is a great car. I bought one new in 92 when I graduated from college. I traded it in 97. The only thing I didn't like about this car is that the front seats were uncomfortable after long periods of time. I had 105,000 miles on it when I traded it. Despite the front seat situation, I am looking for another one just to knock about in on the weekends. The only problem I had with the car was with the some part of the ignite. I replaced it at $900 but about 6 months later I received a letter from Honda saying there was a recall on this part of the car and if I hadn't replaced it I could take it to the Aura dealer to have it done at no cost or they would reimburse me for my repairs within reason. I sent my receipt showing I had already replaced this part and within 30 days I received a check for the $900. That was the only time I had a problem with the car. I took it in to replace the timing belt at about 70k miles. The mechanic comes into the waiting room and says, " I've got something I want you to see." I go and he just touches the belt slightly and it broke. He says, "My man, you got here just in the nick of time."
were you lucky? The new timing belts now will go over 90k mi. I changed the timing belt on my Civic at 91k. I was paranoid that it would break any day. The service person told me that they usually go well into the '90s and over 100k mi. sometimes. I 'm not taking the same chances with my GSR though.. if I keep it that long, depending when the new Type-R is coming out :-)
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I'm considering buying a '93 Acura Integra GS (hatchback),5 spd, with about 88,000 miles, being offered at 5995. What should I look for? Given the mileage, what can I expect in the coming months with respect to engine problems and the like? What have been your experiences with this car? Thanks.
About the only thing I'd look for is a proper maintenance history. Make sure the timing belt has been changed, and if it hasn't, make sure getting it replaced is part of the deal, or you get a discount consistent with the cost of getting the timing belt/water pump replaced. I took both my Integras ('89 and '92) over 100k miles with zero problems. Likewise, I've got a '94 Accord now with 103k miles, also trouble-free, with the exception of a starting problem which turned out to be a loose fitting.
First off, are you buying from a dealership? Sounds like it if they're asking $5995. I would definitely ask about the 90k mile service and if it's been done. Chances are it hasn't and that's definitely $300-$400 you don't want to spend after driving the car for 2,000 miles. If the person who traded the car in got the service done at that particular dealership that you are shopping, they should have the maintenance records. Don't let them fool you by saying,"Oh yeah, we totally go through the whole car and make sure it doesn't have any problems." Remember these are sales people and going through the whole car means giving it an oil change and washing it. The 90k mile service is a great place to start with your offer... Ask them to throw it in and you'll buy the car. Wait, I mean TELL them to throw it in or you won't buy the car. Definitely use this to your advantage at the dealership, or even if you're buying it private party. The 30k mile service intervals are the most expensive to get. Other than that, great choice of car and I wouldn't expect any big problems.
Thanks to sakinosh and lancefixer for the advice. What has been your experience with clutches on these cars (90M miles seems a lot). If it has to be changed, does anyone have an idea of the cost entailed? Does anyone know just what maintenance work is scheduled for 90,000 miles?
I'm not sure if the igniter problem I mentioned earlier involved the 93 model also but I'd ask the seller if he had any trouble or had it replaced. I traded my 92 Integra in 97 with 105k and had no clutch problems.
I've never had any problems with my clutch in my auto 92 Integra. These cars are rock solid, and if you look in Consumer Reports, they've rated Integras from 92-99 extremely reliable with little problems. Lancerfixer has a good point, you need to make sure the timing belt is new since they need to be changed every 90,000 miles. And the water pump can be done at the same time since they've already taken everything apart. That way you don't have to pay for extra labor later. The timing belt and H2O pump replacement will probably cost you around $490 at the dealership. They also replace all of the drive belts at the same time. The 90k mile service will run about $330 too and that includes things like: tune-up, repl spark plugs, oil change, refill all fluids, rotate and inspect tires, 21 point inspection, inspect belts, brakes, rotors...things like that. It sucks because they inspect a hell of a lot but they'll only tell you if you have a problem and then you get to decide whether you want to pay the extra or not. There's definitely cheaper places to go, but I've always bit the bullet and taken it to the dealership because you know they work on these cars specifically. The prices I said are very recent since I just got my 2nd 90k mile service done a few months ago. I've got 202,500 miles on my Integra and she's still kickin' strong!!
Hi all, I have an '87 Integra LS 5 speed which I've been driving for only a month. This is my first manual tranny, so I was wondering about a safe RPM range for normal driving circumstances. For example, in 5th gear, 70mph is pushing 4000rpms, which seems high to me. So I usually cruise at 65mph @ 3500 rpms. I just feel uncomfortable driving over 3500 rpms even tho it redlines at 7000, and I'm still getting used to the stickshift. I thought I heard that Hondas rev high; is it true I won't hurt the engine as long as I stay under redline? I assume higher revs means lower gas mileage. Thanks for any advice.
