I don't think that Anonymous was analyzing all the brake problems, just giving some info about the one particular symtom that was described in the previous post. Anonymous is correct about rust forming on the rotors overnight if the car sits outside or I have had rust on the rotors when it was garaged, if I had just washed it and parked it. And, ALL the brake problems that I have seen posted here have delt with the 03 models and Honda seems to have fixed it.
You guys are funny. So let me get this straight ... I can't say that my Accord doesn't have problems because this is a problems forum but when someone has a problem (a rubbing noise that goes away with use does sound like brake rust to me) and I suggest what could be the solution then you get all in a tizzy about that too. Okaaaay.....
Read any forum here on Edmunds and you will see that there is no "perfect" car. Every car has a chance of having problems. However, it has been shown that over the long haul the Accord will be one of the most problem-free vehicles you can own. When the 98 Accord came out people were convinced Honda quality was deteriorating then as well. So far there has been no evidence of this either. Neither is there evidence that the 03+ generation of Accord is any more defect-prone than prior generations. People also have many more avenues to vent about even the slightest problem. There was no Edmunds in 1990 so we can't compare complaints from then to complaints of the 03 Accord.
"Read any forum here on Edmunds and you will see that there is no "perfect" car."
My car doesn't have problems either, but I don't keep saying it every time someone says theirs does have one of the known problems...
"1990 so we can't compare complaints from then to complaints of the 03 Accord."
JD Powers does have data on complaints. Last summer on one of the Accord discussions someone linked to the page. Does someone have the link to JD Powers inital problems data???
"Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc., is the highest-ranking corporation in the 2003 IQS, followed by Porsche Cars North America, Inc., BMW of North America and American Honda Motor Co. Lexus is the top-ranked nameplate.
At the model level, Toyota Motor Sales vehicles rank highest in six segments, Ford Motor Company vehicles rank highest in five, General Motors Corp. in three and American Honda and DaimlerChrysler vehicles each rank highest in one segment."
"Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc., is the highest-ranking corporation in the 2003 IQS, followed by Porsche Cars North America, Inc., BMW of North America and American Honda Motor Co. Lexus is the top-ranked nameplate.
At the model level, Toyota Motor Sales vehicles rank highest in six segments, Ford Motor Company vehicles rank highest in five, General Motors Corp. in three and American Honda and DaimlerChrysler vehicles each rank highest in one segment."
Here is J.D. Powers' rating of the 2003 Accord sedan (scoring system at bottom). This is presumably based on a broad survey of customers, though it's not stated whether it's an initial survey or a survey of owners a few months or a year out.
5 = Among the best 4 = Better than most 3 = Does not really stand out 2 = The rest
Purely as a basis for comparison and indicator of what these numbers may mean -- full disclosure note: I do not own either of these cars and have no dog in this hunt -- here are the numbers for the 03 Camry:
It seems safest to look at the individual ratings for a model, rather than the overall ratings for a corporation or manufacturer. There can be a big variation in quality between models from one manufacturer (for example, Jetta vs. Passat, Mercedes C-level sedans vs. E-level sedans).
I wonder whether the high Lexus ratings elevated Toyota's ratings overall. I would think that Acura ratings would do the same for Honda. I'm assuming that the Toyota corporation rating included Lexus, and that the Honda corporation rating included Acura.
Here is J.D. Powers' rating of the 2003 Accord sedan (scoring system at bottom). This is presumably based on a broad survey of customers, though it's not stated whether it's an initial survey or a survey of owners a few months or a year out.
5 = Among the best 4 = Better than most 3 = Does not really stand out 2 = The rest
Purely as a basis for comparison and indicator of what these numbers may mean -- full disclosure note: I do not own either of these cars and have no dog in this hunt -- here are the numbers for the 03 Camry:
Sounds like the bulbs are burnt out in your clock and cruise control. Both can be replaced by removing the housing with a flathead screwdriver. I don't recall if the tabs are on the top and bottom or the sides of the housing. Haven't had to replace the clock light, but the little green cruise light is about $13 through the Honda service dept.
