Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

jacksonian · January 2002

Hi everyone
I Got a entermitant rattle in the dash of our 01 lx. It doesn't do it that often but when it does it is really annoying. My question is should I take it in to have the shop work on it? or will they just loosen up more stuff tearing apart the dash? How much do they have to tear apart to get inside the dash. anyone have experience with there dash rattling.
Any help or suggestions welcome

tboner1965 · January 2002

Not rebuildable. With the cast in iron sleeves in the aluminum block, most damage is not repairable, so the engine will most likely be scrapped.

FWIW,

TB

maltb · January 2002

Actually Mazda has rebuilds out there and my guess is that is what the dealer puts in. OEM rebuilds are not your cheapy back shop jobs. Besides a tight rebuild is better than a sludge-ridden engine on the verge.

javadoc · January 2002

I agree with Maltb. That, and a seasoned block is better than a green one almost always. What happens is the seasoned block is stronger having gone through so many heat/cool cycles. Of course, this assumes a talented grease monkey assembling the bits though, and factory monkeys are the best monkeys. Most internals are brand new on a rebuild anyway.

However, I don't know how they deal with the cast-in iron cyl-liners on the Duratec blocks. Well, it can't be rocket science.

Not totally unrelated, on race engines, I've always used blocks w/ over 100k miles on them because those are going to be the strongest. Bottom line is, I'd trust a rebuild from the "factory," esp. if it gives you a good warranty.

my 2-cents...

/java

tboner1965 · January 2002

they are typically better than the factory assembly line engines.

Why?

Because things are actually measured. Testing costs a lot of money, so I imagine most engine factories simply "sample" engines. They get tested at the end of the line or after they go into the vehicle.

A rebuild should be torn down, all tolerances measured and parts chosen to fit with any machining of the block are installed.

This should result in a higher quality engine.

I don't know how many Duratecs are rebuildable, but one of the guys on the Contour board who was part of the team engineering the powertrain says they usually are not rebuildable.

I do know you can put new heads on 'em. I'm still toying with migrating my 2.5L SVT heads to a 3L block.

TB
With more money than time for a project...

javadoc · January 2002

If I had the money, I'd *make* the time. That would be a great convert.

/j

billmckinley · January 2002

corrected.

R [eating humble pie] J

pricetag · January 2002

Same symptoms as tango_28...smelled antifreeze and had to add coolant about every 2 weeks. The tech said the waterpump was leaking at gasket. I'll see if I can get pictures.

dianaa1 · January 2002

We just took our van in for the 48k service, complaining that it is sluggish starting sometimes. The dealership checked the battery and tells me that it needs to be replaced. The van is a 2000 MPV LX with 49,000 km on it (around 35K miles). The warranty coverage on the battery in Canada means that we need to pay $50 for a new battery. In three months, when the car turns 2 years old, the replacement battery will have a 25% warranty on it, since it takes on the warranty remaining for the original battery. The clock does NOT start over for the new battery.

Needless to say, I won't be buying a new Mazda battery. I can get an Interstate battery from another Mazda dealer for $90 CDN which has a 6 year warranty, and he'll install it for free. Has anybody heard of Interstate, and is it a decent brand of battery? Has anybody else had to replace a battery yet? The dealership says it tested the alternator and the rest of the electrical system, and could not find any excessive electrical draw.

I spoke to a Mazda Canada service rep who just quotes the party line to me. She couldn't even tell me what size battery I need. I made an appointment with the Mazda Canada District rep to discuss this issue. I'm angry and I want Mazda to fix the problem for me.

We already replaced all four Yokohama tires with Pirelli 3000's. (so far, so good). Mazda paid for the tires and ate most of the cost of the 4 hour alignment work that needed doing. It's a Mazda battery, for Pete's sake. When I called around to get quotes for new batteries, everybody sounded surprised that we would need one.

