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Let me know.
Was I will do in your place?:
1. Strip both engine
2. find the diffrences
It is simple engine, nothing special. You will see the diffrences.
YOu can ask for the parts list from auto parts and compare.
$ 30.00 is easy to spend. But $ 450.00, I will thnik first.
Mark
Vanilla Latte.
Where you are?
If the climate is similar to Michigan use 10/30. In very cold weather close to 10 F or below used only 5/30 ( if really is cold). 10/30 works..
If someone wants to come to Nebraska to get it I have a 92 metro i bought for parts (bad valves) good auto trans and good body. $50 takes it.
And for an earlier discussion on geo metros being death traps and no good on slick surfaces, if its slick slow down(here lies the fix for being a death trap as well), these cars have no weight (therefore they hydroplane easily, especially with wider tires or tires with close tread patterns) otherwise you would need bigger than a 1.0 motor to move it and consequently your mpg would drop.
I Love My P.O.S. rusty metro.
97 miles round trip to work 6 days a week 65-75mph, never any troubles.
also if anyone is interested i have a set of Panther Custom Wheels 14x7 3 spoke aluminum wheels, never on car and never had tires on them, 3 still in original boxes, that will fit on a metro. email.smoke@yahoo.com
Do you have any picture?
About the oils - if you drive more than 10 miles one way to work - do not use syntetic oils. The synthetic oils are good only for cold startups and short driving. The regular oils works fine. I like 10/30 all year around, good viscosity, break down easy and recover quick. Castrol and Penzoil is best.
THe 3 cyl. engine runs always around 3300 RPM at 65 MPH. (5 speed).YOu will need replaced the oil more frequently than on 4, 5 or 6 cyl engine.
My rules is - 3 cyl engine -3000 miles, 4 cyl - 4000 miles, 5,6 and 8 cyl. I go around 5000 miles.
My cars are over 200.000 miles and never have a problem with engine. Just basic service.
Use only WIX or Fram oil filter. They are very good.
Mark
Can I take the 4 cyl and bolt the std trans to it and install it into the '95?
...did they ever make a 4 cyl with a std transmission for
'95-'96 Metro.
...I just got done bolting up the std trans to the 4 cyl,
but now I noticed that rear engine mount does not line up by 2" and I wonder if the drive axles will work...?
....will I have to change the computer & wiring harness?
(will the '95 3 cyl computer run my '96 4 cyl engine if I get engine mts & drive axles figured out...?)
Help ....PLEASE!
I'm not sure it is worth to swap the engine and parts. Many differences in work. Somebody on this site made comments that computer CCM is this same. I do nopt belive, but?
Good luck
I own a 1995, 1996, 1997 Geo Metro's and a 1997 Suzuki Swift (a metro) so, I know my Metro's.
:shades:
I think my local independent mechanic charged me $500.
Be careful, though, the hose ends were not properly crimped in the kit (possibly so the length of each could be shortened if necessary). The vendor asked if my mechanic could crimp them; the mechanic never did, assuming they were already crimped. Result: leaks. The second time it happened I had the mechanic pull all the hoses & have them crimped - I haven't had a leak since (over a year).
The AC works really well - it's been driven from Amarillo to Arlington, TX, Lubbock, TX, & St. Louis, MO this summer, and it worked flawlessly. In the hottest & most humid area it's a good idea to set it to recirculate the air.
Hope this helps!
on my 93 1 liter. I found the marks on both cam and crank pulleys. good thing it is a non interference motor or I would have messes up the valves for sure. It Has 160,000 miles and runs great, hopefully I can get at least another 60,000 miles
(The motor I got to replace the blown motor had 175k on it and when I pulled it apart there was no cylinder ridge and you could still see about 60% of the cross hatch in the cylinder walls.)
:confuse:
:P
Vibration still there.
Could it be other front end parts? Wheel bearings? Could CV joints cause this?
If the timing belt is off one tooth, would this cause substantial engine vibration? The engine starts very easily
and the timing was just set by my mechanic.
Do three cylinder engines cause steering wheel vibration regardless of what you do or should we be able to get rid of the vibration? If I take my hands of the wheel I can see it shake.
Thank you for any ideas you have.
This doesn't effect shifting .. just want to snug it up a bit because I'm fussy about my powerful, babe-magnet, hi performance Metro! Thanks! DangerDude
Thanks,
I'll have the wheels and tires checked.
Best wishes.
Does anyone know the hub diameter of the 93 metro 2-door
convertible?
I need this dimension to order the set of hub fit rings
for the alloy wheels.
Thanks!
A wobbly wheel is the worst way to wind down a country road.
The hub size is 58 millimeters. Happy trails. :P
Should be smooth riding from here on out!
Thanks