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sounds like a transmission, torque convertor, or driveshaft problem.
is there transmission fluid in the transmission? can you move it in reverse?
and ask the service advisor if any OBD (on board diagnostic) codes show up. Are you dealing with an independent garage or a Mazda dealership? In any case, best of luck!
Thanks for the manual link.
But after a few experiments and a little observation I realized I was exiting the car just a bit different there than I was at home for whatever reason. The conclusion I came to was that if I exited the car and was touchingthe frame as my feet hit the ground, the static buildup was discharged without the ZAP. But if I got out onto the ground without being in contact with the frame, the charge was built up and the next frame contact would dischsrge it with that spark, usually as my arm passed over the door frame and right through any coat I might have on.
Next time it happens to you, touch the frame again right away. If it's a one time shock, static is the culprit!
Recently my battery died, my trunk was slightly open for a couple days and the light drained the battery. Got it jumped, now it will start on its own, the headlights, brake lights, automatic locks, and automatic windows work. The stereo, the dome lights, the fob to unlock the car, and the trunk lights however DO NOT work. Any ideas??
Need help to order the proper Pressure Control Solenoid that going on the control valve in the tranny, The dealer isn't sure which one to order, I have the ode P0745 that points directly at the Pressure Control solenoid. I need a Mazda Part number if anyone has it or who I can contact to order this directly through. Help!!! Called everywhere and practically no one has any idea, quite funny and frustrating at the same time, the dealer parts diagram/list doesn't describe what each solenoid is...Talk about frustrating.
Diagnosing a transmission requires taking line pressures (to find blockages), visual inspection of the fluid, and at least, taking the valve body cover and fluid pan off. If this is all new to you, I'd suggest taking it in.
Do you at least have a factory service manual?
For reference, I have a '95 Protege with the original alternator and 2nd water pump (new Mazda part) and no problems other than occasionally having to tighten the belt when it stretches. 204K miles and still going strong.
So i came across the post that had a full Shop Manual (http://protege5.ugly.net/), but i don't know if it works with the '97 Protege.
I cant afford to pay for one off e-bay because im a starvin college student so any input is greatly appreciated...
Also if the two aren't compatible....does anyone know where i can find one online or can someone e-mail me it?
(shane@dyrdahl.net">link title)
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Did you ever find the answer to your misfire? Mine's doing the exact same thing. Replaced both coils, all 4 plugs and the boots and wires. I even checked the injectors... all is ok. But, flashing engine light comes on (randomly) and I lose power, if driving. Any answers yet?
Thanks
Independent garage replaced both front wheel bearings and the noise is still there. After that, I couldn't really afford to have any additional work done without knowing for sure what the problem is.
If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them, too.
I'm not that knowledgable about cars, so I don't know if it could be the CVs or tranny.
BUT... while it was running in the random misfire mode, it looks like I might have messed up my catalytic converter. I now have a check engine light on with an "inefficient converter" code. I'll be taking it into the shop next week to have them look at it.
Anyone have an idea if this will most likely affect the "warm up" catalytic converter up by the manifold, or the actualy in-line unit that is much cheaper to repair?
Have you determined the cause of the rough idle for your Mazda Protege?
I am experiencing the same problems!
You were right the first time. This seems to be a common issue. When I had a rough idle on my 2002 Protege5 last summer my Mazda service representative remarked "I bet it's the EGR, we've replaced a lot of them on the Proteges". As in your case, once the new EGR was in place, my car was back to normal.
I purchase a 00 Protege brand new about 7 years ago. I had no real issues with it until I hit about 135K miles. I have gone through 7 belts in the past 6 months. It's not the same belt though. Once it was my serpentine belt and then once I changed that my water pump belt would go. I took it to a mechanic about 2 weeks ago to have him check it and he said that he didn't see anything out of the ordinary. He said that all my pulley's are okay and nothing looked wrong. I still have a squealing belt (normally only when the heater is on). I can't figure it out nor can my father, father-in-law. Does anyone have any idea what would be causing the squeal?