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Thanks Again
Hope this helps....JL
Going home two nights ago in the carpool lane of the 91 Freeway, Southern California. Traffic is solid in the right lanes bumper to bumper, Concrete median to my left, cruising at about 60 mph. Notice a 3'x3' piece of styrofoam floating in the air on the way back to earth. Visual check to my right, no place to go, solid wall of cars going about 20 mph, left side is concrete barrier. Looks like my car will meet this piece of styrofoam. Hit the brakes just a bit, hoping the styrofoam would land on the ground before I hit it, without having the car behind me end up in my trunk. No luck, still hit the POS Styrofoam. I hear some un-nerving crunching sounds, few seconds later I check my rearview mirror and see the styrofoam piece in several pieces. Figure I would check the damage to my car when I get out of the carpool lane, several miles downs. Can't be too bad, it is a piece of styrofoam, Right? Stopped, turned off my car, Bumper grill cracked in a couple of places. I figured not too bad. Then I started my car, and I hear this really loud noise, kind of like a jet engine being started or a car with really loud exhaust. I Look over next to me and a couple of cars were there. I thought it was one of the other cars. I figure turn off my car and see if noise goes away. Sure enough, it does. Started my car again and noise comes back. Turn off my car, noise disappears. I am in disbelief. My car is making this horrific sound. Pop the hood open and Started the car up again and I hear the noise coming from the area near the auxillary fan.
I guess that piece of styrofoam got jammed between the front bumper grill and the road before breaking into pieces. It cracked the bumper grill, looks like it broke some of the netting(shroud) covering the auxillary (aux.) fan and may have bent some of the aux. fan blades. Hence the noise from the aux. fan.
Curious, are the blades on the aux. fan plastic or metal? It was late at night and I had to leave early in the morning before sunrise so I left my car at home and carpooled with my co-worker. Until I figure out what to do.
I talked to someone at one of the parts dept of local BMW dealer and he said that the Aux. fan is an assembly which will have to be replaced entirely if the blades are bent or the netting/shroud is broken. Also I may need to replace the entire front bumper if the brackets/mounting points for the bumper grill are broken.
I got a quote for the bumper grill ~$30, and the aux fan ~$250 for parts only. Need to add labor cost. Now, if I need a new front bumper ~$1,100 (BMW dealer) which includes painting. If bumper is intact and just needs to be painted then it is ~$750 (same dealer).
I know I need to take another look and check if the front bumper mounting brackets for the grill are intact. If they are, then a new bumper grill and maybe an aux. fan is all I need.
I contacted my insurance company - State Farm. They indicated that this would be covered under my Comprehensive portion. Long Beach BMW is one of their preferred repair facility. If I decide to use LB BMW then they can do all the repairs necessary and bill State Farm directly without the involvement of a claims adjuster.
If I decide to use another repair facility, I was thinking about Shelly BMW, then an adjuster will be involved and I am sure that there will have to be some negotiations/ haggling over what needs to be repaired and how much they will pay for the parts/labor for this work.
The reason I was thinking about Shelly for the repair is that I typically maintain my cars there. They are a lot closer to me than LB and they have been excellent to deal with for the last year and a half. Only thing is Shelly doesn't have their own body shop. They contract their body work with Spectrum Collision in Irvine.
I feel more comfortable having LB BMW do the repairs, since they are a BMW Dealership and have their own bodyshop on premises. My car is CPO'd and I am planning on keeping it for about 5 years, until CPO runs out. The only thing I was thinking about that, in the future when I have a mechanical warranty claim, and I take my car to Shelly, I don't want to have Shelly say that, "Oh, this part failed because you had your accident and it should have been replaced then, or This wasn't repaired properly, etc..."
Don't like playing the finger pointing game.
Sorry for the rant, just had to get it off my chest,
Has anyone had any experience with either Long Beach BMW or Shelly BMW/Spectrum Collision for body work?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts/opinions,
Spyderred.
Anyway, is there any chance your car is eligible for one of the aux fan recall campaigns?
Sorry, I don't know anything about those dealers, but if it were I'd probably go with the path of least resistance (i.e. LB BMW). Fighting the insurance company is rarely fun or entirely successful.
I still would have to do something about the body work, so since the insurance will be involved anyway, I may as well have them pay for all of the repairs.
My other option, that is if the bumper mounting brackets are still intact to mount a new bumper grill, is to buy the aux fan and grill and have one of my mechanic friends put it in for me.
This car has been my baby and I just want to make sure that it will be repaired properly and also so that I don't have any future problems with CPO warranty claims.
Lookslike going with LB BMW is the safest bet right now, least amount of headaches with insurance company and at least my car will be repaired by a BMW dealer. If any issues come up later w/CPO claims, I will deal with them then.
Thanks for your input,
Spyderred.
Does it work?
Does it look good?
Comments?
I am going to drive my new 525 from TN to AZ later this year and do not want any damage from rocks and bugs.
Thanks
BMW offers one such kit, which I think costs around $150-200 for all of the pieces. Following the advice of a gentleman who's installed a number of these kits, however, I went the kit cut by Xpel (www.xpel.com). It's more expensive (just over $300 for the headlight, hood, bumper, fender, and side mirror pieces), but the fit is surprisingly better than BMW's own cut and includes fewer pieces for better protection and appearance.
Self installation (which I chose to do) is certainly viable, but it does take some skill and a lot of patience to do it right. A pro will probably charge another $200-300 for the installation. For those who are paranoid, I know of a shop here in Atlanta (I'm sure there are similar ones elsewhere) that custom cuts pieces to cover the car even more extensively: the A-pillars, around the doors, behind the wheels, etc.
I've had the film on for about 11 months now, and it's definitely helped prevent a number of scratches or dings in the paint from pebbles and other small road debris, and has protected the headlights from cracking (XPel offers a headlight guarantee just in case).
As for the appearance, its edge is certainly visible from certain angles, but considering the alternatives (a traditional fabric bra or paint damage) it's the best choice.
Noticed that two Long Beach BMW ads take up about 3/4ths of page 37 in February 2003 issue of Bimmer magazine. And a Long Beach BMW ad takes up a quarter of page 100 in January 2003 issue of Roundel (BMW CCA) magazine. (I'm not sure where Long Beach is, but noticed that the Pacific Region of BMW CCA has chapters in LA and San Diego. You might contact them to see what they think of this dealership.)
After looking at a few web pages, XPel seems to have the best product.
I will also install the kit myself, any lessons learned?
Thanks!
Several postings I have seen seem to indicate about 3k off MSRP on a 530.
What are common 36 mo lease pmts for a 530 with an MSRP of about $46k?
Thanks for such a wealth of great info. Jeff
Although most dealers will initially tell you that ED prices are not negotiable, they are. Shop around and you should be able to find a dealer that is willing to sell the car for $1,200 to $1,500 over ED invoice. That's equal to roughly $1,500 under US invoice. There is more paperwork for them, but the car does not come out of their US delivery allocation and is counted towards their sales targets / bonuses.
You are right, there is a delay of several weeks between picking up the car in Europe and receiving it bakc in the states. I haven't done it yet, but I think the delay is more like 4-6 weeks, not 2-3 months. And, since I will be paying cash and keeping my current car until the new one arrives here, I am not incurring finance or lease costs before actually driving the car. (Given the way my stock portfolio has performed, I'm not giving up any opportunity cost either, unfortunately).
It may not be for you, but I'd look into it further before ruling it out.
Thanks for the responses. The Bmwusa site is handy, but it only lists 01', and the options listed don't seem complete.
Are there any technology differences between the 01'.03' 530i??
Were split fold down seats an option in 01'?
I love the alloys for 98'>99' Sport package; are these the same wheels that are standard on the 01'>03' 530i, or??.....The 98'>99' wheels look different, but what do I know??
Thanks for the post on the Xpel coating!
Looking forward to a 530i.
Dave
Hope this helps...JL
I was really interested to find out if the technology was different between the 01' > 03' 530i; apparently they're the same car.
As far as options/packages, I've spent some time in an 03' 530i and many of the options for the 01' & 02' cars, are standard on the 03'.
I'll figure the alloys out as I go along, but neither dealer here is able to tell me if the split fold down rear seats was even an option in the 01' 530i, nor did they know if it was an option on the 97' > 00' 528i-no old brochures, service didn't know, etc....? The CPO page on Bmwusa doesn't list all options.
Does anyone know?
Also, any major problems/issues with the 01' > 02' 530's?
