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He is unloading them in a hurry! I wonder why he is taking such a loss... unless he is going out of business or switching to another kind.
The best price I could find for a GLS automatic + Package2 ($14,432) was $12,700 + tax and that includes the 500 rebate! And when I started finding about some of the problems and bad service, that acted as a cold shower!
Intrepidspirit, would you please, list the dealer's name and phone number...I may give him a call to see if we can work out something for delivery? Thanks.
With that said, the brake issue concerns me even more than the shimmy problem...
If these issues were happening to me, I'd be tempted to take the car in to my regular mechanic for a diagnosis. Have any of you with these problems done this (without having the mechanic fix anything)?
Finally, is there any way to research different dealer service departments as to which are the best and which are the worse; as far as customer feedback?
Steve
They gave me a loaner car for four days and completely repainted both panels. Above and beyond IMHO, since the imperfections were very small. I didn't ask them to do this, but was quite pleased as I had agonized on the effect of paintless dent removal on my clear coat in the future.
St. Charles Hyundai-- Metro St. Louis.
Csandste, good point. I also owe a word of thanks to the Cormier dealership in Long Beach CA for always being so easy to work with, listening to the issues, and for the great efforts to resolve those issues (that the problems are not resolved is a separate issue).
Steveb70, I brought my car in to the Cormier dealership late in the day (300 miles on the car). The shimmy was really bad. The dealership went out of their way to take me in as a late appointment and attempted to balance the tires twice--unsuccessfully. The service manager said he *did not know* why they could not fix the problems, but wanted to investigate some possibilities, such as water inside the tires, etc. I was asked to leave the car with them the following day. They eliminated most of the shimmy, but some shimmy still remains. My shimmy is intermittent--sometimes it's there, and other times it's completely gone, same speeds, same road. The dealership never told me what caused the severe shimmy. As to my intermittent shimmy, I don't see how that can be resolved with tires, rims, or balancing--it's got to be something else.
As a practice, I don't think service departments admit to chronic problems they see from a multitude of consumers--even if directly asked. (Ask your service department if they've seen the shimmy problem with other Elantras and they will most likely say no.) They could end up being called as a witness in arbitration (to testify to defects present in the overall population of cars) not to mention the backlash they would receive from the manufacturer ("... but the service manager said EVERYONE has this problem...").
Tb88, a few years back, I either read or heard on TV, that manufacturers of cars try hard to get that great "door-closing sound." Manufacturers attempt to control the way the doors sound (marketing, to sell more cars) at the expense of better latching systems--point being the best designed doors will sound pretty crappy... and that's at odds with what consumers want. Now, I think everyone would agree that the Elantra, including my own, has an outstanding, solid sound to the doors when they close (I even read comments about the door sound in an editor's review). My doors sound fantastic but are very hard to close without slamming or rolling down the windows. That's why I strongly suspect the design of the latch is the culpret (to get that great sound) not the air-tightness of the vehicle (you can see my rather long rant about this problem at post # 1170).
Regarding the intermittent shimmy, it sounds like an alignment problem of some sort. I agree, I don't think it's the tires at this point. If I were you, and if you have a mechanic you trust, I'd take it in to him only for a diagnosis. I wouldn't have him replace anything though as to not void the warranty.
I'd then take his diagnosis and tell the service department, "I'd like you to check the XYZ bar to see if that is what is causing the intermittent shimmy." I wouldn't tell them you had your mechanic give a diagnosis.
Steve
Famous Ed's Hyundai (formerly Bendick Hyundai)
3342 Santa Anita Ave.
El Monte, CA
Tel: 626-575-8200
Portions of the ad read:
"New 2001 Elantra GLS
Auto, Air, Power Windows/Locks, Tilt, AM/FM Cass., Rear Defogger"
MSRP $14,032
Ed's Discount -3,544
Sale Price 10,488
Fact. Rebate -500
Net Price $9,988
"All in stock w/MRSP $14,032"
"Prices exp C.O.B. 8/5/01"
His main competition is Team Hyundai in Pasadena. The number is 1-888-396-4480 (don't know if that number is good out of state). They had a loss leader this weekend (1 only) @ $10,888 (MRSP $13,972).
I don't know why he Ed is selling this low. Most car dealers in this area are "unloading" which is what you would expect at the end of a model year.
I know from personal experience that the ads are honest (at least they were for mine @ $10,988). There was no attempt to switch me to higher models, etc. They simply sold me the car I wanted at the price they advertised!
