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Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    Yep, mine too.
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    thank you chucko3

    i got home and started checking the F I V . i took the top off and sure enough, loud vacume noise, covered it with my hand and the idle stopped. i tried to reseal it and close it, but the idle lope returned. so i removed the unit itself in hopes of rebuilding it myself. theres to anti-freeze lines conected to the bottom. one of the lines was so pluged that i couldnt even get air to pass threw it. i cleaned it and the line. the retainer for the idle valve itself came completly unscrewed some how befor i even opened the top. i rescrewed it, cleaned it up, renstalled the unit and starte it.

    sure enough.... no more idle lope!! its fixed!! WOOT!! :)

    drove it all day with out incedent. i actually got worried cause i came to a stop light and the rpm went down 6 or 700 and i didnt hear anything. light went green and she took right off! lol

    now i must figure out this stiking shifter prob.

    this site really does help. this is second time this place has resolved a problem on this car. :P
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    chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Msg #11592 will fix the low idle speed at the stop light. ;)
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    well with a new egr, 3 code clears and and cleaned out intake.... i cant guess much more. i have to agree with lastwraith, if u could tell us the codes u are getting off the ecu, then we could better guess the solution to ur prob! all u have to do is go down to a parts store really, they'll check the codes for free, remember those codes and post em here. wont cost nothin.

    as far as the gas cap thing, did u remove it then retighten it or did u just give it a few more turns while it clicked? replacement of ur gas cap will most likely never be an issue, never!

    your air filter is what it is, its for air, clean air, not for re-emitting exaust gases. if u would like to change it feel free, but it wont clear ur codes.

    like wraith said, get the codes, post em here, and we might be able to better diagnose or help with the problem.

    keep us posted diann2
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    lol, i know, the timing needs redone too, ill do that tommorow.

    just got a little spooked cause im used to the dam thing learching out into the intersection on me lol :P
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    go buy ur self a haynes manual or chiltons manual.

    that should give u a good starting point. it usually has a dismantaling procedures in it.

    dash jobs arent fun so beware, and good luck!
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    sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    What you are proposing seems like way more trouble than it is worth. I have an '03 EX-L with nav and just purchased a Magellan roadmate 700 ($750 at Costco) for a new car we were going to purchase but didn't (Nav was not an option). I returned it because we decided not to get the new car yet.

    It has a built in hard drive which contains map information for the entire country - just like the DVD in the Accord. It has a great user interface (either touchscreen or buttons) and clear voice instructions. It also can detect speed of travel and has an integrated trip computer. Of course it cannot detect gas mileage and is not integrated into the rest of the car functions. The newer Roadmate 760 has the detour feature, way more points of interest and can speak any street name. It cannot decrease the radio volume when speaking a direction but it does increase the volume automatically above 40mph. If when we get our next car nav is not an option we will definitely but the Roadmate 760.

    My point is that if you did not get the nav in the first place there are much better options than trying to retrofit a factory system to your current car. Either get a portable nav from Garmin or Magellan or trade your car in for one equipped with nav from the factory (new or used).
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    I'm having a problem that I haven't heard of anyone else having. I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl with automatic transmission. For many months I've been having a problem with the key not wanting to turn all the way to come out of the ignition. It stops in the position where the radio and such are still on and won't go any further. At the same time, I cannot press the shift button in to shift out of Park. I can turn the key back the other way and re start the car, but can't turn it all the way back to get it out. I know the brake is connected to shifting out of park, and I've tried pressing the brake, pulling the emergency brake, turning the car back on and then off again, etc. Usually I just sit and wait a couple of minutes and it'll just finally turn all the way like it never had a problem!
     
    It's not the key - I've used all of my keys. Because the shifter won't shift out of Park when this is going on, it's gotten to the point where I leave the car in Drive at drive-up windows because I'm afraid if I put it in Park, I won't be able to leave! It's actually happened to me at the drive-up window of my bank, and also at the end of my drive when I left the car running in Park while I crossed the street to get the mail. I've also had to leave the keys in it once or twice because I didn't have enough time to just sit and wait. I'd throw something over the steering wheel so you couldn't see the keys hanging out and use my spare to get back in.
     