The Integra is geared pretty short, so as to get maximum power out of the small engine. You're not hurting it at all by cruising at 4,000 rpms; however, I once did take my '92 Integra on a cross country (Rapid City, SD to Boston, MA) trip and found the noise got a little annoying. As long as you keep the car out of the redline, and cruise in the highest gear you feel comfortable in, you'll be fine.
Lancer fixer I don't agree with you about high raving it during cruising. 4k RAMs is still allot and stresses more on all the belts, the injectors, and pretty much everything else. Now, I am not saying that one cannot run 4k RAMs for hundreds of miles per day. What I am saying is that I think it hurts the engine on the long term in the following:
timing belt, power steering pump, water pump, valves (if clearance is not o.), spark plugs (if not the hight speed temp. ones), even the engine structure (cyls, rings), etc.
Also, driving at 4k RPM gives you around 87mph on a G2 integra (mine) and you're a little bit over the speed limit, especially for long cruises, you increase the likelihood to get tickets
Another thing: high revs do *NOT* bring about low consumption. The consumption/RPM curve is not liniar and if you start going over 3900-4200 RPM (G2 integra) the consumption goes up faster than the road speed ... especially if your last injection,valve,sparks,distributor tune-up is not very recent.
I'd like to hear your opinions on reving the (G2) integra engine. I have a stick and i am changing gears as follows (in case of nice, safe, city driving):
I tend never to go over the 4k limit. I know that guys with VTEC don't even think about going under that if feeling the vtec kick in is important ... but i was wondering what your city driving practice is. Also on the highway i cruise at 3500RPM with around 85mph. I am not going above that.
any impressions welcome.
thanks, sion@cs.purdue.edu
ps. i am student and right now any car problems due to high revving or any other cause are very much unwelcome
Into which gear, after fifth, do you propose brekke shifts in order to get his revs down at highway speeds? Should he instead drive at 60 mph on the interstate? Also, even cruising at 85 mph in MY G2 Integra (non-VTEC) I still got about 35 mpg. Not bad. Doesn't matter now, anyway; I moved up to the more family-friendly Accord.
My (G1?) manual says to shift 1st->2nd 14mph (I shift at 10mph around 3000 rpms) 2nd->3rd 25mph 3rd->4th 40mph 4th->5th 49mph
I usually shift around 3250-3500 rpms. At 4000 my engine is too loud for me. I tried downshifting to 4th to pass someone and all I got was a lot of noise and no power. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, a month of shifting makes me no expert, of course.
I agree with you, Sion, about keeping it under 4Krpms. It's a 13 yr old engine with 210K miles and I don't want to buy a new car til next year. Plus my engine is smaller than yours (1.6L) The funny thing is the tire guy told me the car requires a speed-rated tire.
on g1 & g2 non-VTEC Integras 4K RPM may be a little too high for cruising or at prolonged periods of time. On g3 Integras though I don't think it would cause much more wear & tear. I have a little '97 Civic DX and cruise at 80-90mph on the highway which is about 4K RPM. My commute is 80mi each way! I drive the car relatively hard.. I changed the timing belt at 91k mi. and didn't do my 1st tune-up till 83k mi. My spark plugs looked almost like new and so did the distrib. cap & rotor that I replaced. The wires were just a little dirty but I replaced them.. The motor burns almost no oil at all (maybe 1-2 ounces) at 3K mi, etc. etc. The car now has 118k mi. and knock on wood everything is going fine. BTW, I have friends that work in Honda & Acura dealerships and they told me that it's very rear that a water pump goes bad on Hondas/Acuras. So did my mechanic.. This is why they want to replace your water pump when you go in for a timing belt.. they have too many of them sitting on the shelves in the parts dept. plus they make extra money. In any case, on VTEC Integras 4K RPM is nothing. In my GSR I always cruise at 4K or higher (speed limit is usually 65mph and almost everyone averages 80mph). I have many friends with GSRs with over 100k mi. and they 've been racing them for several years/seasons. The VTEC B18C motor and the B18B (g3 Integra non-VTEC) are well built with parts to specifically sustain high RPMs and compression ratios.
Now if you were talking sustaining 6K-7K RPM for long periods of time, that's a different story.. Enjoy your cars and rev them freely. That is why I bought an Integra. To experience the high RPM whine, have fun, and auto-x race with it on weekends.
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I got a '94 GSR last year, and I absolutely love my car. I put a racing exhaust on it and it can tool many of my friends Z28's and Stang GT's (but they have older ones). I put a system in it already, which is taking up the majority of my free cash, but I looked into headers and intake systems. Unfortunately, like Sion pointed out, you don't get much power from headers. I mean 8 hp isn't a whole lot. I hear that intakes are about the same if not less. Both together will run about 500 plus instalation. That's a lot of money for 16 hp in my opinion. Turbo's are the best, but I will never have 3000 to blow on my car all at once. What is everyone's thoughts on that? Andrew
When I asked the dealer how much it cost to change the timing belt he told me about $450 because he HAD to change the water pump too and he wouldn't do it unless he did both. I took the car to Goodyear instead and it cost $225. I drove at 35k miles after that with no problems.