So.....if you add all those numbers and then divide by 9 to get an average......does the answer mean that Power is saying that the Accord in question is a mediocre sedan or am I misinterpreting the ratings numbers?
I find the Power numbers interesting to say the least in light of the recent comments about the Accord which I read in Consumers' Reports!
My girl friend had complained a problem of hard to remove the key on her 95 accord EX after the ignition was off. I did a search on this site, and went out to buy a Haynes repair manual on how to adjust the gear shifting cable under the gear position box. Followed the instruction, the fix was a success. After 100k miles, the cable was out of alignment. So just want to say thanks to every one, especially auburn63 for his indepth knowlege about honda.
Lithium Grease is not good for this application. Use pure silicone grease {no petroleum distillates} or Lexols vinylex spray from the auto stores. Its for vinyl, rubber, moulding etc, Use a rag for the Vinylex and your fingr for the silicone apply everywhere you see rubber moulding.
Thanks blane for the URL. Need to get my Accord in for a couple of recalls (Ignition). I also found a couple of TSBs for my Nissan Maxima, and upon further research found a site called ALLDATA that provides TSBs and "instuctions" for repairs at what seems a reasonable price, $24.95/year. Anyone tried this, and if so is it worth it?
Alldata is excellent for TSB title/summary for Hondas, but you can't get full TSBs from them for Hondas. Use the model year scroll bar at the bottom of the screen to get started.
After weeks of the rattles consuming my thoughts and attention, I decided to set aside time to fix things myself. I'm pleased to report that the rattles are gone.
1.) A-Pillar Rattle Over Bumps/Rough Road I removed both of the A-Pillar Covers by simply prying off the cover with a flat head screwdriver covered in electrical tape. It is held on by 2 clips near the top of the A-pillar (closer to the roof). The cover sinks about 0.5" into the dash. After removing, I lined every edge with adhesive backed felt ($0.87 / sheet from Wal Mart). I just cut the felt into thin strips and stuck the strips onto every edge/surface that could possibly meet another surface. I noticed that there were already bits of felt applied to certain areas as well as some foam in the bottom of the pillar cover, albeit a little sloppily installed. After reinstalling the A-pillar covers, all rattles from those areas ceased.
2.) Window rattling/cracking/crunching Everybody knows the "tap down" method to relieve the pressure at the top of the window. This worked for me to a degree but the underlying cause is the rubber window seal rubbing against the painted metal of the door on the inside, not the window itself. The seal can be pulled out a little and silicone lubricant can be used on this seal-- the trick is, it needs to be on the side that will rub against the door on the inside.
Car is now silent on all road surfaces and a lot more fun to drive. However my hearing is still acutely tuned to these rattles-- the 'temporary fix' of lubing up the window seals doesn't settle my mind. Hopefully the rubber will just soften over time.
"Alldata is excellent for TSB title/summary for Hondas, but you can't get full TSBs from them for Hondas."
So American Honda has restricted TSB access. Seems they don't want customers fixing their own vehicles, or perhaps they think it will limit people from coming in to dealers to get TSBs fixed under warranty. Either way, seems pretty lousy of Honda. Looks like my next will be a Toyota or Nissan again.
Has anyone had any luck fixing a rattle coming from the sliding sun shade? Mine rattles when it is open but not when it is closed. Not a huge deal and it only happens intermittently (usually when it is cold out). Other wise LOVE the car ('03 EX-L manual with nav), no real problems after about 14K miles.
Mine does that, too, but I don't have a fix. It doesn't seem to matter which open position it's in.
It's not a big deal during the winter here in Chicago, but I might try to deal with it when we start to get more sun.
I also noticed that the passenger seat headrest rattles if it's raised and there's no one in the seat. Also not a big deal, but I have to remember to put it down again after someone has raised it, if there won't be someone in the seat.
That might be fixable with some felting, if I could only remember these things when I have time to fix them.
