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Comments
Anyway, it was a pleasant experience after dealing with two guys from Subaru in the valley who lied to get me there but couldn't deliver what I wanted. So far I LOVE the car. It's a big improvement over my 15 year old volvo!
congratulations. I too replaced my 14 year old volvo w/xg350 about three years ago. It's amazing to see what you get for the almost same price paid for 14 years ago.
My volvo gave me many troubles during the first three years. I love my xg350 and I will probably buy new model(Azera) next time.
My new XG350L did that very thing last weekend at a Starbucks drive-through. I thought I had possibly put my food on the gas, but I really didn't think so.
Today I experienced the problem so many people have written about where the car won't go more than 10-15 mph briefly. I immediately drove it to the dealer but by the time I got there everything was fine and they were "unable to duplicate the problem." I am really frustrated because the car was purchased in August and only has 3700 miles on it. I replaced a 2000 Sonata that was one of the best cars I ever owned. I wanted to trade up to the XG because it is by far the most luxurious car you can buy for the money. I wish now I would have read this forum first - I might have looked elsewhere for a new car.
I have an XG 300 for five nightmare years and I will never buy this car or recommended it to anyone. The dealer most of the time can not fix the problem and the car stay there for sometime( a list of things that has been replaced on my car, input and out put speed sensors, mass airflow sensor, valve body, throttle body, computer, AC filters, etc) . I feel for you and just be careful and good luck.
PhDrashed
They have been sold for less. Maybe he'll do it for you.
Please let me know what you find out. My XG350 has 56,000 miles on it and this problem just happend to me as well.
Thank you, Arica
Good price yes. On Dec. 27, 2004 I started up my car however it would not move in any gear i put it in (drive,reverse etc) you guessed it. they cam and picked it up. Checked it out couldn't find anything. it happen again this past Dec. 27, 2005. same thing driving down the road all of a sudden the car would not MOVE. they came and got it now they want to charge to have it fix. I am about ready to trade in. it's a beatiful car I am now afraid to drive out of town because of this transmission. Has anyone out there had a problem like this?
Please try this:
First make sure there are no obstacles or people around the car:
Turn on the ignition, put the gear in reverse, let the car move a few feet without pressing the gas pedal, stop, keep your foot firmly pressed against the foot brake for a minute or so.
Nothing might happen but every now and then, the car will lurch violently for a few feet while your foot is still pressed firmly on the brakes.
Please try that every time you use the car, always make sure there are no obstacles around the car, also make sure no one will attempt to enter the car while experimenting.
If you experience that lurching please report back to me.
If you need to read about my experience and the injury the lurching caused please e-mail me.
What we don't like is less than stellar handling(more air in tires helps), narrower in back than front, when backing and parking, car ends up crooked.
Our '94 Caddy handled better and gave better gas milage.
Don't ever buy a new car in Hawaii. Couldn't get the dealer to come down. In Hawaii with only one dealer(at that time), it's a take it at our price or not at all thing. Had to pay full list. All Hawaii dealers play the game as we can't easily drive to another state like on the mainland. :mad:
Looking around the Web, there are at least 20 inventory vehicles of this model at various dealers around the Phoenix area. I have received quotes from some of these dealers ranging from $20,088 to $21,986 (+TTL). The dealership that quoted me $20,088 had an ad offering the vehicle at that price with an additional $2000 in rebates (for which I do not qualify) making the final ad price $18,088.
I have not made any offers as of yet. I am wondering now, since the vehicle is a year old, and depreciation is quite high on these models ($9263 first year, according to Edmunds), if some amount of depreciation should be taken into account in the final purchase price. Does anybody have a feeling or some knowledge on this?
I know the vehicles are still on the dealer's lot, and have never been titled, so they cannot be called "used", but my instincts tell me I shouldn't pay near the "new" price.
What say ye?
I wondered if anyway has replyed to your e-mail concerning you water leak issue you wrote about, in your 04 XG350?
