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I checked on resale values the other day, and it looks like the current private party value is just under $7000. Interestingly, that's what it's been for the last year or so, holding steady as the price of used cars has shot up of late. So that means the depreciation on the car has been a little more than $1000 a year. Not bad at all. I've been looking around for another GT or even a GLS, since I'll need another car when my son goes off to school or even sooner depending on what kind of job he gets this summer. It's really hard to find good samples anywhere near me, in the Twin Cities, that are reasonably priced. I think the word has gotten out that the 2001-6 Elantra is a good choice for a used car. The GTs with ABS, like mine, are especially rare; GLSes with ABS are almost impossible to find.
What you might do is ask the service manager at your Hyundai dealership about it. I did that when I bought my car, i.e. "Can I go by miles vs. time on maintenance?", and he said "Sure, no problem." Then document that discussion somehow, e.g. email to the service manager thanking him/her for his help and summarizing the conversation.
One thing I have always like is the sound of that 2.0L from the drivers seat. Winding it up through the gears sounds more like a modified little racer engine that an economy engine. At 3K miles, I am averaging 31MPG in combined highway/city. And a 50/50 combination of that.
Compared to the '05 GT, the handling is crisper (more wheel, less tire) and since they now come with Kumho instead of Michelins, more road noise. The radio is better, the a/c is still outstanding.
One problem it does have to go in for right away, though, is that there is no throttle between idle and 2000rpm. As in you are either at idle or at 2000plus. With a stick in traffic this can be a real issue. I'm not too concerned though as the dealer here is excellent and has some very top-notch techs.
Somewhat new here ... and really like the Hyundai Elantras ... but have only been approved from my credit union for $6,200.00. I need automatic transmission and air conditioning .... is that a reality?
Do you think I can find a car with fairly low mileage and in good mechanical shape, for that price, or should I look at something else?
Thanks so much
Diana
Another car you might look for is the 2004.5+ Spectra, which was a new design for 2004.5 (yes, weird I know) and drives much like the Elantra, and in fact has the same engine as the Elantra. I found a couple low-mileage Spectras (a 2005 and a 2006) within 500 miles of me when I did a search just now; one was a 2006 EX with only 35k miles.
thanks
If you don't get the recall letter from Hyundai it's possible your car isn't affected. That said, you can also call your dealer's service department, give them the VIN of your car, and they'll look it up (no charge) to see if there are any outstanding recalls.
Battery
Rear Brakes
Exhaust
Granted the kids are all grown but the upholstery is as good as the day it left the showroom. Everyone seemed to hate the "airplane pattern" but I like it. At least on these little econoboxes the door panel had the fabric on it unlike the newer model. I'm hoping to keep the car for at lest another 2 years.
Re rust--no signs of rust on my '04 despite living in the Rust Belt, lots of road salt used here. The secret I think is frequent washing in the winter, plus touching up any nicks as soon as possible, and waxing of course. I am lucky that a local gas station has an all-cloth automatic wash that is only $5 for a basic wash with fillup. That is a godsend in the winter.
Friday will mark 9 years with this sweet car, at nearly 105,000 miles (2001 GLS, 5 speed). Rust is making its way around the inner edges of the wheel wells and bubbling up a bit on the surface, and also at the rearmost edge of the rocker panel on the driver's side. Will have to decide on some bodywork soon, but otherwise this car has been soooooo very good. I'm quite pleased, and hope to have the same good service from the 2012 model I hope to buy.
Durndest thing I had ever heard of!
BTW, I assume the wiring under the seat was checked to make sure the harness hadn't been damaged or unplugged?
Any ideas about how they know which airbag, or is it part of the OBD system?
I can always put my passengers in the back seat. Or the trunk. ;-)
The airbag is a different system and cannot be read by a conventional OBDII scanner. A special scan tool is used for the airbag system, or at least it was on my buddies car.
Mike
Some things you just have to go to the manufacturer to be sure you are getting the right part.
Good luck.
