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I've had it in to my mechanic who has replaced plugs, checked wires (judged okay), fuel filter, and replaced the oxygen sensor. When my mechanic pulled the plugs, although not abnormally worn, he noted that the 3 left bank plugs were "normal" in color while the 3 right bank plugs were very dark...he thought indicating a rich mixture on that side of the engine. I've seen the old parts and can confirm his observations.
Previously, in late 1992, the following items were replaced (mileage was about 112K miles): fuel pump & strainer, fuel filter, throttle position sensor, EGR valve, plugs, distributor cap, distributor rotor, distributor ignition control module, ignition coil, plug wires, idle air control valve, fuel injectors and spider, and the engine control PROM.
My mechanic now believes there may be a problem with the distributor itself and wants to replace it.
I think he's guessing...while I don't necessarily mind that, he's guessing with my checkbook which bothers me in light of the possibile, never ending, perhaps un-necessary replacement of what can be very expensive parts. The mechanic has had the vehicle in his shop for over 2 weeks and there's no end in sight at this point.
Is there anyone out there who might be able to give me an idea of what might be wrong here? What could cause the plugs on one side of the engine to look as tho the mixture might be to rich? The service engine light has not come on. My mechanic tells me that the vehicle "computer" has registered no problems.
Previous to this, for the most part, the engine has run well inspite of high mileage.
Hope someone has a few ideas besides finding a new mechanic!
Anything is appreciated.
Thanks.
Don
Thanks for pointing out the White wire from the brake pedal connector. I’ve completed the hookup, including power to the controller. Now I’ll have to attach the camper and synch. the controller braking.
-gary
I’ve previously thanked Cob for the white wire brake pedal info.
I’ve got a ’98 Safari, so it should be the same. Sounds like your doing what I just completed. I’ve got the Voyager controller installed and just completed the installation.
1 The path for the battery hookup is thru the Speedometer cable. You’ll see a black cable running down from the dash into the firewall. I used a fairly stiff feeder aluminum wire, (I think it is wire that holds up suspended ceiling). It took me 3 or 4 times (almost ready to give up) but finally fed it thru the grommet type hole that the cable is going thru. Under the hood you’ll have to see where the cable is to locate the feeder wire. I taped black and white wires to pull thru and eventually get enough to attach to the battery.
2 The Napa friend sold me 2 battery cable replacement lugs. These plugs have screws on the end to attach wire connectors. I unscrewed the cables (you’ll lose the radio presets) and worked out the plug connectors from the cables and replaced them with the new connectors. This will allow a secure connection for the brake controller power wire.
I’ll stop here to see how you do
-gary
I reread your message indicating if there was a connection point under the dash. My Napa friend never told me of any accessory connection, rather fish the wires through the Speedometer cable gromet firewall.
It would make the conection easier if there was such a connection under the dash for the controller. Maybe someone else will reply with an answer.
-gary
These vans are one the worst to R&R an engine.
:sick:
If you need detailed instructions, you can goto alldata.com and sign up for there automotive repair and diagnostic info on line, the cost for 1 vehicle is only like $20.00, and I personally have used alldata for approx 10-15 years now and it is a great site.
good luck..
Master ASE Certified Technical Consultant/GM Technician
(I believe it’s only a 7K Ohm resister because I measured it with a meter) embedded across and 1/3 way down the key. This key will occasionally make the Security light display on the dash board. Nothing else is affected. The next time the key is used, it typically acts normal. Maybe it could be dirt / moisture interfering with the contacts of the resister of the key. My ’98 Safari does not have this type of (chip) key. Just a regular looking key, and had a couple of extras made at the local store, and are functional.
Do some Safari vans have a (chip) in the key.????
Wonder what security is being compromised for the display to light up, and also cause the door locks to go crazy.
-gary
I was searching for help online and found this forum. Hope someone can help-- I have a 1985 4 cyl Astro, standard tranny. Recently it's become hard to start because I have to apply a lot of pressure on the clutch to be able to turn the key. I thought it was the neutral safety switch, but turns out those are only on automatics. Any ideas? Thanks!!
I just bought a 2001 Astro cargo van. Theres a rattle in the drivers door when the window is up, when the door closes. Something is obviously loose in there.
I removed the armrest, and the other piece by teh window crank. But couldn't figure out how to remove the main panel. It does not screw in, and I didn't want to pull on it any harder, for feart that there may be plastic clips that could break (like the ones I broke on my Nissan).
Any ideas on how that piece comes off?
Thanks!
1. Has a lose connection fitting.
2. Has a hole in the tubing and/or has a leak where the antifreeze, that is fed from the main radiator, is getting out into the interior heater section.
