We almost bought a new Honda Civi ex (2006 model) but I was uncomfortable with the idea of paying MSRP($21K+ out the door) for a civic, even the really nice new one. I then realized I could get the car of our dreams for LESS! I did some research and we just picked up a 2003 S60 with leather, moonroof, climate package, in really excellent shape (at least I hope so!!) with 31K miles for $15,850 . I think that was a great price, yes? Anyway, does anyone have any thoughts or experience with triple A's extended warranty plans? :confuse:
how far from Freehold are you? Personally, I stopped going to the dealer altogether when my warranty was up. I found a private shop that specializes in volvos by the name of Pro Vovo (yes, without the L) in Freehold that does great work for MUCH less than the dealer.
It was easy when I used to live in Freehold. Now I live a half hour away, but still take my car there. They are very popular, so, if you want a Saturday appt, call no later than the Monday prior.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
You might want to try Warranty Direct as its the same company that provides the service for the Volvo Warranty! And you can buy Warranty Direct for a used car.
I regrettably now cannot garage my car so its outside at night in winter. Is there a way of preventing ice formation on windshields? I would guess that maybe a simple tarp would work but are there any sprays that would alleviate the problem?
Rain-X asserts that this product will de-ice your windshield at temperatures down to -25F. It will remove 'frost, light snow & ice'. It will repel rain, sleet, snow and ice. Of course it will also perform the rudimentary function of cleaning your windshield. Directions
Open hood, locate windshield washer reservoir and fill with Rain-X De-Icer Windshield Washer Fluid. Close hood. Clean windshield as needed.
Unfortunately, i won't remove anything when ice and snow are covering your washer jets.
If it actually prevents ice from forming on the windshield, then great.
I only have one past experience with rain-x and it wasn't really a good one. It was many many years ago when it was still fairly new, but i found it left a residue that, under certain conditions, would actually affect visibility. I never heard that complaint from anybody else, so maybe its just me.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Rain-X asserts that this product will de-ice your windshield at temperatures down to -25F. It will remove 'frost, light snow & ice'. It will repel rain, sleet, snow and ice. Of course it will also perform the rudimentary function of cleaning your windshield.
I used that crud last winter - the orange color stained the paint on the hood. I had to clay it out.
This is as basic a question as it gets - but I have misplaced my owners manual - but the dipstick has no markings! There is a little twist area and my oil level is halfway between the end of the dipstick and this little twist/wriggle spot. Is this an OK reading?
New to the forum, joined today. Wondering if anyone fellow S60 owners have experienced problems with the 17 inch Tethys wheels, which I chose for my '02 S60 T5. I have had to replace two of them already (one was definitely my fault, the other was discovered when replacing the tires...), very disappointed with their quality considering my S60 only has 36000 miles and is barely 3 years. My wife has complained to Volvo regarding the quality of the wheels. Other than that I love our T5, we also own an '05 Chrysler Crossfire Limited, but the T5 is more fun to drive...
The only way a wheel gets bent is if you hit something with it. You can't expect to hit a pothole or curb and not do damage to an aluminium wheel. Since you admit one was your fault, the other must have been as well. Compalining to a motor co because you damaged the wheels isn't fair.
I am looking at getting and '02 S60AWD with 28k for $22,000. I have never owned a Volvo before. The price includes an extended warrenty to 100,000 miles. I am really having a hard time with the price. The only other luxury car I have owned was an Audi A4 1.8T. The repairs were outragious. I am not looking forward to the same with the Volvo.
I am hearing a lot of problems with the accelleration after being in traffic. Is this really common for the 2002's or are those isolated insodents?
Also what is the deal with the stereo? I am a huge music fan and if the 12 speaker system is not great is there problems doing aftermarket upgrades to it?
I am on a time crunch I have to deside in the next 24 hrs if I am getting the care.
I bought an '02 s60 awd a month ago, and I've had no acceleration problems after being in traffic (and I've driven in in freeway traffic as well as stop and go). Maybe I don't know what these problems are supposed to be though? What is supposed to be happening?