I am in need of a third car (4 drivers - two teens - only two current cars. I have an opportunity to purchase an 02 Elantra Gt with just over 100 k. Price was under 3500. No known issues - buying from a friend of friend, who is basically getting rid of an excess car.
The mileage doesn't bother me - likely only put 10-15K per year if that.
Anyway - I have never owned a Hyundai. Is this a worthwhile car at this mileage. I don't mind repairs as I keep my cars until they fall apart. Just need reliable without excess repairs. Anything I should ask the person
thanks
Thanks
As mentioned above, find out about the timing belt, and if an automatic tranny, how often it has been serviced. The 4spd auto in these does not use a filter, and the fluid should be changed every 30K.
I have a 2004 GT with nearly 60k miles and it's needed only minor things like light bulbs, and new struts for the hatch (that was a warranty item). Also needed to replace the rear pads and rotors at 45k. Other than that, it's been a great car, still drives and looks (except for a few dings) like new. But the expensive 60k service is looming... you would face that in 20k miles. Cost at a dealer can be around $1000, including timing belt. Plus the car will need new tires before next winter. But I'm going to keep it, for my son to finish college in 3 years--and maybe more. Gotta use up that powertrain warranty!
Good luck.
The car still drives and rides like new. No rattles or squeaks. Suspension seems a little firmer than when new, but it could be because of the worn tires. Interior has held up well, and the leather is in great shape except for a buff mark on the driver's left bolster. That appeared a few years ago, I think because the car was used in several auto shows before I bought it. Paint is still glossy (wax it 2-3 times a year), but has several little dings. Alloys have a few digs from curbs. Driver's side headlamp housing fogs up sometimes after a big rain or car wash, but that goes away pretty fast.
Fuel economy is about the same as new. I still get mid-30s on the highway and mid-to-upper 20s in town, but I don't get to drive it much anymore as my son has the car at college. The hatch comes in real handy for carting his stuff to and from school. There's a lot of room in back, especially with the fold-up rear seat bottoms that provides a flat load floor. Few cars have that feature today.
It's been a great car and I hope it holds up as well for the next three years to get my son through college. Then it will be his graduation present. I checked KBB today and found the car is still worth around $6500-7000 in a private party sale--about where it's been for the past 2-3 years. Since the car cost only $13k ($17.4k list), it's only lost half its value in 7 years. Not bad at all.
2004 Elantra GLS with just under 74k; 2nd owner. Oil changes every 3k. Tires rotated/re-balanced every 6 months & replaced as needed, as well as alignments when needed... I have always used Chevron gas since I bought it at 33k along with fuel injection cleaners (Gumout) every so often. Drive belts, brake pads replaced & rotors turned at 50k (gouge in left-front rotor, told may have been a rock). New battery & transmission fluid replaced at 63k. Spark plugs & wires replaced 3 weeks ago (I used NGK platinums & an NGK wire set). Timing belt/water pump replaced & fuel system cleaned 2 weeks ago. Obviously I was late on TB/WP, although for some reason I managed to skip that page in my owner's manual until I discovered it at 70k.
More work than that has been done overall, but just touching base with what -might- help narrowing down what's going on...
Noticed symptoms before having the timing belt/water pump replaced... but at the time I needed my tires balanced/rotated; was overdue on an oil change (by ~500 miles); the power steering belt had a lot of slack in it and was causing a very loud squeal when cold, when turning as well as a squeal when accelerating from a stop; and the water pump bearing was making a lovely noise. Until that was all done in the last 2 weeks, I wasn't sure what noises/etc. were caused by what. I usually don't neglect my car that poorly, but my mom was in ICU for a few months; driving of the car nearly tripled suddenly and it all seemed to start during that time... but right then, my mind was not focused on my car. After the recent work, everything else is running great, only thing left is this...
