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Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Sedans Pre-2008
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When you list the 2003 Honda Accord LX V-6 Sedan, the MSRP for that car with shipping is listed at $23,460, conveniently for them slightly less than the faulty MSRP they list for Taurus.
They also conveniently didn't list that the Taurus has alloy wheels standard. Yes, this particular Honda model has a few features the equivalent Taurus doesn't, like rear disc brakes and a 5 speed automatic. But, I think misrepresenting the Taurus MSRP is inexcusable.
Of course, real world purchase price would make Taurus much more attractive, but Honda shouldn't start out with an erroneous MSRP.
That's okay I'd still buy Ford
Let people deal with Honda's and Toyota's arrogance and supercilious attitudes.
I'll keep my Merc or buy another one or a Ford.
1. there seems to be some electrical problem somewhere. Sometimes when I turn the steering wheel, my wipers go on and then off on their on. This also happens sometimes when we use the turn signal.
2. Engine rattling/pinging under acceleration. This is really not a big deal for us but our other automobile (which I will not mention because I do not want to offend anyone) is just so smooth under acceleration, you can't help but notice it. I can live with it on an $11,000 car though. I wonder how the
This is my wife's car so I do not know when it actually started. I have driven it for the past 3 weeks and it happened twice. My guess is it's the multifunction switch. I'll try that before going to the dealer, I know they'll want "an arm and a leg", just for the switch.
Here is one thing I discovered last weekend: PLEASE SERVICE YOU TRANSNISSION!! if you don't want problems. I have 45K on mine (I know, 15K overdue), and decided to change my own ATF just to see if this is one of those rip-offs by the dealer/Ford. Here' what I found out:
1. Fluid very dirty.
2. So many metal pieces on the the magnet.
3. Oil pan bottom dirty.
4. Filter, I don't know, I didn't look, it had to be dirty as well.
Here's how much it cost me, I was doing it for the first time:
1. Time 2hrs
2. Haynes manual $15.00 (Autozone)
3. Oil $16.50 (8 qts Ford ATF, got scared to add synthetic after seeing all the little metal pieces)
4. Filter ($20 NAPA - Ford wanted $37).
** Ford, a drain plug to allow us to empty the pan before removing it would make the job a lot cleaner.
Next repair is a brake job. Pads and rotors turned. Anyone have this done lately? How much $$$?
I negotiated a brake job at Merlin's for $220. Front pads and rotors. Sometimes you can haggle for repairs, too
After replacing one transmission I always service automatics every 15K by doing what you did. Draining and replacing the fluid and filter. Never had a serious problem since. I've talked my Dad into getting that service done at least annually on his 95 Taurus.
Drive it for about 5000 miles and then see if you still see dark fluid, or smell a slight burnt smell. Just draining out the fluid takes about half of it away. A second time will remove 75% of the old fluid.
My Son's Mazda with a Ford Transmission was sticking when it needed to shift between 1st and 2nd. A drain and fill, and adding Lubegard took care of the problem within a few days. However, when he took it in again for its annual service this summer the fluid still smelled burnt, so it was replaced again. With the second drain and fill it looks and smells just about as good as new. Certainly better than when he bought it.
It's funny, given the cost of a replacement, how the transmission is so seriously neglected.
PS. Check out www.lubegard.com It helps reduce acids and heat that harm transmissions. Helped stop further damage on at least 4 friends vehicles. They will send the manufacturers recommendations and TSBs if you want.
I was wondering if anyone has a 96 taurus with the cd changer or was it not available for 96. Or if not does anyone know of a way to retrofit a "normal" CD player in the pod ( I know there is an aftermarket accessory to do this for escorts with the pod). Thanks
sarow,
The Sable and Taurus are virtually the same car. The Sable is decked out a little better, but mechanically they are the same. It basically comes down to styling. Which do you like better?
Glad to see yours is doing fine. Is it a Duratec or Vulcan engine?
Keep us posted as the miles add up.
When cold, especially parked a day or two on uphill driveway....very difficult starting...all codes read OK at dealer...Can anyone offer some help in diagnosis????
One other thought--fuel quality problems and things like that don't come up with codes, but yet can still mean trouble. Did you just have a cold snap after filling up in the hot weather? I'm in New England, and late last spring we had a week of 70+ degree weather and then it dropped into the 40s for a week. I filled up on the last day of the hot spell, and then my '98 Taurus was harder to start. They blend gasoline based somewhat on the outside temps. Warmer weather gas is less volatile, because it burns easier at higher temps. The cold weather made my car with that gas grumpy--longer cranking times, a bit of a stumble when it first fired, and really bad gas mileage. Next tank the weather had stabilized, and all was well. No codes came up because there wasn't anything the computer thought was wrong.
Could this be the problem?
It might be possible your battery is not getting the pump pressure up quickly, thus causing the delay in firing up. Maybe this phenomena is more pronounced if you park going uphill?
You might also want to post in the Edmunds Taurus/Sable maintenance board also.