Would appreciate some feedback on the Integra S. I recently tried the Honda Accord, both the 4 cylinder and the 6 cylinder. Is the 4 cylinder at all comparable to the engine in the Integra? I found the 4 cylinder Honda noisy and rough even though there was plenty of power for the car. Thanks.
I assume you mean the Integra LS? (or GS?). The Integra with a 5-sp. is much faster than the 4cyl. Accord but it's not any smoother or more quite than the Accord. I 've driven my friend's '98 Accord EX (5-sp), and have been in a '99 Accord LX auto, and the Accord is definitely more quite than the Integra. The Integra is more sporty and handles better than the Accord which seems to have a lot of body roll. The Accord did seem to have decent acceleration though for a mid-size almost 3,000lb 4cyl. sedan, but the Integra is still faster with a manual tranny. Although the Integra is 140hp vs. Accord's 150, it's much lighter (400lbs) than the Accord and its drivetrain (tranny, clutch, shifter) is built for quick shifting and quick transitions. They are really 2 different cars. The Integra LS offers more excitement where I found the Accord EX 4cyl. on my 4 hour drive back from Atlantic City a bit boring at best, although very comfortable. I didn't think its engine was buzzy at all. I actually thought it was very smooth (averaging 75mph) and the ride was very cushy and soft. If that's what you 're looking for get an Accord. The Integra is the opposite because it's more sporty. You don't seek comfort and smoothness/quiet in sporty cars..
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
A cold air intake such as AEM is maybe $199 at the most and can add 11-15hp to your GSR as well as another 7-9 ft-lbs of torque. you will not get these power gains with anything else without spending hundreds or thousands more. So instead of spending an extra $400-500 + labor on a header, get an AEM CAI and you will feel the extra power and enjoy a nice deep sound when you floor it.. The intake is not hard to install yourself or you can pay someone $30 like I did to install it (I was at the shop already getting sports springs and performance sway bar installed so what the hek..). The only problem with it is that you have to be very careful not to drive into puddles of water because you can suck in water and blow your engine or seriously damage it. I don't drive my GSR in heavy rain although I 've been caught in a couple of "unforseen by metereologists" downpours and I didn't have any problems. Many roads were flooded with 1" of water or more but I just drove slower than normal and avoided bigger puddles. There have been people that hydrolocked their engines though in just 4" puddles but most of these Integras were also lowered.. I agree with you, I wouldn't replace the header just for the performance gains (avg. is 4hp), wait till it gets rusty a little.. Especially when a header provides the best gains in the mid to high range which means you 'd have to rev it pretty high every time to take advantage of the extra power. Headers also improve your top end/top speed and most likely you won't be driving at 140mph. My AEM cold air intake (I dyno'd my car the same day before & after) gives me about 10hp right from 1,000rpm and around 2K RPM provides a 12.5hp gain consistently thoughout till 8K RPM redline.
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I am looking at buying a 94-97 Integra LS/GS-R sedan with a manual transmission. My question is how is the Integra on pulling, has anyone tried it? Not that I am pulling anything heavy, I have a Yamaha Waverunner PWC that, according to them weighs around 600-750 pounds, plus an aluminium trailer, it would probably weigh somewhere near 800-1000 pounds.
I wouldn't pull anything over 500-600lbs. I believe 800-1,000lbs is a lot or over the recommended weight. I 'd have to look in my manual. Integras don't have a lot of torque: 127ft-lbs (LS) and 128 GSR. You want good low end torque and pulling stuff and the Integras don't achieve their peak torque until they get into the high RPMs. This much weight will put a lot of strain the engine and tranny and it will be very slow to get moving off the line. You should look into a 6cyl. car or maybe the Prelude that has 154ft-lbs of torque due to its larger displacement. VW 1.8T also has 150 torque and at much lower RPMs which would be more suited for pulling a trailer and stuff..
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I'm looking at a '96 model so the GTI is a definate no, but I do know that Preludes can pull becuase I've seen 4-cyl Accords pulling pop-up campers and ski boats (not at the same time).
My tastes run toward the pure coupe lines of the '97-present Prelude anyway.
The engine in my '91 Acura Integra occasionally cuts off suddenly. The battery light comes on, there is a clicking noise, and the engine dies. This has always happened at 20-40 MPH, but I don't know if it is speed related. I can get it started again pretty easily, but it is annoying and of course potentially dangerous. My mechanic replaced the fuel pump switch, to no avail. Another guy suggested an ignition coil but had no firm clue. Any similar experiences or ideas out there?
