Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
edited March 2014 in Honda
Here's the new place to continue seeking Town Hall
members' advice/support for Honda Odyssey
problems. For links to past discussions, please
see Honda Odyssey Links.


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  • yewlockyewlock Member Posts: 4
    Hi everybody,
    I had lost one of my remote keyless entry for my
    EX. Do anybody know how much is the replacement
    cost? Do I had to bring my van and the other remote entry to the Honda dealer so they can reprogram the new remote keyless entry? Thanks.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To dylanrn10..
    [and others with similar problems]:

    Do You have a LX or an EX?

    You probably know what you meant to say, but did not say so. There is no 'defroster' for the front windshield. There is only a "defogger". Defroster is at the back only (cross wires on glass).

    LX - you have to control the heat level and fan speed manually. EX - (if you have it) you probably have already set a comfortable heat level, and based on the temperature within the vehicle (as reported to PCM via temperature sensor on steering column) fan will, on full automatic, revolve correspondingly. To override, you must use the fan speed dial, to your preference.

    Everyone knows that fogging is caused by moisture breathed out by people entering the vehicle on a cold day, and/or atmospheric moisture entering vehicle when doors are opened. Made worse by us trying to heat up the vehicle faster by pressing 'recir' button (which is not incorrect, though). Defogger essentially routes in air, heated, via the heater core. Enough heat evaporates the moisture/fog within the vehicle.

    The trick to quick defogging is using the a/c, since the a/c works as a de-humidifier as well. On EX, pressing the defogger button does three things automatically. Air is directed fully towards the windshield plus the front door panel vents to clear the side glasses, a/c will come on automatically and last, fresh air is drawn into the vehicle (recir light will go off, if it was on). If you have a crowd of excitable party kids in the vehicle pouring out lots of moisture, you can (initially) leave the rest of the system on automatic, but manually override the fan speed to a more slower and silent level.

    If you have LX and your fan speed does not increase with each increment of the switch upto max speed, then your fan speed switch has failed. If your defog button does not direct 95% air to the windshield, then your vent control module has failied. These items will have to be replaced by dealer.

    If you have LX and defog button and heat level are set, to aid defogging, press a/c switch to on till everything clears. Once the vehicle is warmed up and you use other switches (front vents or feet) to re-route warmed air, cycling the a/c once in a while will remove any built up moisture. Remeber that in any air vent position, some air is always directed towards the front windscreen.

    If yours is EX and, in full auto, if the fan does not increase in speed as you dial in temperature, then your fan speed potentiometer has failed. This needs to be changed. Note that fan speed is tied into temperature control. If you constantly keep the temperature control on high, you are going to have high fan speed unless you override it manually. (Same thing in hot weather with a/c. The colder you want the vehicle, the higher the fan will run. Dial in temp closer to ambient and the fan speed slows down).

    Check everything out. If you need more diagnostics, post your findings. Thank God your dealer did not design this vehicle; you might have to drive looking out of your side windows.

    Good luck and careful driving.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Reposer...
    and others with this problem:

    I have not tested the '01 but found out something strange with the '99.

    ALWAYS leave the cabin lights control switch (full on/door-open on/full off) in the same position when opening and closing your sliding doors. WHY??

    Once, with the switch off, I opened the right slider. I then put the switch into door-open position. When I closed the slider, it would try to close, beep, retract half inch, stop beeping and not close fully. You can see the gap front and back of door. Thought I had another problem on my hands. Actually left door that way to attend to some urgent work. On returning sat and re-though my actions when closing the door. Suddenly struck me that I changed the switch position. I opened the door. Put switch back to 'off' and walla, the door just slid into place like nothing had happened.

    Your problem Reposer, in my opinion, needs to go back to the dealer. But before that; how many times does this happen, what frequency, intermittent or continuously for a period of time? Next, just make sure no grime is preventing the control cylinders from moving freely. These are on the inside of the door and make contact on the frame.

    Note that these are contact switches. By looking at the 'knock' point on receiving edges you or the dealer should be able to verify if they are in alignment.