    Also, I've had major problems with the electric windows on this car (I bought the car used). The driver's window was rising outside the guide track on the way up and I had to pull inward on it while going up to make it stay in the track. The passenger window was also making a lot of noise on the way up. I was told that the regulators were bent and I had them replaced in both front doors. The windows are going up OK now, but there is still a lot of noise going on inside the door when they're used. It sounds like metal bending each time.
     
    I love my Honda. It's been a very mechanically sound car for me, but it's definitely had it's quirks. I have never replaced so many tires on a car in my life. And never have I had a windshield take as many rock hits or crack as badly as the two I've put on this car. It's like a huge magnet that just attracts rocks to jump up on my hood and slide on up.
     
    Anyone else having these problems? - Thanks!

    AHHH YES!!! i am not alone! any one else? :)

    i have the shifter problem. not quite as bad though.
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    rcc8179rcc8179 Member Posts: 131
    I'm having a problem that I haven't heard of anyone else having. I have a 1990 Honda Accord LX, 4cyl with automatic transmission. For many months I've been having a problem with the key not wanting to turn all the way to come out of the ignition. It stops in the position where the radio and such are still on and won't go any further. At the same time, I cannot press the shift button in to shift out of Park. I can turn the key back the other way and re start the car, but can't turn it all the way back to get it out. I know the brake is connected to shifting out of park, and I've tried pressing the brake, pulling the emergency brake, turning the car back on and then off again, etc. Usually I just sit and wait a couple of minutes and it'll just finally turn all the way like it never had a problem!

    I cannot help you with your window problem, but I can help you with the key problem described above. It is the shift-interlock system that is malfunctioning. Basically, there is a mechanical switch that senses that your car is in Park so that you can remove the key. If the car is not in Park, you can turn the engine off (key to the Accessory position), but you cannot turn the key the rest of the way and remove it. You probably hear a click when you try to push the key in to turn it the last step.

    I had the same problem with my 1989 Accord a few years ago. The shift-interlock switch is located at or near the base of the gearshift. It probably just needs adjusted. My mechanic fixed mine--I don't remember for sure, but it was probably for the cost of 1 hour labor.
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    silvercoupesilvercoupe Member Posts: 326
    Has anyone used Nippon oil filters in their Accord? I just got 10 off Ebay for $27 and just wondered if anyone has used them and with what results.
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    dhakaladhakala Member Posts: 1
    We are also having the same problem. We have a 1997 Honda Accord LX and have just started having the tachometer dancing around. Our mechanic has changed the tachometer and it has continued. Nobody seems to know what is causing this and it is getting frustrating. The car is now having a jerky motion when you are driving.

    Any help out there would be appreciated so that we can get this problem resolved before we get stranded.
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    mendota51mendota51 Member Posts: 2
    Looking for price quotes on adding leather to an LX. Got this response from one dealer in NC:

    Leather is not a factory option on the LX. We no longer add after market leather to cars that have side air bags. SSRS lights routinely come on when adding after market leather to cars with side air bags. When this light comes on it means there is a problem with the side air bag system. We just don't feel comfortable adding any thing after market to a car that might interfere with the safety system. Let me know.

    Anybody have any experience with this? Obviously, this could change our minds about having this done. I am surprise other dealers would offer it if it caused such a problem. Thanks for your help.
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    turbodog3turbodog3 Member Posts: 8
    However with my accord, I noticed that sometimes traveling at 25-40 mph, when I step on the break gently and slowly, the car would surge a bit, like if I just give her some gas for a second, then starts to slow down, well, it's not that dramatic otherwise the car won't be safe but I definitely didn't feel it when I was driving other cars. And when I keep press the pedal on accord down gradually, it does slown down gradually until I hit a spot (probably around half way down) the car would just slows down in a faster rate.