Thanks,
Dave
What are you finding CPO prices to be on the 2001 530s? Ones I've seen around the SF bay area seem to be $40-42K!!, not sure why anyone would any one buy that vs a new 525 for less and a new 530 for a just a bit more w/ some shopping??
Hope this is helpful.
It's probably not going to be $5,400 in savings, since you can generally get a US delivered model for $1,500 to $2,000 over US invoice, but going to Europe should still save you at least an additional $3,000.
Occasionally, I hear a rattling noise (pretty minor) from both side B pillars. Is it normal? Nothing annoying though - but then, I want to hear only the tire noise and audio sound and nothing else while driving my car
Am I becoming too paranoid?
39-41k for 01' 530i's here in AZ.
Personally, after driving them both, I'd spring for the 3.0 vs the 2.5.
Other than the posted TSB's, are there any real issues/problems with the 01' or 02' 530i's?
Dave
I've priced out a very well equiped 2003 530i for under $42k through discounted ED (5-speed, SP, Xenons, Hi-Fi, etc.). Doesn't count the trip to Europe, but I'll either go cheap for a weekend (under $1k), or take my wife and kids for a nice little vacation and still end up well ahead.
Why in the world someone would pay any more than $33-35k for a two year old 530i when a new one can be purchased for $42k through ED is beyond me. Even at $32k, that is less than 25% depreciation over two years for the original owner. I'll split the difference with you right now. I'll agree to sell you a 2003 530i in 2005 for $36.5k. It will be pampered. You'll think you got a good deal and I will have driven a 530i for about $250 per month in depreciation.
Don't get me wrong, the 530i is a great car and if any sedan deserves to have great resale, that's the one. But that's also a good reason to buy new.
2003 530 through Munich Pick-up:
34,784
455 Xenons
2,095 Sport Package
2,095 Premium Package
545 Cold Weather Package
695 Shipping
40,650 Total Price
1,500 US dealer at $1500 over invoice
42,150 Is that correct?
If it is, does anyone someone in the Chicago area that will take that price?
Especially since you can point out to them that they make the same amount as a US delivered car without losing one from their allocation (this was an issue when the 530i's were hot and the dealers didn't want to discount, since they couldn't get as many as they could sell t or near MSRP).
Good luck.
Many thanks for the ED info!! I didn't realize so much could be purchased for so little.
Other than eurobuyers.com, what other sites can you point us to for info..
Dave
I selected XPel as well and have been pleased with it. The installation is fairly straightforward, but as I said it requires both practice and patience in perfecting the art of applying the film. When ordering, be sure to ask for the free video that demonstrates how to install. They make it look easy, but view it over and over (and read the printed directions) until you know them well. Start with easier pieces like the headlight, fender, and side mirror pieces, and leave the hood piece until last. Set aside PLENTY of time--probably 6-8 hours total for the full kit--since you don't want to rush it. Don't be afraid to use too much of the water-alcohol solution: you can't get the stuff "too wet." Keep it wet, and you'll have enough time to ensure it's positioned correctly and no air bubbles are trapped. Also, do not install in direct sunlight, since that will dry the water-alcohol solution very quickly, but be sure there's sufficient light to easily spot air bubbles, since they can hide easily in shady conditions.
Good luck. Email me if you have other questions.
Although small, the Pennsylvania dealer in my former home town is of high integrity. They refused to mark up M5's when they were selling for $25k+ premiums on E-Bay. When I stopped in their showroom a year ago, they were preparing an M5 for pick-up by a surgeon from Phoenix. Even if a local dealer in the DC area matches their price, I'd consider buying from them just to reward their professionalism.
But, since many dealerships make a huge chunk (if not majority) of their profits from service work, why turn customers away? It's in the dealer's interest to make work covered by warranty, since they get paid either way and the customer is always more pleased when BMW has to pick up the tab.
In my researching the same issue, it is a "manufacturers" warranty, not a "dealer" warranty. Unless you leave the U.S., you are entitled to warranty work at ANY BMW dealership. That doesn't mean the dealer is legally bound to be polite or prompt, but they must perform the work. And, according to a BMW North America representative I contacted several months ago, they would be more than happy to intervene, if necessary. He even sent me a letter confirming this policy. Dealers are a mixed lot, but BMW NA impressed me as customer service oriented.
Too bad you don't have more competition in your area.
