Honda Odyssey: Problems & Solutions:(1995-2004 Models)

fibber2

Remember that premature tire wear could be something as simple as wheel alignment. Most of us tend to forget about this aspect of maintenance today, as cars hold alignment much better those clunkers some of us grew up with in the '70's. But if it is out, you can easily wear out a good set in 20k miles. And depending on the roads, you could need struts by your mileage.

Remember that there is adjustability and specs for the rears as well as the fronts.

Steve

auto2000k

Thanks Steve.

The alignment seems fine. It doesn't pull and the tread wear is even. The prev owner did say that she had to keep a close eye on the tire pressure, because it would vary tire to tire and effect the ride. I don't know which tire(s) were problematic. Any ideas? It's from NH. Weather related, perhaps?

Here is a list of the tires I've been told to buy (Tire Rack included):
Toyo Spectrum
Michelin Hyroedge
BF Goodrich Traction TA
GoodYear Eagle LS
Bridgestone Turanza LST
Yoko AVID

You can see why I'm confused. And, the reviews are for ALL car types--not real helpful.
Beign from Massachusetts, I'm a bit of an aggressive driver. I am looking for safe, then handling, and, of course, tread life.

auto2000k

Thanks for the info.

Is there a way to sort through the Bulletins? Or, do I have to open each individual one?

What part of the country do you live in? I live in the Northeast, and am concerned about safety and handling.

sirius2

I'm curious what tires people are putting on their Odysseys. My Symmetrys have 31K and the tire store says I may get another 10K, which would be pretty good based on what i've seen here. I notice the new symmetrys are only temperature B rated tires, whereas the OEM tires were A temp & A traction. These tires are about $120 in Michigan and many of the other tires, like Hydroedge cost significantly more. I'm happy with the Symmetry for noise and traction, it's just wear that's a concern. What else would give a better value for the money? I know I won't see 65K miles with these tires, but I'm not going to spend $150/tire for an 80K tire that might fail too.

user777

You mean, am I going to locate the bulletins pertinent to your vehicle as opposed to an accord or civic? no.

Kidding.

Actually, if you look at the link, there are paired down TSBs as a function of date posted or issued, but that's a sub-set. I linked you to the more complete list. (Shhh) look, we are very lucky to have access to these TSBs. I'm not sure how long that may be true. I found them via Google. Sure there's a little work for you... Not too much, just about right though.

So again, may I kindly suggest you register your VIN on Honda's OwnerLink? The vehicle is used, but Honda has a system in place to notify you of recalls that may not have been performed. They should in theory also show up on the OwnerLink after you've registered (not sure how long for the update to take place).

You can also go to the Main Edmunds site and look for Recalls or TSBs. You won't get the full text, but they are something you can discuss with a dealership service manager or independant shop if you are having problems in that particular area (I'm thinking TSB).

Your question about tires... and what you rate as important can be asked in the forum Ask Connor at the TireRack. I think you might get a different answer than if you ask it over the phone, as the person responding to questions there from the TireRack (Connor) seems pretty knowlegeable and consistent with responses. FWIW: if you live in the Northeast, personally, I would sacrifice on other criteria for performance in snow and rain assuming I wasn't buying a seperate set of snowtires. Then I suppose handling then noise. Noise is relative when you have 3 active ones below 7yrs.

ravingrav

I have a 2000 Odyssey LX with 88,400 miles & got the check engine light. Went to autozone & they said it was error code P0420 - Catlylitic convertor. I called Honda U.S and they opened a claim. Bottom line I had the dealer do the work & honda kicked in 50% of the parts cost. Just FYI the warranty for this is 7 years 80,000 miles. Final cost ~$500

At the same time they recommended changing the timing belt & water pump. This is scheduled for 6 years or 105,000. $750

khoa

We're very happy with the Bridgestone Turanza LST. Very quiet, great in rain & snow and they have excellent tread life.

auto2000k

Thanks for your feedback.
What part of the country are you in? How many miles do you have on them? What type of driver are you. I'm a bit aggressive behind the wheel. So, a tire that is responsive is a must, especially in New England. ;>)

Have you tried other tires?

auto2000k

79k miles. CEL came on last week with P1457 (90) code. General mechanic (not Honda dealership) replaced the fuel valve stop. CEL came back on with the same code!

Any thoughts? :confuse:

Just purchased this vehicle 1-wk ago!

auto2000k

79k miles. CEL came on last week with P1457 (90) code. General mechanic (not Honda dealership) replaced the fuel valve stop. CEL came back on.