I am just speculating on these ideas, anybody else have any experience?
Let me guess. The car is pointed with the nose up on the driveway? You also show more/less (depending on which end is up) gas than you thought you had? How much gas is in the tank?
Editorial: If you want your fuel pump (which is in the tank) to last a long time, don't go below 1/4 tank unless you have to. The fuel in the tank cools the pump. End of editorial.
I'm not totally sure, but I believe the pump is in the front of the tank. If you're "low" on fuel and the car is at such an angle that the fuel runs away from the pump, you could have a hard starting problem. I have never had a starting problem with my '96 Duratec Sable with 112K miles. Except for when the battery died.
Now I bought Sable for 18,700 (20,700 with taxes and fees) and we bought Camry XLE for ~$25,500 (28,000+). Camry has more options like power passenger seat, traction control, side airbags, more leather accents, better audio system with more features and even embedded garage opener. All these ontions probably worth about $2,000, so we get about 5,000 difference here. Does it worth it? Probably yes considering quality of interior more in Lincoln territory, higher quality engine, better transmission and brakes. That issues should be met by Ford in next Taurus and 500 or it will loose.
What I want to say that not only Ford sells cars in discount price. All new Camry is still was sold below invoice.
http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0210/09/a01-607741.htm
There are however two different engine options on both Taurus and Sable, and thus also two different transmissions that accompany these engines. I do not know if one or the other transmission is "better". Anyone else have any knowledge? Is the transmission on the Vulcan pushrod engine vs the Duratec DOHC engine any less or more reliable?
As far as stuck doors, I have no experience-it has not happened to me. Perhaps it was the rubber seals sticking slightly if the cars had sat on the lot a long time without being opened.
So is the 20- mpg abnormal? Anything I should do to check it out?
Thanks!
Have just barely 14,000 miles on it now and still am very happy with the car. My only complaint was that after I took it in for a recall concerning the grease from the asjustable brakes slipping into the brake light mechanism, about 8 months later I couldn't start the car. I called the Road Assistance number and a female (good for her!) told me how to start it and not be stranded anymore. Of course I had to take it in to have another light mechanism installed - their cost, but my loss of time.
I also called an 800 Customer Service number that the dealer provided, and complained about the incident. They seemed very concerned about the failure of the first recall fix. Hoping this is the last episode.
In our case the mileage depends on who is driving... In our mix (80% highway, 20% city) I will get 22-23 and wifey gets 25-26. Attributed to me just driving it harder than she does. Worst case is 15mpg in heavy Vegas traffic in summer. Best case is 28 during a holiday week commute when there was no traffic to speak of...
So, you are actually right about where I am...
best, MDJ
Anyone else ever experience this? Manual doesn't have any directions to disable. Any suggestions?
Second: 2002 Sable, 23,000 miles (my commuting car). Since new, the shift into 4th shudders. I know this used to be a problem until Ford developed a better transmission fluid. The 1996 shifts fine (both have the 24 valve engine). Finally taking it back to the dealer this week---waiting to see if any other problems developed so I wouldn't have to go in multiple times.
Anyone else have this problem on an '02 or '03?
About speedometer. If speedometer shows higher speed it sounds wierd. It is better to go to dealer. Failed speedometer or speed sensor will affect transmission.
There is no shudder on my cars at any speed.
These cars simply dont run well on 87 octane as specified In the owner's manual. I could care less, It's just that the owner's manual does not make any provisions for bumping up to 89 octane. It only warns you to use only 87 octane, this is asinine. While the car was still under warranty I would periodically complain during routine service. All I would get Is the usual dog and pony show answers: oh, everything Is factory sealed and theres nothing we can do. Or, using higher octane will not resolve the problem. Oh yes It does, If put 93 octane the car screams like I have a V8 under the hood.
The point here Is, no car should sound like junk. It Is my understanding that most other car companies like GM, In the owner's manual usually says that your car was engineered to run on 87 octane, but It's ok to use a higher octane for better performance. My manual says exactly the reverse, It tells you not to use a higher octane or your engine could develop performance problems. Any thoughts on this on going Ford joke Is greatly appreciated.
The only regret I have is not holding out for a 24v 200 hp engine. But that wasn't an option at the time of my purchase.
Make sure you get the VIN and get a CARFAX history report.
Thanks for any feedback.
I wouldn't recommend Vulcan to anyone, I have experience with both engines and after driving Duratec and even Japanese four bangers (esp new ones from Camry and Altima) you will regret to have Vulcan under the hood, just ignore it and move forward to the modern engine.
I don't really know what happened, because I never really got a clear answer to the problem. On her Taurus, the problem seems to have disappeared for the time being, so I'm not complaining any.
My fully equipped 00 Merc. Sable will not produce more that $12000 on trade. It's a station wagon LS Premium. Selling it to a private party will give me $1000 more, that's it. If I were to buy it from a dealer, I'd be paying $14000+. All this according to Edmunds.com TMV assessment.