Hi charles125, How did they do it? Mine was welded but not cured. The vehicle is in the service now and they are taking it apart as we speak. It was supposed to be test driven and fixed in a day! I am glad to hear that you are happy Honda owner again.
Thanks for the suggestion. Definitely above add mark. I will try the tapping on the float when it stops raining. This morning it was 48 and the light did not come on.
I have own a '04 EX-L If feels like heating from the lower leg isn't warm enough, it almost feels like NO HEAT is coming out. Does anyone have this problem?? Let me know. James,
i assume you have the settings such that the heat is directed to come out from the lower vents-- not the upper ones.... you also might want to close off those vents by the windows...
The outside temp. must be in the low single digit. I thought my 03 had that heating problem until I noticed my 89 did the same thing. When the temp goes up above 20F, then I can feel the hot air.
I have a 2001 Accord that I am leasing. Lease is up in May. To buy, $14,274. Right now the car is in for a new transmission (still under warranty). Should I buy? No other problems with the car and I love it.
I have the same issue with my 03 EX-V6. The vents seem pretty weak for the lower leg area, even with the mode set to direct heat only to that area. It's not a big deal, but I would prefer more heat directed there. And when it's really cold, I don't want to have to shut other vents to get more heat on the legs.
Again, not a big issue, just a nitpick (for those of you who get your dander up when someone points out a dislike...)
Don't close the vents beside the windows as you will get the side windows fogging/icing up alot quicker.
Try the settings for defoger&legs or only legs to get more air to your legs. This works really well for me.
The heat in my 04' Ex V6 is amazing. -30 C outside with a windchill of -45 and I'm just scorching in the car. I have to reduce the heat or my hands feel like they are burning.
I've also got heated seats and it gets REALY warm as well.
Car pulling to the left and right sides issue: Try and see if dealer can fix. If all is testing OK, then it's those darned low resistance rolling tires. I've changed mine to winter tires and ALL the pulling has gone away.
About the tires causing the pulling/drifitng issues. Are you referring to the stock tires on the 03-04 accords also, I think they are michelins on all sedans. So this drifting can be attributed to low resistance tires? What are low resistance tires anyways?
I could feel every incline and decline in the road with those stock tires. Michelin Energy™ MXV4® S8's I believe that come with the 04 accords.
Just as I would come to a stop, the tires would pull even harder to the side, depending on the slope in the road. Even when I was stopped slowly. I knew of this issue when buying the model but it was not enough to turn me away. I knew the car was just too good otherwise. I also knew that I could change the tires and it probably would go away...and it did.
I have no problems with heat on legs from my '03 EX V6. I like the idea of not having my right leg blistered by an over ambitious heater. By the way, closing the side vents actually directs more heat to the windows through the litte edge vents. The side vents should be used for fresh air or AC. Overall the car stays at the temperature set with little hassle or commotion. My wife's Highlander thrashes back and forth trying to regulate (it is auto temp also).
For another few days I own a 2003 Accord ExV6 without navi, which I purchased in 5 months ago. The engine knocks and pings, like do older cars when you put cheap gas in them. Does anyone else have the problem? Does anyone know if the problem/non-conformity is fixed in the '04? I'm a little leary of buying another accord. I had no other problems with the '03, well, except the driver seat if it was just a smidge from fully extended it "wiggled."
If it is cause by fuel pre detonation-this is a big problem-can damage your valves. Get it to the dealer asap. You did not mentiona CEL or check engine light being on-is it. Have you check your engine oil level-not enough oil will make the engine lifters rattle-not good.
Something is wrong-maybe just a valve out of adjustment-would not drive it much till you can have someone who knows these engines to listen to the ping. Let us know what you find.
So far I have been impressed with the heat in my 04 Accord. While GA has been fairly mild this season the car seemed to warm up quickly during our few 18-25 degree mornings. I usually keep the climate control set between 69-71 and never have to turn it up any higher.
Anyone notice some pretty bad smelling exhauat after flooring it. I noticed it twice on my 04 Accord V6 after getting out of the car and the other time that same smell was coming in thru the ac system (the auto ac had already switched to outside air).
yep i guess it comes from there, since i smelled it when i went to get something from the trunk... kind of also has a rotten egg type of smell... not nice at all...
Anyone have any recommendations about octane to use for 04 Accord V6, i know manual says 87 minimum but ive read other places that premium increases performance and since v6 is a highly compressed engine, premium would actually help out... Other places say that premium is waste if manual calls for regular. Manual does say minimum 87, not required, i dont know anymore! Any thoughts?
It seems like my '04 EX-L's MPG is not up to 24/34. I fill up full tank, then it only runs about 300 miles to empty tank. Does anyone feel the same ? What do you think about the MPGs?
make sure you kow how to calculate MPG-- fill the car with gas-- then set trip odometer to 0-- drive it for , say, 280 miles, fill with gas again noting how many gallons (let's say 8.5), then divide 280 by 8.5.
when you say it went 300 miles till an empty tank, i assume you didn't actually run out of gas right? thus yo shouldn't asssume you're not getting 24/34 gas mileage.
well the general opinion is that your Accord won't really get its best mpg until you have about 5000k miles on it at least.
If you have that consider your driving conditions and style. Calculate your real mileage based on how much you fill up and actual miles driven between fillups.
I drive my car rather infrequently and 30% City/70% highway. I go about 360 miles on a tank before the gas light comes on. That has always averaged about 29.5 mpg. I wish I was getting 34 also.
My experience is similar. I didn't get good mileage until about 5K, but on a road trip I got 37mpg on exclusively highway driving. I'm getting about 26 most of the time now b/c I'm a little lead-footed and drive mostly short trips of <5 mi.
I just took delivery of an 2004 Accord EX V6 Automatic. The financial guy offered an extension to the bumper to bumper warranty out to 72 months/72,000 miles for around $900 ($0 deductible). Does this sound like a reasonable (or necessary for that matter) offer ? I'll probably keep the car for 4-5 years (60,000 miles)
Many of the emission controls are already covered longer by law depending on the state where you live. I think the CAT is covered to 80k miles in all states.
I think the battery, tires, breaks and muffler are NOT covered by the extended warrantee.
I did not get one but you should think what is best for you. When was the last time you spent $900 on auto repairs between 36k & 72k miles (in your case 60k miles) that was not one of the above repairs?
1) The original factory warranty covers the car as best as possible, except that it doesn't provide a free loaner during overnight warranty service.
2) An extended warranty upfront therefore unncessarily duplicates the factory warranty until the 3/36 point for the Accord, with the exception of the free loaner.
3) Major consideration: if the extended warranty is non-Honda provided (meaning one of those 3rd party all-brands warrantors) and the provider shuts down before the term is up, a pro-rated refund is obviously in doubt (oxymoron ?).
4) If for some reason the car needs to be sold earlier than planned, the used car market gives little consideration to an extended warranty.
5) Even if 4) is not the case, one can buy an extended warranty shortly before the original runs out, at about 35 months / 35k miles. The price of the extended warranty may even be lower then !
My advice: unless the free loaner is vitally important (probably not since the Accord isn't prone to warranty work), bank/invest the money, buy the E.W. before the original factory warranty ends, and come out ahead.
I Have a 04 EX V6..just shy of 6k. I noticed the coolant level was below the "Low" line..actually a few inches below but could still see it. I filled it back up last week and now notice it has gone down about a 1/2 inch. Ive researched other similar posts but couldnt find a resolution. Is there a problem..or could this be normal for it to slowly go down?
If it happens again, check the coolant level in the radiator. I bet it will be low. If it is, fill it to the neck and fill the reservoir to between Hi and Low.
I just got my 2004 Honda Accord EX 4-door sedan 3 weeks ago. The engine light came on this morning so I took it to the dealer. They apparently ran the diagnostics and "found nothing wrong", then opened the gas cap and closed it tightly, ran the diagnostics again and the light had gone off. I clearly remember closing the cap with the 3 clicks. It has been unseasonally cold on the east coast - could this be a problem? I have read some postings here about these problems with earlier year models - is this a common problem with 2004 cars too. Please tell me if I should expect to see this problem again and how do I deal with it. Should I take it to the dealer every time I see the engine light? This time they gave me a "one-time courtesy of not charging" but generally if they run diagnostics and there is no problem found they would charge. Thank you for any feedback/assurance anyone can give.
