Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

edsofaru · May 2006

user777

Many thanks

. I will give it a try ASAP.

Best Regards
Edgar

esd1 · May 2006

I'm having what I believe is an electrical issue with my 2004 Honda Odyssey. Sometimes the volume control on the steering wheel does the opposite of what is supposed to do (turn it up, it goes down or visa versa). Also when I turn the van on the overhead lights sometime flicker for a minutes. And once the dash button that closes automatically closes the side door didn't close the door. I had to get out and manually close it. This seems to happen most times when the van has been sitting mostly on warm days. Any advice? I took it in last summer for this but it wouldn't "act up" for the mechanic, so he said he couldn't help me. I'm taking it again but I've got to get it fixed, the warrenty is almost up. Any advice?

user777 · May 2006

The volume up/down sounds like a possible problem with the "clock-spring", a device that maintains electrical continuity when the wheel is turned from one limit to the other limit between the wheel mounted controls, and the wiring harness feeding the radio, cruise, horn, airbag.

When your overhead lights are on before you start the van, i would think they'd temporarily dim, or go completely off when trying to start the car. See, the starter pulls a LOT of current when engaging the engine to get it to turn over.

Van sitting on warm days causing a problem with the doors? Never heard of it, but I believe the "window regulators" (motors that move the windows up/down) have temperature protection such that if they meet too much resistance doing their thing and begin to over-heat, they shutdown for a while. Like a window regulator, perhaps a door getting direct sun warms the door motor too much such that it shuts down almost immediately. If that is the case, i'm not sure how you'd replicate it for the technicians. The next time this happens, see if the other door also has a problem. Maybe you have a marginal motor that needs replacing. Perhaps getting them to note it on your records prior to warranty period being up will help you after the warranty period.

dzlpwr7 · May 2006

I have had several sets of the Michelin Symmetry tires on a 95 Odyssey. These tires ride nice and are fairley quite but did not last, down to the wear bars at around 37,XXX miles. Michelin replaced them on a pro rated basis.
I know that the aligment was correct and I do not drive hard or take corners fast. The Symmetry is the worst wearing tire that I have ever had and give Michelin a bad name. My mother in-law has a pair of them on a Toyota Camry and are not wearing well at all.
I now have a 99 Odyssey with a set of Michelin Hydroedge and at 38,XXX miles are wearing so well that they still look like new. These tires give a stiff ride with not so good traction in snow but give outstanding performance in the rain.
I don't mean to discourage you, just sharing my personal experience.

tonfg · May 2006

Hello, did you ever get a reply to your question about how to remove the sliding door panels from your ODYSSEY? I am looking for the same instructions, and have not found an answer. If you have them, could you please post it here? Thank you. J

orlandofl · May 2006

Yes, it should be on. If it's not, the light is burned out. The lights are usually about $5.00 from the dealer.

I just replaced my temperature control light. I know someone that took it to the dealer and was charged $100 for this.

To remove that part of the dashboard, you need to move the shift lever to the 1st gear position. Then, you can just pull the dashboard off.

Disconnect the wires to the interior lights and the temperature controls.

When you turn it over, you'll see 6 round holes in the back. These are for the 3 large and 3 small lights (one of the small lights is labelled 'black')

To remove a light, just use a flathead screwdriver and turn the base of the light counter-clockwise. Try and grasp the light and remove it.

Insert the new bulb, and lock it in place with the flathead screwdriver.

Re-connect the wires, and press the dashboard back into place.

orlandofl · May 2006

Oops, I gave you incomplete instructions...

1. Remove the Center Panel (has temperature control)
- see above instructions.

2. Remove the Driver's Switch Panel (has cruise and TCS control)
- gently pull on the right side (by the steering column)
- then pull on the left side
- disconnect the wires

3. Remove the instrument panel
- remove 8 screws holding the instrument panel
- gently pull the instrument panel off
- disconnect the wires

4. Replace the light bulb
- turn the instrument panel over
- you should see a round hole that contains the light bulb

It may seem light a lot instructions, but if I can do it, anyone can. Check out what the dealer will charge you for doing it, and you may find it worth your while.

orlandofl · May 2006

You should also clean the contacts on the sliding doors with a white pencil eraser.

campalone · May 2006

I have a 2002 Odyssey. I have gone through three passenger side headlamps in last six months. Anyone know why?

robr2 · May 2006

Are you touching the bulb with your fingers when replacing it?