Rickslick, will you please look at message #80, also from me, and tell me if the "Igniter" problem you mentioned in your '93 Integra gave anything like the symptoms I described? Thanks.
I have a 1996 Integra LSS, and sometime last year received a notice from Acura involving a settlement with the EPA about some emissions equipment not functioning properly. As part of the settlement, some services would be given free by Acura dealers. I think I lost this paper, but I assume if you make the dealer aware, they would have to still offer the services. Can someone else who got this notice tell me the exact details?
You will find several problems and probably the "emissions" (I assume it's an emissions problem since you mentioned EPA) one at this link: www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/
This is the National Highway & Transportation Safety Administration. Click on the recalls and also the Technical Service Bulletins (TSB). The TSBs are tricky. If your car is over the warranty they may not do the work for free. But sometimes yelling and screaming works, especially if you tell them the car had this particular problem before the warranty expired. Always call the Acura helpline/customer service too. They would have the information you 're looking for and they can send someone to resolve problems between you and a dealership.
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Edmund's (as well as many other sites) have pictures and a brief article on the '02 Integra called the Acura RSX from the Detroit Auto show on Jan. 8th. Check it out. www.vtec.net has a few more pictures of it where you can see the front of the car. It has a 2.0L i-VTEC with approximately 200hp. This displacement increase also means more torque. I would imagine around 140-150. Looks a little funky but the interior is cool with Recaro seats. This is a concept car though with 18" wheels and it's probably what the Type-R will get/look like. The article off vtec.net also said that the RSX's sticker will range between $15-20K! They probably plan to release a base model with much less than 200hp I would imagine. There 's no way they could offer a 200hp sports car for $15K, I can't imagine the new base model RSX having less than 150hp. It would also directly compete with the Civic EX. Why would anyone buy an EX coupe with less HP for $16K when they can get a base RSX/Integra? I 'm very skeptical about that price range that was mentioned.. It's possible the base RSX will be a stripper like the base Celica and once you 're done adding A/C, ABS, alloys, moonroof, CD, whatever, it 'd be up to $18K or more like the Celica. The base Celica starts at $17K and I 'm pretty sure that's where Acura has their cross hairs on..
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I have a 91 acura rs when it rains water leaks onto the floor on the right side. I had the cowl panel replaced but it still leaks. the water is coming thou the heater blower and the seal between the a/c core and the blower. any suggestions
Actually, I found the document in my glove box. This one is a little hard to find info on. On the EPA site, they mention it, but without details. A website called Lemon-Aid mentions it in their "secret warranties" section. It covers all Integras from 96-97 (except Type-R). In case anyone isn't aware of this, or didn't get Acura's notification, here's a link to the details: www.acuradriver.com/service/updates/98-031.asp
I recently had my '96 GS-R stolen from my driveway, and I will be purchasing a new GS-R from my dealer with a nice State Farm check. I have thought about helping my new GS-R breath better, and have considered a CAI and possibly exhaust mods. I want to keep the external appearance of the car almost completely intact, since some people obviously feel they need my cars more than I do.
Can anyone help me with the pros and cons of these mods, b/c I have been somewhat concerned with the engine H20 aspiration problems of CAI's?
Also, I think I plan on driving this car only until the RSX or whatever they plan to call it comes out. Does anyone else have the same ideas?
I wanted to ask someone what the difference is between cat back systems and rear sections. I assume that rear sections are just that, the end of an entire cat back system. But I think I may be overlooking something. Anyway, if someone can help set me straight I would appreciate it.
Don't get a '01 GSR now if you plan on buying the new RSX!! You will loose a lot of money. You 'll probably pay $20K + tax for the '01 GSR and in a year or less when the RSX is out you will probably get about $18K if you sell it on your own or about $16-17K from the dealer trade-in The RSX is supposed to be out this year. The production model will be introduced at the New York auto show in April according to Acura. This definitely means the RSX will be out as a '02 model and some say it may even be realeased in late spring/early summer as an early '02. It just doesn't make sense buying a new car now, put mods on it and selling it within a year for the RSX.. You will loose at least $5K if you take in consideration the mods and tax that you would have paid.. BTW, how much did the insurance company give you for your '96 GSR? and how many miles did it have?
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I actually attempted to post you a response when I first saw your message but I accidentally erased it. My dad worked for a Ford dealership and one day I stopped in to visit. While driving on the lot I heard this awful ticking or scrubbing noise. I just knew it was one of those CRAPPY Fords but when I opened the door I was surprised to c that it was my beloved Integra. It did make a ticking noise but I don't remember if the battery lite came on because I shut the car off immediately and left the car over nite. I believe it mite be the same problem. If you call Honda/Acura cust serv and give them the VIN they might be able to tell you if they have records of your car being serviced. Good luck!!!!