The warranty: find out how long (timeframe) you have on the warranty. Mine was a CPO, so the warranty runs until Sept. 2008 (or 100,000, but I won't expire on miles) and then I got a another year's warranty. The repairs on this car are expensive, just like the Audi, so be aware--I'd be loathe to run this car w/o some type of warranty.
Radio: I'm not in love the radio. I do have better sound now that I adjusted with the "hidden equalizer" but I would have preferred the 8xx series HU than the 6xx one that is stock with the car. It's not bad enough for me to do any aftermarket upgrades though (except to add the IPod adapter to it).
I love the car though--it has a lot of power, seats are great and I think the handling is very sure footed.
The car is a 197 hp turbo 5, acceleration should not be a problem. The price is not outrageous for a low mile CPO car. Doing stereo upgrades is not easy at all. The Prem sound system is a pretty good one.
Thank you guys. I am getting the extended warranty though. I am also glad to here that there is no problem with the acceleration. I am off to the dealership.
Some one said they had been driving in stop and go traffic. When they got to the side streets to get home the to car would not move. This was probably their fault. I did read later that they were very low on gas and the saddle tank fuel pump was not working.
Sorry to be so ignorant, but where/how does one access this "hidden equalizer", or is this just a joke? I assume you are not referring to the bass/treble knob. I have an '04 AWD with the standard (HU-6xx) radio. Disappointed in the radio, but the car is awesome in the snow... Thanks for any explanation you can provide.
Is there a button to engage automatic door locks on the Volvo S60? I'm not talking about child safety locks, but I want the doors to lock when I put the car in gear or take off and I just bought this car, and I'm having to manually lock the doors.
if you just bought the car, the dealer should be able to make the change (vadis) as part of the adjustment period. I had it done on my s80 and they work great. It locks the car at about 10mph.
I presume that you just press the master lock button? You don't have to lock each door separately - a rear door that would be a problem. On my other car, a BMW, I de-actived the auto-lock feature. I prefer to lock myself thank you very much! I am familiar with carjackings and have had a number of relatives shot and my best friend killed so there is no way I want to be locked in a car on take-off when most vulnerable.
Anyone ever notice their driver's seat rocking on an S60? Mine's an '02 2.4T. When accelerating or under hard braking, you can really feel the seat move. (power seat) I've experienced this somewhat on a V70, but not as much. Next stop - service dept. Thought I'd check here first... I appreciate any comments!
Shouldn't rock, I've got an 03 s80 and I'm 6'5", 240 lbs, seat doesn't move at all and I've had a couple of cars that the seat did move so I know what you mean.
I was very excited when I heard this but am unable to get it to work on an 05 T5 w/ the base stereo. Clues?
TIA,
Jason
PS: just got the iPod hook-up. Sweet- the EQ on the iPod carries through to the stereo. Having the iPod controls run through the stereo makes it almost worth the steep install price. (275 if you have satellite radio prep.)
I think the radio in the 05 is different than early radios. You have individual buttons for memory stations where the earlier units have a single knob that you turn for presets. I think i remember reading that the hidden features aren't available on the newer radios.
I was wondering if anyone else has noticed something like this: On my'04 S60 AWD, I notice the throttle tip-in can be rather abrupt. If I am really careful and really light on the throttle, then take-off from a stop can be smooth. But for the most part, it's feels at first almost nothing, then it's too strong. It can get irritating at times. I also find if you need to hit it quick, there is a split second delay, then it goes. I realize this is an electronic set-up, not a cable; is this normal, or can it be reprogrammed? It's been this way since new. I would appreciate other people's experiences with their cars before I go to the dealer. Thanks!