    I am of the opinion that your contact assembly is not properly aligned. Cannot imagine it being identical on both sides, but your post does not mention if the exact same thing happens with both doors at the same time. Or, if it is with both the doors or just one door.

    Again, be patient and persistent. Dealer services are scared to go near anything electronic. They try brushing it off. They will stall you, waiting for the regional tech to make his monthly visit. Your situation also tells me a trouble code could be set, so have the dealer extract it (if that one or others exist in the PCM). The doors fully closing is good. Beep going off and not coming on again when switch turned on means the PCM could/is emulating 'fail safe mode'. Chances are the door is not likely to open by itself and anyway, it is deactivated when the vehicle is taken out of Park. If you are concerned with driving the vehicle till you see the dealer, a second safeguard is to lock all doors when driving. That prevents the unlatch mechanism from cycling.

    Get it seen to and fixed as soon as you can. Post your results. Till then, safe driving.
  • crodysseycrodyssey Member Posts: 4
    Just bought a new 01 EX. Is there a way to open the power doors with the van in gear? Seems the only way to open them is when the van is in 'Park'. I tried to let my kids hop out of the ODY in front of store...avoiding the hassle of parking. Had to throw it in 'park' for them to get out. Not a big deal...but will take some getting used to! Thanks
  • brianinohbrianinoh Member Posts: 20
    You are correct. The only way to open the power sliders is to have the van in park. That is a safety feature. It is probably a good idea to have the vehicle in park when people (especially kids) are getting out in case your foot slips off the brake.

    I seem to remember that a while back, someone proposed changing the wiring for the doors to permit them to open while the vehicle was in gear but not in motion. Also seem to remember much debate as to whether that modification was wise.
  • bozobearbozobear Member Posts: 4
    How does 2001 Odyssey compare with your 1999 so far? Appreciate your detailed explanations in past postings.
    Did i understand correctly that you traded 99 for an 01?
  • toyotafantoyotafan Member Posts: 3
    Regarding discussion of break in periods for vehicles. I took a really conservative approach with my Ody and used the Toyota break-in method, which is similar to Honda but with the added stipulation that the speed should be kept under 55 mph for the first 1,000 miles. Possibly overkill, but Toyota is known for reliability, and mine have amazingly good. Not real easy to do on the highway though.

    Interestingly, I once asked the manager of the Toyota engine factory in KY how he would break in an engine, and he said "I just drive 'em without worrying about it". Not the answer I was expecting.

    Also, somewhere I heard that Mercedes-Benz does, or used to maybe, tell owners to change the AT fluid after the first 1,000 miles. The break in period supposedly puts a lot of fine metal particles in the fluid and should be removed. Important? Who knows. I do it to be on the safe side. To get most of it out, I drain it, fill it, drive it, three times. When I saw what was on the magnetic drain plug--basically a lot of fine metal--sort of a mud, I felt like it was a good thing to get that out of the transmission.

    I also put the Honda trans cooler on my van. It's not really a difficult job, although a little scarey taking the bumper cover off. I think the dealers only charge about an hour labor to do the job. The transmission gets so hot under normal use, I'm guessing that going over mountains, and/or driving a heavily loaded vehicle makes it even hotter. These vans are heavy to begin with, so I want that transmission to stay in normal temp range. Toyota puts a trans cooler on virtually all their Sienna LEs, so once again I took their approach.
  • yfyuyfyu Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Odyssey LX for a month now. Couple days ago, I sat on the 3rd row bench seat while my wife was driving, the seat back came out with noise and sound like the spring inside the seat back is lose and broken. Did anyone in this forum has any exprience on similar problem? Any info is highly appreciated.
  • alingaling Member Posts: 598
    For the past few years, all MB vehicles have had automatic transmissions that require no fluid changes...ever! The stuff that is in there is designed to last for life under a variety of extreme conditions.

    Even the oil change interval in MBz vehicles from MY1998 onwards is extended from a minimum of 10K miles to a maximum of 20K miles; there is a computer monitoring a variety of parameters (engine load, driving style, temperature, oil qualtiy/viscosity etc.) and will adjust the flexible service system counter as needed.

    Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
  • olmanwifnoteefolmanwifnoteef Member Posts: 3
    Just an update to inform that my dealer replaced the Firestones on my 2000 LX with the EX Michelins to correct the shimmy issue. Firestones were balanced twice and 4 wheel alignment was performed. I'm happy to say that the new Michelins are much quiter and provide a much smoother ride, however I'm not happy to report that the shimmy still exists at around 68 MPH.

    Look like it's time to go after those EX wheels next.......I'm spending more time driving rentals than I am driving my van....... ;-(
  • dlh2dlh2 Member Posts: 18
    Got a call yesterday from Honda in Canada wanting to follow up on the comments I wrote on the Honda Survey. Like most of us, at the time I received the survey and filled it out I had not had the van very long and did not have many miles on the van. (Though I did complain about cabin noise, lousy stereo and a rattle in the driver's side sliding door.) Told her that they could learn a lot more about their product by monitoring the Edmunds Town Hall Ody Van topics because this is where we go to discuss likes, dislikes and problems after having lived with our vans awhile. I also told her I thought this should be required reading for the Honda engineering groups. Although I have not experienced any major problems with my van yet-knock on wood-like electrical, sliding doors, pull to the right, transmission, AC, shimmy, etc., it's my impression that these problems are the result of poor design or engineering of specific parts, or OEM parts suppliers quality control and not build quality of the van itself. Still, there's plenty of room for improvement. So, Honda if you are listening, in the next generation Ody I would like to see fold and flip center seats for easier entry to third seat, better back up lights, A telescoping steering wheel, more rearward travel in passenger seat, less cabin noise, a decent sound system, a fold down tray for the center seats like the one in front, glove box light, and body side moulding that actually prevents dings!
  • mdrobishmdrobish Member Posts: 2
    I have Odyssey 2000, and I had it for about 14 months. Currently, the mileage of my van is around 17,000. About a month ago, my wife and I began to experience hearing loud "thunk"" and grinding noise from the van. The noise occurs only when I drive at the speed between 0 to 30 mph; especially when it is down-shifting. Rescently, the problem has even become bigger. Sometimes, when I try to break to stop, the van "jerks" back and forth. I can also feel the vibration coming from some resistance.

    The problems that I have don't occur always, but occur frequently enough. If I drive the van for 30 minutes, I can pretty much guranteed that the problem will occur.

    I think that my van is having a problem with the transmission. However, when I took it to a Honda dealer for service, they told me that they didn't find any problem with my van. They also told me that I am the first person ever to report any problem with the transmission, or like as I discribed.

    I am taking it to a Honda service again next week.

    Does anyone have a similar experience? And, how serious is my problem? I am bit concerned because my wife drives the van with two kids who are only 3 and 1 year old.

  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Alexmish:

    That's okay. I know it is difficult to tell rpm from the tachometer.

    Not only for transmission break-in, but for everything else, do, do work each and every gadget and if it pertains to drivetrain, at different speeds. Don't stop using cruise-control. In fact, use it as often as you can, and if the intercity roads have moving but slow traffic, use it there also but carefully. This will break in the cruise modulator. Try holidng cruise from its lowest speed setting (30mph) up to your normal highway speeds. Only thing, don't keep it extended for >20 miles at one setting.

    Your accelerating rpms are just fine. 70mph max for a little time longer will help both engine and transmission. On your upcoming trip, on a mountain road, maintain a constant speed and unless you come across a really slow vehicle, resist the urge to floor the gas and overtake at high speed.

    Yes, transmissions take the worst beating. Read posts of just about any manufacturer, including the costliest vehicles, and the crowning problems are transmissions.

    Glad to be of help. I will assist any way I can, other than having my own repair shop.

    Keep my notes when checking your wheels. At the outset I don't want the dealer to make things worse. Front wheel alignment is as tough as it can get.