Any thoughts? :confuse:

Just purchased this vehicle 1-wk ago!

khoa

I'm in Ohio. I currently have about 60k on my Turanza and still have very good tread. I can be aggressive when I'm late and no kids are in the van ;-) ... but that doesn't happen very often. Excellent in snow, no problem battling 8 hours in that bad Xmas snow storm last winter. On the Ody, I havn't had any other tires besides the Turanza and the OEM Firestone (which were a POS). For all the tires I've ever spent on, the Turanza are the best all-season tires.

sirius2

How much did you pay for those Turanzas, per tire?

mikku

Hi, Did you have any update on this? I saw Check Fuel Cap warning today and made no difference after making sure that Fuel cap was tightly installed. I removed it and re tightened it. No change...

liftitup

Thanks for the reply. We just got the vehicle back and it turned out that the part within the steering column the clockspring you mentioned?? which makes contact with the switches on the steering wheel, a cooper strip, had rusted. That fixed the SRS light and cruise control - still have a radio buzz after about an hour in the vehicle. Damaged wire to the power steering pump seemed to have fixed the engine surging. We have no idea what would have caused rust on a part on the inside of the steering wheel.

user777

one rusted clockspring...one too many ICEEs, Big Gulps, Starbucks or something like overdosing on Windex or some other interior cleaner perhaps.

all right, you've got airbags now! and cruise! (suggest you don't use the cruise but stay actively engaged in driving your vehicle).

now more engine surging. All right!

radio buzz huh? it's possible it is the radio (does it happen with the heat on)? could be an antenna cable that has slipped out.

if you shut the car off does it still buzz?

does the frequency of the buzzing change with vehicle speed?

did you wash and wax it?

khoa

I paid $72/tire from Tirerack 3 years ago. Looks like the current price is now $87/tire.

khoa

You are on the wrong board, try the 2005+ forum, you might get more proper answers. 05+ has drive-by-wire, could be the cause of your 6000RPM jump. That cannot in anyway be safe!!! Have it serviced right away.

rockycow33

P1457= Evaporative Emission (EVAP)Control System
">Leakage (EVAP Canister System)

auto2000k

My mechanic replaced the fuel valve stop and the CEL came back on. Now, he's recommending replacing the fuel cap.

Is this correct? What are other possible solutions are there? Is this dangerous. I've got an infant in the back.

user777

ok, i'm a bit out of my league here, so take this for what it's worth (and maybe someone else chime in please if i go astray):

replacing the fuel cap should be relatively inexpensive.
it's number 24 in this diagram, priced about $7.50.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=5DR+LX+6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FUEL+TANK+- - %28%2799-%2700%29

i presume your mechanic replaced the evaporator line solenoid valve.

there is a system which takes evaporative fumes from inside the fuel system, coalesces them and returns unburnt fuel to the tank.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- cgry1=Odyssey&catcgry2=2001&catcgry3=5DR+LX+6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FUEL+PIPE

if the fuel system fails to draw down a proper vacuum during a self-test your car performs as part of emissions compliance regulation, the diagnostic code will be thrown and the check engine light will be illuminated.

i think this can happen because of a sticking valve in the evap line (i think your mechanic replaced that - confirm with the mechanic what valve it was), a leaking gas cap (are you positively sure you have been turning the cap when you fill till you hear at least 3 clicks?), or another leak in the lines associated with the evaporator system (which he'd have to locate possibly with some form of tester that puts out puffs of smoke)...sort of like looking for the source of cold air leaks around a door or window in your home) i imagine.

to tell you the truth, i don't know if it is dangerous. ask your mechanic.

i suppose personally what i would do, i would buy a replacement honda cap from the parts department if it's on the order of $7.50 or so - check by calling the dealer parts department for price and availability (you might be able to get a compatible cap at say autozone but this is the sort of thing i'd personally buy original equipment specially since it is cheap), i'd make sure i put it on tightly each use and made sure not to top off when the pump shuts off, i'd go through 2 or 3 fillup cycles of maybe 1/4 - 1/2 tank and a number of vehicle startups (say over a week period) to determine if the system resets itself and the CEL (check engine light) goes off.

hopefully, that takes care of it.

but if it doesn't go off, i'd go back to the mechanic and tell him the check engine light is still on, you've got the new gas cap as he recommended, you are using it correctly at the pump, you aren't topping off after the pump shuts off when you fill, and so you suspect a leak somewhere else in the piping. then tell him you'd hope he'd give you a break with futher diagnosing / fixing since you paid for a solenoid valve and his labor and bought a cap upon his recommendation and that didn't fix the problem - it must lie elsewhere.

i hope it helps.

rorr

"My mechanic replaced the fuel valve stop and the CEL came back on. Now, he's recommending replacing the fuel cap."