The only reason I am buying an '01 GS-R is I don't have the option of buying a used GS-R, due to the lack of supply. It is simply impossible to find them anywhere near here, especially in good condition. In response to your question, my '96 GS-R had less than 60K mi. and my insurance company paid me NADA book value which was just over $14K less my $500 deductable. So I think I am going to transfer about $10K in equity to the '01 and utilize a balloon payment schedule for the rest, which will make my payments virtually non-existant. This is not the optimum financial situation, however it is not that big of a deal. I'm not strapped for cash and I don't want to drive anything other than an Acura, I just love them.
Has Anyone seen it at the Car Show, I have a 93 Hatchback , and have been looking for a new car but Like Hatchbacks. Is the New RSX a Hatchback ? any other info would be great
The RSX is the replacement for the integra, and will be a hatchback. Check out the concept pics @ www.vtec.net. It will not be out until Summer '01 at the earliest.
I have a 2000 GSR coupe, It's got about 16000 mi. Recently I observed that the gas mileage I get for city driving is about 21 MPG, it used to be aroung 25 MPG afew months ago. Is this expected? or is something wrong? Any suggestion/help is appreciated.
Just like the 2001 Honda Civic, the upcoming Acura RSX will lose the much-loved double wishbone suspension. I, for one, am very disappointed. The wishbones are Honda's trump card when in comes to smaller cars. Why is Honda decontenting their cars?
Check the tire pressure. I don't know where you live but when it's cold out the tire pressure drops dramatically. It's about 1-2 psi for every 10 degrees! So if you were running lets say 35F/33R (factory settings) in the summer, and you live in the North East like me, your tires could now be around 25F/23R psi which will affect your gas mileage. Your car also takes longer to warm up in the cold weather which also affects mileage. I set my tires in early November for 33F/32R when it was around 50 deg. out. I checked them again before Christmas when it was around 20 deg. and they were 28/27 psi! I had also noticed a less than normal gas mileage. You must keep them over 30 to get decent mileage.. Too bad you do a lot of city driving. I do mostly highway driving (80mi. commute each way!) probably 95% of the time and average 29-30mpg crusing at 75-80mph. The lowest I ever got with 50-50 city/hway driving was 26 mpg. You may also want to check your air filter if it's too dusty or have a lot of dirt on the roads where you live. Did you switch to another gas brand? When you go to the pump to fill up, make sure you pull up to the same pump over and over to get a more accurate calculation of your gas mileage. No pump is the same. With some pumps, you can put as much as 1 gallon or more in your tank than with other pumps. I have a suspicion that this is what's happening with you. You fill up at one gas station and then at another and calculate the mileage. You must go to the same station and use the same exact pump. If you drive around at the other side of the pump is no good. The pavement is uneven and you will get a different amount of fuel in your tank..
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
where did you guys hear about the lack of wishbone suspension in the RSX? None of the articles I read mentioned anything about that. I just can't believe the suspension could be worse because the RSX will be competing with the Celica which has great handling. It also doesn't mean that if the double-wishbone suspension is gone, the car won't handle as good. It 's very possible Honda has come up with a new patented suspension like Honda racing does all the time with their race cars. A race shop (Honda/Acura specialist performance shop) in NYC where I get my mods done, has a Civic drag racer (560hp at the wheels with a GSR motor!) that has an all new suspension on it that was made by some company that is patenting it now as we speak. I saw the car in the shop but I couldn't take a good look underneath.. It ran the 1/4 in 10.1 sec. and with crappy slicks that melted at the end of the 1st run! Anyway, did this come from a reliable source?
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
See http://www.vtec.net/news/items/600.html for Shawn Church's impressions on the new RSX. The wishbones are gone. Every car magazine is belly-aching for its loss in the 2001 Honda Civic, which made the Civic just a run-of-the-mill type of compact car in the same league as the Corolla. Quoted directly from Shawn's post:
"First, this car is definitely based on the 7th gen Civic chassis. The rear suspension setup is identical, except that the RS-X has a nice beefy swaybar back there where the Civic's I've seen have none. Additionally, the front end retains the Macpherson strut setup with the high mounted steering rack."
"The big question is the suspension. The new Civic hasn't been great in that area, but this car should be tuned more aggressively. If the aluminum lower control arm is a true production piece, then maybe Honda has taken a serious look at the McStrut setup for the RS-X."
I'm not saying that the RS-X is not a good car. I'm saying that it would have been a better car if the wishbones were left on the car.