Yesterday, for about the 7th time since 1996, I've seriously tried to buy a new BMW from my local BMW dealer. Was going to trade in her 2000 323ia. Wife wanted a 2003 325xia. Right color, right options. They had two identical units on lot. Dealer even quickly discounted the car $1,500 off MSRP (essentially splitting the differnce off published invoice). But, as has foiled me every other time, the trade value just doesn't seem right. He wants to buy low to sell high. So yet again we went away empty handed. I kidded the salesperson that maybe sometime in 2003 we'll break the curse and consumate a deal. If not, there is always 2004.
snagiel... (1) The way Infiniti and Lexus handle loaner cars and customer service is far superior to BMW's requirements with their dealers. (2) Warranty work isn't overly profitable. If you do it right, you'll cover variable expenses. Keep in mind it is not done on a cost plus basis where the manufacturer just trusts the dealer. But due to the way these activities are reimbursed (e.g., the dealer will only get paid so much for a particular type of work, so it doesn't pay to spend more than the alloted time on it), no dealer makes a lot of money off warranty work. Most dealers make more profit off their used cars. Just try to get the "invoice" for the dealer's used cars. You won't ever know what he paid for it. And he won't and doesn't have to tell you. Dealers buy low (e.g., give as little it trade, buy at auctions, etc.) and sell as high as they can. They love to sell used cars.
habitat1... I live in the great midwest. Part of flyover country. Chicago is about 8 hours of interstate driving away. In my state only the selling dealer has to service the car. I had problems with a local Chrysler dealer back in '95. He was horrid. One day he wouldn't service it any more. Called State's AG's office. They confirmed he didn't have to. Called Chrysler. They can't force him to. (In most state's, dealers are a very powerful lobby.) But Zone Rep. hooked me up with a better dealer in the next-door state. I quickly sold the car. But I learned my lesson.
or is it that those who still go to the dealer are willing to pay more? so they really did raise the price, after giving up on the other customers.
Thankfully BMW has gone to 4/50 "free" plan for MY2003. Was kind of iritating to contemplate whether to buy the extra time or not. Was a gamble. This way now you are fully covered by b-to-b warranty and maintenance agreement during 4/50 period.
With the MY 1998 and newer BMWs, I have few concerns with purchasing the CPO units I did as regards whether they were maintained.
BUT does seem like the minute BMW or MB started "paying" for "free" maintenance that the service intervals were lengthened. Getting new oil and filter change about every 15,000 miles still bugs me a bit. Even with big sumps and synthetic oil. Think they should change the oil filter every 6 months or 7,500 miles, which comes first.
Real price of MY2003 E39 5 Series has fallen. Wife and I test drove an '03 525ia the other day. With PP, CWP, and Xenon. While the base list rose a bit, you have to keep in mind that some good things more than offset the small increase:
1. Free maintenance is now for 4 years or 50,000 miles. Up from 3/36. That upgrade used to cost about $400 and up depending on the dealer.
2. Rear head airbags are now standard.
3. Sunroof is now standard.
4. Some items have been added to the 525i Premium Package (e.g., auto headlights and rain-sensing windshield wipers).
When I compared MY2003 price to MY2002 price, there was only about a $600 difference. But the above, to me at least, more than offset that.
My car was running and all of a sudden my Climate control LED goes out at about 8:00 pm and the blower goes on high. All display was out and I could not shut of the blower. Even when I turned the car off, there was no change in the situation. I called Roadside Assistance and there were useless. (What a joke this service is if the local dealer is closed when you call).
I decided to find the fuse and pull it so I could shut off heat. Either my brain was frozen with the 7 degree temparuture or the fuse schematic is dumb put I decided to go fuse by fuse and see what worked.
Luckily I only had to reach #4 and it shut the blower off. I replaced it and everything works fine.
Three questions:
1. #4 fuse is for Trunk and Compartment lighting. How does that affect the Automatic Climate Control?
2. What happened. Did a relay get stuck because of the frigid weather?
3. Should I get it checked out by the dealer. I drove today and no problems.
Thanks
If it's any consolation, during the same cold night my upstair neighbors' pipes froze, exploded, and subsequently gushed about fifty gallons of water into our bathroom and bedroom today. Fortunately I was home to get it stopped so quickly.
I am currently working with XPel to see if they will modify the kit so I can install two pieces of film once I remove the front license plate.
Thanks again,
SEL3