I would replace the fuel cap.

One thing to rememer: the light will NOT go off as soon as you replace the fuel cap. What the system is monitoring is if a vacuum is being created in the system as fuel is being consumed. A cap which is loose or defective will leak air around it as fuel is burned and so no vacuum can form - then the CEL comes on.

I may take a while (several gallons of gas burned) after you replace the fuel cap before the CEL goes back off.

khoa

I heard a mininum of 3 trips for the pressure to build up and the system to properly diagnose the leak and reset the CEL.

auto2000k

Also, I neglected to mention that I got ONLY 250-miles to a tank of gas. This was my first tank of gas since I purchased the vehicle and all of this CEL stuff started happening.

For the record, the CEL has been reset 4 times already. Same code P1457 every time.
# 1 when the light first came on (AutoZone reset it),
# 2 when my mechanic looked at it (he reset),
# 3 After the valve stop soloniod replacment (Mechanic reset), and
# 4 When it came back on the other day (AutoZone reset it).

It has not come back on again since the last reset and I'm due for another gas refill. I always make sure the gas cap is on very tight--old habit.

In doing research into this problem I came across a website for Odyssey owners (OdyClubOwners) and one of the posts discussed this problem. It outlined the things that can be at the root of this code.

Interestingly, I learned that being in the Northeast this time of year is usually when this code comes up due to water in the air uptake lines and freezing. I hope I'm interpreting this correctly. So, this info lends itself to a line problem and not a gas cap problem, correct? I just don't understand why the high gas usage is so high.

I am uncertain if the mechanic checked any of the lines when he changed the part. If water in the lines is the cause, my question is, if he did check the lines and the ice was thawed, would he still see a problem?

What are people's thoughts around this new info.

sbpceap

I have an opportunity to purchase used alloy wheels from a 2001 Odyssey to replace the steel wheels on my 2003 LX Odyssey. I would be ordering these via the internet, so I can't "try them on." My local Honda parts dept (unbelievably) didn't know whether the wheels are compatible between these two Odysseys. Does anybody know if the wheels are the same size and lug pattern, or where I can learn the answer? Thanks!

user777

>>
Interestingly, I learned that being in the Northeast this time of year is usually when this code comes up due to water in the air uptake lines and freezing. I hope I'm interpreting this correctly. So, this info lends itself to a line problem and not a gas cap problem, correct? I just don't understand why the high gas usage is so high.
>>

?

i'd still buy the gas cap...

your other issue and fuel consumption are unrelated.

you realize most vehicles get lower MPG in the winter because of winter fuel formulations.

in doing research on MPG, you'll find a lot of information but will it be helpful to you?

check the engine air filter. this is something you should know how to do. it is simple.

doublesharp

I've found a nice 97 Odyssey. I need to tow a bass boat (2500lbs) a distance of 20 miles each way about 25 times a year on flat Florida roads. Is the Odyssey up to it and, if it is, what's a ballpark price on a hitch install? Thanks.

sbpceap

I think the Ody is up to the task of towing a 2500lb boat. I installed a hitch ("HiddenHitch" brand) on my '03 and it simply bolted into place. Price: $200-$300). The electrical hook up simply plugs in, once you find the receptacle behind the driver's side tail light (under plastic panel inside cabin). I'd recommend the larger 2" class 3 receiver size, and because of the amount of towing you describe, get the transmission cooler installed (Honda or aftermarket). Then, just take it EASY! good luck.

user777

OK, my wife lost a pen (she says - wish it were my cash) in the mechanism for the center console cup holder (would be the item replacing a cigarette tray). Now the cup holder fails to go all the way in flush with the rest of the console, so something is blocking it.

I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how the cup holder can be removed.

I know I can remove the lower storage compartment to access the area behind the tray with a screwdriver (I've replaced my own cabin air filter so I can use tools) ...

but - its the principle of the thing...

Just wondering is there some "known" secret to removing the blasted thing?

