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You know, my GTS with 40k is pinging a little bit. I was wondering about the plugs in it, and thought I may try changing them soon. I also wonder if the 5w30 synthetic oil has any negative effect.
When my camaro had this problem the Cat was bad. However it caused the engine to overheat as well.
What do you ppl think about these 2 new cars compared to the Celica? I feel that the Civic Si would take the top spot. As long as it stays close to what the "concept" has to offer.
But for now i am satisfied with my Celica. I think it is close to one of the best cars i have ever driven. i am a valet at an high class restaurant and i have driven many cars. but im not comparing to BMW's Porches, and whatnot
Hmmmmm, just how extensive of a test drive does the typical valet get?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Personally, I can't compare the three. Don't know a thing about the '06 Civic (outside of some photos of a 'concept' at a car show) but it should be screwed together well and the 2.0 out of the RSX should give it decent performance. Ordinarily, I wouldn't look twice at a small car put out by GM, but I've heard good things about the Cobalt; could be worth a look.
Obviously, people in this thread (myself included) are going to be a bit biased towards the Celica (particularly in GTS form). While I would imagine the '06 Civic and particularly a Cobalt SS would have the upper hand as far as acceleration goes (more grunt), the Celica has uncanny steering response and phenomenal brakes. It is very well balance in rapid transitions and is not shy showing some slight oversteer in off throttle situations. I particularly like the high speed cloverleafs and the u-turn lanes under interstates where I can get the car to take a set and then steer it through the turn using the throttle.
The Cobalt is a little car that drives like a big car, and in my head I am trying to imagine that feel combined with the "rock hard riding on rails, jittery and crashy all over the place" feel of the Ion Redline, which I imagine will share lots of parts under the chassis with the Cobalt SS. I am not sure what the result would be, but I imagine the Cobalt would be easier to commute in every day than the Ion. But a whole lot less easy than in the Civic.
I don't get this though: this is a comparison between a new '06 Cobalt or Civic and a Celica that would have to be used by then? Or would you just be keeping the Celica you already have, and adding some power or something?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Turbo chargers are effective in the high end. The engine has to rev up, to drive the exhaust, which in turn drives the turbos.
Thanks
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
"Hi. Ok... I really want a Toyota Celica, and Ive found a few that I could be interested in. Im 19, just finishing up my first year in college, and I want something that will last me the next 3 or 4 years and even beyond. My question is, is a 95 GT convertible with 84,000 miles going to do the trick? Will it last? Some reviews Ive read say that the 95 is excellent mechanically, but Id really like some advice from people who know about this kindof car stuff. Also, my budget is around $10,000 and the asking price for this car is $7,500."
$7500 is an OK price for this car, make sure the top is new or nearly so. If it is not, expect rattiness and leaks on every rainy day - that quickly becomes a problem, and tops aren't that cheap to replace. This car has a 90K-mile timing belt, so factor that in.
As mentioned in your other topic before it was closed, unless you are set on a convertible, $7500-10,000 can buy you a whole lot more car than this, including a 100K-mile, 5-year-old version of the Celica that is still being sold until later this year. Or a Corolla (for instance) with a lot less miles than that. Or a 1-year-old Cavalier LS coupe (ah yes!). :-)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
He also recommended that I "turn" my rear drums? Any idea what this means (sorry I am mechanically impair), isnt better to replace them??? How much should I also pay to have them "turn" or replace?
I want to make sure that they don't overcharge me on the labor, since I did not buy the parts from them. Also, if any of you know how long it should take them (labor hours), since they post their labor rate, I could more or less estimate how much the job will be.
Thanks all
R
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
thanks again for the input
R
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The road is straight and wide, towns are rare, in fact even entries/exits are rare, and there is hardly a soul on the road out there. Even trucks aren't very common, surprising given that it is an interstate.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The MSRP of my car was approximately $19,600 in 2000 and I purchased the car for about $18,100.
Now Toyota releases the Scion Tc which is really the replacement for the Celica with many more standard features, a larger engine, moonroof, 4 wheel disc brakes, seventeen inch aluminum wheels etc., etc., for a MSRP of about $17,200 with automatic transmission.
If we take into account inflation or the debasement of our currency in 2000 dollars the Scion is priced at around $14,000 dollars.
This is an amazing value and Korean car manufactures should be concerned about Toyotas amazing value equation here with the Tc. Well done Toyota and I cant wait for the new FJ Cruiser but please change the name.
Are you contemplating getting a tC to replace the Celica?
I also like what I have seen of the new FJ slated to come out next spring, but don't expect these kind of low prices on that model.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
OK, having said all that, I have to ask: why did you just drive it like that for almost 25K miles? You would have had a much better case if you had gotten it straightened out right away at the time.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Answers:
It was under warranty with the cat replacement. I drove it for 20K miles because I reported the problem at 70K (at about 63K I noticed the problem but it was manageable at that time), but they made me go back on 3 separate occasions to ensure the oil was really burning (presumably to ensure I was not making it up).
The dealer did perform the cat repairs, but they are unwilling to make any correlation to the fully blown cat at 58K and the oil problems that started thereafter. They said the systems are unrelated, and replacing the CAT has nothing to do (even positionally in the engine, like replacing the CAT couldn't have caused them to put the engine back together wrong) with the blown rings.
Proper maintenance has been done and I have it all documented
Questions:
What is CEL?
How can I approach them with the correlation you mention between the blown cat and oil consumption?
How do I escalate, the owner of the dealership, whom do I contact thereafter? Even if this is out of warranty, do I not have a case that I need a new engine at between 60 and 80K?
