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You are correct--that is a crock. My '99 GCS was sitting out all night in -21 F weather this weekend and started and ran just fine, just as it has for the past five Minnesota winters.
Try a Volvo? They're born in the cold, they should work fine there.....
Lately, the driver's seat warmer refuses to heat. There’s a fuse labeled “Seats” in the “Fuse and Relay Center” box under the hood, but all motors in the seats work. I don’t recognize any other fuse or relay that might apply. The rocker switch indicator lights light up when either “Low” or “High” is pushed.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Is there an easy fix?
Here's the problem : While parked in its normal spot (my driveway, here in Seattle Wa.) I used the key button remote to open the rear hatch. I loaded some things into the back while the engine warmed up for one minute. While sitting in the driver's seat, I pressed the console button to then close the liftgate. It made the usual sound but then stopped... the hatch never even started to close. I waited a minute and tried again... same thing. I got out and tried to close it manually (which you can usually do) but it would not budge. I then tried repositioning the van to a couple different parking angles... still no luck.
My van was now locked in an open configuration with no way to secure it. There is no emergency release to close the hatch if the motor fails and locks the liftgate in the open position.
After being late for work and causing me much aggravation... I drove the van to the dealer that I bought it from. Yes, with the hatch stuck up wide open. I opened the windows and turned on the vent. system.
All the service techs said that they'd never seen this before. They ordered a new motor from Detroit, and it was of course fixed under warranty... a one time fluke they all decided.
Then two weeks later it happened again! This time though, after several button pushing attempts, it finally closed. Needless to say, I am very gun-shy about this feature... You are completely open to the environment when this liftgate is locked up and of course you have no way of locking up your vehicle. So now, I only use the auto feature when its not raining and I can drive right over to the dealer if it should get stuck. This is not a good situation... so I'm wondering if anyone out there has any info or advice regarding this perplexing problem.
By the way, BOTH times this has happened, the situations have been exactly the same : parked in the exact same spot on my driveway, in a slight downward slope. Not steep at all, just not totally flat. Enough that a beachball would roll downhill there. ALSO, both times it was just below freezing out. Somewhere between 29 and 30 degrees F. Enough that both mornings I scrapped some good frost off the windows. And that's about all I can tell you.
I read the owner's manual again and it didn't give any warnings about using the auto rear hatch on a slight downhill or in 29 degree weather. In fact in the last couple months I have used that feature on exactly the same driveway spot many times... and I have used the auto hatch up skiing many times in much colder weather and with more snow and ice ... so I am very concerned. Any helpful thoughts??? Greg
It's most likely a defective plug connection. Look for one of the wires inserted in a plug that is not "locked in" and backs out when the two halves of the plug are pushed together. This can be most irritating as the problem will come and go. The dealer has a wiring diagram showing where the plugs are located.
I am new to this board and not sure if it is the right place to post the following. If not, please
pardon me for disturbing.
I would like to buy my first van. I got a quote from a dealer. Is it a good deal for me?
2004 Dodge/Caravan SE. $17,500
Options: sunscreen glass and rear defroster.
Thanks .
The price you were quoted is only $103 more than Edmund's TMV so it appears you are getting a reasonably good deal.
Have you test driven the Caravan SE with 4 cyl engine? Is your budget very limited? A Caravan SXT with the 3.3L V6 is quieter with much better performance and almost the same gas mileage. I feel the 4 cyl engine is too small for satisfactory performance in a minivan that weighs about 3800 lbs. If you have been driving underpowered vehicles like a Volkswagen bus, you would be satisfied with a 4 cyl Caravan that has much more comfort with better performance and better fuel economy than the VW bus.
hansienna: I haven't tested drive it yet. Also my budget is really tight. Since I haven't checked the quotes for SXT yet, as you suggested, I will try to get some.
backy: I don't think I will have a trade-in. I only have a 88 Honda which broke down recently and motor needs work. From what you suggested, will I be targeting for something around $16,500?
I think it is not like Toyota/Sienna, for Carvan, supply is way greater than demand, there should be some room for the price. Is is correct?
BTW, I'm in southeastern Atlantic.
Thanks again
Regards,
Dusty
DaimlerChrysler should replace the transmission at NO COST to you if it is not working properly since you had it towed when you first noticed a problem. That is the advantage of buying a vehicle NEW: Factory Warranty.
When and if major problem occur, you will have established a written record of problems that occurred early in the life of the vehicle.
You will be more likely to get problems fixed at DaimlerChrysler's expense under the written factory warranty you got when you purchased your vehicle new if you keep the documentation.
They write it up just as I explain it and give me a copy. I have all they have given me so far. One of them even says the leak was caused by extreme cold weather.I have a file open with Chrysler and have told them if it is too cold for the van they should not be selling it in Canada !
Every item in the powertrain should be covered under a powertrain warranty although electrical items such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train.
If DaimlerChrysler does not cover everything in the powertrain, it may be better to buy a Toyota or Honda for the next vehicle.
Every item in the powertrain should be covered under a powertrain warranty although electrical items such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train."
I don't understand your argument. No manufacturer is going to cover electrical components in the powertrain warranty. Power windows are not part of the powertrain.
What is or isn't covered in the basic power train warranty is up to gino45 to determine from the warranty literature that came with the van.
I myself would never spend $2000 for two years of insurance for a bumper to bumper extension. You can spend quite a bit of money on repairs and not get up to $2000, so I would save the $2k and use it for any repairs that show up. You will likely still have most of that $2k left at the end of the additional two years.
#1. Everything in the powertrain should be covered by the 7 year 70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty....even if there are electrical components within the transmission.
#2. Electrical items not part of the powertrain, such as power windows, power door locks, etc. are obviously not part of the power train and would NOT be covered by the 7/70,000 Powertrain Warranty.
Any tips would be appreciated
Any tips would be appreciated
Yeah, here is the tip that always works for me... get a pro to do it. Seriously, I wish I was mechanically inclined enough to do things like that myself. My dad always did all his own car repairs. Maybe helping him all those years is what causes me to not even want to try? Good luck getting it fixed!