Thanks.

user777

ahh - i think i figured it out. i have to use a screwdriver from underneath the cup holder to push in a retaining clip.

dsrtrat2

Had some of same type problem, so took cardboard like a file folder, made a trough out it and duct taped it as low down in that catch-all slot as I could get it. Wife didn't even know I had done it, so must have been unnoticeable. Took care of all those UFOs(unknown foreign objects.)

fibber2

If the leak is fixed, the pressure should be right on the next startup. However, most OBDII systems require a minimum of 3 complete driving cycles for the computer to register the fix, and turn off the MIL (CEL) lamp. But it can take another 40 more cycles for the error code to be cleared from the memory log. During this time the 'readiness indicator' remains unset, so if you are planning on going for an emissions inspection, you will flunk. If you are pressed for time, borrow a scan tool and clear it from memory.

Steve

px260

Just purchased an used EXL with 48k miles on it. Everything works fine except when turing into or out of a driveway ramp, the right passanger side makes a groaning sound. I think it is coming from the power sliding door, but not 100% certain. Previous owner indicated that the vehicle was not involved in any major accidents before. Does anyone share a similar experience? Thank you for your comments.

rockycow33

I had a creaking stress like sound in my pax door (99 Ody)which was cured by lubing all attachment points, I also put shin etsu grease on the seals and used 1500 grit wet/dry paper on the connectors. Good luck

user777

to remove oxidation on the connectors, i'd recommend using a pencil eraser (ever own a slot-car race set?). 1500 is pretty fine, but i wouldn't think it necessary.

verify there is nothing in either top or bottom track.

sit in second row while someone else drives. sound localization may be better from a different seat.

i like the idea of the lubing of attachment points and the shin etsu greasing of the rubber seals. available at the dealership? how about one of those automotive parts chains?

fibber2

Last year I picked up a tube of Shin-Etsu grease while making an on-line purchase of a bunch of other stuff from HandA.com. It was a little pricy at $11.69. Prior to that I used Maguires rubber/vinyl treatment (sort of like armour-all or son-of-a-gun) and it worked just fine. Amazing how quiet the doors are when the seals are clean and supple. As soon as the doors begin to groan and squeak when driving, out comes the rag and chemicals.

Agree on the contact set. No sandpaper - mild abrasive only. You want to remove any film or tarnish off of the surface. But if you break thru the plating, rust will form and electrical continuity will suffer.

Yep, I remember the 'track eraser'. Had one for both my HO Aurora cars and Tyco trains!

Steve

user777

well, i've got a noisy seal on my accord, so i'll invest in a tube of the stuff. Saw it also on HandA and wondered if available elsewhere.

did you have your own hop-up kit with custom gear kits and magnets and plated pickups and the like for performace? wouldn't it be great if improving performance on real vehicles was so easy.

i'm surprised my brother and i didn't burn the house down when we were kids. he liked modding his slot cars with pieces of paper clips and spare vehicle front ends to make "dragsters". he liked to put excessive amounts of oil on the track and try making burn outs.

ahh the smell of ozone and burning oil. those were the days.

pjekoo

I have a 2002 Odyssey with 50K miles. With a few phone calls, Honda paid for a new transmission.

This van had the transmission recall which only involved an inspection. The check was done a few years ago, but found no problems. Last week, the transmission started to malfunction. I read about the extended Warranty on this message board and told the service manager about it. After check my VIN number, I was told that my van was NOT part of the extended warranty. However, it is obvious that my transmission was defective. Per my request, the service manager made a few phone calls to American Honda, and I was told that Honda will replace the transmission under warranty.

I think sometimes, it just takes asking, and you shall be served. Honda is a big enough company that they WILL care about their reputation and customer satisfaction. In this case, I had the transmission problem :mad: , but I was still a satisfied customer .

fibber2

Hi Sam,

I still have all that stuff in boxes in my basement, and someday, it is going to dominate my basement!! Two pit cases full of cars, a bunch of hop-up kit parts. My favorite mod was to substitute the pickup springs for the carbon brushes. Good conductivity & low friction to the armiture (yep, typical engineer...). I did the same thing as your brother, but I bent used pickup shoes, glued them to the inside of chopped bodies to extend the front axle forward.

I even have some of the AC vibrator motor cars that were produced by Aurora prior to going to the DC pancake in 1964.

OK, now back to our regularly scheduled Honda Odyssey programming...... Yes, get the Shin-Etsu. It is thick like vaseline and stays put (unlike that red oil that came with the HO cars...). Oops, there I go again, straying off topic.