    Safe Driving.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Alexmish...
    and others

    Just forgot something.
    I have practiced this for 25 years and it has appreciably helped to extend transmission life.
    I have substantiated this with my transmission mechanics, but a dealership service or general garage may not be able/willing to do so.

    When stopped at an intersection or in long standing lines of rush-hour traffic, expecially at night with lights on and/or (at any time) with a/c on, for >15 seconds, put the vehicle in Neutral (and keep your foot on the brake) [Anticipate traffic movement]. This will help the engine to rev under no load, keeping its cool and conserving fuel. The transmission clutches will also be disengaged and the torque converter will idle giving the fluid a chance to cool. You will get longer life from the guts of your transmission.

    Factory dynamometer tests are done under 'no-load' conditions. It is a free-standing run with no vehicle weight to pull. Break-in is therefore necessary, and if possible, with no extra weight, like when travelling.

    At every fuel stop lock the gas cap and let it click five or more times. '01 models have a vapour recovery system that should eliminate having to click the lock three times (but I am waiting for more information on this fix).

    Take care.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Member Posts: 1,739
    Add to your next gen. list all the controls should be lighted, like power windows, locks, controls on steering wheel, the gear shift fixed so it don't block the controls, lighted garage door opener buttons, lights on the drink holder so you can see where to replace your drink in the dark. Maybe we need to start a topic on updating the Odyssey? What do you think Karen?
  • brianinohbrianinoh Member Posts: 20
    A long, long time ago, we had a thread dedicated to suggested improvements for the Odyssey. How long ago was it? The name of the thread referred to what we thought should appear on the 2000 Odyssey....
  • alingaling Member Posts: 598
    I'll forward your posts to Karen and see what happens.

    Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
  • yeungsyeungs Member Posts: 1
    I am seeing numerous posts regarding the check engine light coming on. I used to own a Honda and had the same problem. After just 3000 miles on the car, the light would come on and go off just before a trip to the dealer. It took them at least 12 attempts to fix the problem (don't really know how many after that because I got fed up and sold the car). They replaced numerous oxygen sensors, harnesses, computer, etc. but in the end I was not totally convinced that they knew how to fix this problem

    Just hope that those of you who has this problem does get it resolved.
  • alexmishalexmish Member Posts: 47
    To 2k1odyssey and et al.

    Just took my 01 EX to service guys and they found higher-than-normal and different tire pressure on all 4 wheels (stupid me for not checking it myself). They said that the pressure was as high as 50 psi on one of the wheels. After equalizing the pressure on all wheels to 32psi, the car handles perfectly and there is no more pull, as well as steering wheel looks straight. Also, the pulling to the right when accelerating has also dimished greatly and is insignificant at this point - they said it is normal since axles have different lenght on each side of the van. The ride became much softer and quieter. I think that 32psi is a bit below mfr suggested 35psi, so I will increase it to 33-34psi.

    As to squeaking driver's side inside door handle - they removed the door cover and lubricated "rod to latch clip". The squeaking is gone.

    Now I am very happy with the van and, barring future issues, my faith in Honda cars has been restored. Happy driving everyone.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Yes, I do remember that discussion, but I've been unable to find it in the archives. :-(

    Still, since this would concern upcoming Odyssey models, a new topic would be appropriate.


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  • sfearingsfearing Member Posts: 31
    I thought that was interesting how alexmish's tires were all different pressures. When my van was delivered they had 45psi all around. It was built in Nov.1999. I picked it up in W. VA with temps in the 30's - must've been cold in Canada when it was built or the dealer must've fooled with it!
  • johnnyrfjohnnyrf Member Posts: 65
    Here is a new (rather minor) problem with our '99 EX Odyssey: 1 of the 4 plastic end caps on the roof rack has disappeared. I noticed that this trim piece was loose awhile back, (along with the other 3). Anybody else notice this? Checked my friend's Ody; his caps are also loose.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    This is not a new problem. It just hasn't been mentioned in a while. Honda has a service bulletin on how to permanently fix this. Perhaps, Trevor could post it.
  • alexmishalexmish Member Posts: 47
    I meant was "not" driven for 3 hours prior to the measurement. Sorry.
  • alexmishalexmish Member Posts: 47
    I am just wondering how we should be measuring the tire pressure. The manual says that it should be 35psi on "cold tires" - which means on a car which was driven for 3 hours prior to the measurement. On another note, outside temperature and whether a given tire is exposed to direct sunlight will make difference as well. This morning my tires showed 30psi, then in afternoon 33psi on "cold", and after driving 36psi.