    I also own an 05 Accord 4-cyl AT and I do experience the same exact problem with the brakes at low speeds. I do not recall ever noticing it at higher speeds. It is not enough to make me feel unsafe, so I never brought it back to the dealer. One thing I cannot stand is the transmission when moving from Park to Reverse/Drive, it makes a noticeable "thump." My 01 RAV4 is very smooth and quiet when I am shifting. But overall, I like my Accord alot! It's very roomy and priced just right.
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    well u see i dont have the key problem, its just the shifter itself. its sticking coming out and going into park. but thanks, i will check into where and how to adjust the shift interlock.
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    ur probally noticing the downshift, the rpms jump when coming to a lower gear. whatch ur tack and listen.

    the transmision thud though im not sure, maybe the idles high and when u shift it, its catching the gears and it goes thud. unless its an unusual heavy thud, the kind that chatters ur teeth (exagerating of course) i wouldnt worry to much. thats just me though, if it really worry's you make some calls or get it checked out. hell its an 05' its still under warranty! take it back, they have to check it out
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    chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    My 03EXV6, I used to feel the slight vibration in the brake pedal after straight out the steering wheel and step on the gas pedal when first starting out.
    Now I don't feel that vibration anymore. But instead I hear a slight rev'ing up sound of the engine every time I turn the steering wheel when the car is in Park or stopped. I know I put more load on the engine when I turn the steering wheel. But my 89LXi doesn't make that rev'up noise when I turn the wheel. I wonder if the heavy steering on the V6 has anything to do with the sound.
    Does your wife 03EXV6 behave the same thing when the steering wheel is turned (when the car stopped or in Park)?
    My co-worker 04EXV6 doesn't do it.
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    steelhead1steelhead1 Member Posts: 6
    Accord Hybrid has a battery guage for the IMA system on the dash that consists of 6 bars. I've noticed it rarely shows all six. Most of the time it only shows four, and drops to two or three and recharges back to four. BUT, if coasting down a long hill, like a mountain pass, it will show all six bars and then quickly goes back to four.

    Is this normal? The electric motor assist runs very little. When it does it doesn't run for a very long time. It might run for 15 seconds or so but certainly is just a boost to the gas engine.

    The dealer says it's normal. .
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    srobaksrobak Member Posts: 96
    Just get the EX-L instead. It will cost less than having aftermarket leather done, and is OEM - so all your SRS will work fine. And it looks good and comes with heated seats and power drivers seat. Worth the $. Go to the dealership and take one home - no having to wait.
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    srobaksrobak Member Posts: 96
    Shift slower. Seriously. R to D or D to R is not supposed to be a 1-step shift. Put it in N, wait a sec - make sure the car is NOT moving - then put it in the other gear. I know this sounds pretty basic, but 90% of the people on the road do not think about this anymore, and have become accustomed to quickly shifting or shifting while still rolling in the opposite direction.
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    isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    I agree. There are so many things that could get messed up while doing this conversion!
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    richards38richards38 Member Posts: 606
    Note that the Accord EX-L (4 cyl. w/leather included) also has heated seats with 8 way power adjustment on driver's side, dual automatic climate control, XM radio, and maybe other features in addition to the leather.

    Rather than diddling with after-market leather, you'll probably be MUCH happier with the EX-L..........Richard
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    hotch41hotch41 Member Posts: 61
    I just picked up my EX Accord 4 cyl automatic this past Tuesday and I've sorry ever since I pulled onto the highway after leaving the dealership. There is vibration in the steering wheel although it does shimmy. Also, when I accelerate or if my foot in resting on the accelerator, I feel vibration from the accelerator to the point my foot and leg tingles during driving and even hours after driving it. I just think this is typical for Hondas and it will be pretty hard to live with. I've had other 4 cyl cars (other makes) and never experienced such nonsense. I test drove an LX and was satisfied with that so I just assumed the EX would be even smoother. Well I didn't test drive it like I should have. If I did, I probably wouldn't be writing this because I would stuck with my previous car (another 4 cyl, but not a Honda). I just called the dealer's service dept. and they said that there are no service bulletins that address vibrations. Has anyone experienced something similar to me? I just have a bad taste in my mouth and regret purchasing it. Thanks in advance!
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    hotch41hotch41 Member Posts: 61
    I meant to say in my previous message that the steering wheel does NOT shimmy so I don't think it's a balanceing issue. Thanks.
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    auntdiann2auntdiann2 Member Posts: 8
    Ok, Kasuma, here goes. My mechanic tells me that the code is "1457". Does that sound right? Can you help?

