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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Anyone with experience with both the Dodge/Chrysler van and the MPV have a preference? Or should I save my money and buy Toyota?
That being said, if you plan to keep the vehicle to 150,000 mi, don't look at the Dodge/Chrysler product. The best that can be said is that it is almost biodegradable and it could be put in you Blue Box as the van falls apart.
The Mazda has a Ford Duratec engine, probably the best one Ford makes. The Toyota has a good engine also. Some people have issues with the Mazda's horsepower, I have one and find it OK. The Toyota has a bit more pep, but a bit more weight.
If you are new to minivan's, you'll like the MPV. Visibility and handling is more car-like than the Toyota.
Bottom line is, test drive the heck out of both the Toyota and the MPV under your usual driving routes and make the call. Avoid the Chrysler like the plague unless you plan on trading it in at 60,ooo miles, in which case it isn't a bad deal.
A 4X8 sheet won't fit in the MPV, I can't comment on the fit in the Toyota. The one complaint I have on the MPV for cargo space is that with two very small children, by the time I load luggage, toys, bikes, extra diapers, etc for a weekend trip, I've had to fold down the back seat. This makes it difficult to take any extra guests. I can fix it with a bike rack, but I guess I didn't know how much stuff the kids actually would take on a trip if they could.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Vans&t=846
The one thing I do find is that kids consistently like the van. We had to stuff four stranded teenage boys in the MPV yesterday. By the time they were being dropped off they were all wanting an MPV. Imagine that, I wanted (and still do) a red '63 Split Window Corvette.
Well gotta go! I need a Queen Fix. Ohh btw, 3rd eye blinds Jumper is a pretty kewl song in the MPV also.
MSGJVH
Take care.
For me, the difference in the 2 cars came down to visibility. I really felt I could see better out of the MPV, so it was a better car for ME. But some would suggest that the additional power and the Toyota reputation make the Sienna a better choice. To each, his own. (Both have smaller footprints and are thus more maneuverable than the ever-expanding "mini"vans made by competitors.) It seems to fit our family (kids 6 and 8) just fine. And has room for friends and sports equipment.
But we still have the pull. Any advice on what to do next?
You need a drill and a copper plumbing end cap (Lowes Sales# 21728) Drill a 7/32" hole in the end of the copper cap and remove the burrs and shavings that might be hanging around. Now you need to find the large rubber hose between the air filter and the throttle body. From that hose, there should be a hose that is about 3/4" to 1" that attaches to the back of the intake manifold. At the manifold end, the hose is held in place by a spring clamp. Release the clamp and remove the hose from the manifold. Put the copper cap in the hose, with the cap end with the hole, going in first. This will allow you to retrive the cap if you want to put another one in there with a different diameter hole. Reattach the hose to the manifold and you are done.
My idle went from around 1800 RPM's at the first start to around 1100 RPMS's with A/C running. When I put it in gear, it dropped to about 700.
You may need to experiment with different diameter holes depending you your climate. For example, you may need a slightly larger hole for those cold winter mornings, otherwise the engine may stall before it is warmed up.
If this works, you will see a picture from the Contour Enthusiasts Group where I learned this tip. The EGR valve looks different on the Contour, but if you've followed along so far, you probably know what I'm talking about.
TB
Thx!
--javadoc
It doesn't appear to be fooling the vacumm, even though I do expect the vacumm to increase slightly. Instead, it just minimized the amount of air that is allowed to enter the manifold bypassing the throttle body. This path simply takes air around the throttle body, directly to the intake manifold and does not seem to be adjustable by the computer.
From what I understand, it is an emissions thing. Keeping the engine speed up when the throttle is closed allows the computer to compensate for the changes more gradually.
On the automatic transmission vehicles, it just has the effect of reducing cold idle speed.
