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Comments
KC HighLites would be a good example, and they cost around $700-$800.
Is there anyone in the are that carry OME?
I think most people order them over the Internet. There are several sources for the OME via the Net. You can check Quadratec, but you might do better on price elsewhere.
Lifts are easy to install, so you should be able to do it yourself. The one hard part that I have heard about is the trac bar relocation bracket. I didn't have to worry about that with my little 2" Procomp lift.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
The Quadratec price for the 2" TJ OME lift kit is $769.95, but you can get the same kit from dpgoffroad.com for $649.95.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Anyway, if you go with the Congo rack the ad may make you think you need the extra utility bars or whatever they call them. I recommend you don't buy them at first. Install the rack and then see if you still want them. I think the rack could hold a canoe without them but it might make it easier to get the boat on and off.
If you decide you do want them, let me know and I'll sell you my never used set for a very good price.
Yours in Jeep Coolness,
Dave
Mark
-Mike
I totally agree with you. And no, neither service dept. at either of the two dealerships I went to will put anything in writing, nor will they say anything "on record." (Surprise, surprise.)
I had a 2004 Sport with dual tops and never had a drop of water in it either, so I know firsthand that Wranglers are not "designed" to leak (and even if I had not owned a Wranglers before, I would have a pretty good idea that no car is "designed" to leak
The sales dept. mgr. called me on Saturday and said he didn't care what Chrysler said, that my Wrangler should not leak and that he would take care of everything. We'll see what happens and if he keeps his word.
I told him that this is the third car I have purchased from his dealership in less than two years (my 2004 Sport was totalled in an accident; I currently have both a 2004 Grand Cherokee Rocky Mountain Edition and a 2005 Wrangler Sport) and that "the buck should stop with him." This situation should not have to go the way of Lemon Law, as he, Chrysler and I know this car (and at least one other 2005 Wrangler on this dealership's particular new car lot) are defective and what is happening is not by design. Will keep you posted...
I now have put 2,000 miles on mine (including the 750 mile return from McGonigal) and have loved every mile.
Was in Dallas on business all last week. Missed the Rubicon.
Hard top is great. Hope you can eventually get one. Love the Deep Beryl Green.
I've now added XM (swap it between vehicles). Installed the car kit - thanks everyone for the tip on installing the antenna under the cover for the roll bar. Barely any degradation in reception as compared to the roof mount on my Sierra.
Additionally, I've added a car kit for my iQue GPS.
Now that I have all the "required" creature comforts for daily driving, I'll have to start working on the "real" mods!
Art...
Good grief! I'm all for doing your own maintenance, but before replacing components like that at random it makes a lot more sense economically to pay for a diagnosis first.
Alternately, you could run through the logical troubleshooting processes detailed in the FSM (Factory Service Manual).
Anyhow, if you want me to take a wild guess (and I agree it's unlikely to be the PCM), try checking the ASD (Automatic Shut Down) relay which controls power to both the ignition and fuel injection circuits. (Switch it with the one in your friends Jeep before buying another new part! :shades: )
If your friend is willing, I'd be inclined to check the health of the components changed so far by substituting them, one at a time, with those on the other Jeep. I'd start with both CPS's, as they're the commonest cause of your symptoms and are the most easily damaged when fitting them.
If they all check out ok then you'll need to check the condition of the various circuits involved. Not just for continuity, but for high resistance as well. This is especially important on the circuits to and from the PCM (including the grounds). Make sure to 'wiggle test' all the connectors and wires as well.
For future reference, the 'wiggle test' is usually the first (and easiest) test when trying to solve this sort of problem, especially when it's a vehicle that's been standing for a while. It usually turns out to be a corrosion problem, causing either a high resistance or a broken wire.
Good luck!
-Rob
If they all check out ok then you'll need to check the condition of the various circuits involved. Not just for continuity, but for high resistance as well. This is especially important on the circuits to and from the PCM (including the grounds). Make sure to 'wiggle test' all the connectors and wires as well.
For future reference, the 'wiggle test' is usually the first (and easiest) test when trying to solve this sort of problem, especially when it's a vehicle that's been standing for a while. It usually turns out to be a corrosion problem, causing either a high resistance or a broken wire.
Make sure to check the various grounds as well.
My problem with the whole idea of snow tires is that I'd only use them for about 10 miles at the most, then the rest of the 75 miles to work would be on clear, above freezing roads. It doesn't seem to be cost effective to get them. As early as we leave in the mornings, the roads are often snow covered, but rarely icy. And most of the time they've been plowed and any ice has melted by the time we come home (there have been a couple of exceptions, but only about once a year or 2).
-Rob
Also, I am in the Northern Virginia area. Does anyone know about any good trails around here?
thanks in advance.
To remove the doors, remove the hinge nuts, being careful with whatever wrench you are using not to let it slip and scar your paint. I recommend a boxed end wrench, so that it won't slip off. The nuts are 13MM.
Don't forget to slip the limiting straps off of the pegs before trying to lift the doors off.
Be SURE to lift straight up on the doors as you remove them. You have exposed threads on the hinges by removing the nuts, and those threads can do some serious damage to your paint. Those doors are heavy, so make sure you have your hands positioned properly and are ready to take a heavy load.
You will need to pull the number four fuse to keep the dome/interior lights from staying on all the time.
Come on over to western KY and wheel with me sometime. Should only be about a twelve hour drive for you... we're practically neighbors!
Have fun with that Jeep! Hope you find some good Jeep buddies to wheel with.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Here's a website I created that might be useful to you.
http://home.earthlink.net/~tsjay49
EDIT: I fixed the link.
And I hate to rub it in, but this morning Regular was $2.02 at my local Marathon station.
I was once blown sideways off an icy highway! (Cherokees are really lightweight, and when lifted they catch a lot of wind like a sail). But for traction to go and stop, the AT/KO was really good in anything BUT deep mud. I'll probably buy them again when I get all my lift funds together.
Oh, my contribution from flyover country - Filled up today at $1.97. We have nothing to do out here, but at least the fuel is pretty cheap.
This a warranty problem, so absolutely you should talk to the dealer! :shades:
It seems to me that someone here had a problem with their Wrangler's tranny several years ago, but it isn't a common problem. Definitely go talk to your dealer.
John - I'm quite a bit west of Hemitt/Idlewild - there's 2 National Forests between (Angeles and San Bernardino). I'm near Frazier Park, which is in Los Padres.
$1.97 for a gallon of gas? That would be almost as good as winning the lottery!
I'm beginning to wonder if we'll ever get a winter - we haven't had much of a fall (well, the trees have changed colors). My hubby is planning on putting the top down and taking my nieces for a ride over Thanksgiving. And yes, right now I would love to trade the 80's at work the past couple of days for a few inches of snow!
It's on Redstone Hill drive, near ESPN.
figures, I filled up yesterday
-Dan
above is a link to the mirrors I bought, they are easy to put on / take off, just drop in the hinge and tighten down with a nut. they vibrate alittle at hwy speed, but not bad.
the first time you take the doors off,, its going to be feel like you are really working, just keep wiggling them back and forth as you lift up. it never hurts to have someone help.
:sick: