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Comments
My service manager told me the same thing, these cars are ready to go right out of the box. He also said that the only thing you may want to do is after aggressive driving to idle the car a bit.
Apparently Volvo supports this "no-break-in" because I have heard and read it countless times even though it goes against everything we have learned over the years. same thing with those 7500 mile oil changes. I can't bring myself to wait that long!
My S60 has been very reliable and in Ottawa, we have had the worst winter I can recall. 10 straight days of -40C+ weather. Not only did my car start but it heats up very quickly. This is a car made in a country with rough winters and I think all Canadians and Americans living North of New York can be thankful about that.
she has stuck in her head the "volvo safety/durability" ideas from the 70's and 80's when we grew up. i just wonder if the newer cars are as good. my 1980 hand me down 240 DL was not reliable really, but it was durable in that i couldn't "kill" it, ya know? all news car are so much more complex....
it is snowy this weekend, so i don't think we will go out looking at cars.
This was the break-in procedure that I followed:
1. After starting, gentle drive-off (no more than 1,500 rpm) until the coolant temperature is showing activity. Depending on the outside weather, you could be looking at 1/4 to 1/2 mile.
2. After the coolant is starting to warm-up, no more than 2,000 rpm for the first 500 miles. Also, vary the engine loads (absolutely NO cruise control during this period). This may be one instance where stop-and-go traffic is actually good for the car....
3. After the first 500 miles, but until 1,000 miles, follow the same approach in 2. above, but keep the rpm below 3,000.
4. After 1,000 miles, change the oil and filter, and your car will continue the break-in process at its own pace. I would use Mobil 1 synthetic for the oil. There are others that are big fans of Amsoil or other synthetics; which oil to use is a personall decision - I am not a lubrication engineer, what was good for the factory is what is good for me.
One final note, if you have an automatic transmission, I would change the transmission oil at 3,000 miles. This may be perceived to be over-maintaining; however, if you want to keep the car for as long as possible, you need to get the tiny metal particles out of the transmission as soon as possible.
We have been told by Volvo to keep the engine out of redline for the 1st 1,000 miles. Varying speeds isn't necessary however. Nor is an early oil change.
I followed these steps w/ my C70 and have had no problems and I drive it pretty fast.
Driving and maintenance of your car is your choice - removing the metal particles that are the by-product of breaking in the engine and transmission will result in a longer lifespan. If you are only going to keep the car for the duration of the factory warranty, then by all means, follow the factory's maintenance program.
I live in Indiana so we get some snow...just got 5" last night. My FWD C70 with all season tires did OK and the TCS definitely kicked in a lot last night and this morning. What are everyone's thoughts on the 2.5T FWD vs. 2.5T AWD? That's what I'm down to. I like nautic blue and would like to get the graphite/indigo interior but I'm not sure if that option is available.
So my question is, what would you recommend in considering these three cars in my situation. Anyone look at these and drive them with thoughts?
Volvo S60R, metallic paint, 6spd, premium, climate, touring, 18' wheels
MSRP: 41,475
Lease Term: 48 mo/12K
Residual: 44% of MSRP (18,249)
Rebate: $4,500, 1K to dealer, $3,500 cash to me
Acq. 795 (cap to lease)
Filing 389 (cap to lease)
Adj. Cap Cost 42,403
1 mo. payment: paid by dealer
Monthly Payment before taxes: 648.77/687.70 w/ tax
Money factor: .0024(roughly 5.76% annual interest)
$$ due at signing: $0.
Comments.
Monday I found the same fluid under the XC. Brought it in and guess what, a defective clamp associated with the $51.00 to replace the defective clamp.
What I want to know is why do I have to pay for a "defective" part? Anyone else having this problem with leaking power steering fluid or do I just happen to own two different cars from the same company coincidently with the same problem?
Also, i wanted to comment on that residual. That is pretty harsh. Just comparing to some lease deals I've seen on Hondas lately (one of which was a 4-year deal on a CRV we got for my sister), they are giving 52% after 4 years. Volvos are really getting hit hard. Makes me want to stay away from buying new ones. Oh well.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I agree the residual is a little low.
Thanks for the input!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks.
-rollie
rdollie@att.net
Also, dealer is keeping 1K but applying it to 1st months payment, tags, title such that cap cost on lease is only being reduced by 250 of the 1000 but i'm benefitting from the cash.
Once again, input appreciated
What lease company is that through?
There are better leases than that out there.
Assuming you qualify.
Residual should be @ 46% Money factors in the .00150-.00200 range for A+ tiers.
In my opinion, the residual seemed more in line with 15K miles a year which is what i'll push for if I pull the trigger.
I'm not sure if I can get a better $$ factor AND the rebate but i'm sure going to try.
Appreciate the continued input. We'll post more as information comes to light.
1.How much is the Sport Pkg cost?
--invoice/MSRP
2.Any rebates for purchasing,not leasing?
3.How much everybody paying for this car?