If so, you are transferring oils to the bulb. The high head of a halogen bulb will cause it to basically cook itself with those oils.

jimbosc · May 2006

I have a EX 2000 Ody. Purchased about 1 year ago with 60,000 miles. It is now just short of 90,000 miles. Overall we really like. In that time we had the catalytic converter replaced under warranty. I just had the dealer perform the 90,000 mile service - which included checking 2 CIL codes. One for a bad O2 sensor (I paid for it) and one for the transmission. The dealer did replace the tranmission at no cost (including 3 days in a rental car) - so no complaint there. The prior owner indicated no major issues - but did have the power doors fixed once.

Just a word to the wise. That prior owner installed a trailer hitch. When we looked at the van the first question I asked was what he was towing and if he installed a transmission cooler. He reported the hitch was only used to mount a bike rack so no cooler was needed - and we have never used it for towing. The dealer told me Honda voids the extended warranty IF you have a hitch installed (used or not) - but he was willing to fight for us to get warrenty coverage. Not sure if that was smoke - but I understand the logic if you use your van for towing without the cooler. If you are going in for a suspected transmission issue and have a hitch you can remove - it appears that might be a good idea.

Only other items I have fixed were rear shocks - which were leaking and riding lower than they should (very noticable once the new shocks were installed).

Jim

sderasmo · June 2006

We live in Florida - where when its not hosting a hurricane, it's HOT! Our '99 Odyssey had the same problem with the electric doors - either they would not close all the way or they would close but the sensors thought they were still open. Five visits tot he dealer is what it took. Finally, I was able to video tape an occurance of the sensors going off when the doors were shut.
Turns out there was a problem in the passenger sliding door wiring harness. When the temoperature heated up, metal structural pieces near the harness would expand just enough to pinch the wiring harness and short it out. Honda "re-routed" the wiring harness away from those metal pieces and we have been trouble-free now for over 4 years. Hope this helps.

dad23 · June 2006

Yesterday, one CD and one DVD popped out of the CD player, probably one of our two-and-a-half year old's doings. I tried putting a CD back it and it seems blocked. The light is on indicating a CD already in the player, but hitting eject does nothing and the light goes out. If I hit the CD button, it flashes "LOAD" and then goes back to the radio. Anyone have any experience/ideas with this or should I be heading to the dealer. I can't see anything in there, but did notice a nickel and penny in the cassette deck :surprise:

mommobile · June 2006

I have a 2000 Odyssey with manual sliding doors and have always had problems with the doors sticking. The problem is especially bad after it rains, and if it rains and then gets hot, the doors are impossible to open - we have to crawl in through the front doors. I've had it to the dealer numerous times over the years, but they never seem to be able to fix it (of course they aren't stuck when I go in for the appointment). Has anyone else ever had this problem? Any solutions? The dealers have never done anything more than lube them up and that doesn't help. It has been quite frustrating :mad:

fordf150 · June 2006

Hello,
I am getting ready to walk in your shoes, how did it turn out or has it? Patrick Martin

fibber2 · June 2006

I would suspect that the problem is related to sticking rubber seals than a latch problem, but you were not specific (or perhaps you are not sure??).

Assuming it is rubber adhesion to metal, you need to start out with a thorough cleaning of both the rubber, and the metal surfaces they contact. When everything is clean, go over the metal parts with some car wax, and the rubber with Shin-Etsu grease (Honda parts counter). I have also used Meguires spray rubber & seals treatment, and it works quite well but not for as long.

Now granted, I have an '02 motorized EX, but my doors are smooth, quiet, and squeak/wind noise free when I do this. They get nasty pretty quickly when I neglect them.

Steve

shrewzn · June 2006

when i apply the brake or turn the directional the shift lever light in d4 getting brighter and blinks every once in a while checkes trans fluid it is ok u think thereis a short in the circuit scott

cmabr · June 2006

I had a 2000 Honda Odyssey and a 3 year old. The CD player wouldn't let me put anything in it. I removed the CD player myself, opened it up and found a quarter in it. I removed the quarter, reinstalled everything and it worked just fine. Just be forwarned that if the CD player is removed and reinstalled you may need an anti-theft activation code to get it working again so make sure you have yours.

subuch · June 2006

I posted here in the Fall about my car just cutting out at random. We would come to a light or pull away from one and the engine would quit and all lights would come on. We were worried about this happening on the freeway etc. Anyway people suggested the idle etc and I know that others had similar problems. Well here is the scoop-yesterday my drive indicator started flashing as I was driving. The car had cut out without warning about 10 days ago. Then last week the battery died and I had to have it replaced (it was 5 years old). The flashing drive signal finally solved the problem. There was a faulty pressure switch in the transmission which was working sporadically hence the engine quitting. So if you are having this problem, have them check the pressure switch. Hopefully this has solved my problem.

