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Acura Integra - (All years/styles)
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Comments
only thing I didn't like about this car is that the front seats were uncomfortable after long periods
of time. I had 105,000 miles on it when I traded it. Despite the front seat situation, I am looking
for another one just to knock about in on the weekends. The only problem I had with the car
was with the some part of the ignite. I replaced it at $900 but about 6 months later I received
a letter from Honda saying there was a recall on this part of the car and if I hadn't replaced
it I could take it to the Aura dealer to have it done at no cost or they would reimburse me
for my repairs within reason. I sent my receipt showing I had already replaced this part and
within 30 days I received a check for the $900. That was the only time I had a problem with the
car. I took it in to replace the timing belt at about 70k miles. The mechanic comes into the
waiting room and says, " I've got something I want you to see." I go and he just touches the
belt slightly and it broke. He says, "My man, you got here just in the nick of time."
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The 90k mile service is a great place to start with your offer... Ask them to throw it in and you'll buy the car. Wait, I mean TELL them to throw it in or you won't buy the car. Definitely use this to your advantage at the dealership, or even if you're buying it private party. The 30k mile service intervals are the most expensive to get.
Other than that, great choice of car and I wouldn't expect any big problems.
and had no clutch problems.
The timing belt and H2O pump replacement will probably cost you around $490 at the dealership. They also replace all of the drive belts at the same time. The 90k mile service will run about $330 too and that includes things like: tune-up, repl spark plugs, oil change, refill all fluids, rotate and inspect tires, 21 point inspection, inspect belts, brakes, rotors...things like that. It sucks because they inspect a hell of a lot but they'll only tell you if you have a problem and then you get to decide whether you want to pay the extra or not.
There's definitely cheaper places to go, but I've always bit the bullet and taken it to the dealership because you know they work on these cars specifically. The prices I said are very recent since I just got my 2nd 90k mile service done a few months ago. I've got 202,500 miles on my Integra and she's still kickin' strong!!
I have an '87 Integra LS 5 speed which I've been driving for only a month. This is my first manual tranny, so I was wondering about a safe RPM range for normal driving circumstances. For example, in 5th gear, 70mph is pushing 4000rpms, which seems high to me. So I usually cruise at 65mph @ 3500 rpms. I just feel uncomfortable driving over 3500 rpms even tho it redlines at 7000, and I'm still getting used to the stickshift. I thought I heard that Hondas rev high; is it true I won't hurt the engine as long as I stay under redline? I assume higher revs means lower gas mileage. Thanks for any advice.
Caroline
timing belt, power steering pump, water pump, valves (if clearance is not o.), spark plugs (if not the hight speed temp. ones), even the engine structure (cyls, rings), etc.
Also, driving at 4k RPM gives you around 87mph on a G2 integra (mine) and you're a little bit over the speed limit, especially for long cruises, you increase the likelihood to get tickets
Another thing: high revs do *NOT* bring about low consumption. The consumption/RPM curve is not liniar and if you start going over 3900-4200 RPM (G2 integra) the consumption goes up faster than the road speed ... especially if your last injection,valve,sparks,distributor tune-up is not very recent.
my 2c.
1st->2nd: 3500RPM
2nd->3rd: 3000RPM
3rd->4th:3000RPM
4th->5th: 4000RPM
I tend never to go over the 4k limit. I know that guys with VTEC don't even think about going under that if feeling the vtec kick in is important ... but i was wondering what your city driving practice is. Also on the highway i cruise at 3500RPM with around 85mph. I am not going above that.
any impressions welcome.
thanks,
sion@cs.purdue.edu
ps. i am student and right now any car problems due to high revving or any other cause are very much unwelcome
1st->2nd 14mph (I shift at 10mph around 3000 rpms)
2nd->3rd 25mph
3rd->4th 40mph
4th->5th 49mph
I usually shift around 3250-3500 rpms. At 4000 my engine is too loud for me. I tried downshifting to 4th to pass someone and all I got was a lot of noise and no power. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, a month of shifting makes me no expert, of course.
I agree with you, Sion, about keeping it under 4Krpms. It's a 13 yr old engine with 210K miles and I don't want to buy a new car til next year. Plus my engine is smaller than yours (1.6L)
The funny thing is the tire guy told me the car requires a speed-rated tire.
And yes, that's me tooling along in the right lane @ 65mph on the highways.
Caroline
At least you're doing 65 in the RIGHT lane, unlike so many drivers around here...