Steve

liftitup

Can't recall ever dumping anything over the steering wheel and as for interior cleaning maybe but pretty infrequently.
Funny thing is had trouble locating the cruise control switch and only tested that after seeing it mentioned in another forum as something related to cable reel/clockspring issues.

The radio buzz..It maybe when the heats on since it started during the cold weather. It stops if we turn the car or radio off. Buzz volume can be adjusted with radio volume knob. And I would say yes the frequency changes with the speed of the vehicle.

It's been washed, waxed and given a Mocha Latte to keep it going. :P

user777

if the buzz frequency varies with speed of the vehicle, i'd tent to think either the antenna connection is poor, or there is an ignition issue, maybe some bad wires.

golic

I had a 2000 Ody and every Chicago winter we experienced the exact same problems with the power doors. Doors wouldnt close, or all the doors are closed and it still beeps. I remember having to open and cycle through all the doors or just turn the power switch off.

We had the door mechanisms fixed/replaced 3-4 times during that three year lease. In fact when the lease was up, we purchased a 2003 Ody and I bought the Honda care for 7 yr 100k just for the door issues. And ironically to date we have not had a single issue with the doors in 3 years.

Take a shop vac and really clean out the bottom area of the doors, make sure there is no debris, crayons, mcd's french fries..etc. Wipe down the sides as well.

After the doors close, wait 1-2 seconds before you shift in park. Like I said, this happened every winter and early spring. Not sure why and nothing really seamed to work on the dealer end, so before you drop coin on the repair, try some cleaning out the doors first.

golic

It is time to replace our tires on our 2003 EX-L. The factory installed tires are gone at 46K.

I am looking at CR recommended GoodYear assurrance triple treds, and another CR recommend was the Michelin X radial dt, which I can get at Costco.

I called the dealer and they "recommended" Michelin Symmetery.

I would appreciate anyones insight on tires, I would like an all season tour where handling is my first priority and can get another 50k out the tires.

sirius2

From what I've heard 46K isn't bad for a $110 Michelin. The others cost even more and who knows what the life span will be. I've been happy with the Symmetrys and will probably stick with them.

fibber2

Any time you have to dip into your pocket and produce $400 on an 'out of plan' expense, it does indeed hurt. But lets remember, somewhere along the way, most of us found $25k to $30k to make this purchase in the first place. Basics like replacing tires are simply part of the deal. The Symmetry is a good, middle of the road, all season. Does everything OK, nothing exceptionally well. To me, grip is first priority, then ride and noise, and at the bottom of the list life span. If they cost $25 per more, and last only 2/3 as long, but stop a car length shorter, thus avoiding an accident, then I made a wise choice. Put your families safety first.

I run dedicated winter tires (Dunlop Wintersports - head of the class on Consumers winter tire comparison in 2002), and will choose from their list toppers of performance all season next month to replace the Symmetry. They are at about 4/32 and getting 'hard' (reduced grip) after 4+ years old. I have no desire to run them to the bitter end.

Steve

sirius2

My 03 EX drives great. I've only got 31K miles but it sounds like you may need to have the service manager test drive it. Good luck. Let us know.

lastwraith

The antenna connection is something good to check, as was said. Some other possibilities include (not sure how much you want to get into this issue):

Bad ground - often a common cause of head-unit or amp unwanted noise

Bad placement of wires in dash - one install for a deck/head-unit ran the power wires right next to a whole gob of instrumentation wires. Not sure what wire was doing it, but the power wires for the radio were picking up a signal off one of the other wires and the amp in the deck was....well, amplifying it! Quick fix, happy friend.

On an unrelated note, some of the power wires I have seen coming off of certain aftermarket (and especially stock decks) have been woefully flimsy and high gauge (THIN). I swapped a couple of those for people after showing it to them. Not much current going through them perhaps, but the wires were still too thin in my opinion.

may your chase be fruitful

fenris99

We have a 2001 model. The power doors are a little scary. When you shut them they close- no sensor, no stopping them if a kid's hand or foot gets in there. Is there a fix for it?

robr2

Your power doors don't stop and reverse when they hit an obstruction in the last 12" of travel??

Double check them by putting a rolled up towel in the way and cycle the doors.

fenris99

Are they supposed to stop if they hit an obstruction in the last 12 inches? I wasn't aware that they were designed that way. This is a 2001 model. I will check though.

robr2

Yes - obstructions encountered in the last 12 inches of travel when closing will stop and reverse the door.