Sorry if this is repetitive to some, I couldn't find an exact answer for this problem when I searched back.
I hear an intermittent squealing noise from the front wheels/axle/clutch area as I disengage the clutch when I go from neutral into 1st, and less so when I go from 1st into 2nd. I think it happens when I release the clutch quickly and have a lot of pressure on the gas pedal. It also seems more pronounced in cold weather, and also typically only when the car is first started.
The dealer fixed the problem the first time by greasing "something," but I can't remember exactly what and can't find the receipt that describes it and the dealer has since switched computer systems and lost my previous history.
I have an intermittent problem with my 2003 Accord failing to respond to accelerator input. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Mostly from a dead stop you can press the accelerator with no response of any kind. No movement and no tach. Once you let off and press again the car will usually respond.
Does the pedal move freely, or does it appear stuck? If sticky, could be your throttle body needs cleaning. See post #4679. If the pedal is moving freely but nothing happening, its something different.
I'm betting that you have the v6, because it has 'drive by wire' throttle.
This is likely a problem with the throttle position sensor. The 4-cyl has a mechanical connection to the throttle and if it completely failed to respond, it would likely continue. Since the V6 is completely electronic, the sensor could fail or be slow to respond, so that when you released the throttle and tried again, it might be able to then send it's input to the throttle computer.
Definitely needs to go to your dealer's service dept RIGHT AWAY. Imagine making a turn in traffic and loosing your throttle completely! Could be very dangerous.
I have a 4 cylinder 1996 5-speed Accord with 36,000 miles on it. I am the original owner. Yesterday I noticed that the clutch was soft. As I drove, the clutch got a little firmer. Today, the clutch was soft again (sometimes it actually stuck a little) and I am now really worried that I need a new clutch. 36,000 miles seems like nothing, but I do a lot of city driving. Is it likely that this is the problem or could it be something less serious? Before I take it into a dealership or two for diagnosis and repair, can anyone offer me (a lady who doesn't know a lot about car repairs) any advice? Is there anything I should check myself before I turn it over to a mechanic? This is the first problem I have had with this car. Thank you!
I seriously doubt it's your clutch unless you do full throttle starts constantly. You probably have at least 50,000 miles of driving left on your current clutch. There are a number of things it could be, but I think you will be able to get it fixed for $200 plus or minus a $100. There is nothing you can do except take it to a shop that you trust. Remember Honda has higher labor rates than an independent shop. If you don't know a good place to go, then bite the bullet and let your Honda dealer do the work. Good luck!
'99 4 cyl w/84K miles Check engine went on recently shortly after fill up. I definetly turned cap enough - but possibly went too far on topping off. Light went off two days later on way to dealer. Today (2 wks later) engine light back on - gas gauge down to 1/8. In between, engine lamp has been off - gas has generally been kept between 1/2 to 3/4 (several fills). The two times it was on - gas level was at each end extreme.
Before I reschedule to dealer - What is chance I simply have bad gas cap? Is new cap worth a try? Thanks for any insight.
If you vehicle is not under any warranty suggest you first take it to a Autozone and get them to read the cel code with their reader-it is free of charge and only takes a minute. If it turns out to be something related to the emissions system-it could be under some kind of extended warranty-you can find out here. If not you at least know what the problem area is before going to the dealer. My honda dealer charges either 60 or 80 bucks to read the cel code.
A new gas cap from honda cost me around $6-not a biggie. Also do not top off your tank-according to some it will damage some parts of your emission system-used to top off all the time-no more-honda replaced several parts of my emissions system under extended warranty.
I assume the vehicle is not running any differently-also keep track of the gas mileage-if the primary O2 sensor goes-your mileage will drop by about 10%.
.....what is this "topping off" gas tank that people talk about? what does that mean, and if it says NOT TO, why do people do it anyway? am i doing it, and not even realizing it? when i get gas, i let the gas nozzle shut off automatically, then i close the cap, turn a few clicks, grab my receipt, and drive away.
Thanks for the info. I will buy new cap and give it a try for that price.