Ok, I read the article. I had been on that web page last week but only had looked at the pics.. Anyway, yes, it looks like the wishbone susp. is gone but only in the front! The Civic still has it in the rear and so does the RSX. The shiny silver bar the author saw underneath the car was a performance lower tie bar which is usually added when people modify their cars. It connects the 2 lower control arms together for rigidity and less movement, thus better sharper handling. Seems the author doesn't know much about suspensions. He keeps saying "lower control arm". Every car has 2 LCA's (lower cont. arms). There is always the left LCA and the right LCA. So if he keeps using singular, and it's silver polished or aluminum as he thinks, it's definitely a lower tie bar because 99% of the time they are aluminum. The Type-R is the only Integra that comes with lower tie bars and they are aluminum and silver in color. If the RSX has a front lower tie bar then it most likely has a rear lower one - I hope. I like the sound of a thick sway bar which is the problem with the GSR today. The LS/GS/GSRs only have a 14mm rear sway bar compared to Type-R's 22mm one. Upgrading that sway bar (to like a 19mm like I did or 22mm) reduces body roll by like 95% and the car handles better because you have more tire contact with the pavement. Thicker sway bars also provide slight oversteer instead of severe understeer that stock Integras and most FWD cars suffer from. The author also says that the Honda rep told him that the RSX will go into production in April. That's also good news because I can't wait to test drive this baby to see what it can do. I just hope I don't have a salesman in the car with me..
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I just bought a '95 Integra RS 4-door with 57k miles. No problems. I just had the oil changed at a Jiffy Lube, and noticed that I now get the "Maintenance Required" light flashing for about 5 seconds every time I start the car. Is this just a timed interval thing that I can ignore--or is something really wrong? Thanks for your help.
Comments
only thing I didn't like about this car is that the front seats were uncomfortable after long periods
of time. I had 105,000 miles on it when I traded it. Despite the front seat situation, I am looking
for another one just to knock about in on the weekends. The only problem I had with the car
was with the some part of the ignite. I replaced it at $900 but about 6 months later I received
a letter from Honda saying there was a recall on this part of the car and if I hadn't replaced
it I could take it to the Aura dealer to have it done at no cost or they would reimburse me
for my repairs within reason. I sent my receipt showing I had already replaced this part and
within 30 days I received a check for the $900. That was the only time I had a problem with the
car. I took it in to replace the timing belt at about 70k miles. The mechanic comes into the
waiting room and says, " I've got something I want you to see." I go and he just touches the
belt slightly and it broke. He says, "My man, you got here just in the nick of time."
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The 90k mile service is a great place to start with your offer... Ask them to throw it in and you'll buy the car. Wait, I mean TELL them to throw it in or you won't buy the car. Definitely use this to your advantage at the dealership, or even if you're buying it private party. The 30k mile service intervals are the most expensive to get.
Other than that, great choice of car and I wouldn't expect any big problems.
and had no clutch problems.
The timing belt and H2O pump replacement will probably cost you around $490 at the dealership. They also replace all of the drive belts at the same time. The 90k mile service will run about $330 too and that includes things like: tune-up, repl spark plugs, oil change, refill all fluids, rotate and inspect tires, 21 point inspection, inspect belts, brakes, rotors...things like that. It sucks because they inspect a hell of a lot but they'll only tell you if you have a problem and then you get to decide whether you want to pay the extra or not.
There's definitely cheaper places to go, but I've always bit the bullet and taken it to the dealership because you know they work on these cars specifically. The prices I said are very recent since I just got my 2nd 90k mile service done a few months ago. I've got 202,500 miles on my Integra and she's still kickin' strong!!
I have an '87 Integra LS 5 speed which I've been driving for only a month. This is my first manual tranny, so I was wondering about a safe RPM range for normal driving circumstances. For example, in 5th gear, 70mph is pushing 4000rpms, which seems high to me. So I usually cruise at 65mph @ 3500 rpms. I just feel uncomfortable driving over 3500 rpms even tho it redlines at 7000, and I'm still getting used to the stickshift. I thought I heard that Hondas rev high; is it true I won't hurt the engine as long as I stay under redline? I assume higher revs means lower gas mileage. Thanks for any advice.
Caroline
timing belt, power steering pump, water pump, valves (if clearance is not o.), spark plugs (if not the hight speed temp. ones), even the engine structure (cyls, rings), etc.
Also, driving at 4k RPM gives you around 87mph on a G2 integra (mine) and you're a little bit over the speed limit, especially for long cruises, you increase the likelihood to get tickets
Another thing: high revs do *NOT* bring about low consumption. The consumption/RPM curve is not liniar and if you start going over 3900-4200 RPM (G2 integra) the consumption goes up faster than the road speed ... especially if your last injection,valve,sparks,distributor tune-up is not very recent.
my 2c.
1st->2nd: 3500RPM
2nd->3rd: 3000RPM
3rd->4th:3000RPM
4th->5th: 4000RPM
I tend never to go over the 4k limit. I know that guys with VTEC don't even think about going under that if feeling the vtec kick in is important ... but i was wondering what your city driving practice is. Also on the highway i cruise at 3500RPM with around 85mph. I am not going above that.
any impressions welcome.
thanks,
sion@cs.purdue.edu
ps. i am student and right now any car problems due to high revving or any other cause are very much unwelcome
1st->2nd 14mph (I shift at 10mph around 3000 rpms)
2nd->3rd 25mph
3rd->4th 40mph
4th->5th 49mph
I usually shift around 3250-3500 rpms. At 4000 my engine is too loud for me. I tried downshifting to 4th to pass someone and all I got was a lot of noise and no power. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, a month of shifting makes me no expert, of course.