With summer coming you can disconnect and bypass the heater core, typically disconnect the tubing into and out of the heater and join them together with a fitting and clamps (buy you some time). If the heater core leaks, it will probably needs to be replaced. Finally, although never used the stuff, stores sell a radiator plug gunk that might do the trick of plugging the hole.
I'll stop here for others to respond.
keep motoring.
-gary
If you are thinking of removing the "factory mush" suspension, here's how we did it on our 2001 Safari AWD:
- Installed +1 leaf in the rear suspension. This removed the "top end" mush, raised the rear of our van 2.0" but its also made our van do nose dives. Especially when slamming on the brakes.
- Raised the front end van 1.0" by adjusting its front torsion bars. Since this changed its steering geometry, I had to get a front end alignment done.
- To remove "bottom end" rear suspension depth while towing, I installed Timbrens (2,000 lbs) on the rear. Due to raise rear end, I modified the Timbren base by 1.25".
For pictures, surf:
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=3bf4.jpg&.src=ph-
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=af04.jpg&.src=ph-
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=40c8.jpg&.src=ph-
http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/j_papple/detail?.dir=1815&.dnm=c474.jpg&.src=ph-
If wondering, I'm currently saving my limited dollars to install Timbrens in the front of our van. Thus, eliminating its factory mush suspension "depth" as well.
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If you have a 2WD or 4WD and don't want to raise its rear (or front), simply install the Timben Rear Suspension Improvement product. If you want to eliminate its "factory mush" suspension, install Timbrens on the front and rear. Or, Timbrens on the rear and HD shocks on the front. For more info, surf: http://www.stengelbros.com/TimbrenRideControlKits2.htm
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Hope this helps others who want to improve their Astro/Safari suspension (for towing and/or firming up factory ride) without using Air Bag products.
.
Did you ever get the bigger exhaust system or sway bar.
Helwig makes ones for the front and rear. Most Astros come with a front one but no rear.
I have both and it improves handling alot.
I also have a Gibson 3" exhaust I am not using. It was on my 2000 for a short while but am selling the van so I took it off. Bought a 2005 and my wife doesn't like the health rumble. I did! But, oh well.
I have a 95 Astro, that has been just giving me a complete headache for the last four years. It will not pass the curb emissions test, as it is producing too many hydro-carbons (however, the treadmill test is passes). You name it... it has been done and I feel like I am in a money pit. No codes are being thrown and no mechanic can seem to diagnose and fix it. The problem is the van starts no problem, idles up and down for a few seconds (roughly, like it is going to stall), the exhaust stinks (rich) and gas mileage sucks. Also, on a cold start, when I place my foot on the brake to shift it into gear, it will 60 percent of the time stall. It does however start up again, with a little bit of hesitation. The van runs great other than that; however, tends to lack some guts.
The van is presently on a conditional emissions pass as it it needed (according to the GM mechanic) a new cat converter, which has been done. It has had a complete tune-up, new O2 sensor, MAP sensor checked, Air idle control valve checked and cleaned, vaccum check, fuel injectors cleaned, it has been diagnostic checked up the whazoo, Fuel line filter, EGR has been checked, throttle body sensor replaced and then some more.
SO... anybody have any suggestions... I could really use the help.
Our previous van was a '95 Safari. Before it went in for emissions tests, we used to run 3 takes of mixed gas/ethonal through it. When it got tested, it would pass with flying colors. The numbers were very impressive. As a suggestion, consume 3 "full" tanks of ethonal mix and see if it 100% passes the E-Test after that.
Hope this helps...
.
Excellent - thanks for your help. I am going to see if I can figure this out this weekend. I appreciate your advise!
Chris
I chAnged the MAP sensor first because it normally shows similar symptoms but it did not solve it. I think you had similar experience. I will let you know tommorrow what i found and much it will be for you to fix it.
ONe more little tip if the pcv was ever changed during the coarse of a tune up MAKE SURE it was AN OEM GM part! I pulled my hair out for two weeks on a astro with the air care failing until I changed it back to factory part magically it solved the problem!
CHEERS! RON Y,
thanks folks .. great forum. Looking forward to having all the problems that you owners have had
pr
i have a new problem...my rear doors...the one door opens but the other one appears to stay locked. i took my mother out shopping yesterday and the doors worked just fine. i put her walker in the back of the van and when it came time to take it out for her i had to play around and to get it out with only the right door opening. it was no treat i am telling you.
could someone please tell me what to look for as i am planning to remove the door panel from the left and see if there is anything i can see stopping the door from opening. i need both back doors opening as i have a small child and i put her buggy in the back and on occasion i take my elderly parents out and need the back to open fully.
any help would be appreciated. i hope this is an easy fix.