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Comments
However, if you are comparing it to a more expensive Cobalt, why not step up your price on the volvo and get a newer one? The volvo will be infinitely more enjoyable and nicer than the cobalt, that's for sure. But it will cost you money to keep it up. If nothing else, you can buy the volvo and save those payments you would have been making on the cobalt to take care of the maintenance and repairs.
And, yes, a GLT makes it more valuable, definitely. Also, being in California ups the prices a bit, in my experience. They are more popular here in the northeast, and therefore there are more used ones running around, and therefore the prices are typically lower (i believe).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
As for the second questions (who told me the rack-n-pinion wasn't installed correctly), when the mechanic failed to give me a reasonable explanation as why the sound still exists when I drive, I took the car to dealer. The dealer told me that there is a specific order how you should install the rack-n-pinion (first the boot then the rack-n-pinion or vice-versa, can't remember). The dealer told me that the mechanic did not follow the correct order and that the rack-n-pinion was not installed correctly. The problem now is that the dealer also mentioned that the boot might've gotten damaged due to driving on an incorrectly installed rack-n-pinion, and the only way for the dealer to know is to take things apart and reinstall which would cost a minimum of $850. This is starting to become a nightmare!!!!
Thank you for your replies, I really appreciate the help.
Jay
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
- You'd better find a good independent repair place, the dealers charge a fortune for almost everything and often have long backups for getting service
- Motor and transmission are solid- what drives you nuts are little electrical things like bulb replacement (frequent), radio not working well, doorlocks- and my sister's Volvo S80 had similar problems
- Still the best seats around and a safe car that makes use of its size with roominess and logical design
And I will run mine into the ground or until something major happens. I have taken test drives in new cars (Mazda6, Honda Accord), then I get back in my 1998 Volvo and it is still more comfortable. And you know, if you can keep driving an older car and not have to assume the massive depreciation of any new car, you are way ahead of the game!
I had mine apart. If you don't know what it looks like, picture one of those toy motorcycles where you zip a toothed nylon chord through the wheel to get it revving. That's what in inside the antenna ... a very long toothed nylon strip. As the motor winds down, it curls the nylon chord into its case, retracting the antenna ... and vice versa to extend.
When mine did the halfway thing, I took the much cheaper option of buying just the antenna with the nylon chord attached instead of a whole new assembly, which I had to disassemble my motor casing to install the new chord. It was a real pain. As you may imagine, the nylon chord does not want to stay wound and acts like a spring. So it is quite trying to wind it and keep it flat in the case while you try to put the cover back on, while your hands are covered in the lube that covers the chord.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
One common problem is vacuum hoses going bad. On a turbo, this is absolutely crucial. If you still have your original vacuum lines, you may want to look into replacing those. There are entire replacement aftermarket kits you can purchase for not alot of $$ (~$200, if I recall correctly).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
However, they say you should be getting a check engine light. ?
IPD offers some cheap replacements.
You also may want to check the hoses highlighted in this diagram. If a turbo hose becomes to soft, it can flex when driving, causing incorrect boost pressure.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Joshua9
You need to take it to someone who can read the car's computer.
Thank you, again.
*Always had it service at dealer
*had the computer replaced in Oct- paid $1400 (would that be the ETC?)
*thermostat was replaced
*timing belt changed a few years ago
*Replaced with new Firestone tires
*never in accident but has minor dings and scrapes
will be test driving it soon. price seems high. not sure how low to negotiate to. Edmunds TMV is $7200.
after reading the first 30 pages of this thread, i've noticed many have had problems with ETC, among other things. and some have advised against '98-99 models. anything to be worried about this model?
i will use it primarily for commuting to work (20 miles daily) and local trips. doubt i'll ever drive it to snowy Tahoe, so AWD isn't a necessity, but will come in handy during bad rainy season i guess.
i will definitely have it inspected at mechanics and look at service records but not sure what to look for and what questions to ask, since i've never bought a car before, esp. used. any advice is greatly appreciated!
There is nothing inherently wrong w/ the 99 S70.
Make sure the service records are up to date
2) Drove off from the shop and within 3 miles, it started doing the same thing again.