I agree with you, Sion, about keeping it under 4Krpms. It's a 13 yr old engine with 210K miles and I don't want to buy a new car til next year. Plus my engine is smaller than yours (1.6L)
The funny thing is the tire guy told me the car requires a speed-rated tire.
And yes, that's me tooling along in the right lane @ 65mph on the highways.
Caroline
At least you're doing 65 in the RIGHT lane, unlike so many drivers around here...
I have a little '97 Civic DX and cruise at 80-90mph on the highway which is about 4K RPM. My commute is 80mi each way! I drive the car relatively hard.. I changed the timing belt at 91k mi. and didn't do my 1st tune-up till 83k mi. My spark plugs looked almost like new and so did the distrib. cap & rotor that I replaced. The wires were just a little dirty but I replaced them.. The motor burns almost no oil at all (maybe 1-2 ounces) at 3K mi, etc. etc. The car now has 118k mi. and knock on wood everything is going fine.
BTW, I have friends that work in Honda & Acura dealerships and they told me that it's very rear that a water pump goes bad on Hondas/Acuras. So did my mechanic.. This is why they want to replace your water pump when you go in for a timing belt.. they have too many of them sitting on the shelves in the parts dept. plus they make extra money.
In any case, on VTEC Integras 4K RPM is nothing. In my GSR I always cruise at 4K or higher (speed limit is usually 65mph and almost everyone averages 80mph). I have many friends with GSRs with over 100k mi. and they 've been racing them for several years/seasons.
The VTEC B18C motor and the B18B (g3 Integra non-VTEC) are well built with parts to specifically sustain high RPMs and compression ratios.
Now if you were talking sustaining 6K-7K RPM for long periods of time, that's a different story..
Enjoy your cars and rev them freely. That is why I bought an Integra. To experience the high RPM whine, have fun, and auto-x race with it on weekends.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Andrew
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
So instead of spending an extra $400-500 + labor on a header, get an AEM CAI and you will feel the extra power and enjoy a nice deep sound when you floor it..
The intake is not hard to install yourself or you can pay someone $30 like I did to install it (I was at the shop already getting sports springs and performance sway bar installed so what the hek..). The only problem with it is that you have to be very careful not to drive into puddles of water because you can suck in water and blow your engine or seriously damage it. I don't drive my GSR in heavy rain although I 've been caught in a couple of "unforseen by metereologists" downpours and I didn't have any problems. Many roads were flooded with 1" of water or more but I just drove slower than normal and avoided bigger puddles. There have been people that hydrolocked their engines though in just 4" puddles but most of these Integras were also lowered..
I agree with you, I wouldn't replace the header just for the performance gains (avg. is 4hp), wait till it gets rusty a little.. Especially when a header provides the best gains in the mid to high range which means you 'd have to rev it pretty high every time to take advantage of the extra power. Headers also improve your top end/top speed and most likely you won't be driving at 140mph.
My AEM cold air intake (I dyno'd my car the same day before & after) gives me about 10hp right from 1,000rpm and around 2K RPM provides a 12.5hp gain consistently thoughout till 8K RPM redline.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Thanks for the advice. I'll have to look into the AEM intake.
Any help would be appreciated.
Integras don't have a lot of torque: 127ft-lbs (LS) and 128 GSR. You want good low end torque and pulling stuff and the Integras don't achieve their peak torque until they get into the high RPMs. This much weight will put a lot of strain the engine and tranny and it will be very slow to get moving off the line. You should look into a 6cyl. car or maybe the Prelude that has 154ft-lbs of torque due to its larger displacement. VW 1.8T also has 150 torque and at much lower RPMs which would be more suited for pulling a trailer and stuff..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I'm looking at a '96 model so the GTI is a definate no, but I do know that Preludes can pull becuase I've seen 4-cyl Accords pulling pop-up campers and ski boats (not at the same time).
My tastes run toward the pure coupe lines of the '97-present Prelude anyway.
http://pub19.ezboard.com/fg2tegsg2tegdiscussion
all your questions about g2 tegs(90-93) will be answer here..