I need some advise. I recently purchased a 2003 S60 2.4T - Premium Package with 107,000km from a local dealership in Ontario. While I'm getting the 5yr/160,000km dealer warranty as part of the deal (expires Apr 2008) they are now trying to up sell with other "goodies". Apparently the vehicle never had dealer rustproofing/undercoating before it went on the road initially. They are now offering this to me at $399 + taxes (discount to dealer cost of $599 = taxes. Mileage is primarily highway, and the interior (taupe) of the car is in immaculate condition. The exterior is relatively clean (black) with the numerous stone chips on the front end - I'm guessing the previous owner lived in the country and drove on a gravel road. The dealership will be buffing out as many of the chips as possible. The dealership is trying to sell the rustproofing/undercoating on the strength that it will help deter rust forming on the underside of the vehicle. I'm not too sure about this argument reasoning that the underside as already been exposed to the both the winter (snow and salt) elements and stone chips and an application at this point wont help matters and doesn't seem whortwhile. Can I get others thoughts on this issue. Thanks.
p.s. I need to get back to them quickly on this issue and a quick response would be appreciated. Thanks.
Thanks - I had thought about the turbo, but that really didn't make sense because the RPMs are too low; besides, I can feel the "tug" as the turbo spools up shortly thereafter (I like that!). I was thinking it might be due to the electronic throttle (might be that plus programming for emissions). I think I'll drive another one and see if it's the same way.
Thanks for the feedback. In respect to the stone chips on the front end of the vehicle is this something that a qualified body/paint shop can complete without making the job look like a touch up job?
I am coming up for a 60,000 service and I checked with my indy about their diagnostics. They said although they do not subscribe to VIDA they have access to other software (they use a laptop on the shop floor) in order to do diagnostics. They said that it would be an illegal restraint of trade for a manufacturer require their cars to be serviced by a dealer in order to obtain the use of manufacturer generated software.
The motor co's make their software available via subscription. If your shop doesn't want to subscribe, thats fine. But, alot of what goes on in a modern Volvo requires the manufacturers software. So, if they can't or won't get the necessary software from Volvo go somewhere else.
Hello all. New owner of a 2002 S60 T5 (33,000 miles.) Are there major maintenance items I can plan for that aren't presented in the owner's information? For instance, "don't believe that the timing belt will go 105,000" or "the water pump should be replaced at 60,000." thank you.
FYI I have just replaced the timing belt @106K, and according to my mechanic it was OK, so it was the true preventive maintenance. The original water pump is still there. I think, that modern maintenance schedule is rather conservative, and normally, no part require more frequent attention, unless it is truly faulty, and breaks prematurely
Some independent shops service a number of different makes, usually foreign. Is it feasible for these guys to subscribe to say Volvo and BMW and Mercedes and Jaguar and Saab etc etc ? It seems to me that if what you say is true about the software requirements than how do these independent shops stay in business?
mostly, they work on older pre-software cars. There are plenty of old Volvo's, Saab's and bimmers on the road to keep them busy. Some don't want to work on newer cars because of the software issue. Alot of older tech's are not comfortable w/ the newer technology. Some independents bring cars to the dealer to get the software. Of course, they charge their customers.
For a scheduled service such as a 60,000 mile service, if there is nothing actually amiss with the car couldnt an indy service it without the software? As I understand the software is required as a diagnostic tool to figure out how to fix a problem when there is actually a problem. :confuse:
sometimes there are upgrades to the factory software, just like w/ Windows on your pc. Most of the time, you are just replacing worn parts. Just from a peace of mind standpoint I would prefer that major services are done by the dealer.
Comments
how far from Freehold are you? Personally, I stopped going to the dealer altogether when my warranty was up. I found a private shop that specializes in volvos by the name of Pro Vovo (yes, without the L) in Freehold that does great work for MUCH less than the dealer.
It was easy when I used to live in Freehold. Now I live a half hour away, but still take my car there. They are very popular, so, if you want a Saturday appt, call no later than the Monday prior.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I'd certainly buy it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I doubt there is anything that will prevent ice formation.
I've seen people use tarps and cardboard but the results always seem to be that the tarp or cardboard would freeze on the window.
Rain-X asserts that this product will de-ice your windshield at temperatures down to -25F. It will remove 'frost, light snow & ice'. It will repel rain, sleet, snow and ice. Of course it will also perform the rudimentary function of cleaning your windshield.