I spoke to Ed when I bought and he told me he bought the business from his former associate (Bendick) and planned to become the highest volume dealer in Southern California.
But you seem so negative on the Elantra, I don't know why you would buy one at any price! If you are that skeptical, you probably will never be happy with the car...I think everyone should feel good about what they buy!
Sorry about that, but after reading some of the problems of unhappy owners, I felt that something is terribly wrong with the service after sale and the warranty in general... but then again, I looked at other boards and found similar complaints about different problems!
I guess in order to get total satisfaction, one must deal with BMW/mercedes and the like!
I wish I could live somewhere where cars are not needed!
http://www.autopacific.com/
I got a great deal on the Elantra and when I get a great deal I am much more tolerant of imperfections. When I pay a premium price for a car (or anything else) I expect perfection and I am always disappointed. It depends upon your point of view.
Most of today's cars are well-engineered and the gap between manufacturers' quality is narrowing. Perceived reliability and reputation carry a premium price tag. In my opinion, from all the reviews I have read, Hyundai's reliability has improved dramatically, but the marketplace hasn't caught up with it yet; therefore the lower pricing. This provides a unique opportunity to take advantage of lower prices.
Take a look at Edmund's long term base Elantra GLS reviews. They have only had it 3 months but each month's review confirms they love it. They don't even miss the Bimmer it replaced!
I'm not an expert on cars, so I rely heavily on reviews from people who do this for a living. All reviews I have seen have been unanimous...an excellent compact car with many standard features and a great value compared to the competition. Being value-conscious, this is what attracted me to the car...and after driving it I was sold!
P.S. did you check the fuses?
1) Will she save money by buying a 2001 as opposed to a 2002?
2) What is a good price for an auto 2001?
3) What is the availability of an Elantra in the pewter color? Will this be easy to find?
4) And most important, would you recommend this car? She now has a 2000 Civic EX and the household needs a second car to be driven to work and school.
Thanks in advance for all replies (sblumm@worldnet.att.net)
It depends where you live and on the competition!
I had quotes from 3 different dealers in MI, and none would go below $12,700 including Rebate(500)+ Taxes (MSRP: 14,332)+ Taxes for a 2001 Elantra with automatic and Package2 ($400).
I would have bought one in spite of some reservations about the service after sale; if I had found a price around $10,000.
.
Did you call "Famous Ed's?" Just curious...
I know...I made a 12,222 offer and it was rejected. Made another offer for 12,500 : that one too, was rejected.
I am not in a hurry, I can wait for the new 2002 and see what they have different.
I was told by a salesman that they will raise the price by 6% and will not offer a rebate for 3 months... I don't know how true that is... if it is; I will get the 2001 (it will probably get a little cheaper... all dealers are well stocked ...I don't think there will be any shortage soon... One dealer even has so many santa fe in stock which makes me think, that those are not much in demand around here either).
No, I didn't call "Famous Ed's" yet! because the ad you mentioned, expired before your post. I will try this week though, and see...
.
I'm sure Ed will have another ad on Saturday. This is a link to his website.
http://www.famousedshyundai.com/
Can someone tell me what damage it could do to the car, if any? Is there anything I can do during the rest of the break in period to "correct" for it? Thanks a lot.
Not doing it may result in:
- Poor gas mileage
- Some parts wearing out prematurely
- Nothing at all.
But 1 and 2 are very likely!
Just vary your driving speed every few (2-3) miles (30/50/40/55/35...) with some stop and go... for the next 1,000 miles... and not exceed the maximun speed recommended by Hyundai during the break-in period.
.
thanks, gator
I am looking at getting an Automatic model with the ABS/Traction Control package.
tb88: Any success with your offers in MI yet ?
Things change so quickly in the automotive world!
I feel that Hyundai's recommendation of not exceeding 55 during the break in period is a bit unrealistic since you could be run over.
I took a 300 mile round trip with about 200 miles on the odo and tried to keep everything under 70 at all times. I varied the speed using the cruise every mile or two and generally kept things between 55 and 65. Even at 65, that tach is not turning over very fast. Keeping everything at fairly low revs and varying the pitch of the engine on a regular basis is the important thing. If you were responding to traffic and moving the speed with some regularity between 50 and 60 you should have nothing to worry about. If you on a deserted stretch of highway and locked the speed at 55 (even though that's Hyundai's maximum) and left it there for an hour at a time, that might not be too good. If you got the engine to redline in lower gears even if you never exceeded 55, that would also be bad.
Hyundai also warns about lugging the engine during break-in. The engine probably shouldn't be lugged at any time.