rik1 · June 2006

I know these problems have been brought up before, but I've never seen this version. My 2000 Ody has 72,000 miles and the CEL is on constantly for the past couple of months. The TCS light only goes on when I'm on the highway and traveling over 60mph. The TCS light will reset itself when the engine is shut off and won't go back on until I go over sixty again. About two years ago I had the EGR recall/service done on my van, but I don't think this is the same thing. I seem to remember in that instance that both lights stayed on together. I'm taking it to my local mechanic to have it looked at and see what code is being generated(someone else had checked the error code and said it was a transmission code but couldn't remember which one). Hoping its nothing major but I'll see next week. If anyone has any info, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Rick

rkloewy · June 2006

I imagine someone has responded by now that because of problems like the one you're having, Honda extended the factory warranty on 2000 and 2001 Odysseys (as well as a few Acura TL models) to 7 years/100,000 miles. The problem you describe is a classic indication of transmission failure.

http://world.honda.com/news/2002/4020920.html

Good luck

blendeng · June 2006

Hello, hopefully someone can help me. I have a 1999 Odyssey LX and recently I have been hearing strange noises in my front brakes. When I brake, I first hear a squeal sound followed by a rapid flapping sound. It sounds like the antilock brakes kicking in, however, the light in my dash did not go on. I brought it to a mechanic and he shaved my brakes, but I still hear it. This happens when I go down a hill at 25 mph and start breaking slowly or even when I drive about 40 mph and start pressing on my breaks slowly and evenly. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I was planning to drive this car w/ my family but now have second thoughts.

Thanks.

robr2 · June 2006

That sounds more like the rear drum brakes - they make a horrid sound when they need replacing.

blendeng · June 2006

Thanks robr2 - Is this dangerous?

robr2 · June 2006

Probably not - it's just the sound that's scary.

I had a sound like that about 4 years ago - step on brakes and hear "squeal, squeal, squeal, grind, groan".

Have them checked out.

nzorro · July 2006

Help, I have 1999 Honda Odyssey and I am having the same problem. The sluggish eninge feel is constant and the check engine light is always on, it flashs sometimes. Can you tell me what was the problem with your car.

user777 · July 2006

sounds like a clogged EGR valve or port.

nzorro · July 2006

The EGR valve was changed recently. The dealer told me that it was the spark plugs. They are going to change them then see what happens. My car is due for new spark plugs anyway, it has 179,000 KM.

nyip · July 2006

Hi Blendeng,
I have a 2002 Odysse and recently I had a similar noise problem with my brake. After driving for awhile with many stops, the brake would produce a rubbing/??? noise when I brake to a stop. The noise is difficult to describe. It was not metal grinding noise. Anyway, my mechanic told me that it is normal with the OEM part. The material builds up heat faster that produce the sound. An alternative is to replace it with a semi-metallic pad. Semi-metallic pad would wear out the rotor faster and may produce squeaking sounds when braking. I decided to use it, after 50 miles with the new Bendix semi metallic pad, so far no problem. I hope this would solve my problem and may be it will help yours too. Good luck.

pixman123 · July 2006

Well... glory. Just purchased a 2003 EXL with 47K miles from a small used car dealer. First full day we had it the CEL came on. Next day TCS light comes on. TCS is off when first cranking engine. Comes on and stays on a mile later. Had auto store pull codes. They show P1491 which seems to be an EGR problem and P1457 which appears to be a leak in the EVAP system. I know earlier models had a problem with EGR and Honda extended the warranty on them, but I don't think that applies to 2003. Gas cap was on tight and has been cycled through 5 or 6 times. I'll call the dealer tomorrow but I don't think this guy will be any help. My guess is that they cleared the computer before I bought it. Any suggestions?