I just bought (Dec. 28th 05) a 2005 XG350L and have seen some drops on the back seat, passengers side following rain. Not every rain we have had since I bought it.
I let if at dealer for the first weekend after I bought it for them to see why it was leaking. They said they left it sitting out in rain and ran water from hose on it with no leaking. They were nice, but suggested, water was perhaps coming in when when door was opened.
I had waer this morning for the second time, and I don't think anyone opened the back door following last nights rain.
Ison't know if they are right, or if it is wind along with the rain or what. I would be interested in you feedback?
Mark
Thanks
Looking at the first year depreciation here on Edmunds, I found that the depreciation rate was 37 percent of the TMV (before rebates). The TMV for the vehicle I am looking at is $24949; therefore depreciation would be $9231, leaving a residual value of $15718.
Reading around the Web, I have found that dealers will give you a deduct of about 15 cents per mile if you buy a demo vehicle. For most Depreciation and True Cost to Own calculations, Edmunds and other Auto Guide sites estimate 15000 miles per year. I figure you could give this amount back off of the depreciation value, because the vehicle has not been driven that amount while on the dealer's lot. This would give back to the dealer an amount of 15000 x .15 = $2250.
Therefore, my calculated value for the vehicle would be 15718 + 2250 = $17968
Hyundai still has a $3000 rebate on this model, so the purchase price would be 17968 - 3000 = $14968 +TTL
So, that's my thinking. As I said, I feel it is logical, but if it would get a positive response, I haven't the faintest notion. What does anyone else think?
Reply | E-mail Msg
Replying to: bomar60 (Jan 10, 2006 8:31 am)
Under $15,000 ? Sounds like a great price. You might want to add some $ back in to account for the new car warranty.
Buy a couple.
I know you'll enjoy them if you are not expecting sporty handling. Compared to most minivans, it may seem like a sports/luxury car.
If you think about it, that's actually only about $4000 less than you paid in January of 2005 (per your post). $4000 depreciation for the first year is actually pretty good for a Hyundai, don't your think? Can you tell what store you got your deal through? I believe you posted that you are in the Phoenix area. If you are, how is the XG350L in the summer? Does the A/C hold up? Ever have any overheating issues? I have seen very few of these vehicles tooling around the Phoenix area, so I am wondering if demand is very low, and therefore the dealers may be very motivated - which they should be anyway, considering it is a discontinued, year old model.
I was thinking about getting the 10/100 B2B Premium Warranty if I did buy the XG350L. Does anyone know what the price on that is? And, is it worth it?
I am expecting that the car will feel very luxurious to me. From everything I've read, I wouldn't expect a sports car's handling, but that is not what I am looking for. I have been cruising around in a 20 year old Burb and a 40 year old C20, so anything brand new is gonna feel great by comparison.
Also wondering exactly what the Doc fee covers? How much paperwork is there on a new car sale? I have never bought from a dealer, so I am not familiar with this portion. The approximate $300-$400 charge should cover at least 4 to 6 hours work, and I am sure there is not that much involved. Can anyone enlighten me regarding this? Also, if I pay cash, is there still a lot of paper work, or do they just sign over the title and send me on my merry way to get tags?
Thanks for all the help.
(by the way, do you sell State Farm insurance?)
You say, "...Also wondering exactly what the Doc fee covers? How much paperwork is there on a new car sale? I have never bought from a dealer, so I am not familiar with this portion. The approximate $300-$400 charge should cover at least 4 to 6 hours work, and I am sure there is not that much involved. Can anyone enlighten me regarding this? Also, if I pay cash, is there still a lot of paper work, or do they just sign over the title and send me on my merry way to get tags?..."
First, I'll address the doc fee issue:
Dealers say, "You, the buyer, OWE them the doc fee because they, the dealers, provide a valuable service to you, the buyer, so, of course, obviously, it's only fair, everyone would agree, etc, etc... they, the dealers, should and must be compensated for that most important and valuable service and ALL the LABOR it requires. It is simply a nominal service fee."