Directions
Open hood, locate windshield washer reservoir and fill with Rain-X De-Icer Windshield Washer Fluid. Close hood. Clean windshield as needed.
If it actually prevents ice from forming on the windshield, then great.
I only have one past experience with rain-x and it wasn't really a good one. It was many many years ago when it was still fairly new, but i found it left a residue that, under certain conditions, would actually affect visibility. I never heard that complaint from anybody else, so maybe its just me.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
In fairness, I've also see a posts from folks who are happy with it, but you are definitely not the only one to experience what you report.
I used that crud last winter - the orange color stained the paint on the hood. I had to clay it out.
You can't expect to hit a pothole or curb and not do damage to an aluminium wheel.
Since you admit one was your fault, the other must have been as well.
Compalining to a motor co because you damaged the wheels isn't fair.
I am hearing a lot of problems with the accelleration after being in traffic. Is this really common for the 2002's or are those isolated insodents?
Also what is the deal with the stereo? I am a huge music fan and if the 12 speaker system is not great is there problems doing aftermarket upgrades to it?
I am on a time crunch I have to deside in the next 24 hrs if I am getting the care.
The warranty: find out how long (timeframe) you have on the warranty. Mine was a CPO, so the warranty runs until Sept. 2008 (or 100,000, but I won't expire on miles) and then I got a another year's warranty. The repairs on this car are expensive, just like the Audi, so be aware--I'd be loathe to run this car w/o some type of warranty.
Radio: I'm not in love the radio. I do have better sound now that I adjusted with the "hidden equalizer" but I would have preferred the 8xx series HU than the 6xx one that is stock with the car. It's not bad enough for me to do any aftermarket upgrades though (except to add the IPod adapter to it).
I love the car though--it has a lot of power, seats are great and I think the handling is very sure footed.
The price is not outrageous for a low mile CPO car.
Doing stereo upgrades is not easy at all. The Prem sound system is a pretty good one.
Thank you for the great advice
only in America.......
"Folks - I'd really appreciate any help out from anyone.
Thanks in advance I do appreciate it."
Or try picking up the phone and calling the service dept.
I can't help you - I don't own a Volvo.
I have an '04 AWD with the standard (HU-6xx) radio.
Disappointed in the radio, but the car is awesome in the snow...
Thanks for any explanation you can provide.
Try these settings:
Front Low 1: 2
Front Low 2: 3
Front Mid: 4
Front High: 6
Rear Low: 6
Rear Mid: 5
Rear High: 6
Dave
Your dealer would have to program that into the car.
Have your service department check it out,
TIA,
Jason
PS: just got the iPod hook-up. Sweet- the EQ on the iPod carries through to the stereo. Having the iPod controls run through the stereo makes it almost worth the steep install price. (275 if you have satellite radio prep.)
Sorry
p.s. I need to get back to them quickly on this issue and a quick response would be appreciated. Thanks.
Anything dealer applied is useless.
Paint chips can't be buffed out, they can only be filled in.
In some cases you simply have to repaint the hood and front end.
Comments? :confuse:
If your shop doesn't want to subscribe, thats fine.
But, alot of what goes on in a modern Volvo requires the manufacturers software. So, if they can't or won't get the necessary software from Volvo go somewhere else.
I have just replaced the timing belt @106K, and according to my mechanic it was OK, so it was the true preventive maintenance. The original water pump is still there.
I think, that modern maintenance schedule is rather conservative, and normally, no part require more frequent attention, unless it is truly faulty, and breaks prematurely
There are plenty of old Volvo's, Saab's and bimmers on the road to keep them busy.
Some don't want to work on newer cars because of the software issue.
Alot of older tech's are not comfortable w/ the newer technology.
Some independents bring cars to the dealer to get the software. Of course, they charge their customers.
There will still be older cars to work on.
Plus, they will still be able to do oil changes and other minor services.
I don't think I would want someone who wasn't factory trained working on my $30-40,000 highly technical car, but thats just me.
Most of the time, you are just replacing worn parts.
Just from a peace of mind standpoint I would prefer that major services are done by the dealer.