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Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)
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Remember that there is adjustability and specs for the rears as well as the fronts.
Steve
The alignment seems fine. It doesn't pull and the tread wear is even. The prev owner did say that she had to keep a close eye on the tire pressure, because it would vary tire to tire and effect the ride. I don't know which tire(s) were problematic. Any ideas? It's from NH. Weather related, perhaps?
Here is a list of the tires I've been told to buy (Tire Rack included):
Toyo Spectrum
Michelin Hyroedge
BF Goodrich Traction TA
GoodYear Eagle LS
Bridgestone Turanza LST
Yoko AVID
You can see why I'm confused. And, the reviews are for ALL car types--not real helpful.
Beign from Massachusetts, I'm a bit of an aggressive driver. I am looking for safe, then handling, and, of course, tread life.
Is there a way to sort through the Bulletins? Or, do I have to open each individual one?
What part of the country do you live in? I live in the Northeast, and am concerned about safety and handling.
Kidding.
Actually, if you look at the link, there are paired down TSBs as a function of date posted or issued, but that's a sub-set. I linked you to the more complete list. (Shhh) look, we are very lucky to have access to these TSBs. I'm not sure how long that may be true. I found them via Google. Sure there's a little work for you... Not too much, just about right though.
So again, may I kindly suggest you register your VIN on Honda's OwnerLink? The vehicle is used, but Honda has a system in place to notify you of recalls that may not have been performed. They should in theory also show up on the OwnerLink after you've registered (not sure how long for the update to take place).
You can also go to the Main Edmunds site and look for Recalls or TSBs. You won't get the full text, but they are something you can discuss with a dealership service manager or independant shop if you are having problems in that particular area (I'm thinking TSB).
Your question about tires... and what you rate as important can be asked in the forum Ask Connor at the TireRack. I think you might get a different answer than if you ask it over the phone, as the person responding to questions there from the TireRack (Connor) seems pretty knowlegeable and consistent with responses. FWIW: if you live in the Northeast, personally, I would sacrifice on other criteria for performance in snow and rain assuming I wasn't buying a seperate set of snowtires. Then I suppose handling then noise. Noise is relative when you have 3 active ones below 7yrs.
At the same time they recommended changing the timing belt & water pump. This is scheduled for 6 years or 105,000. $750
What part of the country are you in? How many miles do you have on them? What type of driver are you. I'm a bit aggressive behind the wheel. So, a tire that is responsive is a must, especially in New England. ;>)
Have you tried other tires?
Any thoughts? :confuse:
Just purchased this vehicle 1-wk ago!
Any thoughts? :confuse:
Just purchased this vehicle 1-wk ago!
all right, you've got airbags now! and cruise! (suggest you don't use the cruise but stay actively engaged in driving your vehicle).
now more engine surging. All right!
radio buzz huh? it's possible it is the radio (does it happen with the heat on)? could be an antenna cable that has slipped out.
if you shut the car off does it still buzz?
does the frequency of the buzzing change with vehicle speed?
did you wash and wax it?
">Leakage (EVAP Canister System)
Is this correct? What are other possible solutions are there? Is this dangerous. I've got an infant in the back.
replacing the fuel cap should be relatively inexpensive.
it's number 24 in this diagram, priced about $7.50.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=5DR+LX+6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FUEL+TANK+- - %28%2799-%2700%29
i presume your mechanic replaced the evaporator line solenoid valve.
there is a system which takes evaporative fumes from inside the fuel system, coalesces them and returns unburnt fuel to the tank.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=5DR+LX+6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FUEL+PIPE
if the fuel system fails to draw down a proper vacuum during a self-test your car performs as part of emissions compliance regulation, the diagnostic code will be thrown and the check engine light will be illuminated.
i think this can happen because of a sticking valve in the evap line (i think your mechanic replaced that - confirm with the mechanic what valve it was), a leaking gas cap (are you positively sure you have been turning the cap when you fill till you hear at least 3 clicks?), or another leak in the lines associated with the evaporator system (which he'd have to locate possibly with some form of tester that puts out puffs of smoke)...sort of like looking for the source of cold air leaks around a door or window in your home) i imagine.
to tell you the truth, i don't know if it is dangerous. ask your mechanic.
i suppose personally what i would do, i would buy a replacement honda cap from the parts department if it's on the order of $7.50 or so - check by calling the dealer parts department for price and availability (you might be able to get a compatible cap at say autozone but this is the sort of thing i'd personally buy original equipment specially since it is cheap), i'd make sure i put it on tightly each use and made sure not to top off when the pump shuts off, i'd go through 2 or 3 fillup cycles of maybe 1/4 - 1/2 tank and a number of vehicle startups (say over a week period) to determine if the system resets itself and the CEL (check engine light) goes off.
hopefully, that takes care of it.
but if it doesn't go off, i'd go back to the mechanic and tell him the check engine light is still on, you've got the new gas cap as he recommended, you are using it correctly at the pump, you aren't topping off after the pump shuts off when you fill, and so you suspect a leak somewhere else in the piping. then tell him you'd hope he'd give you a break with futher diagnosing / fixing since you paid for a solenoid valve and his labor and bought a cap upon his recommendation and that didn't fix the problem - it must lie elsewhere.
i hope it helps.
I would replace the fuel cap.
One thing to rememer: the light will NOT go off as soon as you replace the fuel cap. What the system is monitoring is if a vacuum is being created in the system as fuel is being consumed. A cap which is loose or defective will leak air around it as fuel is burned and so no vacuum can form - then the CEL comes on.
I may take a while (several gallons of gas burned) after you replace the fuel cap before the CEL goes back off.
For the record, the CEL has been reset 4 times already. Same code P1457 every time.
# 1 when the light first came on (AutoZone reset it),
# 2 when my mechanic looked at it (he reset),
# 3 After the valve stop soloniod replacment (Mechanic reset), and
# 4 When it came back on the other day (AutoZone reset it).
It has not come back on again since the last reset and I'm due for another gas refill. I always make sure the gas cap is on very tight--old habit.
In doing research into this problem I came across a website for Odyssey owners (OdyClubOwners) and one of the posts discussed this problem. It outlined the things that can be at the root of this code.
Interestingly, I learned that being in the Northeast this time of year is usually when this code comes up due to water in the air uptake lines and freezing. I hope I'm interpreting this correctly. So, this info lends itself to a line problem and not a gas cap problem, correct? I just don't understand why the high gas usage is so high.
I am uncertain if the mechanic checked any of the lines when he changed the part. If water in the lines is the cause, my question is, if he did check the lines and the ice was thawed, would he still see a problem?
What are people's thoughts around this new info.
Interestingly, I learned that being in the Northeast this time of year is usually when this code comes up due to water in the air uptake lines and freezing. I hope I'm interpreting this correctly. So, this info lends itself to a line problem and not a gas cap problem, correct? I just don't understand why the high gas usage is so high.
>>
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i'd still buy the gas cap...
your other issue and fuel consumption are unrelated.
you realize most vehicles get lower MPG in the winter because of winter fuel formulations.
in doing research on MPG, you'll find a lot of information but will it be helpful to you?
check the engine air filter. this is something you should know how to do. it is simple.
I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how the cup holder can be removed.
I know I can remove the lower storage compartment to access the area behind the tray with a screwdriver (I've replaced my own cabin air filter so I can use tools)
but - its the principle of the thing...
Just wondering is there some "known" secret to removing the blasted thing?
Thanks.
Steve
verify there is nothing in either top or bottom track.
sit in second row while someone else drives. sound localization may be better from a different seat.
i like the idea of the lubing of attachment points and the shin etsu greasing of the rubber seals. available at the dealership? how about one of those automotive parts chains?
Agree on the contact set. No sandpaper - mild abrasive only. You want to remove any film or tarnish off of the surface. But if you break thru the plating, rust will form and electrical continuity will suffer.
Yep, I remember the 'track eraser'. Had one for both my HO Aurora cars and Tyco trains!