We still like our van, but we're not happy with the quality of the "consumables". This is not a cheap van.

maltb · January 2002

When you buy a battery from a Mazda dealer in the US it is an Interstate. They are made by Johnson Controls, who makes all the top battery brands. That's not a bad price either so I'd go with it.

jubnem · January 2002

I asked the service manager if they would be rebuilding or replacing the engine with a new one. He said they have no way of ordering a new engine for it, what they use is remanufactured engines. He went on to explain that these really are new, but just called remanufactured. I don't really understand that, can anyone elaborate? I'm guessing they take some new parts and some used parts and put them together to make an engine, is that right? Anything I should know or worry about with the remanufactured engine? Thanks so much for all your help!

maltb · January 2002

Re-manufactured just means that the specs have to be closer to a new engine than a rebuilt. Sometimes what happens is a manufacturer start a reman engine program, but has no engines to rebuild. What they end up doing is "seeding" the inventory with brand new engines until they get enough used engines to start rebuilding. Either way Tricia, you should do ok.

pricetag · January 2002

tboner1965 or anyone else know the TSB number for the front brake "spacer" (front brakes pop when backing out of parking place etc). I took the van in for this problem and they replaced everything, (and I mean everything) on the REAR brakes! Well, the front brakes still pop. I'm not complaining, at 32,400 miles getting a free brake job on the rear was okay with me!

alexv1n · January 2002

Here is the TSB details for you:

http://www.vakcer.com/mpv/info/tsb/00-02.htm

And yes, rear brake TSB calls for replacement of many components: http://www.vakcer.com/mpv/info/tsb/01-02r.htm

pricetag · January 2002

thanks for the links. I will take a copy to the dealer on Monday, as they say they never heard of a TSB on the front brakes.

jim2507 · January 2002

I haven’t seen this one on the board but wanted to share an incident that happened yesterday morning. First, my wife and I own a 2000 MPV LX with nearly 38,000 miles. All-in-all, we’ve been pleased and have had minimal problems. Yesterday morning, my 11-year old son closed the passenger-side sliding door rather hard and the window shattered. I wasn’t there when it happened so the level of “hardness” is unknown, but I would think that this window should withstand a variety of stresses.
I plan on paying for the replacement window myself but would like to know if this has happened to others.

bob57 · January 2002

Haven't shattered any sliding door windows - not that twenty 12 year old soccer players haven't tried.
I thought several of them were going to send the door down the street at times and I'm screaming "It's not a Ford...!".

)

javadoc · January 2002

Like Bob, I haven't heard of this happening. I'm thinking an outside force was at work here. I can imagine if there was something in the door when it closed that caused the frame to flex. My thinking is that if the door frame flexed, it would have loaded on the window glass and, "blam!" busted window.

Well, stranger things have happened.

Have you checked your insurance policy on your van? I believe something like this could quite possibly fall under either your Comprehensive or a separate Glass policy. Mine (w/State Farm) would go under my Comprehensive, and I have it w/a $100 deductible. It's worth a shot.

Good luck,

/java

maltb · January 2002

I seem to remember Jr. Asparagus saying something about the apple-chopper doing a number on the limited edition Art Bigotti plate. I wonder if the same happened to the van?

Sorry, too much Veggie Tales viewing in my house.

javadoc · January 2002

Just when I get out (of Veggie Tales) they pullll me back in!! There has been a ban on V.T. cds in my cars for the past 3mths... now I have to call my pshrynk! ;^S Don't make me call in the "Grapes of Wrath" on you Malt...

However, me thinks you are onto something there Maltb.

/j

j2kbarlow · January 2002

...the apple-chopper or the crocodile that chewed it up for quite a while that shattered the window? :O)

Sorry guys couldn't resist!

bob57 · January 2002

Wanted to relate a quickie;
Had an "almost flat' (20PSI) last week - right rear - driving home from work. Night, rain, miserable and tired and not looking forward to change it myself. Saw Discount Tires open at 6:10PM. Ran in humbly, "Can I get a flat fixed - pleeeease".
"Sure, takes a minute". It was pass their closing time and the crew looked tired.
They removed the tire, fixed it, rebalanced and I was on my way. BTW, since I was a customer previously last year, they did this free - wasn't even their tire.
Anyway, Saturday I went back and said I thought the tire might be out of balance because my "butt" told me that a shimmy was coming from the right rear (the van that is, guys...).
They pulled it and checked - it was way out. The guy looked at me and said "Good butt sensor there".
Good laugh and good tire place.

javadoc · January 2002

You know, I've always had good experiences with those folks, no matter what store I've stopped in at. I've had super success at the Nampa, Idaho store, in fact. Thanks for that nice story Bob, it's good to know that "service" is still important to some folks.