I suspect the reason we have a fast idle is because the computer sets the fuel trim to a rich value until it detects the engine is warmed up. With the unmanaged path around the throttle body, the engine can draw enough air to increase it's speed. Putting the cap in there just reduces the amount of air the engine gets via this path. The computer will keep the idle high enough with the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve that is part of the throttle body.
Cheers,
TB
As I think about it, if the engine speed is being held artificially high and the transmission shifts, it will be a harsh shift.
So I expect fewer harsh shifts when you lift the throttle. I don't know yet, but that may happen as a result.
Cheers,
TB
Anyone else experience this??
KarenS
Vans host
I have a 2000 MPV LX and have noticed a knocking type of sound. It seems to be coming from the steering column or near there. Naturally when I took the van to the dealer, the sound was not to be heard. It also seems to occur after the van is up to about 50 mph, and most often when the a/c is on. Anyone else heard of such a problem? Otherwise, we love the van. Camped out at the NASCAR race in Michigan two weeks ago. Fold down seat is ideal.
TB
Some people increase the interval between changes when they use synth. Is the service manager against the idea, because he might be missing out on gouging you with some "value-added" services when you come in for an oil change at the dealer?
--javadoc
Assume a do it yourself with Mobil 1 at $4/quart and dino juice at $1.50/quart, filter at $5/each.
Over 5K miles you will need one synthetic change at the following cost.
6 quarts @$4/quart = $24.00
1 filter @$5.00 = 5.00
Total Cost $29 for synthetic.
The cost of a dino juice oil change is:
6 quarts @$1.50/quart = $9.00
1 filter @$5.00 = 5.00
Total Cost $14, but you need 1.67 changes during
the 5k mile period, so the total cost over 5k miles is $23.38.
If you get better fuel economy with synthetic, (some do) then the cost is further offset. If your fuel economy improves by just 1% you will get 50 free miles over the course of the 5k mile period. That is like 2-3 gallons of fuel or easily $2.75 to $4.00
Not to mention what your time is worth.
So what does all of this prove, synthetic is not as expensive as you might think.
If you go to 6K miles between synthetic changes the price difference is about a buck, you don't use as many resources, you generate less waste, yada yada yada.
I even use synthetic in my newly acquired 1987 Buick. It goes about 1600 miles a month, so every three months we've gone through 5K miles. I'd hate to be changing oil every seven weeks. I'll run that out to 12 or 13 weeks and spend that hour with Mrs. TBoner.
TB
KarenS
Vans host
The MPV fared very well in the higher speed front and side crash tests (4 and 5 stars respectively), but did not do so well in the low speed tests where the van is run into a bumper post at 5 mph.
Regards,
JB
I installed a Draw-Tite type III trailer hitch
on my 2000 MVP. It was quite easy to install.
I used a receiver bike rack for our recent vacation and we hit bottom from time to time
mostly from going in and out of driveways, etc.
Has anyone researched the rear strut design
and figured out a suitable aftermarket
replacement that is either adjustable or firmer?
The rear of the MPV simply hangs too low after
you've packed 2 adults, 3 children, and gear.
We now have 20,000 miles on our LX van.
I wish it had a little more power so that the
transmission wouldn't have to shift as often.
The transmission's decision process can be quite frustrating at times. Am I the only one
who feels this way? If so, maybe I should have
my tranny checked out.
Thanks,
Mark cravatts@lucent.com
Take care!
Other common problems with ODYSSEY
Transmission noise at 50MPH (which I have)
Pulling to the right (which I have)
Vibration from 65MPH +
I thought Honda was a good manaufacturer so I paid premium, but I was wrong. I will never buy another Honda.
See Odyssey problems. It's upto sixth iteration.
PS. I am going through Lemon law to get my money back. I will use that money to buy MPV and save myself a $5000.00
Glad I have OBD-II software and an interface for my laptop. Got it through a group buy from the CEG for $97. Pretty much one use and it's paid for itself. Ask you dealer how much to read the codes.