77porsche · July 2006

Hello Everyone-

Regarding this "grinding" noise, I just purchased a 2006 Odyssey and less than 100 miles I've noticed this "grinding" noise too. I term it as a "mechanical engagement or release" with feedback felt thru the accelerator pedal. I just took the car to a local Honda dealer and reproduced the sound for them. The service manager then drove the van and reproduced the same noise. Before driving in the van, the service manager advised me that Honda Odyssey ABS calpers, etc are making noises wherein owners are caught off-guard by this. However, after driving my EX model, he stated it was a noise he NEVER heard before. I think it is quite ODD that the "feedback" would be felt thru the accelerator pedal. For me, this "issue" always occurs after I start the engine, and when the speed reaches 11 mph. Thereafter, having come to a stop light or sign, and reaching 11 mph and up, there is no indication or "issues" of any sort whatsoever. My gut instinct tells me that it is something engaging and then releasing as a routine operation, but it is odd that it occurs only on some vans. I think all vans do this, just that the "feedback" is more apparent on some and not others.

Another "noise" issue I've detected is a "low-popping" noise when creeping thru a parking lot or street. From my experience, it is due to the struts. Either the struts themselves, the mounting, or bearings.

The dealer is going to look into the two issues. I will let you all know what they say.

By the way, I live in SoCal, and the EX model was purchased for $24K, thus $26,200 out the door.

Best of luck to you all!

77porsche

maddog · July 2006

I had a similar problem on my '99. Turned out that the rubber bump stops at the upper rear end of the door openings had deteriorated so they resembled bubblegum. Replaced them and all is well. (Easy to do and the parts are dirt cheap).

Also went over the rubber seals with silicone grease.

user777 · July 2006

I think the 2003 was covered in the TSB Honda issued for the EGR valve and port.

i think you can search this forum for messages related to EGR.

look at message 5912; even if your VIN doesn't fall into the range, seems like it may apply.

pixman123 · July 2006

Update. Dealer said all codes and TCS light due to EGR which WAS covered by 8 year 80,000 mile extended warranty coverage. My VIN was not in previously posted range so I was a little concerned. All is well now.

dab777 · July 2006

I have a 1995 Honda Odyssey with about 150,000 miles on the vehicle. Recently when going from Park to Drive, the light in the shifter indicating what gear you are in started blinking. Also the car took longer than usual to go from 2nd to 3rd. The blinking and balking appear to be worsening. Any ideas.

dcguy3 · July 2006

I think I might have the same problem as you. I have a 2000 Odyssey EX with 79,100 miles. The check engine light comes on all the time. The TCS light comes on once a while, but not every time. The engine is somewhat sluggish and it would choke at 5000 rpm at Park or Neutral. I took my car to Herson Honda in Maryland this morning. Just got a call from the service advisor that my transmission needs to be replaced. It will be covered under extended warrantee. I asked him if this could be related to the EGR valve as I read many discussion on the check engine TCS lights. He said the code (which I don't know) says it is the transmission problem. He ordered a remanufactured transmission and it should come in next Monday. The car still drives fine except the engine is sluggish and would choke at 5000 rpm. He insisted that it was not the EGR valve failure after I asked him a couple more times. He said that he would certainly find out if the check engine warning light is still on after he replace the transmission???

rduel · July 2006

I took my 02 Ody in for the 105,000 mile service. I mentioned to them it seemed like it took longer to shift from 1st to 2nd, otherwise no other problem. Service writer says no way to check for proper rpms at shift points. That seems odd to me that they can't check that. Also, in response to my question about honoring the 100K tranny warranty, if mine goes at 105k or so, his response was: it's up to factory, besides, if it hasn't failed by now it most probably won/t. That's comforting! Also, service writer says they replace the water pump along with the timing belt at 105K. I thought they just inspected it at that service. Anyone else have it replaced also?

dsrtrat2 · July 2006

It's economics. The labor for the timing belt would be duplicated to replace the water pump later. Call it preventive maint. as it will cost a lot less now than it will later.

shoppershelley · July 2006

I also have an 02 Odyssey with 96K miles that was having transmission problems. They did the visual inspection of the transmission per the recall and found no issues in 8/05. Four months later in December, my transmission began to act up in the lower gears. They claimed my VIN number was not part of the recall for a new transmission, but after a call to American Honda, they called back and agreed to replace the entire transmission at no charge. I was ecstatic with the news, considering i was told by my service advisor that it would cost me over $4000 for a rebuilt transmission.

master1 · July 2006

I remember how those 2001 and 2002 Odyssey's had terrible transmission problems. Is your transmission allright now?

Check me out!
http://www.carspace.com/master1

rbell2 · July 2006

We have an '03 Ody EXL we purchased new and it now has about 55,000 miles on it. We have had no problems and had the transmission recall service done where they upgrade the flow of transmission fluid to certain parts of the transmission (this was done about 2 years ago). We have had zero problems.