/sappy reply

/java

stone20 · January 2002

The front end noise that many are complaining about is fixed so far on my Van! They replaced the caliper guide plate kits (P0101BRX). Part# lcy8-33-29z. The other noise in the front end, they said the struts needed lubricated, which they did. So far so good. FYI

marcb · January 2002

i'm posting this link here for future reference only so the next time someone complains..

http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020116.htm

batvan1 · January 2002

Have just leased a new 2001 LX, picking it up before the New year. Thanks to all who have supported this forum, scolling through the postings was very helpful in the final decision to get one. I took it in for oil change and transmission flush at 1500km, as it's a vehicle I intend to buy at the end of the lease, and keep for a long time. The dealer rented a courtesy vehicle for me, and it turned out to be a Ford Windstar.... a day with that wallowing tank really reinforced the decision to get an MPV!

I agree with postings that the Durutec 2.5 is a bit thirsty, but it's very smooth and seems to have enough punch for what I want. The motor has a pretty good reputation, Ford or Mazda variant. I'm curious to see how they do with the 2002 3.0 version...this motor is used in the Tribute and Ford Escape equivalent, and they are both having significant engine problems according to their owner boards...

The later production 2001 seems to have been cured of most of the original irritations. It handles well, is comfortable (extemely easy to move around town, with great visibility) and seems powerful enough. My vote: pretty good choice!

medhoff · January 2002

First of all, thank you to all of you who take your time to help with all the issues that have been posted over the past year or so! It's been extremely helpful for me & my 2000 mpv.

Here are my problems with my 2000 mpv

1) The few times I've had to "slam" on the brakes, there was a horrific GRINDING noise and vibration coming from the brakes. I'm assuming that it is coming from the anti-lock braking system.?

2) When I'm driving over 50 mph, and then normally apply the brakes to slow down, there is a large vibration from the brakes from around 45-40 mph, and then it dissapears from 35mph until I stop.

3) I brought in my van for the "clunking" sound coming from the brakes when shifting from forward to reverse, and then stopping. I made them aware of the TSB that I found from this site. They installed the spacers. There has not been much difference.

I would greatly appreciate any help with these matters.

stone20 · January 2002

Refer to # 1575 for your 3rd problem with clunking. I had that problem on my Van. They fixed it. Seems OK so far. The second noise on the front end struts is still there on my Van. They lubricated something I need to find out what. It was a quick fix but did not last long for it to return. Hope the noise on #3 helps your situation. JL

billmckinley · January 2002

That vibration you're feeling on slamming the brakes is definitely the ABS. I had occasion to use mine on some snow-slick roads and that's the feeling you get. I'm not sure about the grinding noise, though. I wouldn't call the sound mine makes "horrible." There is a bit of a "grinding" noise as the brakes cycle on and off rapidly, but it's never been enough to alarm me.

RJ

louis1004 · January 2002

I keep reading from the post that MVP must use K&N oil filter. It is $10. I went to Wallmart and they sell Motorcraft oil filter (made by Ford) for $2. My question is, is it really necessary to use K&N oil filter because of the greater oil flow? I don't want to take chances but also if it is safe to use Motorcraft, I would like to use it. I would appreciate your response.

Louis1004

javadoc · January 2002

...Well, I think there's two schools of thought on oil filters for the MPV. They are: a) use the OEM filter; and 2) use the K&N filter. I would say at the very least use the OEM (Ford Motorcraft) filter. A lot of folks have switched over and begun using the K&N oil filter. It's of superb quality, better than the OEM and far better than a FRAM filter.

FWIW, I've been using the K&N filter the past two changes. I have the old filter from the change last week and was thinking of cutting it open to see how it handled 2,200 miles of Amsoil synthetic oil. We'll see... time is a scarce commodity at my house these days.