Steve
did you have your own hop-up kit with custom gear kits and magnets and plated pickups and the like for performace? wouldn't it be great if improving performance on real vehicles was so easy.
i'm surprised my brother and i didn't burn the house down when we were kids. he liked modding his slot cars with pieces of paper clips and spare vehicle front ends to make "dragsters". he liked to put excessive amounts of oil on the track and try making burn outs.
ahh the smell of ozone and burning oil. those were the days.
This van had the transmission recall which only involved an inspection. The check was done a few years ago, but found no problems. Last week, the transmission started to malfunction. I read about the extended Warranty on this message board and told the service manager about it. After check my VIN number, I was told that my van was NOT part of the extended warranty. However, it is obvious that my transmission was defective. Per my request, the service manager made a few phone calls to American Honda, and I was told that Honda will replace the transmission under warranty.
I think sometimes, it just takes asking, and you shall be served. Honda is a big enough company that they WILL care about their reputation and customer satisfaction. In this case, I had the transmission problem :mad: , but I was still a satisfied customer
I still have all that stuff in boxes in my basement, and someday, it is going to dominate my basement!! Two pit cases full of cars, a bunch of hop-up kit parts. My favorite mod was to substitute the pickup springs for the carbon brushes. Good conductivity & low friction to the armiture (yep, typical engineer...). I did the same thing as your brother, but I bent used pickup shoes, glued them to the inside of chopped bodies to extend the front axle forward.
I even have some of the AC vibrator motor cars that were produced by Aurora prior to going to the DC pancake in 1964.
OK, now back to our regularly scheduled Honda Odyssey programming...... Yes, get the Shin-Etsu. It is thick like vaseline and stays put (unlike that red oil that came with the HO cars...). Oops, there I go again, straying off topic.
Steve
Funny thing is had trouble locating the cruise control switch and only tested that after seeing it mentioned in another forum as something related to cable reel/clockspring issues.
The radio buzz..It maybe when the heats on since it started during the cold weather. It stops if we turn the car or radio off. Buzz volume can be adjusted with radio volume knob. And I would say yes the frequency changes with the speed of the vehicle.
It's been washed, waxed and given a Mocha Latte to keep it going. :P
We had the door mechanisms fixed/replaced 3-4 times during that three year lease. In fact when the lease was up, we purchased a 2003 Ody and I bought the Honda care for 7 yr 100k just for the door issues. And ironically to date we have not had a single issue with the doors in 3 years.
Take a shop vac and really clean out the bottom area of the doors, make sure there is no debris, crayons, mcd's french fries..etc. Wipe down the sides as well.
After the doors close, wait 1-2 seconds before you shift in park. Like I said, this happened every winter and early spring. Not sure why and nothing really seamed to work on the dealer end, so before you drop coin on the repair, try some cleaning out the doors first.
I am looking at CR recommended GoodYear assurrance triple treds, and another CR recommend was the Michelin X radial dt, which I can get at Costco.
I called the dealer and they "recommended" Michelin Symmetery.
I would appreciate anyones insight on tires, I would like an all season tour where handling is my first priority and can get another 50k out the tires.
I run dedicated winter tires (Dunlop Wintersports - head of the class on Consumers winter tire comparison in 2002), and will choose from their list toppers of performance all season next month to replace the Symmetry. They are at about 4/32 and getting 'hard' (reduced grip) after 4+ years old. I have no desire to run them to the bitter end.
Steve
Bad ground - often a common cause of head-unit or amp unwanted noise
Bad placement of wires in dash - one install for a deck/head-unit ran the power wires right next to a whole gob of instrumentation wires. Not sure what wire was doing it, but the power wires for the radio were picking up a signal off one of the other wires and the amp in the deck was....well, amplifying it! Quick fix, happy friend.
On an unrelated note, some of the power wires I have seen coming off of certain aftermarket (and especially stock decks) have been woefully flimsy and high gauge (THIN). I swapped a couple of those for people after showing it to them. Not much current going through them perhaps, but the wires were still too thin in my opinion.
may your chase be fruitful
Double check them by putting a rolled up towel in the way and cycle the doors.