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Also looking for fog lights. I noticed that, on the front bumber, are what look like cut outs for where they should go. Anyone have them? Anyone know where I can get those too? (entire kit, switch and all)
Thanks!
Mitch
The motor makes noise when you press the button .. but the glass doesn't budge even when a person trying to pull on it encouraging it to move.
It has been suggested that perhaps something is off track in the door.
My question is .. does anyone have any experience with this? Would the motor still make sound even if it were going bad? (The window performs the same no matter whether it's the button on the driver side or button on passenger side.) And does anyone have a suggestion .. short of taking it to the dealer?
Thanks in advance,
~Jan~
I have 2 photos at:
www.tonytonini.com/cord.htm
I had a very questionable experience with a dealer. After I paid them to replace my plugs and wires at 100k miles, my "check engine" light came on. When I told them, they, of course, denied having anything to do with it. the code was P0440 = EVAP II System Malfunction. I suggested that maybe they pulled a vacuum hose off by accident.
They did more work on the van and claimed that they DID find a vacuum hose off, which they reconnected. BUT I had decent proof that all they did was clear the trouble code.
Now, could they have unplugged this wire to prevent the trouble code from appearing again after clearing it?
We have a child seat on Venture LT which came standard in the second row behind passenger. At that time you get an additional one for the drivers side but not in the center.
People have tried before to get them from GM and dealers but with out success. Only chance is a breakers yard and many are on line to see if they have them, but likely fabric will be different
Do a a google search on "car battery testing" and all your questions about your specific problem should be covered.
A jump started vehicle will run with a working alternator but dead battery as long as you have minimal electrical load.
If your hubby has a voltmeter, hook it up and reading should be 12+ volts for a good battery.
Now jump start your van. If voltage does not go above 13.6 then your alternator is shot.
Good luck.....
There is a manual switch on each door that will unlock the door from the inside.
1. I keep having to add coolant---There are no visable leaks at all.
2. My -Service Engine Soon- light won't go out (I have replaced the gas cap)---It's been on for weeks with no discerbable loss of performance.
3. My wiper blades are out of sync.
Any Suggestions?
Thanks!
Mike
"I had a wonderful evening, but this wasn't it."
Groucho Marx
I went on the internet - including this EDMUNDS site - and discovered a ground screw problem with the alternator for which a GM TSB (technical service bulletin) had been issued years ago. The screw was only 5 dollars and I got my local ProCare auto shop to replace it while having an oil change done. I think they charged me about $20 additional. That was months ago before a rough cold winter with temps here as cold as zero and our van kept outside. Never had another problem.
Bad battery or alternator - maybe all the above but don't overlook the ground screw - and I would ask the shop to try that first. Lots of GM vehicles had the problem.
Check out: TSB 01-06-03-005
Don't wait- print it out now and don't lose it. It could save you a lot of money and aggravation.
http://www.impalahq.com/TSB/TSB01-06-03-005.html
I have just discovered this problem with my 2001 venture (65k miles). I spent the last 3 weeks going back and forth with GM over this issue. There answer to me was "We handle these problems on a case-by-case basis and unfortunately because of your mileage, we will not provide any assistance".
Of course, I am furious and will never buy another GM vehicle. Unfortunately, the resale value on these vehicles is significantly lower than it should be because of this well known (at least to mechanics) issue.
All I can say is kick and scream at GM and demand resolution. I guess they are not that concerned about the 80% reduction in forecasted earnings for this year.
As much as I want to buy american, I can't do it any longer. Prior to this van, I had a 96 ford windstar. At 89k miles, the head gaskets went in that engine. Again, I received the "yeah, that happens alot" response. I don't get it. I have 2 Acura cars that have had over 175k miles on them. No problems and they bend over backward for customer service.
Again, sorry for the bad news, but these vans are garbage. In addition to this problem, I have had to replace 4 of 8 seatbelts (when have you heard of seatbelts failing???), several windshield wiper transmissions replaced during the warranty period, power door lock switches failing, rear vent window motor failing, and other stupid annoying problems that should have never occurred.
It is light gray plastic and how it plugs into the radiator is hard to tell.
I had same problem and it was replaced under warrany. Anyway that is where it is and is switched on when the level goes down.
It will probably like the air filter replacement, exceedingly frustrating.
Your issues sound quite similar to ours. We just caught them a little earlier. Intake gasket at 13K miles and new tranny at 23K miles, both covered under warranty. Did you buy the van new?
Yes, I purchased the van new in July 2001.
As soon as I get this van repaired, I will sell it and buy a new Honda mini-van.
This is a great example of why GM is on the way down. You should have better luck with the Honda. My bother has a 2004 Odyssey and I've ridden in it and it seems well put together.
Thanks,
Mark
GM deserves the poor earnings they are expecting. They have earned them with their approach to customer satisfaction.
or the dealer. Look in your yellow pages. When did you last change the fluid and have the filter cleaned? Should not be more than $50 to $75
I have the transmission fluid changed very 35K and I had installed a transmission cooler as on one long trip loaded up with college stuff from NJ to Boston and AC going the transmission started slipping and the fluid was foaming. We were staying over night and it was OK the next day for the return drive but never had a problem since the cooler went in and new fluid
The manufacturers cheap skate it by running it through the radiator which is quite ineffective compared with a front mounted transmission cooler. They are easy to fit and best performance is on the front of the radiator. No more that $50 plus installation.
I have just bought a Suzuki SL7 it had been on lease and getting the same thing done next week the cost is insignificant compared with a transmission replacement.
After a couple of months of observation I noticed that hard acceleration from a standing start while making a turn tends to cause the hard shifting, so now I accelerate gently while making turns and haven't had this problem for several months.
Hope this helps. Good luck....
BTW - My Silhouette has the towing package which includes a heavy duty transmission fluid cooler and I changed my transmission fluid and filter which did not resolve the hard shifting problem.
All of sudden she gets the oil light and the lifters are barking like wild dingos. I checked the oil and it barely touches the stick. There's no oil in the carport and no plumes of blue smoke. I top it off and things quiet down a little and then later that same day get WAY worse. Almost no power and much noise from the head. When I rev the engine I can see whisps of oil smoke coming from somewhere near the front (nearest the radiator) side of the engine but I can't pinpoint it.
Now to the question. Could the water contamination have caused the oil pump the fry? It has sufficient oil level but doesn't seem to be getting to the top of the block. Of course it's quite possible the mains are gone but I live off of hope. Please lie if you think it will make me feel better.">
Resurfacing is a cheaper alternative than replacing. I'm sure if the mechanic recommended that rotors be replaced every time, he'd hear complaints from those that would ask "why not just resurface them?"
It is my opinion that the GM-triplet minivans are "underbraked". In other words, the braking system is just adequate for the weight. As a result, warping rotors is a fairly common event on these vans. You can probably expect to have warped rotors again in another 15-20k miles, at which time you'll likely need to replace the rotors altogether. At that point, you might consider high-performance rotors that may help dissipate heat better and not warp as readily.
Hope this is helpful.
I did put electrical tape on electrical harness for tail lamp, but again is doing the same.
Is there is anyone known how to fix this, did I need new tail lamps etc ?
Thanks