/javadoc

louis1004 · January 2002

Has anyone of you tried tornadofuelsaver in your MPV? I find my MPV lacking just a little bit of torque and horse power. Are there any other methods to increase the torque of MPV?

stever · January 2002

Tornado Fuel Saver...Hype?!?!?

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

dougsey · January 2002

I used the K&N oil filter once but have gone back to the MotorCraft. After cutting open the K&N, I came to the realization that there is less filter media due to the nut which in effect reduces the size of the canister and the media inside.

As for the higher stated flow rates, what's unclear to me is whether this is through the filter media or through the the filter in general (media + bypass).

The K&N has a 1/2" bypass opening vs. 8 3/16" holes on the MotorCraft. Which setup flows more I'm not sure. I suspect they are similar but perhaps someone more knowledgeable could calculate that.

My thinking is that I want the oil to flow through as much high quality media as I can get in a filter. If there are times when flow exceeds the capability of the media, then it will bypass.

loop3 · January 2002

I purchased a 2001 mpv dx in late December. This is my fourth mazda. I have several questions hope someone may know the answers to.

1. How reliable is the 2.5 duratec
2. Why did Mazda decrease the horsepower in the 2001 vs. 2000 model
3. I bought an extended warranty from warranty direct for $760.00 6 years 100000 miles, is this a good idea or not?
4. Why didn't Mazda use one of their own 6 cylinders for this van instead of using one from Ford.

Thanks for any help

pjd58 · January 2002

Sean,

Welcome, I'll try to answer your questions. Good luck with your new MPV, most owners have had very few issues and love their van.

1) The 2.5 is very reliable, used in the Contour, Cougar and Mystique, with nary a problem.
2) To bring the engine to NLEV( National Low Emission Vehicle) emission standards. 2001 owner's lose 10 horses.
3) It's a personal decision. I've heard good things about Warranty Direct. Although, I have little trust in 3rd party warranty companies, too many fail. Also, some Mazda dealers may not accept your claim
4)It was a way for Mazda to keep the cost down of the new MPV

Pjd58

stone20 · January 2002

I dont like the idea because when you buy the extended warranty in years, it starts from the day you buy it. Which means your only getting 3 extra years for the cost. The first 3 years are covered by manufacture warranty. If you get a warranty in miles thats a different story vs. years. The idea is to try find a warranty with miles only. The other thing is look at everything that it covers because most of the time its things that don't break in that time period. Remember one thing about this is your betting something is going to go wrong and ther betting it wont. Just like life insurance. These are just my thoughts, go with your gut feeling on this matter.

loop3 · January 2002

Thank you for your comments about the Mazda 2001

kkcymru · January 2002

While the use of the FORD Duratec engine was a cost issue, at least from what I read, it was a cost hedging issue rather than a simple cost savings issue.

When the MPV production was being planned there was concern over producing the van entirely in Japan. The yen was much more expensive versus the dollar than it is now and the vehicle might be too expensive in the US, especially if the yen continued to strengthen. The solution: produce a major part of the car in the US. It had to be a high cost item that could either be shipped to Japan or installed later. The obvious choice had to be the engine. It couldn't have hurt that Contour sales weren't so hot and Ford had lots of extra production capacity and Ford owns a big chunk of Mazda.

In hindsight, the yen has gone from 90 to the dollar then to more than 130 to the dollar today. In terms of cost, Mazda probably would have been better off building their own engine than shipping Ford engines from the U.S., but of course they didn't know that when they made their plans.

maltb · January 2002

Don't forget about the structure of the Ford group now. Mazda is basically out of V-6 development and has been designated to design large I-4 engines. So rather than use the even more aged Mazda 2.5, they went with the current scheme of things.