    So, is it 35psi when a tire is "cold" and the outside temperature is 70F or outside temperature 25F ???

    Does anyone have chart(s) of tire pressures vs. outside temperature vs cold/hot tire ?
  • sfearingsfearing Member Posts: 31
    Yes, "cold tire pressure" means before driving a mile or so and after (so I heard) 6 hours. Best time to check is in the morning. Adjust it to 35psi whether 70 or 17 degrees.
  • bschwarzbschwarz Member Posts: 1
    I just past the 1K mile point of my '01 EX Navi. I have two questions. First, I have read in other ODY posts talk about the speedometer not being accurate. Could someone elaborate? Also, I am having trouble with my Fuel gauge. I reads less than 1/4 tank when the is still has 10 of the twenty gallons left. Any Advice? Other than the list of shortcomings from dlh2 I am enjoying the vehicle. Knock on wood.
  • bluffbluff Member Posts: 6
    I have a '99 ex w/ 33k miles - my gas guage almost
    never shows completely full, even when I top it off, the reading is about 1/8 tank down. BUT sometimes it does go to the top of the gauge. It's almost like the float was sticking in the tank, but not always! Also re: the spedo accuracy, at 60 to 70 mph its exactly 4-5 mph less. I've used a GPS and this is about the norm all the way to 85 (so you're really doing 79-80).
  • alexmishalexmish Member Posts: 47
    To 2k1odyssey et al,

    When I went to service my O1 EX last Friday and mentioned the fuel tank issue (can not fit more than 14 gals when empty light comes on), the service manager said that his computer indicates tank capacity at 17 gals, wondering whether the manual is incorrect or he is just trying to ignore the issue.

    My 3 other friends who also own Ody indicated the same issue with their cars.

    Maybe the car really has 17-gal fuel tank. Then, a 3 gal reserve is a norm. Does 2k1odyssey has exact dimensions of the fuel tank - we all can do the math, right ?
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    I have 70k on my 99EX, and I've never put in more than 19.7 gallons on a fillup; but I have done it on more than one occasion. Maybe the gas pump was fraudulent. *:o))
  • mtsangmtsang Member Posts: 70
    I have a 99 EX that had the same problem of the fuel gauge reading about 1/8 from full after topping the tank. First, make sure you tighten the gas cap for more than three clicks. If it's still no good, have your dealer replace the fuel sender unit.

    That's how my gauge problem was handled and it has been working Ok for the last 5000mi. Good luck.
  • carmediacarmedia Member Posts: 4
    My 99 odyssey power sliding doors suddenly stop working. I turn of the power and use them manually. They works for two days. On the third day, the door on the driving side lock up completely. I bring it to the dealler and here is answer from them, quote: "Removed Fuse for doors to relearn. If doors are force opened or closed the system bets confused and needs to be relearned"
  • carmediacarmedia Member Posts: 4
    I bring my 99 odyssey to dealer on 11/29/00 to fix the Dash Light Recall. The dash light went out completely last night while I was on hightway. Call the dealer this morning, they told me that Honda send them the bad part. I have to take another day off to bring my car back to the dealer again. It is troublesome to have to deal with honda and dealer like this. May be this is my last honda car and/or last time at this dealer.
  • LexorLexor Member Posts: 2

    i tried to read the recent postings, but didn't
    find an answer. i plan to buy a '01 EX, but
    want to know if the transmission problem has
    been fixed by now. i remember reading a few
    months back that there was a problem w/ "knocking" sound coming off the transmission
    axle. Did Honda fixed this problem?

    in your opinion, is Odyssey a mechanically
    reiliable vehicle?