I usually pay cash for gas. For the last 5 years I've been rounding up the price another .25 or .50. It made sense rather then fumble with pennies. Neither Honda owner manual nor any other notice said top-off is bad. It is only in recent few weeks I've heard it to be bad (from reading these posts). So I quit doing it and will probably go to gas cards.
I wonder why owners manual doesn't state this warning (at least '99 doesn't).
bd21, thank you for your advice. I took the car in this morning (today I had to fight to shift the car into gear--thank goodness I hit no stop signs!!!). The diagnosis: I needed to have the clutch slave cylinder replaced. It apparently was leaking and the fluid was low enough to allow an air bubble in. They drained the fluid and replaced the slave cylinder. Total damage: $150. Not as bad as I thought. Thanks again!
Glad to here you got it fixed. That's what I figured it would be and the price sounds fair. I usually hate to say exactly what it is, because there are always other options and it's hard to say without actually looking at the car.
I just picked up my car from Honda Service. Car has been re-welded as per TSB 03-58 Sep 23, 2003. I was told that the noise was gone now. However, I do not feel any change, noise is still there. Relatively easy fix as I was told is obviously not that easy. I will have to go to plan B now. I will keep you posted.
I own a 98 Accord with a 4 cyl. engine. I want to change the transmission fluid myself. Is the process a simple drain and fill or is the change more complicated? Also, is it absolutely necessary to use Honda transmission fluid or is an alternative satisfactory?
You do not have to use honda atf-but there is a very distinct possibility of a new transmission in your future if you don't. Honda atf has a special formulation and additives designed for the clutches used by honda-when this additive is not present-it won't shift very well. Why use anything else-honda atf is only about 3.50/quart and it takes less than 3 quarts.
To change it drive the car for at least 30 miles to get the atf hot, when you park it turn the steering wheel as far to the right as you can. The square part of a 3/8" ratchet drive just fits into the drain plug which is on the passenger side bottom of the tranny drain plug. If this is the first time you have removed the plug-you will probably need to tap it lightly with a hammer-lefty loosey, righty tighty. When taking the plug out be very careful-the atf is extremely hot and squirts out - it is not under pressure but is very thin and if you get it on your skin-bad burn fast. Use a new washer which costs about a buck from the dealer-atf is way thinner than oil.
Clean off the plug-it is magnetized to attract gunk and metal. You will need a funnel with a hose attached-any of the aftermarket parts stores carry them to add the atf-it goes in the atf fluid level check hole. Check your manual for the amount of fluid required and check the level with the car sitting on level ground.
The manual says to change atf every 90K except in severe conditions-well I drive 95% on highway and got a cel at 70K or so-had burnt atf. Change your atf every 30K-cause you are only getting about half of the fluid out each time. Also I don't think the "tranny flush" procedures is a good idea-don't think they get all of the "solvent" out of the tranny and if it ain't broke don't fix it.
A new honda tranny can cost up to 5K with rebuilding around 2K if you know who can repair them. Don't think that includes any of the franchise places.
To me changing atf is easier than changing oil on a honda-no jack required.
A bit of info before the horror story. Mine is a 2001 4cyl automatic LX model for which Honda had extended the tranny warranty to 100K.
Knowing about the 6th Gen tranny issues, I've been draining/refilling the tranny fluid every 15-20K and have only used the Honda ATF-Z1 since this Accord first rolled off the dealers lot new in December of 2000.
Most of my miles are interstate cruising @70mph on mostly flat terrain.
At 112K my tranny started to leak from the axle seals during an unusual extended cold snap for our area. This fluid had been drained/refilled at 101K previously and at that time the undercarriage was bone dry and no shifting issues were present.
I immediately drained the fluid and to my shock it was full of metal. Almost immediatedly thereafter, I started noticing shifting irregularities and it threw P1751 (2-3 shift malfunction) and P0740 (TCC lockup failure) codes. Thanks for the codes Autozone.
I brought it to the local Cottman for the free inspection and they confirmed my fear, worn carrier bearings in the differential and metal through out the transmission. BTW, you need to unweight the front wheels in order to test for this condition. They quoted $2500 for a repair price.
I called Honda and explained my situation. Because I was outside of the 100K extension I didn't expect much, but thought it would be worth a try. The end result was a Honda supplied remanufactured unit and installation for less than 1/3 of what the dealers normally charge and much less expensive than having Cottman repair the old one.
I'm disappointed that this tranny failed at this mileage, especially considering the excellent maintenance and the easy (cruising) miles. But I'm also encouraged that Honda seems to believe their product shouldn't fail shortly after the 100K mark and is willing to discount the repair.
The moral to this story is if you have a 6th Gen auto, you need to have the dealer do an inspection of the differential bearings before you pass the 100K extended warranty limit, even if you experience no transmission issues.
I have a 2003 lx auto. and there is a virbation I feel on my steering wheel when I am stop at a red light. I only have 15K on my car and am wondering. Does anyone else have this problem? Is this something I should worry about? It seems to virbrate at around 600 rpms. Should I take it to my dealer. Who is a good honda dealer in philly?
I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX-L with 78,000 miles on it. Off and on it makes this low intermittent noice when it is idling, like a "bup" sound. Other than that it drives great. I recently had two oxygen sensors replaced on it. Have any one else had this problem and may know what is causing it?
At about 90K my 99 Accord developed a knock, most noticeable under no load at 1000-1200 rpm. Sounds like it's coming from the upper end of the block, below the head, near No. 4 cylinder. Also, it will occasionally knock loudly for a few seconds on startup, but not every time. Dealer dropped the pan and pulled the head, took off the cradle and visually inspected some of the rod and crank bearings. This engine has been maintained meticulously, and everything was beautifully clean. You could still see honing marks on the cylinder walls. Without gaging anything, he put it back together and pronounced it healthy!
Obviously, the dealer is wrong. Anyone had similar noises?
I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX-L with 78,000 miles on it. Off and on it makes this low intermittent noice when it is idling, like a "bup" sound. Other than that it drives great. I recently had two oxygen sensors replaced on it. Have any one else had this problem and may know what is causing it?
Hi, I have a couple of questions and would appreciate any input you could give. I will be moving my 2002dx accord from Puerto Rico to the US (most likely NY). Maybe this is an idiotic question but would a NY dealer honor the warranty on my car? Secondly - I was wondering if would I have to have the thermostat changed or are they all the same no matter the climate? Third - The stupid check engine light has illuminated its ugly head - I read in the discussion that the egr had been recalled on some vehicles - but i haven't received any notice - how would i be able to verify if there were a recall directly through honda? Unfortunately dealerships down here are not always honest. Thanks for any input.
Hey I recently moved from Georgia to New Mexico while i live in GA i noticed some Hondas who's third brake light blinked when the brakes were on. My question is this and don't laugh to hard but how do you do that? Is it a special light or a do i have to do something with wires(if so i give up) oh and if it matters i have a 97 Accord.
Comments
Read any forum here on Edmunds and you will see that there is no "perfect" car. Every car has a chance of having problems. However, it has been shown that over the long haul the Accord will be one of the most problem-free vehicles you can own. When the 98 Accord came out people were convinced Honda quality was deteriorating then as well. So far there has been no evidence of this either. Neither is there evidence that the 03+ generation of Accord is any more defect-prone than prior generations. People also have many more avenues to vent about even the slightest problem. There was no Edmunds in 1990 so we can't compare complaints from then to complaints of the 03 Accord.
My car doesn't have problems either, but I don't keep saying it every time someone says theirs does have one of the known problems...
"1990 so we can't compare complaints from then to complaints of the 03 Accord."
JD Powers does have data on complaints. Last summer on one of the Accord discussions someone linked to the page.
Does someone have the link to JD Powers inital problems data???
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Is that a tizzy? I'm not even sure what a tizzy is, but I don't think I got "in" one.
http://www.jdpa.com/studies/pressrelease.asp?StudyID=736&CatI- D=1
Here's what it said about the top brands:
"Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc., is the highest-ranking corporation in the 2003 IQS, followed by Porsche Cars North America, Inc., BMW of North America and American Honda Motor Co. Lexus is the top-ranked nameplate.
At the model level, Toyota Motor Sales vehicles rank highest in six segments, Ford Motor Company vehicles rank highest in five, General Motors Corp. in three and American Honda and DaimlerChrysler vehicles each rank highest in one segment."
http://www.jdpa.com/studies/pressrelease.asp?StudyID=736&CatI- D=1
Here's what it said about the top brands:
"Toyota Motor Sales, U.S.A., Inc., is the highest-ranking corporation in the 2003 IQS, followed by Porsche Cars North America, Inc., BMW of North America and American Honda Motor Co. Lexus is the top-ranked nameplate.
At the model level, Toyota Motor Sales vehicles rank highest in six segments, Ford Motor Company vehicles rank highest in five, General Motors Corp. in three and American Honda and DaimlerChrysler vehicles each rank highest in one segment."
Mechanical Quality = 3
Comfort = 3
Feature & Accessory Quality = 4
Features & Instrument Panel = 4
Body & Interior Quality = 2
Style = 3
Overall Quality = 3
Overall Appeal = 3
Performance = 4
5 = Among the best
4 = Better than most
3 = Does not really stand out
2 = The rest
Purely as a basis for comparison and indicator of what these numbers may mean -- full disclosure note: I do not own either of these cars and have no dog in this hunt -- here are the numbers for the 03 Camry:
Mechanical Quality = 3
Comfort = 3
Feature & Accessory Quality = 4
Features & Instrument Panel = 3
Body & Interior Quality = 5
Style = 2
Overall Quality = 4
Overall Appeal = 3
Performance = 3
Source: http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/index.jsp#
I wonder whether the high Lexus ratings elevated Toyota's ratings overall. I would think that Acura ratings would do the same for Honda. I'm assuming that the Toyota corporation rating included Lexus, and that the Honda corporation rating included Acura.
Mechanical Quality = 3
Comfort = 3
Feature & Accessory Quality = 4
Features & Instrument Panel = 4
Body & Interior Quality = 2
Style = 3
Overall Quality = 3
Overall Appeal = 3
Performance = 4
5 = Among the best
4 = Better than most
3 = Does not really stand out
2 = The rest
Purely as a basis for comparison and indicator of what these numbers may mean -- full disclosure note: I do not own either of these cars and have no dog in this hunt -- here are the numbers for the 03 Camry:
Mechanical Quality = 3
Comfort = 3
Feature & Accessory Quality = 4
Features & Instrument Panel = 3
Body & Interior Quality = 5
Style = 2
Overall Quality = 4
Overall Appeal = 3
Performance = 3
Source: http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/index.jsp#
The most accurate comparison, though, would be between the 03 Accord and the most recent first-year model Camry.
And that should probably take place in a different thread....
Haven't had to replace the clock light, but the little green cruise light is about $13 through the Honda service dept.
by 9 to get an average......does the answer mean
that Power is saying that the Accord in question
is a mediocre sedan or am I misinterpreting the
ratings numbers?
I find the Power numbers interesting to say the
least in light of the recent comments about the
Accord which I read in Consumers' Reports!
berbel
How about a '93 Nissan Maxima?
Many thanks in advance.
a.) If I cannot find ShinEtsu Grease, can Lithium grease or another Silicone Spray do? If not, what is a suitable replacement?
b.) Where do I apply the grease? On the top edge of the window, or do I just take a finger and smear the top seal?
You can research TSBs here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm
Always hopefull to be of some help, so glad I was in your case...
Need to get my Accord in for a couple of recalls (Ignition).
I also found a couple of TSBs for my Nissan Maxima, and upon further research found a site called ALLDATA that provides TSBs and "instuctions" for repairs at what seems a reasonable price, $24.95/year.