BTW, you'll notice that the new 2.3L Ford motor is the first Mazda engine to be developed under that agreement. So far so good with that one too.

auerbach · January 2002

So does that mean that the 6 cylinder in the upcoming Mazda6 will be Ford designed, while the 4 cylinder will be Mazda designed???

maltb · January 2002

but both will be built in the US at ford engine plants.

dougsey · January 2002

I'm getting the clunking almost everytime I apply the brakes. Has anyone else had this problem on the 2001? I see there's a TSB on the 2000 but I don't see it on the '01.

hankrtg · February 2002

I just recently bought the 2001 MPV and have also noticed a slight clunk sometimes when releasing the brake pedal. For me, it is not too bothersome. I don't hear it all of the time, and it is not very loud. So far, that is the only real issue with my MPV. I sometimes wonder whether the speedometer is reading high or not because it seems I'm getting passed a lot more often on highways I frequently drive.

caniel · February 2002

Hello folks. I haven't posted here in a long while...too much fun driving my 2000 lx around!
I've got two interesting problems, I'm hoping my fellow MPV enthusiasts might shed some light upon. First, there is this intermittent humming sound (like a small electrical motor) coming from the engine compartment. Water pump about to go? ABS problem? Any ideas? I'll be taking it to the dealer soon - still under warranty at 29,000 absolutely flawless miles. Also, my wife was having such a good time driving the van recently, she forgot to stop at the light in time and slightly rear-ended a big SUV - fortunately no one hurt and no damage to the other vehicle. Our beloved MPV, however, sustained a nasty dent (didn't crack the paint thankfully) as it hit the hitch of the other vehicle. Estimate to repair is well over $1200!!! Ouch. With a $500 deductible, I'll live with it, but it is driving her crazy. Any ideas on where I could find a used hood? Any 2000/2001 MPV's been severely rear-ended out there? Any suggestions or clues on these two matters will be highly appreciated. Zoom! Zoom! I'm so envious of those who will be riding in the 3.0 -5 sp. but we'll have to wait until we're not "upside down" in our payment on our current buggy. Cheerio! -

pricetag · February 2002

Alex, thanks again for the vakcer TSB link on the MPV.
It sure makes it easy to get something fixed at the dealer if you take a printed copy of the TSB with you.
Would you know a link to obtain TSB for my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer?
(I went to the Town Hall chevy board however couldn't find any info).

alexv1n · February 2002

Sorry, no info on Trailblazer :-)

You can try NHTSA web site: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/

They already have summary for 16 TSBs. You can pay them to get full details on certain TSB that interest you but I never did it before, so I don't know how well it works (if at all).

ALLDATA also has list of TSBs but their database is way underwhelming. They just added info for 2000 models and even though I paid $25 hoping to get full details on all TSBs for MPV, they had only 5 or so. And that's when there are a dozen out there. I had to resort to other sources to gather the remaining information.

In other words, there's no single reliable source. Try looking everywhere. You could ask your dealership for info on specific TSBs. At least they can show it to you on paper...

scarter7719 · February 2002

<<In other words, there's no single reliable source....>> Alex, you're a humble guy! Your vakcer site is excellent. I really like what you've done with the TSB info.

Dougsey: I have the clunking noise on my '01 LX as well, but it's not terribly annoying. Some noise is normal and to be expected. If mine doesn't get any worse, I'll probably leave it alone, unless anyone else on this board knows of any safety concerns relating to this problem (?). As you have noted, the TSB only lists the '00. Also, there's no "..with VIN #'s lower than xxxxx...." statement on this one, so it's hard to tell whether the dealer will perform the work or not. You'll probably just have to print it out and give it a try. Let us know if you do.

SC

bob57 · February 2002

The "humming" noise may be your A/C compressor kicking on. Mine hums but I only hear it idling and usually only if all other outside noise is gone - like when I'm in the garage.
Also, check the electric fan kicking on & off.

cards_200 · February 2002

(Another possibility)
We have had few problems with our 2000 LX. But one recent problem - an intermittent 'humming' or 'buzzing' noise. This noise started around 33K miles. I cannot get too specific on sound because I don't drive the van too much. The dealer seemed to know right away. They diagnosed as "Idle Air Control Valve Sticking". They had to order part. One month later - this indeed did correct the problem. The dealer said it is a common problem and they are re-desiging the (IAC) valve. However I have never seen anyone else with this problem on the board here (other than perhaps yours).

Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions