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Comments
I have 01 EX with Michellin tyres - snow and ice performance, together with TCS, is excellent. Even without the TCS, I can not complain. But then, I am a careful driver and take it very easy on snow, always try to anticipate changing road and traffic conditions.
We put snow tires on our Odyssey without even trying the Michelins in snow. Since my wife is the primary driver and this is the go everywhere on weekends vehicle, we felt it was worth the $ to get them. First time we have used snows since 1984. Although the weather here in MA hasn't been too bad (only 4" thus far), I felt the snows combined with the TCS makes it a very surefooted vehicle. Will find out more on Saturday as the forecast for MA is for somewhere between a dusting and 24".
Will advise perfomance later and good luck with your decision.
Oh - They said be careful driving, it could be dangerous to drive. My wife has a relatively trouble-free Chevy with 75K miles. I am 6K miles away from warranty expiring - what can I expect then? I beginning to think Honda quality is mostly MYTH not reality.
Overfilling newer cars with OBDII can mess up the emissions sensors and set off the CEL, btw.
Steve_
Host
Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks for your time and help
Took it back to the dealer, problem was confirmed by tech. Fixes including rotate the front tires, align the 4 wheels(all out of spec.), and pull the subframe. Still pull to the right after the repair.
What bother me the most is the pull of the subframe. In Honda TSB for the fix of the drift, it states that 10 bolts need to be loosened to free the subframe completely before the adjustment can be made. As I was watching the repair took place, the tech only loosen 3-4 bolts and then start to apply large force on the left side of subframe and tighten the bolts when force was applied.
My question is will this cause permanent deformation and damage on the subframe and suspension parts?
Our family bought 3 Hondas in the last 4 years, '97 and '00 Accords, and '01 Odyssey, we are more and more disturbed by all the quality problems show up in our cars(Transmission leaking on '00 Accord V-6, only partial fix).
My wife and I talked about not buying Honda again in the future, but we are also afraid to get into something worse. Right now we are just very very disapointed with Honda.
Didn't think the Ody would handle it, but the TCS performed excellent and made up for the lousy Firestones.
I did not purchase this particular van, and it sold within hours after my test drive! Before I make a purchase I plan to test drive on hilly terrain!
Cloth seat creates static build up and we get an 'electric shock' every time we touch the door upon getting out of the car. Is there a fix??
Is there anything that can be done to change the color of the rear turn lights from Red to Amber or yellow? The red light I'm sure is cheap (single plastic moulding) but we hate it!
Would love to hear a fix for these...
On amber turn signals - I noticed that the turning lights have the more trendy clear lens appearance than the upper portion of the tail lamp assembly which has the older fuzzy red. I have been wondering if you can place an amber bulb behind the clear lens and get the orange turn light effect w/o replacing plastic lens covers. If anyone tries this, please report back.
I had intended to put the remote controls on a vibration table and do a three axis vibration test but the new controls came in before I got a chance to perform the test.
I decided it is the brand of jeans I wear. ;>)
Solve the problem by not carrying the FOB in your pocket or
LOCK the doors. Then it requires an unlock first.
I thought it was by removing fuse 13 for 10 seconds, but that didn't work.
Anyone know??
I still don't understand how an intermittent FOB problem could cause the door to open while the vehicle is in motion. Do you have an explamination for that?
It could also have something to do with the fact that it looks like an Ody dealership here.
Got two across the street, one next door and one on the back street. Maybe someone elses FOB like I opened my neighbors garage door with my opener.
I'll have to experiment more.
The next time when we start, only the Check engine light pops back up. Took the van back to dealer next day and was the problem was fixed ( some code problem). The very next day the same lights popped up again.
Has anybody faced this problem?
Also, anyone experiencing problems with the slider appearing to be ajar such that the interior lights and the dash indicator go on? Seems to happen only occasionally, and usually if I break hard or go over a bump. I have no idea if the door is really ajar or if it's just the sensor. Still does it even after the dealer "fixes" it.
Btw, is there any way to search for keywords inside one of these discussions? It's a real pain to page through hundreds of postings.
Read up on your local lemon laws and get the van back again and again until you force them to give you a new one because looks like they cannot solve the problem. Indeed a headache, but press Honda on this one. If your dealership cannot help, then write to Honda regional office, then to BBB. Directions/addresses in the back of the Owner Manual.
It is a total disgrace that any manufacturer will release vans with some of the problems we read about here. Toyota and the American brands are not exempt. They seem to feel that once you buy the vehicle, screw you. I think the multi-billion $$ companies can stand behind their products a little better, but unfortunately, why should they? If you or I choose not to buy another Honda, then there are 3 to 6 months' worth of other in line right behind us.
I own a '00 EX and have been disappointed at Honda's less than stellar record thus far. Unfortunately, Honda's competitors offer little better.
Good luck.
I now favor the LX model. I have an EX; really wanted the TCS and was ambivalent about the power doors but in '00 TCS was only avail on the EX. Steering wheel stereo controls and auto-off headlamps are cool, but not essential. Now that LX has TCS, bag the power sliders, they are more trouble than they are worth. I think GM invented the power sliders (figures), but Honda has not helped them evolve much. My sister's '99 Winstar also has power sliding door problems. I think they are inevitable; add 'power sliding door malfunctions that the dealer cannot fix no matter how much time you waste going back again and again...' to the list of taxes and death.
FWIW, it sounds like your dealer just reset the PCM without any real fix being applied. I do this myself by pulling the correct fuse, and the van will then run for anywhere from minutes to days before the lights pop on again.
Keep us posted on developments and solutions. I'll do the same.
1. Hard to keep the windsheild fog free, have to have the air on alot.
2. wipers are appalling, especially the pass. side. Only 8,000 miles and they perform like 50,000.
3. No traction control offering on the lx is a bummer. would of liked to have had that option sans power doors of ex. Still does ok in snow, but could be better if I'd get rid of those firestones.
I had my first Ody replaced and in very short order (expected a fight, but didn't get one) after I met w/ the Svc Director and gave him copies of my documentation of the problems, including the number of attempts at repair and the results of same. My guess is that if the vehicle is truly a lemon, the dealer would want to handle it quickly and quietly - and so would Honda. If, however, the dealer svc dept is chronically incompetent, they may be downplaying the vehicle problem and describing you as unreasonable. After all, Amer. Honda will only replace so many vehicles as lemons at a given dealership before they figure out that these guys are incompetent.
In any case, gather your documentation as though you are going to have to go thru the process of invoking the lemon law. Bring copies of same to a meeting w/ the highest level of management in the dealership that you can get to and explain that you want to be reasonable, but that this has gone beyond your patience as well as the requirements of law in your state. NOW -- all this assumes that you did in fact give them a reasonable opportunity to fix the problem. Such a reasonable opportunity is generally defined by the lemon law as to how many attempts and/or calendar time that has transpired where the dealership was unable or unwilling to repair the vehicle. Further, you should apply your own sensibility as to what you would expect the customer to endure if you were in business and selling the vehicle. My thought is that whichever of the above is the most tolerant, that's the one that would rule.
Good luck.
It seems that recycling the doors several times has reset the synchronization of the doors. I have not had the problems for two weeks now. We shall see if this is the fix for the long haul.
Note to POSTS #86 and # 187: Try reading post #164 for a suggestion regarding the doors. Mine seems to be cured for now. It also appears the dealers have no clue how to resolve the issues.
My suggestion is that it is something electrical or software related. The dealer claims that he fine tuned the adjustments???? Pretty poor design if a two ton vehicle has to be fine tuned to make it work porperly. Also, if it was a mechanical design problem, it would be showing up much more on this site.
Thanks again.
Drew
Host of Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Hi Alex. Glad to know that you had a safe trip. Don’t have NAV in Canada but have used the one in the Acura – really neat stuff.