I have a little '97 Civic DX and cruise at 80-90mph on the highway which is about 4K RPM. My commute is 80mi each way! I drive the car relatively hard.. I changed the timing belt at 91k mi. and didn't do my 1st tune-up till 83k mi. My spark plugs looked almost like new and so did the distrib. cap & rotor that I replaced. The wires were just a little dirty but I replaced them.. The motor burns almost no oil at all (maybe 1-2 ounces) at 3K mi, etc. etc. The car now has 118k mi. and knock on wood everything is going fine.
BTW, I have friends that work in Honda & Acura dealerships and they told me that it's very rear that a water pump goes bad on Hondas/Acuras. So did my mechanic.. This is why they want to replace your water pump when you go in for a timing belt.. they have too many of them sitting on the shelves in the parts dept. plus they make extra money.
In any case, on VTEC Integras 4K RPM is nothing. In my GSR I always cruise at 4K or higher (speed limit is usually 65mph and almost everyone averages 80mph). I have many friends with GSRs with over 100k mi. and they 've been racing them for several years/seasons.
The VTEC B18C motor and the B18B (g3 Integra non-VTEC) are well built with parts to specifically sustain high RPMs and compression ratios.
Now if you were talking sustaining 6K-7K RPM for long periods of time, that's a different story..
Enjoy your cars and rev them freely. That is why I bought an Integra. To experience the high RPM whine, have fun, and auto-x race with it on weekends.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Andrew
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
So instead of spending an extra $400-500 + labor on a header, get an AEM CAI and you will feel the extra power and enjoy a nice deep sound when you floor it..
The intake is not hard to install yourself or you can pay someone $30 like I did to install it (I was at the shop already getting sports springs and performance sway bar installed so what the hek..). The only problem with it is that you have to be very careful not to drive into puddles of water because you can suck in water and blow your engine or seriously damage it. I don't drive my GSR in heavy rain although I 've been caught in a couple of "unforseen by metereologists" downpours and I didn't have any problems. Many roads were flooded with 1" of water or more but I just drove slower than normal and avoided bigger puddles. There have been people that hydrolocked their engines though in just 4" puddles but most of these Integras were also lowered..
I agree with you, I wouldn't replace the header just for the performance gains (avg. is 4hp), wait till it gets rusty a little.. Especially when a header provides the best gains in the mid to high range which means you 'd have to rev it pretty high every time to take advantage of the extra power. Headers also improve your top end/top speed and most likely you won't be driving at 140mph.
My AEM cold air intake (I dyno'd my car the same day before & after) gives me about 10hp right from 1,000rpm and around 2K RPM provides a 12.5hp gain consistently thoughout till 8K RPM redline.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks for the advice. I'll have to look into the AEM intake.
Any help would be appreciated.
Integras don't have a lot of torque: 127ft-lbs (LS) and 128 GSR. You want good low end torque and pulling stuff and the Integras don't achieve their peak torque until they get into the high RPMs. This much weight will put a lot of strain the engine and tranny and it will be very slow to get moving off the line. You should look into a 6cyl. car or maybe the Prelude that has 154ft-lbs of torque due to its larger displacement. VW 1.8T also has 150 torque and at much lower RPMs which would be more suited for pulling a trailer and stuff..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I'm looking at a '96 model so the GTI is a definate no, but I do know that Preludes can pull becuase I've seen 4-cyl Accords pulling pop-up campers and ski boats (not at the same time).
My tastes run toward the pure coupe lines of the '97-present Prelude anyway.
http://pub19.ezboard.com/fg2tegsg2tegdiscussion
all your questions about g2 tegs(90-93) will be answer here..
This is the National Highway & Transportation Safety Administration. Click on the recalls and also the Technical Service Bulletins (TSB). The TSBs are tricky. If your car is over the warranty they may not do the work for free. But sometimes yelling and screaming works, especially if you tell them the car had this particular problem before the warranty expired. Always call the Acura helpline/customer service too. They would have the information you 're looking for and they can send someone to resolve problems between you and a dealership.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Check it out. www.vtec.net has a few more pictures of it where you can see the front of the car. It has a 2.0L i-VTEC with approximately 200hp. This displacement increase also means more torque. I would imagine around 140-150. Looks a little funky but the interior is cool with Recaro seats. This is a concept car though with 18" wheels and it's probably what the Type-R will get/look like. The article off vtec.net also said that the RSX's sticker will range between $15-20K! They probably plan to release a base model with much less than 200hp I would imagine. There 's no way they could offer a 200hp sports car for $15K, I can't imagine the new base model RSX having less than 150hp. It would also directly compete with the Civic EX. Why would anyone buy an EX coupe with less HP for $16K when they can get a base RSX/Integra? I 'm very skeptical about that price range that was mentioned.. It's possible the base RSX will be a stripper like the base Celica and once you 're done adding A/C, ABS, alloys, moonroof, CD, whatever, it 'd be up to $18K or more like the Celica. The base Celica starts at $17K and I 'm pretty sure that's where Acura has their cross hairs on..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I am interested in something i can get myself ... i don't want to go to Acura or Honda to do this ...