    Thanks so much.
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    i know this is a little off but bear with me, my 86 firebird had the same problem. at low speeds there really wasnt any vibration but once u got up to highway speeds the steering wheel started to shake or vibrate. there really wasnt any loosness or extra play on the steering wheel or any shimmy, but u definitly felt the car vibrating. i was on new rims and new tires so i totally ruled out the balancing issue altogether till, on a long shot i took it to a different independent tire sales place and had them balance the tires.

    now i thought for sure i was waisting my money, till i got back out to highway speeds. the vibration was gone. and was sure alot better to ride cause after a 6 hour run my but was numb from the vibrations in the past.

    i would have the balance checked out any way, it doesnt cost much and, at the very least, u will rule that factor out altogether.

    sometimes iv noticed that after the dealer gets rid of the car, they dont want it back. its kinda sad but thats what they do nowadays.if u have a little extra cash, take it to a reputable tire service place. they see a new customer and they usually like to leave a good impression so u might come back in the futer!!

    good luck and keep us posted.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I havve an '04 EX-L 4 cyl and there is no vibration at all in the gas pedal, steering wheel, brake pedal or anywhere else I can think of, (and believe me I'm very picky). Sounds like you have an issue with yours!!!

    Is the car new?

    sorry to hear your starting out this way with your Accord, that is not normal.

    Mrbill
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    ok, im no expert so dont exactly quote me for anything.

    P1457 EVAP Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)

    (nothing to do with egr by the way)

    Here are some possible causes for P1457:

    Fuel cap missing or incorrectly fitted
    Fuel cap seal defective
    Leak / damage on carbon canisters or evaporative pipework
    Purge valve failure
    Purge valve vacuum line leak or blockage

    i realize this is vague but its a start. the code ur getting really is only going to affect ur fuel mileage. what it does is recurculates the fumes from ur tank into your intake when the computer see's that the mixture can handle a little enrichment, other wise it rerouts it to a charchoal canister de-fusing the gases.

    good luck and keep us posted
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    auntdiann2auntdiann2 Member Posts: 8
    I'm going to start with a new gas cap. Is the purge valve different from egr valve? because I thought when he replaced the valve AND cleaned the manifold (or whatever) it took care of the last two things you mentioned. should i take it to the dealership now? and what do you think i could say to my mechanic (if anything) about the $500 I spent?

    By the way, thanks so much for all your great advice you're giving everyone. It's much appreciated!

    Auntdiann
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    kazumakazuma Member Posts: 50
    1) dont thank me, ur car isnt fixed.

    2) i dont think iv ever managed to talk a mechanic out of money i now i didnt have to pay, so if u manage to talk him into giving u money back tell me how.