If the light is on and there's no problem, isn't that a problem since the light was on? I can't believe they would try to charge for fixing what shouldn't have gone wrong on a brand new car, no matter what brand it is... they get paid by the company for the service under warranty.
They should have scanned the car's system and gotten a code and told you which code they got. Not doing this suggests a very sloppy service department. You can have warranty work done by any honda dealer-would suggest you find another dealer. The next time the CEL illuminates, take it in and tell the hopefully different dealer you want to know the code. Record it and someone here can tell you what that code means. Probably not serious but why take a chance.
Check the paper work you hopefully got from the dealer-can't believe a honda service guy would not give you the code. Have always had good luck with honda service people-can't say the same about the sales side though except for the small town dealers.
We have seen some icing that cloggs up the evap line so like bburton3 has said try and find out what code and we can from there...Dont let them charge you for the no problem founds either because thats just not right..
Thanks for the info. Dealer now says they'll give me a "good deal" on a new 04 Accord (or any other Honda) due to many circumstances. No numbers yet to help me decide. I told them I did not want to battle with service every visit. So far, they will not consider doing anything to the "within factory specs" steering.
Should I consider another Honda/Accord? (I was thinking of a Toyota Highlander.) But, my 01 v6 accord (top of the line) isn't worth too much and interest rates are lower than when I purchased. New car = new warantee; I thought I knew what I was buying the last time.
I looked at restyled 03 Accord when they came in and it was much nicer than my 01, so I'm sure the 04 is even nicer. But is it better?
My '98 Accord has only 61000 miles on it and today I was informed by a very reliable mechanic that my transmission fluid leak is because the Final Drive Unit/Bearings in the Trans -Axle need to be replaced. I called 5 area transmission shops to ask if this is an unusual occurance I was informed by each that it is indeed something they've never heard of at such a "low" mileage for this make of car, which concurs with my mechanic. One place told me that they felt this qualifies as a defect. Anyone have any suggestions or opinions on this? I'm looking at a $2500-$3000 repair bill for a vehical that is not supposed to have major problems like this! Thank you.
QUESTIONS: ----Have you taken this vehicle to your selling dealer for an opinion? ----Did you get your vehicle serviced on a regular basis at your selling dealer, (so that you have a business relationship with that dealer)? ----Do you have an extended warranty on this vehicle? ----Are these bearings lubricated by the transmission fluid? If the answer to this question is "yes" have you ever changed the trans fluid in 61,000 miles? ---- Have you driven the vehicle "hard" in snow or mud? ----Have a nice day. -----Greg
I just changed the oil on my 97 4cyl Accord and was considering changing the tranny fluid, but the drain plug looks like it requires a special tool to get off. Is this the case? At 30K I had the dealer do it, but they told me I should do it as you just drain and fill. The car now has 65K on it and I would like to do it myself. I have the service manual, but it doesn't say anything about the tool to remove the plug.
Is a 3/8" socket square drive-fits into the hole perfectly. You may need to tap it a bit with a hammer to break it loose. Also change it when the vehicle is at operating temp-ATF will be really hot and squirts out cause it is very thin-not under pressure-get any on you and you are really badly burned. You will need one of those tranny fill thingies-a funnel with a flexible tube attached to the end-you fill thru the check hole and only use Honda ATF. Actually easier to change atf than oil-don't need to jack it up-takes a really skinny dude to slide under a honda.
Comments
How did they do it? Mine was welded but not cured. The vehicle is in the service now and they are taking it apart as we speak. It was supposed to be test driven and fixed in a day!
I am glad to hear that you are happy Honda owner again.
If feels like heating from the lower leg isn't warm enough, it almost feels like NO HEAT is coming out.
Does anyone have this problem??
Let me know.
James,
I thought my 03 had that heating problem until I noticed my 89 did the same thing.
When the temp goes up above 20F, then I can feel the hot air.
Why not?
jelly
Again, not a big issue, just a nitpick (for those of you who get your dander up when someone points out a dislike...)
Don't close the vents beside the windows as you will get the side windows fogging/icing up alot quicker.
Try the settings for defoger&legs or only legs to get more air to your legs. This works really well for me.
The heat in my 04' Ex V6 is amazing. -30 C outside with a windchill of -45 and I'm just scorching in the car. I have to reduce the heat or my hands feel like they are burning.