My question is . . . . Does anyone know if the '03 version has been better than prior years with respect to engine/transmission reliability? Does anyone know if my transmission were to go out on me if Honda is pretty much picking up the bill on transmission failures prior to 100,000 miles?

Any info or personal experiences out there would be greatly appreciated. I am trying to decide if I should buy an extended engine warranty or just roll the dice for 3-4 more years. Thanks!

cwalti · July 2006

...sorry I misspelled some words in the earlier posting...

Hello I just wanted to tell everyone that HONDA really backs up their product.
I just had the trans replaced a power door-lock (slider driver) and replaced the ignition interlock on a van that is OVER 7 years old and has almost 80,000 miles on the odo. No hassle, no BS just yes sir we will repair this under Honda's warranty service. I never bought an extended warranty either. I will drive nothing but Hondas from now on and I will most likely buy them at Norm Reeves in Cerritos SoCal!!!!

Sidenote, - I had a lincoln continental, blew the trans at 72K, the motor at 75K and the suspension at 80Kmls. Ford told me to go fly a kite every time! Guess what? -- I dissuaded at least three peoples from buying a ford product, but have swayed at least six peoples to buy Hondas. I have three Hondas: a '91 Accord, a '99 Odyssey, and an '05 CR-V...
And I really want to add an Element to the list... :-)

sbpceap · July 2006

I notice that in my '03 Ody, the transmission fluid filler bolt apparently has some sort of bracket blocking access to it. I don't think that was a smart design. If you want to add fluid or change fluid, what trick is there? Has anyone overcome this problem? Can you just add fluid into the dipstick tube? If anyone can advise, I'd much appreciate it.
:confuse: ">

goochy · July 2006

The dealer admits to transmission problems for the '99-'01 Odys but claims the early Izuzu/Odys do not have problems. I've heard rumours otherwise from my mechanic. What do others know about this?

In 3 weeks our 1996 Ody with 150K will be towing (for the first time) a small tent trailer. Due to my mechanics opinion and the fact that I just mailed off our last car payment, am I tempting fate?

Thanks!

master1 · July 2006

I don't think you should have a problem as long as you took proper care of your car. Your car was made it Japan right? If it was, and you properly maintain your car, it should be fine.
------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.carspace.com/master1

aldo5 · July 2006

Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the bracket (and electrical connector) and move the bracket to the side. Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the black transmission line to the top of the transmission. Remove the line from the transmission and refill/add fluid there. Normally, there is just a filler plug there, but Honda added the bracket/line during a recall to aid in better cooling/cleaning of 2nd or third gear.

jonesperson · July 2006

Our 2002 Odyssey has a rather dull buzz that can be heard through the radio (without using headphones) and is extremely loud in the OEM wireless headphones when used. The noise occurs when listening to AM/FM/CD/Tape/DVD it doesn't matter what medium.

Symptoms:
- Start vehicle (no buzz)
- Run vehicle for about 5 to 10 minutes and buzz gradually starts up in radio without headphone use and in wireless headphones and becomes constant
- Buzz is so loud in headphones you can't hear anything but the buzz
- Turn radio off, buzz stops in headphones and radio without headphone use
- Turn vehicle off, but leave radio on, buzz slowly disappears in radio and headphones almost as if something in the engine is winding down that causes the buzz to go away.
- Turn vehicle on within about 5 minutes of turning it off and buzz immediately starts.
- Again noise is just enough to be annoying through the radio (without headphones), but it renders the wireless headphones useless once it starts (that is all you can hear in them)

Any thoughts on this one? :confuse:

user777 · July 2006

if the sound were made by the engine, immediately after turning off, i would expect the electrical interference to go away.

i'm thinking a radiator fan motor problem. does the sound go away slowly as the radiator fan stops running, perhaps after the engine is shut off?

then when the fan starts up again after the engine is warmed up, does the noise return?

get out of the car when it's idling and see if the sound is there and coordinated with the fan running.

grandtotal · August 2006

A lot of people add fluid through the dipstick tube. I know that sounds bad but it actually works better than you might think. Find some plastic tube that is a tight fit over the dipstick and attach the other end to a funnel. It's easier than disturbing the recall plumbing.

sbpceap · August 2006

Thanks, GrandTotal and Aldo5. So THAT'S what is blocking the filler bolt: the recall plumbing! I tried the technique suggested about filling the tranny thru the dipstick tube, and it worked great! -Gary

Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Honda Odyssey: Problems &amp; Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)