    3) http://www.insightcentral.net/encyclopedia/enrvr.html this site shows you how the system is routed and it isnt to your egr at all.
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    leebyleeby Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX-L with a manual transmission. After the first week I bought the car, I have been getting a metal rattle from the dash area this is really annoying. I think its coming somewhere from the radio to the passenger air bag area in the dash. You can hear it driving around 55-60 mph on rougher roads. Lately, I've been noticing the rattle at slower speeds and on smoother roads. The weird part is that it does not happen everytime. I took it into the dealership and managed to duplicate the noise for them. They adjusted the exhaust heat shield and said it was touching part of the car's body. I guess they were wrong because I still hear it. Does anyone have the same problem and if so, how did you get it fixed? The noise sounds like a loose piece of sheet metal hitting against another piece of metal. I think its either coming from the radio area in the dash or from the engine bay. Please help!
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    kelljkellj Member Posts: 2
    I am also having the same problem. Did you see the post about doing a reset which
    involved putting the windshield wiper on intermittent and then several more steps including
    disconecting the battery for 15 seconds. If anyone can help , the problem is none of the power door locks work. Also the drivers door panel only opens front and back windows on the drivers side. However all car windows can be powered open at their individual doors. this is a 98 honda accord.
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    kelljkellj Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm having a little trouble understanding your directions here. I have the exact same problem that you were addressing so I'd like to try it. When I start this procedure you describe what position is the key in. Next I'm not certain which fuse you mean to pull.
    then you say "or to be sure disconnect the battery" . Should I pull a fuse and disconnect the battery? thanks for any help .
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    ryan76ryan76 Member Posts: 2
    As I write this my 03 Accord is sitting in my driveway, unable to shift into reverse or drive from park. This happens every now and then and wherever we are...we end up being stuck there for a while. When I start the car, everything seems fine...I put my foot on the brake, the TCS light comes on, and my gear shift is locked in park. The TCS light came on many times while the car was under warranty and was brushed off as not a big deal by the dealership, and wouldn't you know it, most of our problems hit us after 48K miles. If this was our third car and was paid off...and not our family car, I'd drive it into the river and not think twice about it. I am so utterly frustrated with this car as you can tell.

    This is one of the many problems we've had, not to mention these:
    Radio and AC controls went dim! (A $700 repair to install a new unit)
    The standard brake issues...search this forum!
    Numerous rattles and noises, which reminds me...our current rattle seems to come from one of the rear wheels and no one I've taken it to can figure that one out!
    The AC went out about 6 months after we drove it off the lot!

    We're not rough on our cars and this is the kicker...we're a Honda family. Here's the history of Hondas we've owned.

    84 Civic, 89 Civic, 86 Prelude, 93 Accord, 99 Civic, 01 Civic, 03 Accord, and an 05 S2000

    We're thinking of purchasing an Odyssey but may switch over to Toyota or Nissan after all the crap we've gone through with the 03 Accord. It is an utter DUD!

    If anyone could give me any advice on any of these problems I'd greatly appreciate it.
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    mobjornestadmobjornestad Member Posts: 2
    any further word on this problem - my $800 light bulb just went out.....03 Accord with 54K

    Mo
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    mobjornestadmobjornestad Member Posts: 2
    Just went dark - Dealer says rare but happens - $127 labor and $635 for the light bulb (radio attached for free). However, my radio works - just can't see the station, or the time, or the temperture settings.

    Does anyone know if it helps to remove the plastic cover - does that make anything readable?

    After market products? Suggested by one dealer guy....no specifics.

    Idea?
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    lx_steallx_steal Member Posts: 45
    Get the custom faceplate adapter for $125, http://www.crutchfield.com/S-oL5aSQ8QqfL/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=751&I=120997864 and put in a superior radio for $250, or buy a used Honda radio on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-2004-Honda-Accord-Radio-CD-Player_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQca- - tegoryZ38641QQitemZ7991698141QQrdZ1
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    hotch41hotch41 Member Posts: 61
    Yes the car is brand new. What's upsetting is that I drove a LX-V6 the day after I bought the 4 cyl and it was smooth throughout....no vibration whatsoever...not in the gas pedal or the steering wheel. I'm sure it helps in the fact that the V6 has the drive by wire (or throttle by wire. I wanted to go back to the dealer to swap it for the V6 but they were going to depreciate it by $3000. If they were concerned for my satisfaction, they would have just have made me pay the difference between EX 4 cyl and the LX-V6. As I mentioned before, it's a night and day difference between the 4 cyl and V6. Vibration is non-existent in the V6. I really would like to sell it and start over b/c the dealer has offered only $17,700 if I trade it for the V6. Call me unreasonable, but I really don't want a car that has vibration every time I accelerate. Any other ideas? Thanks to all.
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    mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    If the dealer says that there is nothing wrong with your car, then they should be willing to let you take another EX 4 cyl for a ride to verify that its in all EX 4 cyl cars (which it's not).