I've also got heated seats and it gets REALY warm as well.
Good luck.
However, I prefer it being underheated to being overheated (makes me sleepy).
The heat is great everywhere else, including the seat heaters.
Car pulling to the left and right sides issue:
Try and see if dealer can fix. If all is testing OK, then it's those darned low resistance rolling tires. I've changed mine to winter tires and ALL the pulling has gone away.
Cheers
About the tires causing the pulling/drifitng issues. Are you referring to the stock tires on the 03-04 accords also, I think they are michelins on all sedans. So this drifting can be attributed to low resistance tires?
What are low resistance tires anyways?
Just as I would come to a stop, the tires would pull even harder to the side, depending on the slope in the road. Even when I was stopped slowly. I knew of this issue when buying the model but it was not enough to turn me away. I knew the car was just too good otherwise. I also knew that I could change the tires and it probably would go away...and it did.
I have the Michelin Actic Alpins on them now.
Cheers..
It's tires that are designed to give you high mileage. They roll a lot easier..with less resistance.. and hence better milage.
Cheers..
Something is wrong-maybe just a valve out of adjustment-would not drive it much till you can have someone who knows these engines to listen to the ping. Let us know what you find.
kind of also has a rotten egg type of smell...
not nice at all...
Other places say that premium is waste if manual calls for regular.
Manual does say minimum 87, not required, i dont know anymore!
Any thoughts?
The v6 has a dual-stage knock sensor and can adjust timing and utilize higer octane to produce a tiny bit more hp.
The 4-cyl gains nothing.
I fill up full tank, then it only runs about 300 miles to empty tank.
Does anyone feel the same ?
What do you think about the MPGs?
when you say it went 300 miles till an empty tank, i assume you didn't actually run out of gas right? thus yo shouldn't asssume you're not getting 24/34 gas mileage.
am i nuts?
If you have that consider your driving conditions and style. Calculate your real mileage based on how much you fill up and actual miles driven between fillups.
I drive my car rather infrequently and 30% City/70% highway. I go about 360 miles on a tank before the gas light comes on. That has always averaged about 29.5 mpg. I wish I was getting 34 also.
What are you actually getting?
5000k is 5,000,000 or 5 million miles. Thats a lot of miles!
But those Hondas are up to it. Check CR ratings!!!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I think the battery, tires, breaks and muffler are NOT covered by the extended warrantee.
I did not get one but you should think what is best for you. When was the last time you spent $900 on auto repairs between 36k & 72k miles (in your case 60k miles) that was not one of the above repairs?
1) The original factory warranty covers the car as best as possible, except that it doesn't provide a free loaner during overnight warranty service.
2) An extended warranty upfront therefore unncessarily duplicates the factory warranty until the 3/36 point for the Accord, with the exception of the free loaner.
3) Major consideration: if the extended warranty is non-Honda provided (meaning one of those 3rd party all-brands warrantors) and the provider shuts down before the term is up, a pro-rated refund is obviously in doubt (oxymoron ?).
4) If for some reason the car needs to be sold earlier than planned, the used car market gives little consideration to an extended warranty.
5) Even if 4) is not the case, one can buy an extended warranty shortly before the original runs out, at about 35 months / 35k miles. The price of the extended warranty may even be lower then !
My advice: unless the free loaner is vitally important (probably not since the Accord isn't prone to warranty work), bank/invest the money, buy the E.W. before the original factory warranty ends, and come out ahead.
I bet it will be low. If it is, fill it to the neck and fill the reservoir to between Hi and Low.
I can't believe they would try to charge for fixing what shouldn't have gone wrong on a brand new car, no matter what brand it is... they get paid by the company for the service under warranty.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Check the paper work you hopefully got from the dealer-can't believe a honda service guy would not give you the code. Have always had good luck with honda service people-can't say the same about the sales side though except for the small town dealers.
Should I consider another Honda/Accord? (I was thinking of a Toyota Highlander.) But, my 01 v6 accord (top of the line) isn't worth too much and interest rates are lower than when I purchased. New car = new warantee; I thought I knew what I was buying the last time.
I looked at restyled 03 Accord when they came in and it was much nicer than my 01, so I'm sure the 04 is even nicer. But is it better?
Thank you.
They gotta be kidding me!!
Find yourself another Honda service.