This is the National Highway & Transportation Safety Administration. Click on the recalls and also the Technical Service Bulletins (TSB). The TSBs are tricky. If your car is over the warranty they may not do the work for free. But sometimes yelling and screaming works, especially if you tell them the car had this particular problem before the warranty expired. Always call the Acura helpline/customer service too. They would have the information you 're looking for and they can send someone to resolve problems between you and a dealership.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Check it out. www.vtec.net has a few more pictures of it where you can see the front of the car. It has a 2.0L i-VTEC with approximately 200hp. This displacement increase also means more torque. I would imagine around 140-150. Looks a little funky but the interior is cool with Recaro seats. This is a concept car though with 18" wheels and it's probably what the Type-R will get/look like. The article off vtec.net also said that the RSX's sticker will range between $15-20K! They probably plan to release a base model with much less than 200hp I would imagine. There 's no way they could offer a 200hp sports car for $15K, I can't imagine the new base model RSX having less than 150hp. It would also directly compete with the Civic EX. Why would anyone buy an EX coupe with less HP for $16K when they can get a base RSX/Integra? I 'm very skeptical about that price range that was mentioned.. It's possible the base RSX will be a stripper like the base Celica and once you 're done adding A/C, ABS, alloys, moonroof, CD, whatever, it 'd be up to $18K or more like the Celica. The base Celica starts at $17K and I 'm pretty sure that's where Acura has their cross hairs on..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I am interested in something i can get myself ... i don't want to go to Acura or Honda to do this ...
thanks,
sion@cs.purdue.edu
www.acuradriver.com/service/updates/98-031.asp
Can anyone help me with the pros and cons of these mods, b/c I have been somewhat concerned with the engine H20 aspiration problems of CAI's?
Also, I think I plan on driving this car only until the RSX or whatever they plan to call it comes out. Does anyone else have the same ideas?
The RSX is supposed to be out this year. The production model will be introduced at the New York auto show in April according to Acura. This definitely means the RSX will be out as a '02 model and some say it may even be realeased in late spring/early summer as an early '02. It just doesn't make sense buying a new car now, put mods on it and selling it within a year for the RSX.. You will loose at least $5K if you take in consideration the mods and tax that you would have paid..
BTW, how much did the insurance company give you for your '96 GSR? and how many miles did it have?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I set my tires in early November for 33F/32R when it was around 50 deg. out. I checked them again before Christmas when it was around 20 deg. and they were 28/27 psi! I had also noticed a less than normal gas mileage. You must keep them over 30 to get decent mileage.. Too bad you do a lot of city driving. I do mostly highway driving (80mi. commute each way!) probably 95% of the time and average 29-30mpg crusing at 75-80mph. The lowest I ever got with 50-50 city/hway driving was 26 mpg. You may also want to check your air filter if it's too dusty or have a lot of dirt on the roads where you live. Did you switch to another gas brand? When you go to the pump to fill up, make sure you pull up to the same pump over and over to get a more accurate calculation of your gas mileage. No pump is the same. With some pumps, you can put as much as 1 gallon or more in your tank than with other pumps. I have a suspicion that this is what's happening with you. You fill up at one gas station and then at another and calculate the mileage. You must go to the same station and use the same exact pump. If you drive around at the other side of the pump is no good. The pavement is uneven and you will get a different amount of fuel in your tank..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Anyway, did this come from a reliable source?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
"First, this car is definitely based on the 7th gen Civic chassis. The rear suspension setup is identical, except that the RS-X has a nice beefy swaybar back there where the Civic's I've seen have none. Additionally, the front end retains the Macpherson strut setup with the high mounted steering rack."
"The big question is the suspension. The new Civic hasn't been great in that area, but this car should be tuned more aggressively. If the aluminum lower control arm is a true production piece, then maybe Honda has taken a serious look at the McStrut setup for the RS-X."
I'm not saying that the RS-X is not a good car. I'm saying that it would have been a better car if the wishbones were left on the car.
Seems the author doesn't know much about suspensions. He keeps saying "lower control arm". Every car has 2 LCA's (lower cont. arms). There is always the left LCA and the right LCA. So if he keeps using singular, and it's silver polished or aluminum as he thinks, it's definitely a lower tie bar because 99% of the time they are aluminum. The Type-R is the only Integra that comes with lower tie bars and they are aluminum and silver in color.
If the RSX has a front lower tie bar then it most likely has a rear lower one - I hope. I like the sound of a thick sway bar which is the problem with the GSR today. The LS/GS/GSRs only have a 14mm rear sway bar compared to Type-R's 22mm one. Upgrading that sway bar (to like a 19mm like I did or 22mm) reduces body roll by like 95% and the car handles better because you have more tire contact with the pavement. Thicker sway bars also provide slight oversteer instead of severe understeer that stock Integras and most FWD cars suffer from.
The author also says that the Honda rep told him that the RSX will go into production in April. That's also good news because I can't wait to test drive this baby to see what it can do. I just hope I don't have a salesman in the car with me..
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I just bought a '95 Integra RS 4-door with 57k miles. No problems. I just had the oil changed at a Jiffy Lube, and noticed that I now get the "Maintenance Required" light flashing for about 5 seconds every time I start the car. Is this just a timed interval thing that I can ignore--or is something really wrong? Thanks for your help.