    Like I mentioned before, my '04 EX 4 cyl (which is identical to an 05) has no vibration what so ever in the gas pedal and steering wheel. You verified that yourself with the LX you drove. It sounds like something is hitting something else causing the vibration you feel. Could be a simple fix if they would do some looking.

    Your car has somehing wrong with it, it was not designed that way.

    If the dealer doesn't do anything, take it to a different dealer, the warranty is valid at any dealer.

    Mrbill
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    lx_steallx_steal Member Posts: 45
    Unfortunately, a used car is just that. Once DMV and taxes paid, dealer's hands are tied. He would have a used car on his hands.
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    temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I have a 2005 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L 4cyl 5 speed and I think I am getting the same sound. I have 9,000 miles on the car. I took a trip from Nashville to Boston a couple of weeks ago. It is the oddest sound and I just hear every now and then. I have not been able to figure out where it is coming from. I am surprised that you could duplicate the sound. I wondered if it were something in the suspension but I don't know. What the dealer did to your car sounds like it might be the problem, but obviously not. If you figure it out, let me know and I will do the same. Mine is doing it so infrequently that I would never be able to duplicate the problem for them; at least, not at this point.
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    temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I have an 05 Honda and this is my first Honda. With Ford, if the problem was reported under warranty they will often come back and do the repair if it reappears within a reasonable time. Do you have documentation either on the dealer computer or a personal hardcopy to prove that you had it in to service for this problem? On a 2000 Ford van I had a radio speaker short repaired, but it showed up after the 36,000 mile warranty. In this case, the dealer did an 85% Ford pays and 15% I pay deal. I pressed the dealer and that is how I found out about the program. I think this would be true with GM too, but I am not sure. Often, the consumer does not know about these programs because they are not advertised. See if you can get the dealer to have Honda cover the repair. That is just not fair that you would have to pay for a problem that you had previously reported.
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    temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I have an 05 Accord and I don't have any vibration. I am wondering if you have a tire that is out of round or out of balance. That is the first thing that struck me when you said vibration. A tire out of balance will annoy the fire out of you.
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    leebyleeby Member Posts: 8
    I'm leaving my car with the dealership on Monday. I will let you know if they can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. It can't be from the suspension. Its either inside the dash or in the engine bay. I will give an update as soon as I get my car back.
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    mfskoldmfskold Member Posts: 1
    I had an intermittent rattle in the dash of my 03 Accord EX. Turns out in my case, the rivet on one end of the VIN plate on the dash pop loose and would sometimes rattle against the dash. Not sure if this could be your sound, but it may be for someone else.
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    chazbjchazbj Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A NEW 4 CYL LX ACCORD. THERE IS NO VIBRATION. SOMETHING IS WRONG WITH YOUR CAR.
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    walt63walt63 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 1996 Honda Accord LX , 2.2 liter engine. I recently worked on the engine with the intention of changing out the timing belts but when I got to the crankshaft drive pulley I couldn't remove it . I tried an electric impact wrench to no avail so I gave up and reassembled the parts I had removed to gain access( alternator , powersteering pump, etc). The engine ran ok as usual . But after a few hundred miles of driving it develped a severe oil leak and the oil appears to becoming from behind the drive pulley. Could I have damaged an oil seal with the work I did? I did not pry on the pulley or the timing belt covers. I can't imagine anything that I had done that would cause this oil leak. I welcome you comments .
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    imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,154
    Check for a radio at your local wrecking yard.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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    user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    same thing came to my mind - wheel imbalance. however, is it possible the vehicle is mis-aligned? another possibility - warped rotor due to over-torquing?
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    lx_steallx_steal Member Posts: 45
    I had a support beam in the headliner making a rattle that I thought came from the dash. I pushed on the headliner on the driver's side about 6 inches back from the visor and the problem went away.
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    mpfmpf Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with a new Camry when I accelerated to 65-70. After several service appointments, they finally realized that one of my tires was defective. When I replaced all four tires, the vibration stopped.
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