverse and O/D hold works fine. Any thoughts?
The mechanic was baffled because the computer was fried again. He was confused the first time as well because he had never replaced a Mazda computer because they don't go bad according to him. Well, they find another computer and replace it. He kept it for a week and drove it around and noticed it wasn't reacting well and he had no idea what it was. This is a great shop and I know MANY MANY people that use it so I know they aren't screwing me over. He calls a friend at Mazda's service department and my car was towed over to them. After hooking it up to the computer they discover there is a shorted wire. Apparantly a small rodent, a mouse for example, had crawled up near the fuel tank and gnawed on a wire. So they patch the wire and all is well. I FINALLY get my car back and has been in my possession since then (all together they had it almost 5 weeks!)
Driving to work on Wednesday morning and the same damn thing happened, car died but at least I knew the signs and was able to pull over out of the intersection. I finally heard from the mechanic and he said it was the distributor, a coil is possibly bad, so it is covered under warranty. He then tells me that Mazda's distributors go out quite often - have other people experienced this? I thought that was going to fix the problem but there is still something going on. Have any of you experienced a surge in problems with the distributor, computer, etc. at 100,000 + miles????
Thanks for reading!
Rebuilt distributors are very prone to failure due to poor quality workmanship at some of the rebuild shops. With older foreign makes, rebuilt is usually all you can find.
Hopefully, Mazda has some positive input on the rebuild quality if you choose a Mazda Parts rebuilt distributor instead of one from ABC parts store. But even if they are all from the same source, most higher end (dealer) service shops will not charge you for labor when defective parts need to be replaced under the parts warranty. Most budget type service shops will charge for labor when replacing defective parts. This alone is a good reason to request the best parts available for repairs.
It sounds like bad luck with the short and bad part. I'd guess that once the new distributor is installed the car will be back to normal again.
I also replaced a cracked intake manifold. Other things that may go bad in the future include the muffler connection flange cracking, the A/C compressor clutch failing, the EGR valve clogging with carbon deposits, and of course, the spark plug wires degrading over time. These are not serious issues, just things to be aware of.
Bummer that shorted wire. Rodents can be a problem when they get into your car.
My wife's Saturn had motorized shoulder belts; I hated them. I recall the driver-side one did get stuck once. It wasn't the only motorized item to go out, though (moonroof once and driver side window twice).
Mechanic cleared code and car drove normally for about 2 weeks. Dreaded O/D light flashed again and car shifted roughly -- thanks Mazda for the crappy transmission! Mechanic confirmed that it was the same code upon rescan.
ATX mechanic and a couple Mazda Techs stated that the solenoid is relatively "easy" to replace and a common failed part (typically Shift 'E' and pressure control) on our ATXs. Part costs about $75 through a great online source. Not a great sign at only 67K and mostly freeway miles.
Anyone ever dropped the pan before and changed one of these bad boys? Clue me in.
Does anyone have any suggestions about where I should start to look for a problem? Because this is so strange, it is difficult to diagnose. Any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated, Thank you!
Can any one tell me how to remove these pins.
You can see a picture of these pins at:
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23200
Regards :confuse:
I OHM'd the solenoid directly on the vehicle and it read DEAD OPEN between both terminal A & B; the ATX case wiring harness terminals (D & I) already confirmed this reading.
Remove 10mm bolt and wiring harness. Then carefully pull out solenoid horizontally; you will get some resistance from the o-ring seal... just pull smartly and be carefull of sharp parts...!
Install the new solenoid by lubricating the o-ring with new ATX fluid and follow the above-stated directions in reverse. Push in solenoid gently and it should "snap in" place on the valvebody. I tested the new solenoid and it did indeed pass with a reading of 4.4 OHMS (normal = 2.4-7.2).
Since the fluid looked deteriorated (cloudy, dirty reddish), I changed the filter too. Really easy! Pull down old filter and put a new o-ring (or reuse old one) on the integrated pipe. Lube the o-ring with fluid. Gently push back up into assembly and reattach TFT sensor. Cleaned pan and magnet (pretty dirty after only one year). Reattached pan with black RTV (pain in the butt) and torqued bolts gently. Don't overtighten otherwise RTV is sqeezed out!
Fill up with new ATX fluid (Dextron III) at the dipstick orifice with EXACTLY the same amount of fluid drained during the service -- I got about 4 qts. Start up engine and check for leaks and fluid level. Carefully change gears -- WITH ALL BRAKES ON -- to get fluid in all channels and check fluid again and again. No more O/D light flashing and ATX shifts perfectly! Will see if it holds up during road testing! Happy repairing people!
Any help appreciated. Thanks.
-car stalls, when try to restart, turns over but does not catch
-cannot restart for a period of time (mine was only 5-10 minutes)
-signal lights do not work, dash indicators do not work
-stereo works fine, dash lights work fine
From what I understood in your post, it seems like the same thing. Have mecanic check electrical diagrams surrounding key. Dont check out the gas filter until youve tried this. Way cheaper and probably the problem. Good luck!