If anyone does set a code after doing the fast idle fix, you can either disconnect the battery, or there may be a fuse for the PCM|ECM memory. Take that fuse out for about 15-30 minutes and put it back in. I like that solution better than the battery because you can keep your radio presets and clock.
Cheers,
TB
Steve
I don't know exactly what you would see upon inspection of the bumper if you just crawl under there and look. (I heard it is a steel reinforcing insert on the back of the bumper.) Maybe you can tell upon inspection.
I am sure Mazda USA customer service can tell you if your mfg date/vin # was fixed prior to shipping. The mfg date is also on the driver's side door frame on the white sticker.
I hope it is done! That would be great for you.
-java
I imagine the air mix actuator is probably a vacumm operated motor that opens or closes a door. This door controls whether your air gets heated or cooled.
Temperature unit, that's like a degree right? Who knows for sure. Probably either some more plastic bits for air to pass through or a sensor.
Don't lose any sleep over it.
Thats the best I can do right now, still a little light headed from playing with my OBD-II software in the garage to see if the new larger hole in the FIF (fast idle fix) is triggering any codes.
None, yet, but the engine was warm when I started.
Cheers,
TB
I thought maybe the temp unit was the reostat (sp) that controled the rear temp, if you had 4Seasons, but I'm guessing. I was just yesterday begging my mechanic for a cd with schematics on it, but he hasn't come through for me. That would tell all.
Other than that, I think it's all flaps, servos and gizmos too, with some whatyamacallitz and doohickies thrown in to keep the EPA happy. Like TB said, don't sweat it, since it's under warranty. It just sounds like some duddy parts, and, as my dad says, "Ford happens."
8-P
--Javadoc
How did you get it for $95 bucks.
It's the tinkerer in me (& I selectively do some post-warranty repairs on my cars as well, time permitting). Also feel it can hep keep Dealers "honest".
Most OBD interface equipment is way to $$$ for home dinkerer...seems prime are for a "shareware-type" solution.
FWIW the engine idle and performance in my van seems fine...hardly worth messin' with for me.
He wrote the software and builds the interface boxes in plastic electrical junction boxes with a serial cable out one end and the OBD-II cable out the other. We got a 40% discount so the $160+ unit worked out to about $97 and I saved him the shipping costs.
Maybe you can convince him you are part of the CEG.
The guys name is Alex Peper and here is the web site: www.obd-2.com
Cheers,
TB
I just thought I would ask to check to see if the dealer knows what he is talking about. I am not sweating it (literally - since I sit in the front usually). It is under the warranty so they can replace all the gizmos, doohikies, watchamacallits on it that they want as long as they don't screw it up or take too much of my time.
Thanks again, gotta go check on my production problem fix (I am a programmer type too dudes).
Oh, btw, I had some type of white film on the outside of the windshield of the MochaVan and Rolf this morning, but it came off mostly with some windshield washer fluid. It eventually melted. Should I call for service? It delayed my morning mocha and bagel run by a few seconds. Anyone else experiencing this? j/k.
--javadoc
Sounds like the MochaVan is starting to turn into the LatteVan.
--jd
Take care.
If you drive 15K miles/year at 15MPG you will burn 1000 gallons of gas, or at a price of about $1.50/gallon, about $1500 worth of fuel. If your fuel economy was 30MPG, you would burn $750/year worth of fuel. That works out to be about $67.50 difference/month. A more realistic comparison is 20MPG vs 15MPG around town. With 20MPG you burn about 750 gallons of fuel for a cost of $1125/year. So monthly the difference between 15MPG and 20MPG is about $31.25
Of course if you drive fewer miles/year the difference is less, if you drive more the difference is more, but you can see why most people are not worried about fuel economy.
TB
Yeah, I know, bug season is about over -- even here on Virginia's Eastern Shore. Trying to plan ahead for possible installation for next spring. I'm not really concerned about mileage impact, since I'm consistently getting minimum of 24 mpg driving around on the flat, rural Shore.