When above 50mph, I was hearing what I thought was a rock in my tire that just never went away. Inspected myself and saw nothing, but took it in to have the tires inspected at Les Schwab anyway in case I missed something lodged in the tread or something, but told yet again that all of that checks out. I was also told by the shop that did the TB/WP that they inspected everything, including the wheels/brakes/suspension-related stuff & it is all in good shape. The sound was hard to narrow down with wind noise above 50-60mph, but now I believe it could instead be popping...after I read around trying to find similar questions, and including a few other symptoms...
The idle is quite rough (compared to the barely noticable idle that made me check whether it was even running the first few weeks after I bought it, anyway), and there is hesitation/sluggishness on acceleration, especially the faster I am driving. The hesitation & rough idle was much worse before the TB/WP replacement. I had discussed all symptoms at the time, including the fuel filter recommended replacement at 60k (apparently also skipped that page until now). I was worried the fuel pump might be going bad from a clogged or partly clogged filter, so they recommended a fuel pressure test first to try to narrow down the problem. They told me after that, "the fuel pressure is 'perfect' to OEM specs for my car, which tells them my fuel filter is fine".
Sometimes at idle after highway driving, I will hear a sort of "purr" sound, quite low and throaty, reminds me of a muffler issue kind of noise I've heard on other people's cars. Not always, though. When pulling it into the driveway for the night, the "purr" will stop in Park, but it will then switch to or cause a high-pitched and relatively quiet hiss/whine noise (Park only). Doesn't last very long, if I'm not quick about getting out and lifting the hood it goes away, but I think it might be coming from somewhere around one of the radiator hoses?? The shop's overall inspection did note that the "exhaust system shows usual wear for a car around 75k". But didn't note any actual problems, like a big gaping hole in my muffler, or something. Just "usual wear" (I'm going to talk with them tomorrow to find out what their definition of "usual wear" is, in case my problem might be related to the exhaust somehow).
Prior to TB/WP replacement, when stopped, the idle was "chugging", the car kept vibrating/shaking or feeling like it would die, but it never did. It just felt almost like it was coughing... giving it gas seemed to help, but accelerating was difficult, about half the power as it normally had. Now it is probably 2/3 power of what I consider normal when accelerating. Not as bad/rough, but it's not great.
Also: no CEL, no overheating, no stalling/dying, no hard starts, no stored codes, no smoke from exhaust, no trouble switching gears...
Anyway - could it still be a fuel filter issue, if the fuel pressure is "perfect"? I do plan to replace the filter regardless of what they told me after the fuel pressure test, just because it is overdue according to the owner's manual. But, if there might be more that needs attention, I would like to get it all done in one trip.
I love my car. Even with Hyundai skeptics/anti-Hyundai advocates that I know (my brother is a hardcore Toyota fan), my car still keeps going! Now I want to give her the attention she deserves so she'll keep on going. Sorry this is so long, just wanted to include anything I thought might help... any input is much appreciated. Thank you.
Might try some Techron fuel system cleaner. Costs a bit more, but I have had good luck with it, and /or Seafoam. I have seen coils go weak on these, but always trips CEL. Be sure the NGK plugs are correct for the engine. Too "cold"of a plug can cause issues with drivability without setting the CEL.
Good luck!
2010 Tucson Ltd
2010 Touring SE
2006 Elantra Hatchback GLS
1999 Chevrolet Blazer (hey, when you can buy your own, you can get what you want, son.)
Still some hesitation, but now that the fuel filter's changed I can pinpoint it to when accelerating/switching into gear... I've kept up on the transmission fluid changes, but at the time I didn't know to make sure the repair shop used the Hyundai-specific fluid, so they used stuff that's compatible or comparable to OEM specs or something. I didn't know the apparent importance of Hyundai-specific/OEM fluids, I'm going to take it in to the local transmission shop & have them look at it... and at least replace the fluid.
Still no CEL, it's really fun trying to figure out my car and it's noises when it wont throw a CEL and I don't know a lot about cars, lol. Learning, though!
Thanks for your reply, jlflemmons
Thanks
Gene
Thanks; Gregg