Did you have a problem with the rear washer itself (fluid spray) or the wiper? I am trying to clarify if it is the same product but understand Canadian models come with a heavy-duty wiper for frost and snow. Your dealer could possibly carry a heavy-duty rubber strip, if not the whole unit.
Sorry about the less than impressive gas mileage. Factors such as load, terrain and cross-winds do effect consumption when travelling, compared to ‘ideal conditions’ numbers provided by the manufacturer.
Did you inform your dealer about the sticking brake switch? If going to him is not too much of a bother, request him to spray the plunger shaft with electric lubricant. It could be spray or grease and will benefit the switch if moisture has already gone in once with possible corrosion of metal contact points.
Speeds over the “ideal” 93kmph (60mph) also contribute to poor mileage, and with 87 octane I would say that 22mpg may not be too bad. Regular 87 octane is fine. I used it on my ’99 for inter-city driving and put in 91 octane just for the needed oomph on hilly highway driving. My 2001 has only tasted 91 octane but don’t know what was filled first time from the dealership.
Take care and happy driving.
No, there should be no clicking when turning the steering either way. There is a condition applicable to such a noise and it has to do with your vehicle’s rack-and-pinion setup. I am advised that your dealer should do a complete check of the system including the power steering pump and fluid pressure. Breakdown of power steering fluid (which ‘technically’ is a special Honda product) has been attributed to this noise as well. Please take the matter seriously and work with your dealership service department. Steering clicking in certain models of GM vehicles has led to ceasing of the rack and loss of steering control.
Take care and drive carefully.
You need to work with your dealership service department. ‘Operating within designed specifications’ means doors working perfectly, no questions. But you have problems with your doors.
Please read a previous posting of mine (probably in the previous discussion number), and print and take it to your dealer if needed. I have comments regarding use of cabin master switch with doors open, as well. Your doors are completely out of synchronization. I don’t mean to rap all dealerships, but I have noticed that quite a few in the US don’t seem to care for their customers.
Let me tell you right off that your repair is very time consuming and the manual procedure will have to be followed in sequence. Motor running with door partly closed means the revolution counter is out of sync. You could have a problem with the latch mechanism (a recall) where too much grease interfered with the latching process leaving the door technically unlatched, meaning the latch hook curved in before contacting the striker plate. Use of the master switch to stop a sequence and moving doors without switch in off, further aggravates the problem.
Working with your dealership is the only solution. If you have a good personal mechanic, a complete shop manual and a free weekend, you could probably do it yourself.
The genesis of the problem is electrical technology not normally reserved for the every day use automotive industry. A number of conditions, including atmospheric, can generate a malfunction. The solution is available – in your hands or in the hands of your dealership.
Good luck to a complete repair and possibly please post the results. Thank you.
I was not trying to be smart or anything. Please don’t ask me how, but a few postings entered on that day all came up with unknown letters and numbers between my words. I was told that it was a problem with the new system. If you want a repost of that information, drop me a note and I will do so again.
Per your service advisor, 18 out of 20 gallons only usable is incorrect. So long as the pump sucks up fuel, you can use it to the last drop. The exact moment (in terms of volume) when the lamp should come on is nearly impossible to replicate in regular driving conditions. It is based on the float switch.
Replacing your fuel sending unit may not solve the problem. Sending unit problems are more attuned to improper high or low level dial gauge readings and not when the lamp could come on. However, you can go ahead and have it replaced.
Also note that this ‘lamp’ problem exists with every horizontal fuel tank. It does not do so in vertical fuel tanks. Over the years horizontal fuel tanks came into existence since the vertical ones reduced either the cabin or trunk space and front wheel drive-trains allowed more space for a horizontal tank under the vehicle. Most manufacturers of vehicles with horizontal tanks did away with the lamp indicator as it was more bothersome than useful and only left the level gauge indicator. This problem is more pronounced in very wide and low height tanks, which is what the Odys have.