  • carmediacarmedia Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with my ex 99. I went out and bought new one and it fell off again some days later. I dont know what to do now. Should I bring it to dealer and complaint to them? How to fix this problem? Any suggestion would be appriciated.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Andali:

    Is yours a '99/'00 EX? Yes, in cold weather the slider panels begin to make funny noises; like something is loose. This is due to the press-in tabs used extensively.

    If you have a good dealer service, request them to remove the panel/s (right and left) and put in new tabs. Do this when cold as the new tabs will seat in better. Interior of the panel may also need some insulation on door frame contact surfaces. Alternatively, have them change the panels to (original) '01 panels. I understand that they were strengthened/modified for 2001.

    Please post your results.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Yewlock:

    I don't know what US dealers charge for a keyless fob. You do not need to go to your dealer if you are able to get this elsewhere. I think the owners manual describes how to programme/reprogramme a remote. However, if you are buying one from your dealer, take your van and the second remote to them and have them do a full job. Though this is not a warranty job, I am sure they will do it goodwill (free) for you if you have good relations with them.

    Happy driving.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Bozobear:

    I have yet to put in 1000kms on the '01 Ody. You might have read my last postings re why I changed over to a '01. Knock on wood, till now no funny sounds or rattles and the vehicle drives well. I have not tried any driving tricks with it yet since it is not fully broken in.

    I am a very sedate driver and don't do jack-rabbit starts or hard braking. I anticipate my driving. Both the '99 and '01 operate the same way and I do love the drivetrain. Smooth and responsive.

    Yes, I traded in the '99 for a '01 for its added items (like factory installed alarm system) and wanted to get away from the rattles, etc., that were the bane of the first model year vehicle. You read my post/letter to Honda Canada re problem with clutch pressure control solenoids. For now, everything is working well and I am looking forward to many years of driving this van.

    Happy driving.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Yfyu:

    I get the impression that (when sitting down) you put pressure on the backrest without it being properly latched. Did the seatback jerk back one latch stop? If it did, the sudden movement could have released/broken the latch release handle behind the seat. Does the latch work properly after that incident and does it allow the seatback to latch-stop properly?

    If you cannot work the latch handle, then something in the assembly is broken and your dealer should be able to fix it under warranty. If everything is working properly, but you still hear something banging and moving around within the seatback, then your dealer will have to take the cushion covers apart and check inside.

    Hope you find a quick solution to this noise. Please post your results.

    Good luck.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Olmanwifnoteef:

    Olman... you might have read my earlier posting re LX wheel shimmy. I am still of the impression that Honda bought some out of parallel/round steel wheels from some manufacturer and is still disposing them off.

    It may be time to get the service tech to drive the vehicle and convince him that a set of EX wheels are in order, or a brand new set of steel wheels with a different production batch number than that shown on your present wheels.

    Good luck and happy driving.
  • mschafermschafer Member Posts: 317
    There is a TSB out about this from Honda. Go over to the main Odyssey board and ask Trevor if he can find and post it. It's a simple matter of bending the clips that hold it in place so that they grip it tighter.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Mdrobish:

    Your dealer must be out to lunch...or, you are the first person to come to 'him' with the transmission problem. Lucky dealer, he is.

    The symptoms you relate are typical of clutch pressure and shift control solenoid failure. There are quite a few and one or more could have failed. Your PCM is now in a state of confusion as some fail-safe emulations could be interfering with normal operation.

    Did your dealer service drive the vehicle and did the tech experience the same things you did? If not, he is going to tell you that he did not find any problem with the vehicle.

    Did the dealer raise your van on a hoist and carefully check all the underbody drivetrain components? In particular, check both the front brake assemblies. Loose shims could be cause for vibration when braking.

    My reading tells me that 'thunk' and grinding noise between 0-30mph is probably being caused by improper clutch pressure & shift control from gear 1 to 3 and lockup. Jerking back and forth when trying to stop indicates that your torque converter lockup (and unlock) control solenoids are "confused". (Not engineering talk really).