Anyone tried this, and if so is it worth it?
http://www.alldata.com/recalls/#
Also, Safety Alerts can be useful.
http://www.safetyalerts.com/default.htm
1.) A-Pillar Rattle Over Bumps/Rough Road
I removed both of the A-Pillar Covers by simply prying off the cover with a flat head screwdriver covered in electrical tape. It is held on by 2 clips near the top of the A-pillar (closer to the roof). The cover sinks about 0.5" into the dash. After removing, I lined every edge with adhesive backed felt ($0.87 / sheet from Wal Mart). I just cut the felt into thin strips and stuck the strips onto every edge/surface that could possibly meet another surface. I noticed that there were already bits of felt applied to certain areas as well as some foam in the bottom of the pillar cover, albeit a little sloppily installed. After reinstalling the A-pillar covers, all rattles from those areas ceased.
2.) Window rattling/cracking/crunching
Everybody knows the "tap down" method to relieve the pressure at the top of the window. This worked for me to a degree but the underlying cause is the rubber window seal rubbing against the painted metal of the door on the inside, not the window itself. The seal can be pulled out a little and silicone lubricant can be used on this seal-- the trick is, it needs to be on the side that will rub against the door on the inside.
Car is now silent on all road surfaces and a lot more fun to drive. However my hearing is still acutely tuned to these rattles-- the 'temporary fix' of lubing up the window seals doesn't settle my mind. Hopefully the rubber will just soften over time.
So American Honda has restricted TSB access.
Seems they don't want customers fixing their own vehicles, or perhaps they think it will limit people from coming in to dealers to get TSBs fixed under warranty.
Either way, seems pretty lousy of Honda.
Looks like my next will be a Toyota or Nissan again.
It's not a big deal during the winter here in Chicago, but I might try to deal with it when we start to get more sun.
I also noticed that the passenger seat headrest rattles if it's raised and there's no one in the seat. Also not a big deal, but I have to remember to put it down again after someone has raised it, if there won't be someone in the seat.
That might be fixable with some felting, if I could only remember these things when I have time to fix them.
I hear an intermittent squealing noise from the front wheels/axle/clutch area as I disengage the clutch when I go from neutral into 1st, and less so when I go from 1st into 2nd. I think it happens when I release the clutch quickly and have a lot of pressure on the gas pedal. It also seems more pronounced in cold weather, and also typically only when the car is first started.
The dealer fixed the problem the first time by greasing "something," but I can't remember exactly what and can't find the receipt that describes it and the dealer has since switched computer systems and lost my previous history.
Any ideas? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
If sticky, could be your throttle body needs cleaning. See post #4679.
If the pedal is moving freely but nothing happening, its something different.
I'm betting that you have the v6, because it has 'drive by wire' throttle.
This is likely a problem with the throttle position sensor. The 4-cyl has a mechanical connection to the throttle and if it completely failed to respond, it would likely continue. Since the V6 is completely electronic, the sensor could fail or be slow to respond, so that when you released the throttle and tried again, it might be able to then send it's input to the throttle computer.
Definitely needs to go to your dealer's service dept RIGHT AWAY. Imagine making a turn in traffic and loosing your throttle completely! Could be very dangerous.
Check engine went on recently shortly after fill up. I definetly turned cap enough - but possibly went too far on topping off. Light went off two days later on way to dealer. Today (2 wks later) engine light back on - gas gauge down to 1/8. In between, engine lamp has been off - gas has generally been kept between 1/2 to 3/4 (several fills). The two times it was on - gas level was at each end extreme.
Before I reschedule to dealer - What is chance I simply have bad gas cap? Is new cap worth a try? Thanks for any insight.
dealer installed EGR kit... fixed problem. warranty item i guess for under 80K miles cars.
A new gas cap from honda cost me around $6-not a biggie. Also do not top off your tank-according to some it will damage some parts of your emission system-used to top off all the time-no more-honda replaced several parts of my emissions system under extended warranty.