Yes, fuel volume is related to temperature, because it is a volatile liquid. However, fuel volume to temperature is adjusted (and corrected) at the pumps and the liquid volume you put into your vehicle is what you pay for. (Will you be willing to pay for 10 gallons if only 9.5 gets into your tank? The volume/temperature correction factor should also be stamped on the pump indicating at what temperature the correction factor is applied.) Your service advisor has picked up different pieces of information, but is not providing them in the proper context.
Please post your findings after the sending unit is replaced and you have a chance to check this situation again.
To All posts interested in this topic
In my opinion, I don’t believe any Ody owner is really interested in knowing the dry-run volume of the fuel tank, other than it is volumetrically a 20-gallon tank. I don’t believe anyone also waits to run the tank dry before filling up.
It is neither given in your owner’s manual nor in the workshop manual but your fuel level lamp light is designed with a special mechanical intention. Due to terrain or any other condition like a weighted down trailer hitch, if the suction mechanism sees less than 75% if its volume of fuel, it will signal the PCM to put the lamp ‘on’. A warning to fill up above the level, but not necessarily a full tank. On a low bed tank, so as not to suck up churned debris within the tank (collected over time), the lowest portion of the suction mechanism sits approximately half-an-inch from the bottom of the tank at a higher position than the tanks deepest portion , where debris is allowed to settle and collect. There is no adjustment; by design it will sit at the right height when installed in the tank.
By design, you can never “run-dry” a fuel tank. There will always be one location where the float does not reach and which holds some fuel along with debris suspended in it. However, from the moment the sending unit (that is why it is now called a sending unit and not the more commonly used ‘fuel pump’) sees less than 75% suction, it is in the process of destroying itself. Letting the unit draw percentages of fuel up to 0% will kill it in a matter of time. At the outset it will begin to malfunction. Additionally, damage has been known to be caused to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors.
Under warranty, a dealer service department will change your sending unit if it ‘malfunctions’ in a purely electrical manner, meaning, lamp coming on too early or dial gauge not reading properly. A mechanical sending unit failure (ceased pump) is very, very obvious and evident and can be checked very easily by the dealer. In all likelihood he will not replace it for you under warranty.
This is my caution to you. I have seen it happen, I have heard the words exchanged and in the end the customer paid for the unit.
I don't get what is happening. What are all these signs and digits appearing in my messages. It is confusing.
Note that I am not typing directly into this area. I am putting the information into a MS Word file and then cutting and pasting sections. Could your experts there tell you if you wordprocessing package is utilizing the right links?
I need help with this ... or posting becomes tiresome to read.
Thanks Drew
is normal.
Fuel gauge: My '98 Odyssey had the problem that some of you described, the needle does not indicate FULL when it is filled. It ended up at around 7/8 mark.
The dealer changed the fuel sending unit (the one at the tank). That didn't solve it. So I kept complaining. What finally fixed it was that the technician said that a wire was not grounded properly (which was at the sending unit area). I watched him tighten and jiggle the wire.
That fixed the problem.
Transmission: My '98 Odyssey (the small made in Japan one) check engine light came on the first day I got my car. The computer indicated something wrong with transmission, even though I couldn't feel anything different while driving. Dealer cleaned some sensor and changed transmission fluid. Light came on again a day later. Dealer changed PGM (I think its some
sort of computer). Light came on again a day later. Finally, Honda told the dealer to replace
the transmission (this at 3000 miles as Honda wanted to examine the transmission). That fixed it. No light has come on since and I have 50,000 miles on the car.
You guys are describing the same fuel guage & transmission problems as I had
on the pre-1999 Odyssey (the one with the 4 swing out doors). It's deja vu!
The list of my Honda's with least amount of defect/problems listed first
1. '87 Prelude (least repair, the best car I've ever owned)
2. '00 TL (minor fit/finish stuff)
3. '91 Accord (had brake problems)
4. '98 Odyssey (see above)
There seems to be a pattern, the newer Hondas seems to have more problems than
the earlier ones, which Honda built their reputation on.