thanks,
sion@cs.purdue.edu
www.acuradriver.com/service/updates/98-031.asp
Can anyone help me with the pros and cons of these mods, b/c I have been somewhat concerned with the engine H20 aspiration problems of CAI's?
Also, I think I plan on driving this car only until the RSX or whatever they plan to call it comes out. Does anyone else have the same ideas?
The RSX is supposed to be out this year. The production model will be introduced at the New York auto show in April according to Acura. This definitely means the RSX will be out as a '02 model and some say it may even be realeased in late spring/early summer as an early '02. It just doesn't make sense buying a new car now, put mods on it and selling it within a year for the RSX.. You will loose at least $5K if you take in consideration the mods and tax that you would have paid..
BTW, how much did the insurance company give you for your '96 GSR? and how many miles did it have?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I set my tires in early November for 33F/32R when it was around 50 deg. out. I checked them again before Christmas when it was around 20 deg. and they were 28/27 psi! I had also noticed a less than normal gas mileage. You must keep them over 30 to get decent mileage.. Too bad you do a lot of city driving. I do mostly highway driving (80mi. commute each way!) probably 95% of the time and average 29-30mpg crusing at 75-80mph. The lowest I ever got with 50-50 city/hway driving was 26 mpg. You may also want to check your air filter if it's too dusty or have a lot of dirt on the roads where you live. Did you switch to another gas brand? When you go to the pump to fill up, make sure you pull up to the same pump over and over to get a more accurate calculation of your gas mileage. No pump is the same. With some pumps, you can put as much as 1 gallon or more in your tank than with other pumps. I have a suspicion that this is what's happening with you. You fill up at one gas station and then at another and calculate the mileage. You must go to the same station and use the same exact pump. If you drive around at the other side of the pump is no good. The pavement is uneven and you will get a different amount of fuel in your tank..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Anyway, did this come from a reliable source?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
"First, this car is definitely based on the 7th gen Civic chassis. The rear suspension setup is identical, except that the RS-X has a nice beefy swaybar back there where the Civic's I've seen have none. Additionally, the front end retains the Macpherson strut setup with the high mounted steering rack."
"The big question is the suspension. The new Civic hasn't been great in that area, but this car should be tuned more aggressively. If the aluminum lower control arm is a true production piece, then maybe Honda has taken a serious look at the McStrut setup for the RS-X."
I'm not saying that the RS-X is not a good car. I'm saying that it would have been a better car if the wishbones were left on the car.
Seems the author doesn't know much about suspensions. He keeps saying "lower control arm". Every car has 2 LCA's (lower cont. arms). There is always the left LCA and the right LCA. So if he keeps using singular, and it's silver polished or aluminum as he thinks, it's definitely a lower tie bar because 99% of the time they are aluminum. The Type-R is the only Integra that comes with lower tie bars and they are aluminum and silver in color.
If the RSX has a front lower tie bar then it most likely has a rear lower one - I hope. I like the sound of a thick sway bar which is the problem with the GSR today. The LS/GS/GSRs only have a 14mm rear sway bar compared to Type-R's 22mm one. Upgrading that sway bar (to like a 19mm like I did or 22mm) reduces body roll by like 95% and the car handles better because you have more tire contact with the pavement. Thicker sway bars also provide slight oversteer instead of severe understeer that stock Integras and most FWD cars suffer from.
The author also says that the Honda rep told him that the RSX will go into production in April. That's also good news because I can't wait to test drive this baby to see what it can do. I just hope I don't have a salesman in the car with me..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I just bought a '95 Integra RS 4-door with 57k miles. No problems. I just had the oil changed at a Jiffy Lube, and noticed that I now get the "Maintenance Required" light flashing for about 5 seconds every time I start the car. Is this just a timed interval thing that I can ignore--or is something really wrong? Thanks for your help.