So then what do you have? You have what you say is a well-maintained engine, WITH RECORDS (which is very much in your favor), that has only 83K and needs a ring job - very unusual for a Toyota. What you do is, you go back to the Toyota dealer and ask to speak to the service manager. You explain how well cared for the car is, how it seems very early for the engine to need new rings, and how you would like some "good will" assistance with the repairs.
He/she will say no.
You then ask for contact info for the regional representative. They will give you a phone number and hopefully an e-mail address. You contact them, and make a very convincing argument for how well the car has been maintained, and how you are deeply shocked, hurt even, that it needs such an early and expensive repair. They will schedule a date and time to come and inspect it. In the meantime, they will be in touch with the service department, which will provide them with the diagnosis on your engine.
If at any stage you get put off, Toyota also has a nationwide 800 number you can call to try and get a response. Toyota has in the past been good about going beyond the warranty when it comes to major stuff like this that shouldn't happen. But the car does have almost 85K miles, so don't expect miracles. And if the car is in any way not stock, or there is evidence of racing, forget it.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The dealer did not budge.. so I have to try the 800 number. The dealer did (off the record) recommend thicker and frequent oil additions and "engine restore" liquid that may "coat" the engine to hold oil better. He said I could get another 60K miles out of it assuming the rings are worn vs. cracked (since he didn't open it up yet to know). Since I have no noticable symptons, I can get by, and I would know when the symptons start coming, and will need to replace the engine anyways at that point. Does this sound like a viable option? Does anyone think it is possible I will get another 60K out of this engine assuming worn vs. cracked rings?
And if you are in any way thinking of keeping it, get a second opinion on the oil problem. Generally speaking, those "engine restore" additives don't do much for very long.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I just got a 2000 celica. The car has 66k miles and I want to give it a tune up.
I got 4 Denso iridium spak plugs, a K & N air filter, I'm going to Mobil1 Sythetic and I just need recomendations on good spark plug wires. Is there anything else I'm missing, any recomendation? Does anyone use anytype of additives? (eg. Lucus motor oil stabilizer}
Another question is, when going from normal oil to sythetic oil, should I do a GUNK engine wash before I change the oil and how long should you wait before the first oil change going from sythetic to sythetic.
No, do not use any additives. They are snake oil and a waste of money.
Oil change intervals seem to be personal preferences. I am pretty confident that synthetic lasts longer than petrol-oil. That is why I use it. On the contrary, these double and dual cam engines are more sophisticated, and one definitely wants to keep them clean. Depending on my mood I go from 4000 to 6000 between changes for my GTS.
Do not wash the engine. It probably will not hurt, but it basically washes the oil off of all the moving parts, and is a waste of money.
If the oil on your new car looks completely black, then change the oil, drive it around a couple miles, and change it and the filter again. You may wish to use petroleum oil for the first change to save money.
Jojofries, if you get the 2001, you'll have a lot of extra cash to put on custom wheels, new tires, satellite radio, and fill it with the best gas you can find. The newer model would be better for resale value in a handful of years. What does your pocketbook tell you to do? What does your heart say? Are they in agreement, or at odds?
Was getting ready to pick it up from the dealer when they called, a service guy rear ended it on the front driver side panel. It is at their collision center, I've seen it and luckily the headlight is untouched, the front tire is clear for rotation. My concern is any damage(possibly?) to the underside as this is the front panel.
at 17300 current cost do I have anything to bargain lower. The deal is not final now until the repairs are finished. Celicas are hard to find now that they have stopped production. All that is available in the area are 2005 GTS
any suggestions from anyone with celica experience?
Is it the deep midnight blue, or that robins' egg blue they made for a short while? The lighter blue is very hard to find, so if you walk away it will be hard to find another one the same color.
I would try to get some further discount on the car now that it has impaired value. The dealer will make a claim on their insurance, and the insurance company will report the damage and the dollar figure to repair it to the state DMV, where it will become part of the car's permanent record (CARFAX, etc).
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
dealer won't come down more saying they 'won't make money' and there is a waiting list as you cannot find any used in the area at this current time. the blue is the zephyr blue they came out with in 2003 (I think)
but you confirmed our thought that the car should now be listed with an impaired value.
thanks
You can probably find a nice, clean, low-mileage, rust-free 2001 GTS in the sun belt states for about $12K. Save your money until you get home.
The steering is tight and ultra precise. The brakes are powerful, smooth and quiet. The GTS' suspension is firm so the ride is kind of bumpy, but it would probably save your life in emergency maneuvers. Don't expect the boulevard ride in Grandma's sedan with the GTS. The throttle and engine respsonse are quick and smooth although you would have to rev it up to 6000 RPM to get decent acceleration. The car runs at about 90MPH at 4000 RPM, so at 7800 RPM red line, theoretically it should have 178MPH top speed. At high speed, the car feels light and responsive yet very stable. It holds the road very well in curves and tight turns.
With the hatch-back door in the back, the car is very practical. I disagree with Edmunds editors who ranked the Acura RSX over it. The GT-S is so much fun to drive. It's very cool. It's a far better car, more reliable and more fun than the MBZ 500SL with fake wood trims and disheveld plastic panels.
Right now it's my favorite car.
That is not the way it works. Air resistance increases as the square of speed, or something like that. In the case of Celica, IIRC, it can't reach 7800 rpm in sixth gear, which is a tall overdrive. And top speed is around 140? Again, going by memory there, it might be a little less. It is not more.
And having owned both, I definitely prefer the RSX. It has a nicer interior by several yards. The Celica has the edge for nimbleness - the Celica is a little more tossable and has more direct steering. But most of the other categories fell in favor of the RSX for me.
Celica vs Integra - it is a rivalry going back almost 20 years. I have been on both sides of the fence in that time. Now Celica is gone from the U.S., and in two years it is likely Integra (RSX) will be too. The end of an era, folks.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)