Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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1. Check Air Cleaner Restrictions,if no restriction(s) found then seek professional help.
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Are you sure your MAF sensor is bad, not just dirty? My RX300 got a rouch idle and sometimes engine just stalled. I took MAF sensor out and saw the sensor wire was covered with lots of epoxy looking, accumulated dirty stuff. I bought a can of some spray from Frys and cleaned the sensor. I made sure the dirty stuff was gone. Put it back in the is as smooth as the day I bought it.
If the tiny sensor wire is not touched, it is unlikely the sensor is completely bad.
My dad got used to it already. However, is it normal, just designed that way?
Anyways good luck.
I will check the brake thing as soon as I get the time, and will update you. I don't quite trust the Hyundai dealer who checked and said brake is normal (We bought the car from them).
I took the car to a shop (not Hyundai dealer-it's out of warranty) who was unable to locate a problem or duplicate the issue. My wife picked up the car and drove it home today without problems. I did some research and found that some owners have had similar issues and ended up replacing some sort of sensor: accelerator position sensor, accelerator sensor, accelerator relay or something of the sort. I called Hyundai Consumer Relations to explain the issue and he told me he could find nothing showing a re-occurring issue.
Does anyone know what the problem is or what I need to replace?
Good luck.
By the way, TCS light is also intermittent with the ABS light. They are either both on at one time, or both off at other times.
I am curious that all mechanics think that this is normal, when it obviously isn't. I don't feel like experimenting by changing all the brakes, rotors, flushing the system and having no guarantee that this problem is related.
I don't agree with the mechanic saying "ABS is not working therefore brake is heavy...". ABS starts to kick only in extreme case, not in normal operation if I understand it correctly. So no matter ABS is working or not, it shouldn't affect normal and gentle braking.
Did you ever figure out the issue. I too have a P1191 and P1193 issue.
1) the Car occasionally will not start, battery is new and alternator has been tested as fine
2) yesterday the engine light went on
3) today the brakes barely work as they are completely with out any resistance.
Any thoughts? Would love to have some feedback before I take it to the shop.
To resolve all issues and eliminate all possible reasons, I would have to replace the coils, change the oxygen sensors, change the transmission and engine mounts, do a tune up, change brakes and replace rotors, check hubs and brake calipers. Check master brake cylinder and brake lines.
These are just the issues I am aware of on my 2001 XG300. Now you tell me if it's worth spending twice the money the car is worth?
This is no advice, but it's at least a reply, telling you aren't alone.
In your case it might be an easy fix, if you just experienced these issues in a row without problems before. Beware though, not to get dragged in into an escalating repair project and see if its worth your time and money.
Here is another link to problems with the ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR and VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL: ELECTRONIC THROTTLE SYSTEM (ETS)
1 = http://www.iseecars.com/car-problems/hyundai-xg300-problems
2 = http://www.hyundaiproblems.com/tsbs/XG350/2002/
3 = http://www.hyundaiproblems.com/tsbs/XG350/2003/
Read your post and went back to earlier researched pages hope this helps you figure out he problem. I don't know why no recall on the this particular model. I blame it on our politicians for not having a better system to make cars become recalled that are a danger to the consumer that bought them. After doing some research on just this car for about an hour I know I don't want a used one, and will advise the actual owner I am researching for , to junk hers. Good luck from me to you.
I hope you make Hyundai pay for their continued laziness of marketing a dangerous product and not fixing the problem once they knew it was a problem. All these incidents surely shows there is a problem with their product.
Method 1: On the back side of the mirror below the ball joint, there is a small round cover. Insert a sharp blade tip at the top of the cover and carefully pry it out. Underneath is the tip of the tension screw. It has a slot in the end of it that can be tightened with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Carefully replace the cover, inserting the bottom tab first, then snap in the top. If the mirror is still not tight enough, go to Method 2.
Method 2: Carefully pry off the rim bezel of the mirror, starting in the middle of the seam on the bottom, working your way around the edge. The bezel will pop off when you get past one of the ends. I used a pair of heavy guitar picks to keep the latches from snapping back into place as I progressed. Once the bezel falls off, the mirror assembly will dangle from the power cord. The Phillips tension screw is in the center bottom of the case; tighten it to suit, and make certain that the four bracket mounting screws around it are all tight, too. Then place the mirror assembly back in place and snap the bezel back into place, starting at the top.
Do you have more information about this wire? I'm having the same problem exactly.
Thanks in advance. If you could email me back at doggysmells@gmail.com I would really appreciate it. Thanks