I say, "Hahaha. Hahahahaha! HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAA!"
A service? For whose benefit? It does not serve my interests.
Doc fee is just another profit center devised by dealers who have decided they can fleece the public for a few (hundred) dollars more than the agreed sale price. The little bit of time and/or money they spend to mail or electronically send information to the government is something they CHOOSE to do. It is in reality just another business overhead expense, similar to the electric bill, urinal cakes or lot rent. (I guess we are lucky they don't try to itemize those on the sales agreement too!)
I believe another reason they insist on taking control of the submission of the paperwork for the title and registration is to make it more difficult for a buyer to back out of the deal, even if that buyer never took possession of the car (drove it off the lot).
The dealers charge us a "Documentation Fee" because we let them get away with it. (Some states have accurately identified "doc fee" as a sham and prohibit or restrict such "fees".)
Since the doc fee ends up being a part of the price you pay and is really just dealer profit (not a fee for service to you) it should be included here when we compare prices of cars we've bought.
Actual money spent for tax, title and registration, and any other fees which must be paid to the local, county, state or federal government in connection with a car purchase should not be shown here for comparison purposes.
Anyone agree or disagree? If so, why?
As to which dealer I bought from... it really does not matter. I have bought new cars from many dealers in the Phoenix area and am satisfied with the final prices on almost every deal I've made. Usually I've made an offer to more than one dealer for each car I bought. I've paid as little as 56% of MSRP for a new current model. I'd guess not many buyers get deals equal to mine. I have been lucky.
Just figure out what you want to pay and let each dealer have a chance to make the sale.
The A/C in the XG350L I own is excellent. And, it has those rear A/C vents too! Get some 100% metal window film with a high heat rejection factor. Don't get dark film. Get the lightest you can with high heat rejection. And don't forget to grease up your seat leather every month when temps are above 100.
The motor has never overheated.
The XG has never been produced in great numbers, so that is why you don't see many on the street. In north Scottsdale, you'll see more Ferraris on the street than XGs.
It feels very luxurious to me. In a word, SMOOTH!
I did not buy the extended warranty. I'll probably replace the car within 4 years of purchase so I can sell it with the remaining factory warranty for the next owner.
Pretty much what I figured - the doc fee is a scam. I don't have a problem with paying a reasonable processing fee - maybe $50 or $75, but the $300 to $400 seems ridiculous. I have seen at least one Auto Buyer's Guide site that also states the doc fees shouldn't be over $50. Has anybody ever succesfully told the dealer they would not pay the high fee? Does anyone know if you can handle the titling and licensing stuff yourself if you make a cash deal with the dealer? That is the way it's always done when buying from a private party, I don't see why it can't work the same here. Unless the dealership doesn't actually have titles and has to go through some process to get one made up, printed, delivered, or something? Anybody have the scoop on this?
As for the depreciation, near as I can figure, Edmunds uses their TMV to calculate the depreciation.
Why do you recommend against a dark window film?
I have seen some sites and posts on forums that recommend faxing your proposal to various dealers. The sites suggest using one of their forms, which they are of course happy to sell to you. Has anyone used this method, and if so, do you have a copy of the form used? Or at least some info on the verbage to use when producing one of these? Also, was it successful?
P.S.
Nope, I don't sell insurance
I am wondering about this "unintended acceleration" issue. It seems to me that if this is happening, it is not only a throttle problem, but a failure of the braking system as well. Has anyone ever tried to intentionally make the vehicle do this? Is it possible to hold the brakes and intentionally give the vehicle enough throttle that you can overpower the brakes and make the car move?