--Silver/blue, Premium pkg, Climate pkg, 18" Ti wheels, Sport pkg.
-- Is it possible to buy the car for $500 over invoice since demand is so low?
4. Anybody could explain why OSD is the cheaper way to buy the car?
-- I still have to pay the state sale tax, right?
Thanks in advance
How does the car seat work in the S60. Any brand recommendations? Thanks.
Can be used w/ any lease company that does business in your locale.
You can click here you can see what the ALG RV is:
http://cars.com/carsapp/national/?szc=02446&srv=lease&act- - =rv&mknm=Volvo&mdnm=S60+SERIES&yr=2004&mr=&x=- - 10&y=7
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Any thoughts on how to best approach the dealer on pricing for this because I'm ending my C70(also nautic blue) lease in May so I'd probably have to order this car....or should I just risk it and wait and see what's on the lot at the time my lease is up (which I don't really want...but maybe the deal would be better). I am definitely buying my next car.
With a $3500 rebate and such, etc, the payments on that Volvo should be MUCH lower for a 48 month lease.
Don't do it.
P.S. My '95 Legend LS Coupe stickered at $43,970 and I leased it at $659.70. I also rolled EVERYTHING into that lease plus the $4000 I was upsidedown in my '92 Vigor, plus MD charge an EXTRA 5% lease tax to every payment back then. Bottom line is that Volvo lease bites.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
1) Is this goal achievabvle? Or this price is too low? This price includes a $3000 incentive which will expire on 2/29/04.
2) Should I add DSTC (in Northeast, we have had a very bad snowy winter and I drive from NJ to CT twice a week.)?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Black Sapphire or Silver metallic color.
Premium package.
No DSTC. No Xenon lights.
$30590.
I am trying to ask the dealer to give me Edmunds price which is $33307-$3000 incentive = $30307.
It seems it is difficult to get a deal based on carsdirect.com's target price, $29278.
How do you think about this quote?
Thanks.
I never have, so I can't say if it works or not, but I've been wanting to find out.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Just recently, I have been offered s60 AWD with premium+sports package for $29410. If you like e-mail me and I will provide the sales person's name and the delaership.
Final negotiated deal:
MSRP 41,725
Term 48mos
Residual: 44% or 18,381 (right in line w/ ALG)
Intial Cap Cost: 41,225 (gave me 500 off)
Adj. Cap Cost: 42,162 (acq. + filing - 297 of 4500 rebate)
Money Factor: .00185 (roughly 4.44%)
Monthly Pay before taxes: 607.43
Cash to me ($3500 rebate + 1mos 607.43) or 4107.43
No $$ down.
All service through 36,000 miles included
I feel the deal is fair now imho
S60-R w/ 18', premium & climate, 6spd
Happy hunting. I pick it up at mos end
2. To qbrozen: if you mean that I should try to buy a car from carsdirect, here are the answers. I did call carsdirect. A Rep told me that if I see TARGET PRICE on the screen, they do not sell it. If I see CONFIGURATED PRICE, they have the car. I then assume cars like VOLVO, AUDI, BMW will not be sold by carsdirect.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
We're about to buy a new S60 for my wife, and I'm a little confused about the information on the Edmunds site about the rebates available on this car. I would like to ask if anyone knows what is really available:
The incentives section shows the following:
- $1000 Factory cash rebate to customers
- $1000 Marketing support to dealers
- $3500 Marketing support to dealers
Are the $1000 and $3500 marketing support amounts additive, or does the $3500 replace the $1000 support? Also, is there really an additional $1000 factory cash to customers? Is there really $4500 - or $5500 - of rebate available on this car?
Any enlightenment would be greatly appreciated - we want to buy the car this week, and like everyone else, want to spend as little as possible.
Thank you!
Nick
Good luck - let us know how it works out.
Nick
2004 Model S60 2.5T A SR
Ice White
Suggested list price 29310
Sport Package 795
Premium package 2595
Destination charge 685
Total suggested retail 33385
I paid 29185. Only 4200 difference. After reading some of these postings it looks like I left 1000 or more on the table. Perhaps you are looking at one with more options?
36 mo. 12k/yr. - .00041 money factor 55% residual
48 mo. 12k/yr. - .00041 money factor 46% residual
or
lease through someone else and get $4500 in alernate finance lease cash.
When I was at the dealership on Saturday he thought I was making this up until I really pressed him on it. If you aren't being given these numbers, take a walk.
If anyone has bought an R in Colorado I would love to know what you paid.
Thanks.
I'm wondering if I should stick with the 16" all season tires or do you think the 17" all season tires will be good enough for a central Indiana winter. One more thought would be to replace the wheels/tires to 16" for the winter but I don't really want to pay that much.
The Michelins are amazing and pretty quiet for a winter tire. I think that you can get the 16s on rims for the price of 17s...go for the 16s. In fact, the size I have is the standard T5 tire.
You'll have to go w/ the factory 17" alloy and snow tires. Your dealer will have an approved list.
Still, the Michelins are amazing.