    You could be looking at one or both of two problems.
    First, one or more of your control solenoids is in the process of, or has failed.
    Second, the PCM has failed. Meaning, you have a computer problem.

    The PCM can be diagnosed by your dealer, once he admits that a problem exists.

    Chances are he has very little to no experience with transmission failure. The only way to diagnose transmission failure, if he has already isolated the PCM and found it to be okay, is to hear the sound when it appears, feel what is happening, pull over and listen for unusual sounds in the engine compartment. Failed external solenoids emit a whining sound of varying intensities. Since you may not know where these are located, doing a diagnostic by yourself may not be possible.

    Try the dealer again, or find another one. Post your findings and/or if you need further suggestions.

    Good luck.
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Alexmish:

    You got me on that one. It did not strike me to check with you if you verified your tire pressure. My tire tech tells me that high inflation could distend tires in an abnormal way. Meaning, up to a certain pressure (about 5psi above tire rating) the tire maintains it rotundity. Beyond that apparently puts pressure on 'pressure-points' on the tire, and it could bulge or distend around any of its surfaces. Your pull to left and right could just have been the emulation of worn/out-of-toe tires in their over-inflated state. Thank God you and the family were safe and nothing untoward happened.

    I found 35psi to be hard. I keep my tires at 33psi cold.

    As to measuring cold tire pressure, get a good quality pencil type gauge and check the pressure first thing in the morning (inside your garage or outside where you park it - so long as your garage is not the sealed/heated type). I have never placed much trust in checking it after a drive, since many conditions can actually affect the temperature of air within the tire after a drive. Ambient temperature and driving conditions call for how fast or slow a tire cools over a period of time.

    Set all four tires to the same pressure. If one drops below the intended pressure I use a bicycle pump to put in a couple of psi more and then deflate it to the right pressure. I check this every two weeks. The 'cold' temperature you set the pressure at is the ambient temperature at the time. If you have very wide temperature fluctuations (20C or more) over a period of time, reset the 'cold' pressure. Don't let anyone at garages, fuel stops and other places check/change your tire pressure. That is not the time to do it.

    Also, don't let anyone check your oil level at fuel stops and such places. Oil has not drained back into the pan and, possibly, your vehicle has not been parked on level ground.

    Glad to know that the handle creak was fixed.

    Take care and Happy driving.
  • sgarelicksgarelick Member Posts: 8
    This one may sound strange, but I just bought a new 2001 EX and seem to get a small static shock every time I get out of the car and touch the door. My neighbor has a new Odyssey as well and the same thing happens to him. Anybody got any ideas?
  • 2k1odyssey2k1odyssey Member Posts: 68
    To Bschwarz, Bluff, Mschafer & Alexmish:

    Bschwarz, you say that you have approx 10 gallons left and the "needle" shows 1/4 tank. The lamp does not come on?
    If the lamp comes on, then read my previous posting/s. Angular/uneven surfaces could tip the fuel/float right down to signal the computer to energize lamp.
    Lamp not coming on but needle lower than normal gives me the impression you could have a malfunctioning fuel sending unit.
    Only way to fix it is to inform your dealer right away that you notice this problem, have him register (with date) your call of concern on his computer, and then check this at least twice more, each time recording your findings. You see, a slowly failing sending unit won't replicate the problem right away, say the next tank of fuel, but could go down the tank after that.

    If you notice the problem repeated, a new fuel sending unit is in order.

    Good luck.

    Bluff, you are looking at a similar problem as Bschwarz, but in the other direction. Could indicate a sticky float or failing electronics. Have you shown it to your dealer service? If you have, and he has recorded the incidence more than once, a new sending unit is in order.

    Bt the way, don't get bullied into not having it done with excuses that the tank has to be taken down, etc. The Ody has been designed so the fuel sending unit, inspite of being inside and on top of the fuel tank, can be accessed through the floor by removing a flap in the carpeting and lifting a section of the insulation.