I assume the vehicle is not running any differently-also keep track of the gas mileage-if the primary O2 sensor goes-your mileage will drop by about 10%.
Let us know what you find.
I usually pay cash for gas. For the last 5 years I've been rounding up the price another .25 or .50. It made sense rather then fumble with pennies. Neither Honda owner manual nor any other notice said top-off is bad. It is only in recent few weeks I've heard it to be bad (from reading these posts). So I quit doing it and will probably go to gas cards.
I wonder why owners manual doesn't state this warning (at least '99 doesn't).
"Topping off" is squeezing more fuel into the tank after the nozzle shuts off automatically. I.e. filling it to the top.
I will keep you posted.
Related messages: ..., #4568,..., #4573,...
To change it drive the car for at least 30 miles to get the atf hot, when you park it turn the steering wheel as far to the right as you can. The square part of a 3/8" ratchet drive just fits into the drain plug which is on the passenger side bottom of the tranny drain plug. If this is the first time you have removed the plug-you will probably need to tap it lightly with a hammer-lefty loosey, righty tighty. When taking the plug out be very careful-the atf is extremely hot and squirts out - it is not under pressure but is very thin and if you get it on your skin-bad burn fast. Use a new washer which costs about a buck from the dealer-atf is way thinner than oil.
Clean off the plug-it is magnetized to attract gunk and metal. You will need a funnel with a hose attached-any of the aftermarket parts stores carry them to add the atf-it goes in the atf fluid level check hole. Check your manual for the amount of fluid required and check the level with the car sitting on level ground.
The manual says to change atf every 90K except in severe conditions-well I drive 95% on highway and got a cel at 70K or so-had burnt atf. Change your atf every 30K-cause you are only getting about half of the fluid out each time.
Also I don't think the "tranny flush" procedures is a good idea-don't think they get all of the "solvent" out of the tranny and if it ain't broke don't fix it.
A new honda tranny can cost up to 5K with rebuilding around 2K if you know who can repair them. Don't think that includes any of the franchise places.
To me changing atf is easier than changing oil on a honda-no jack required.
Knowing about the 6th Gen tranny issues, I've been draining/refilling the tranny fluid every 15-20K and have only used the Honda ATF-Z1 since this Accord first rolled off the dealers lot new in December of 2000.
Most of my miles are interstate cruising @70mph on mostly flat terrain.
At 112K my tranny started to leak from the axle seals during an unusual extended cold snap for our area. This fluid had been drained/refilled at 101K previously and at that time the undercarriage was bone dry and no shifting issues were present.
I immediately drained the fluid and to my shock it was full of metal. Almost immediatedly thereafter, I started noticing shifting irregularities and it threw P1751 (2-3 shift malfunction) and P0740 (TCC lockup failure) codes. Thanks for the codes Autozone.
I brought it to the local Cottman for the free inspection and they confirmed my fear, worn carrier bearings in the differential and metal through out the transmission. BTW, you need to unweight the front wheels in order to test for this condition. They quoted $2500 for a repair price.
I called Honda and explained my situation. Because I was outside of the 100K extension I didn't expect much, but thought it would be worth a try. The end result was a Honda supplied remanufactured unit and installation for less than 1/3 of what the dealers normally charge and much less expensive than having Cottman repair the old one.
I'm disappointed that this tranny failed at this mileage, especially considering the excellent maintenance and the easy (cruising) miles. But I'm also encouraged that Honda seems to believe their product shouldn't fail shortly after the 100K mark and is willing to discount the repair.
The moral to this story is if you have a 6th Gen auto, you need to have the dealer do an inspection of the differential bearings before you pass the 100K extended warranty limit, even if you experience no transmission issues.
A manual tranny will have similiar damage from not enough oil in the case.
Obviously, the dealer is wrong. Anyone had similar noises?
My question is this and don't laugh to hard but how do you do that? Is it a special light or a do i have to do something with wires(if so i give up)
oh and if it matters i have a 97 Accord.