Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Honda Civic (coupe/hatchback)
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I like sitting a little higher so as to fully see the hood and get an excellent view of the road. I owned an '88 Civic hatch and it had that perfect view - I just want it again in my '96. (The '88-91 hood is lower than the '96-00 model.)
Don't get me wrong - I like my '96 hatch alot and plan to enjoy it many more years. It's just that I set the mark a little higher for Honda.
Good luck in autocrossing with your Super 1600.
Can anybody help?
Thanks
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
I've had my '96 for just over six years now - but only 50K miles (three cars for two drivers). It starts and runs about like when new. So efficient with decent handling and power. The handling has been much improved with 195/60 - 14's versus the 175/70-13's that the '96 came with.
does anybody know if honda has any plans to introduce a 5 door hatchback (like a VW GOLF) in the USA in the near future?
i would buy one if the $ was right. i don't need the sporty 3-door new Si.
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Station Wagons Boards
CX manual: no power steering.
i owned a '90 civic HB manual w/out power steering and it was fine.
the only time power steering is useful in a little HB is when you are trying to parallel park in the city.
The DX Hatch also has a rear window wiper and the CX does not, but that's minor. Also, the plastic piece (mini-spoiler?)above the hatch at back of roof with the 3rd brake light is always black on the CX but matches the body color of the DX. I would choose the cars based totally on condition and price and forget about the DX / CX differences.
question 2. while driving in reverse (5 spd), all is normal. when coasting in reverse something appears to click with every rotation of the drive line. is this normal, the car is new to me.
Is the sound you are talking about a whining sound that seems to be coming from the drivetrain or is it a definite click? Are you on the gas or not? If it is really just a whine and slight rockiness when you let off the gas, then nothing is wrong.
Hope this helps.
the reverse noise is not present when driving with the clutch fully engaged or while engaging the clutch while moving from a dead stop. my driveway is sloped down to the road, so at some point i end up disengaging the clutch and rolling out the drive with the trans in reverse . this is where the click click happens. it sounds like some kid stuck a baseball card in my spokes. i don't get it coasting forward with the clutch disengaged in first gear. i do not believe i am hearing gear whine. i have had my share of straight cut gears in motorcycles.
my gas pedal will stick a bit when starting off or after backing off of the pedal completely and then reapplying pressure.
for example -- i will apply the normal 'gentle' pressure to get going, and the pedal doesn't want to move. the only way i can describe how it feels is that of an unlubricated door hinge. it takes more muscle to get it to do it's thing.
adding a little more pressure than i am comfortable/familiar with gets the pedal to work, but results in too much of a burst in speed due to the pressure needed to get the pedal to go down.
i tried to grease up the joints on the pedal itself, but that didn't help at all. any ideas?
the 2002 hatch is here. i believe the whole car is from england and shares no engine parts with the former sir or si. big hp, and lots or revs, sounds like real crap for city driving but fun in the twisties.
Thanks again jimjet!!
I also just finished the EX gauge cluster swap so if anyone needs a "walk through" feel free to email me.....
Revka
Host
Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
1) VTEC engine was tuned for higher mileage. Mag reviews at the time complained of a too abrupt transition to VTEC caused by this tuning.
2) Wheels where cast aluminum with 70 series radials mounted(narrower and lighter than the steel wheels on CX or DX).
3) Front end had a deep air dam reducing lift and increasing mileage at highway speeds.
Way too expensive to contemplate now - you can still buy an HX, so that is the way to get your hands on this engine nowadays.
Those VX/HX-only alloys looked really nice though - I have seen a DX here and there over the years that bought those particular alloys for appearance's sake. They are narrower, but also lighter, and reducing unsprung weight always helps to increase fuel economy....
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Kel
You said: "Now what i am wondering about is what kind of problems I should be aware of or special little things on how to handle this car a little bit easier."
To start, you can look up recommended service schedules, recalls, and technical service bulletins for your 91 Civic in Edmunds Maintenance Guide. Also, you'll find valuable information on vehicles/driving in Edmunds' Ownership Section? Scroll down the page to see their Tips & Advice articles.
Others here may have more to add. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your ownership experience. ;-)
Revka
Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
Reading the forum with interest about the delay in starting with a 1/3 of a tank or lower, glad my GF's '99 wasn't the only one! Anybody ever find out a reason?
On a fuel related note, her car wasn't started for a week, so the battery which was already week 9and orginal) finally gave up. Replaced it but the car still wasn't happy. A couple of bottles of dry gas along with 5 gallons from a can and the car started right up. Related to the delayed starting perhaps???
The car was running fine, took in on the highway for a good 25 minutes or so to warm everything up and blow out the cobwebs. Noticed the check engine light was on. Figure it was becuase the battery was disconnected, any idea how long it will take for the code to clear? Is there anyway to check the codes without a scan tool? I'm able to check mine by just doing an on/off sequence with the ignition.
Noticed the beginnings of a slight shudder in the brake pedal, read with interest the Civic is known for some pretty wimpy brake rotors. Any direct replacement rotors to recommend?
Tires were rotated a while ago, and a creaking noise has appeared in the front right suspension area. Thinking bumpstop or material used to quell noise shifted/moved when the car was on the lift. Anybody else have this problem and know what exactly is causing the problem? Wondering if they cranked the lug nuts down too much, leading to the rotors starting to warp.
Well, I think that's all for now, tehe. Thanks for any and all advice!
-B
For starts on first crank, turn the key and wait until the check engine light goes off. Then crank away. Supossedly this pressurizes the fuel system. My hatch always starts on the first try after I wait.
Codes? Look here - http://jdmfan.com/index.php?information=dtc
There is a TSB for the creaking noise. I have the problem to but, it doesn't happen enough that I care. I am curious what it is though.
Buy a Helm Manual, it is a DIY Bible.
The post suggesting waiting for the fuel pump to initialize when starting seems very right to me.
I don't expect more than about three years on a new car battery, so it makes sense to me that GF's needed replacement.
Dunno about the brake/tire/suspension issues.
Thanks for the link to the codes and how to get them without a scan tool!
-B