    Alexmish, this vehicle was designed/built in Canada. All design specifications are metric and the tank was designed in 'litres'. Metric to Imperial gauging is easy enough and all US owners see Imperial markings (miles, gallons, etc.).

    If your service manager says his computer reads 17 gallons tank capacity, I won't say he is wrong. Except that his equipment is calibrated in "Imperial Gallons". Double talk here, but don't get confused. In fluid measure there is something known as Metric Measure, Imperial Measure (UK) and Imperial Measure (US).
    The Ody is calibrated in US Imperial Measure or US Measure, i.e. US Gallons. 1 US gallon is 3.7854 litres, while 1 Imp. gallon is 4.546 litres. Therefore 75 litres equates to 19.813 US gallons (and not 16.49 Imp. gallons as deemed by the service manager). What we have in the Ody is a 19.813 gallon (say 20 gallon) tank.

    Mind you, if it was a 16.49 gallon tank, imagine the fantastic fuel economy we are getting from the engine. (18/26mpg for 16.49 gallons instead of 19.813 gallons of fuel).

    Volumetric, from total dry to base of filler neck, the tank takes 74.81 litres. Your "reserve" is typically 3-5 gallons on a very near flat road from the point the lamp comes on. (Cannot remember if the gauge has a coloured mark too). There is no typical switching from regular to reserve tank.

    Gas tank cap clicking has to do with pressurised vapour recovery and fuel return pressure. Gauge repeatedly not reading properly warrants a replacement. The shop manual does not relate tank cap closure to sending unit function. They are not connected.

    Safe and happy driving to all.
  • vspnjvspnj Member Posts: 1
    We took the van to the dealer we purchased it
    from. The service manager seemed fairly nice
    and he claimed that it took about 3-4 hours to
    diagnose and identify as problem with the
    actuator. Our dealer provided a 'loaner' car
    for a day while they was working on it which
    was handy..

    We will be waiting for the part to get this fixed.
    Meanwhile, I would be interested to hear if
    others had similar problem.
  • mike734mike734 Member Posts: 128
    I too get shocked every time I get out of my 2000 EX. I think it must be the "upgraded fabric." I don't know what to do about it. Does anybody remember seeing cars in the old days with a thin strip of rubber hanging off the rear bumper? Was that piece of rubber suppose to discharge the car so as to not shock the occupants?
  • chanakchanak Member Posts: 14
    US regulations allow the accuracy of the speedometer to be plus or minus 10%. I assume this is to cover all possible 'non standard' tires people put on their cars. I also found that most Japanese cars have speedo on the 'high' side, i.e. you think you are driving faster than you really are (safety margin for speeding???). But US cars are usually right on the mark (no excuse when you get a speeding ticket).
  • chet7chet7 Member Posts: 13
    2k1odyssey, the following statement you made in post #43 caught my attention:

    "Failed external solenoids emit a whining sound of varying intensities."

    I have a 2000 LX purchased in Nov.'99. Once in awhile (not very often, and maybe only in colder weather) I hear a very high-pitched (almost only able to be heard by dogs) electrical-whine emanating for amidship. I can hear it from inside the cabin, but it is louder outside. Sounds like its loudest toward the middle of the van or just in front of the rear wheels.

    I have none of the tranny problems (drones or clunks) discussed in this forum and no other problems with the van (aside from an occassional rattly noise from a slider). Just this occassional (somewhat rare) whine.

    Since I have no problems, I have attributed this whine to a normal operational sound. But when I read your comment, it made me wonder.
  • timothyadavistimothyadavis Member Posts: 322
    Yes, many have reported getting the static shock when exiting the vehicle -- especially now in drier weather. It may be more frequently experienced in a minivan or other taller vehicles because we are more likely to slide down off the seat (building more static charge as we slide).

    Fortunately the solution is simple. Just grab hold of a metal part of the vehicle (the door frame edge will do) before you get out and hold on until your feet touch the ground. Holding the metal will allow the building static electricity to drain back to the vehicle without that sudden and annoying jolt.
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