3) Took it back into the shop, one of the spark plugs was bad, replaced all of the spark plugs again (both times using Volvo spark plugs.)
4) Drove fine for about 30 miles, started doing the same thing again.
Instead of my favorite local volvo shop, this time took it to the dealer.
5) Dealer is saying diagnostics show misfires on all 5 coils, plus oil leaking on the timing belt and another oil leak on the rear cam.
I understand that once a coil goes bad, it is not long thereafter that the others will go, very pricey to replace, however, I just had one of the coils replaced, why would there be 5 misfires should only be four at this point. Also, would the oil leak on the timing belt cause the feeling of the misfiring... (which I am not sure about either, as there is no oil drips under the vehicle, when parked or idling)
I have no idea what I should fix and what is not necessary. I have already put in some big bucks to get this far, with no change in the engine at all.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Common fault on the '99 and if it is not mixing the fuel correctly, you could be running very rich, misfiring, and fouling plugs.
Oil leaking on the timing belt won't cause any direct problems, as the timing belt has teeth and can't slip. However, it will degrade the belt and it may eventually break. So you'll want to replace the belt when the oil leak is fixed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
side swithch controls everything! Dealer told me that the passenger side also controls the alarm system. When the door locks don't work go and giggle this
switch you will hear the click and the locking system is as good as new.
Has happened so many times that I get used to it.
Not a trans problem, as that wouldn't cause misfiring.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have lavished so much attention and money to keep it running. The S-70 is spotless inside and out but I am starting to get nickled and dimed to death.
This particular problem is more important. Need to ask another question?
How many vacumm hoses are there? And does the Tranny have vacuum hoses?
.
How much vacuum line does the engine have. OH BOY!
well... i don't know. But its ALOT!
Here is something that may or may not help you:
http://volvospeed.com/Repair/vacuum_lines.php
Unfortunately, I think you bought it at a bad time. I had no problems up till 85k. It was from that point till 105k that I put in over $3k in my car. Suspension, ABS module, bearings, EGR system, etc. Difference is, I had mine from 30k, so putting $3k into it didn't bother me all too much. I sold it with 115k and that owner probably had many many thousands of trouble-free miles after everything I did to it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
After sitting for about 2 hours, the car will start up and go again.
She has taken it to the Volvo dealer twice. Their recommendation: replace the alternator and the battery. She has taken it to an alternator repair shop, and they can't find anything wrong with the battery or the alternator. Any ideas on what's wrong and how to fix it?
I still drive the car, but cautiously. I do not pull out in front of anyone.
It is hard to believe that Volvo can't fix their own cars. I paid over 35k for this car brand new.
This is in no way exclusive to Volvos. There is not a mechanic alive who can figure out an intermittent problem that leaves no traces and can't be replicated at will.
You can read similar stories about every make.
And if you guys haven't replaced the battery, I strongly recommend it, regardless of what a tech says. When my battery went bad in my S70, I could not tell with a meter. It tested fine. But, sure enough, I replaced it because I couldn't think of anything else to do, and it fixed my issues.
I'm not saying this is definitely your problem. But for $100, it is worth finding out.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
i did a full tune up cause previus owner never did, changed (cap,rotor,plugs,wire set)
still no better.
any help on this woulb be very much appreciated thx
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
98 Volvo s70, 160000 miles, a couple problems.
1. speedometer quit working.
2. oil is at right level, but over the llast three days it sounds like an airplane. now this is only while the car is in motion. so to me that would eliminate exhaust issues. its not the engine, so is my tranny going out? keep in mind it only makes this noise while the car is in motion. Wheel bearing were just replaced so could it be they were defective? There is no slipping in the tranny at all. so plz help me out guys and gals
Which wheel bearings were replaced? How about tire balancing? Do you feel any vibration at all?
I wouldn't rule out exhaust unless you rev the engine sitting still and get no noises.
Could be as simple as a loose piece of trim. Have you checked the tightness of everything underneath? The dust shield under the engine is not the sturdiest thing ever designed.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
this is an automatic, right?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
question: did it USED to look red?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S