We've all seen kids doing burnouts with their old V8 muscle cars. They pretty much stay in one spot even if they're putting their foot in it. The front brakes are keeping the car in place even though the rear tires are spinning like mad. Can anyone duplicate this in the XG? (I know it's a FWD, but you can burnout in those too) I'd like to hear if anyone has experimented with this. Maybe I will try it during my test drive...salesman should enjoy that...
My guess is its the electronic connection between the pedal and the engine throttle.
I took mine to the dealer the first time and they could not find a problem.
The 2nd time they replaced a wheel speed sensor. But I guess that was not the remedy because it happened one more time after that.
If anyone else has success with the pedal jab method, let us know. It may have been a fluke that it worked for me.
Winding mountain road at night... you can't see out your side window because of the dark tint. I had to roll mine down despite the cold and mine are not even very dark. Also, any time at night vision is severely reduced when looking through the dark tint.
The only reason I have medium dark tint on my car is because it was already on it when I bought the car. Otherwise, I would have taken it to a place and had the highest light transmission, all metal (except for the polyester film of course), high heat rejection film installed.
I wish dealers would not install it before the sale. It is time consuming and/or expensive to remove it. Removal costs more than installation.
Check some window film websites.
THERE'S NO DENYING that Hyundai's quality and reliability have improved steadily over the years. This is partially a result of keeping their cars simple, but that doesn't mean low tech.
Even though a cable is connected to the accelerator pedal, this vehicle is drive-by-wire. The cable leads to a pedal position sensor under the hood, and the powertrain control module (PCM) operates the throttle. The simplicity comes from the fact that, if required, the system can initialize itself (relearn) by turning the ignition key on and off in less then one second, then waiting 20 seconds with the key off.
The link to the article is below.
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/162005/156229/art- icle.pdf
I really liked the overall exterior impression of the car. Rich looking lines. Fit and finish seems top rate. The Powder White Pearl is a beautiful color. The Black Obsidian was also very nice, but I would never own one. Bright Silver didn't work as well as I thought it would before seeing it. No other colors were on the lot.
Minor issues with the exterior: Head and tail lights are just so-so, but not a deal breaker. Could do without the chrome trim along lower part of the doors. The sunroof air deflector looked sorta cheap - only part on the exterior of the car that I could say that about.
Interior looked real good, although I don't really care for fake wood. Everything seemed nicely laid out. Instruments were good, I had no problem seeing everything - no glare that I noticed. The stereo and a/c controls were well within reach from a driving position. S.O. said she had a hard time reading the a/c readout due to glare, but it was not an issue for me, so that could be the different driving positions. Again, fit and finish are great. Leather is nice and seams are well sewn. Head room was just enough in front and in back for my 6 foot frame.
Our problems with the interior: Front Seats seem VERY hard. Armrests on front doors are not long enough/positioned correctly and the front window sills are a bit too high to comfortably rest your arm on - these two along with the hard seats could make a long drive uncomfortable - Can anyone verify? Front Cup Holders - iffy at best. Wood on steering wheel is slippery - would rather have the full leather wrapped steering wheel that is in the base model. Interior storage seems minimal - again, could be a problem on a trip. The steering column tilt adjustments should be infinite-position instead of the click-in-a-notch type. This would allow for exact positioning where I want it, not just at the notch that is closest. Would also like audio controls on steering wheel, but not absolutely necessary.
Test drive went very well. PLENTY of power for our driving habits. No real issue with the throttle. Took a couple of starts to get used to the feel of the pedal, and then was no problem. The car DOES move out quickly if you don't ease into the pedal. Handling was fine for us and our day-to-day city driving. We're not taking the car on any road rallys through Italy. Braking was good. Had to slow quickly behind a lane changer on the freeway, and the brakes brought the speed down right away with no swerving or veering. I WAS able to lock up the brakes in a vacant parking lot, which surprised me.
Only driving complaint - and it is a pretty important one - rear visibility. The rear-view mirror did not give a wide enough angle of view for my tastes. When backing up and looking over the shoulder, the rear headrests tend to block some of the view. This was an even bigger problem for S.O., who is a foot shorter.