He assured me these ratings were standard to the industry and didn't vary from company to company, although they might be expressed as cost variences. This will run me a couple hundred a year over the same coverage on my Cavalier.
Does anyone know why? The Elantra scores well on the government tests, much higher than the Cavalier. The IIHS tests rate good structural integrity although the rating is poor because of bag sensors. I think these ratings predate the testing. Consumer Reports said there was little or no bumper damage on their bashing test.
The agent said some cars with high theft have these ratings but that doesn't seem right for the Elantra.
I can think of three possibilities.
That the Elantra is lumped in with previous cars carrying the same name. I know the previous generation car had to have its bumpers reinforced during the middle of its run because of high claims.
That Hyundai is offsetting low purchase price with high parts prices and this is reflected in the insurance costs.
That the safety of the car really is bad and the ratings reflect this reality. (Lets hear from all the Korea-phobes out there telling us you get what you pay for.)
Anyone else come up with other possibilities?
He also told me they sold a Sonata to a Florida man who flew to California to buy it..
He said the insurance costs for the Elantra would be about $4 more per month than my 1994 Chevy Corsica. That's not too bad. I got a bit scared when I read csandste's post.
Regarding Famous Ed's prices, I was hoping that price was for an automatic because I was going to use it to negotiate a price here in Colorado for a 5 speed manual. I'm hoping to find a 5 spd manual with package 2 for about $10,200 or $10,500. I may be dreaming, but that's what I'm shooting for. A couple of Denver dealers are advertising prices in that range with really no catches, except for the fact there are probably only one or two cars on the lot for those prices.
Any new Elantra owners in Colorado?
Steve
Brake pedal: When I hit the brake pedal, there is squeaking sound. Also, I have to step on the pedal hard before I can stop the car completely even if the car is running only about 35 miles. I brought the car to 2 different dealerships and the technicians told me the brake works fine. I just have the brakes checked 3 weeks ago and the squeaking sound remains. It bothers me but I guess I just have to live with the noise!
Idle speed: It takes about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes for the idle speed to drop from 1500 rpm to 1000 rpm. It will take another minute or so for it to drop to 800 rpm. However, when the rpm drops to 800, the engine shakes and the rpm indicator will drop suddenly and then back to about 800 rpm. I believe it is abnormal but I don't know what's wrong with the engine. Also, I usually drive my car when idle speed is at 1000 rpm. Is it OK?
Gas mileage: It is very disappointing! My Elantra gets only about 15 miles per gallon during city driving and about 22-24 miles on combine driving. On freeway it does get about 31 miles per gallon. I try both regular unlead and unlead premium gas and the difference is minimal.
The paint: I think the paint is quite thin, there are several chips and dings on my car already; it makes me mad every time I wash my car.
I also want some advices on the following:
1. What type and which brand of wax is good? When I go the car, the sales person told me to get butter wax for the car but I can't find any type of butter wax. Any suggestions?
2. Where can I find a good Elantra dealership in L.A. area? I live in South Pasadena.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Alex
The Elantra is probably more expensive to insure because older models tended to have a younger ownership base and therefore became involved in more than their fair share of property damage and casualty claims. And because the Elantra is a Korean car, replacement parts (paid for by your insurer when you or someone else breaks 'em) tend to be more expensive.
I won't even get into those IIHS/NHSTA "safety" tests. But suffice to say they have little do with how a car ultimately gets rated. A shiny new nickel to the next poster who can tell us why a safe car like the Honda Civic generally costs a bundle to insure....
Happy Motoring!
None I have tried will remove small surface scratches in dark colored paint. My wife's van is dark blue and nothing will remove the scratches and swirl marks, not even polishing compound.
I suppose the high theft rate is a backhanded compliment to Honda. The Civic is such a good car that many stay on the roads for years and years, leading to theft of even older (pre-1993) model Civics for spare parts.
It is easy to apply and lasts about 6 months. Many forum posters swear by the product -- especially in the 300M forum.
Zaino has two types of polish -- for regular paint and clearcoat. I couldn't find anything that said the Elantra had clearcoat paint, so I used the regular. Depending on car color, it gives a near mirror finish!
This is their website:
http://www.zainobros.com/
I keep hearing stuff about Zaino. Some good things and bad things. Any input?
I am looking to buy an elantra in NY NJ area. Can any one share the prices paid on pkg2 or pkg4. Also any good high volumes dealer in this area who can give good prices.
Thanks in advance for all the feedback.