So, overall, I am very impressed. I really like the car at this point. I am going to be talking with the salesman again to see if we can maybe take the car out again for a couple hour drive into the hills to check out the seat issue and other long-trip items. I will post impressions again after that.
Overall, I'm satisfied with the car. I keep the Auto feature on for the headlights and noticed that during dawn or dusk periods the lights will come on then go off then come on as though it can't make-up it's mind. It happens on very cloudy days sometimes too.
The other bummer is the goose-neck hinges on the trunk that can crush luggage. Other reviews I found on websites speak of the new gas-pressurized struts that replaced the goose-neck hinge on the 2005 XG's; however, no such documentation is found on any Hyundai website or their brochure for the 2005 car. I believe some other websites got that feature mixed up with the new Azera. The same sites also mention the new grip handles for the rear passengers having the innovative fold-out hook for hanging clothes. This too seems to be mixed-up with the new Azera. My XG has the plain hook hanging on the grip handle. I'm still convinced that the features of the car make it a good value compared to similar features found in competitive vehicles.
What kind of deal did you get?
I agree it was the best value for me too.
The auto headlights is very convenient. The photocell is just an on/off switch and should be expected to go back and forth (off and on) in slightly varying low light conditions. Yours is working the way it was designed.
I came to the same conclusion, that some writers were confusing the XG with the Azera on those features.
The slippery woodgrain surface on the steering wheel another poster mentioned was probably the result of Armor All on the wheel. He should use a mild soap solution to remove the greasy film. Then the wheel is not slippery at all. Just smooth and classy.
I like my XG350L a lot.
Could anyone who has a 2005 XG350 please post some information for me? I would like to know when you purchased, what city you purchased in, what trim you bought, and what the actual base purchase price was (not including rebates, TTL, or Doc Fees - just your negotiated purchase price). Something like the following would be good enough:
Februay 2005, Denver, XG350L w/ no options, $19000
This info will help me finalize my decision.
Thanks to everyone in advance.
I think my auto headlights don't come on soon enough. I frequently have to turn mine on manually at dusk because I'll be the only car driving without lights on. I wonder if there's a way to make them a little more sensitive?
My 350L is Celadon Green, which I think must be one of the rarest colors. I get a lot of comments about it, and while I like all of the colors, it was definitely my favorite.
Thanks, everyone for writing.
* Have a gas cap that holder that prevents the dangling of the gas cap when filling the gas tank.
* Have gas pressurized struts on the trunk hinges rather than the goose neck luggage crushing hinges.
* Auto-lights that don't come on whenever passing through shadows, under overpasses, etc. Auto-lights should come on whenever the wipers are turned-on except when using the mist/wash.
* Have all doors to auto-lock whenever putting car in-gear.
* Have telescopic steering wheel w/ memory.
* Have Cruise Controls on steering wheel to illuminate.
* Have ambient (outside temp) to display constantly rather than having to push the button to display.
* Offer heated rear seats.
* Somehow have more creative storage bins.
* Have auto-wipers (rain sensitive) as a standard.
* It would be great to have windows that could auto-dim like the Electrochromatic rear-view mirror. Especially for the front windshield.
* Naturally, a much more fuel efficient motor with greater horsepower.
* Have the new type of clothes-hook built in to the rear-seat grip handles as seen in the new Sonata/Azera.
These are just a few things.... please feel free to add to the wish list. It's a dead hoarse but it does show Hyundai how to better serve the consumer.
"adjustments required as a result of a manufacturing deficiency are covered for the first year or 12K miles."
Thereafter this is considered owner maintenance responsibility. Since I've had the car 2 years with 18K miles, I'm stuck paying. Seems like a "cute" way for them to weasel out of a lot of things you would think are under the 5 year bumper to bumper warranty. Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions on this ? Thanks