Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

dsrtrat2 · July 2007

All of those "inspect this or that" are just so time consuming!!

I agree with your R.

Change the oil and filter at least every 7500 miles or sooner, the transmission fluid every 30k as well as the air cleaner at 30k. Be sure to use Honda's ATF. I also like to use OEM oil filters, other people have other ideas.

I don't change the AC in-cabin filter as the only time I did, I couldn't tell the dirty side from the clean side.

The dealer should be able to print you a schedule for you.

When you get to 100k then change the timing belt, coolant, belts, check water pump at that time also. Some think the brake fluid should be replaced, but I don't.

sbpceap · July 2007

My '03 Odyssey driver side door no longer accepts my key 9 times out of 10. I brought it to a locksmith who told me he gets about 3 Hondas per week with this problem, and that there may be a recall regarding this problem. He stated that since 1999 or 2000, Honda switched to cheaper lock cylinders that bend more easily. Has anyone else had or heard about this problem, and whether Honda has serviced this problem under any warranty? Thanks. :confuse:

user777 · July 2007

Oh, advantage Edmunds, advantage us.

yes, yes, yes.

recently (last 2 months), my wife and I have been having numerous problems with our '03 ODY lock cylinder on the driver's side.

i would put the failure ratio to accept the key at perhaps 7 or 8 out of 10 tries.

i'm posting a link to this in the 1999-2004 Honda Odyssey forum.

please let me know if you find out more!

pkirangi · August 2007

Hello ,
I have a brand new 07 odysset EX-L. When I open the front windows about 2 to 3 inches down, sometimes I here a slight rattling sound, if the road is not very smooth. If the windows are closed I dont here any sound. Is this Normal.

Thanks
PHK

robr2 · August 2007

My dealer always follows Honda's recommendation on the severe vs normal schedules and I've always had great luck at my dealership for the work.

IMHO, their prices are reasonable and because I use them for all my service, they take care of things at no charge although my car is out of warranty - it's called the good customer discount. They've replaced bulbs and pieces of trim that were damaged for me without my asking.

It all depends on perspective. I too am fiscally conservation but know how to recognize value.

otguy · August 2007

The Maintenance Minder on my 2006 Ody EXL is indicating the symbols A and 1. The manual (page 330) says that symbol A is "replace engine oil" and the sub-item symbol 1 is "rotate tires". So do I need to change the oil filter too? Note that symbol B is "replace engine oil and oil filter....." I've always replaced the oil filter with every oil change in the past, but if it's not necessary I won't change it.

Thank you.

user777 · August 2007

i'm not an expert, but some say the filter change can be more important than the oil change.

msibille · August 2007

I'm assuming that, since you note the maint minder is calling for the oil change, that you've got over 5k miles on that oil and filter.

I'd change the filter because-
a) the filter is cheap, and without a UsedOilAnalysis (UOA) you don't know how much dirt (shows as silicon in the UOA) you have, and no way to know how full the filter is;

b) the oil life estimates on my wife's 2006 LX are far too liberal. I changed her first oil change at 5k even though the oil life indicator showed 30% remaining. Then did a UOA. The analysis showed the oil was relatively clean (air and oil filters doing their jobs) but the viscosity had dropped to the bottom of the acceptable range and the other element levels indicated tired oil. No way I'd put another 2100mi on that oil. I will not trust the oil life indicator to go past 5k until I see UOA that back it up.

c) the antidrainback valves on all but premium filters are nitrile, which works great, but tires from heat and time. Given the low cost of quality filters (I prefer Purolator, OEM, and Wix, in that order.) it doesn't pay to go thru the time,trouble,cost of an oil change w/o filter.

gotamps · August 2007

Well I decided to go back to our dealer and have them do a normal engine oil change and a transmission oil change. Interestingly every place (non-Honda) I called all quoted me about $150 for a trans fluid change - but they all are doing a flush (system clean) and refill. When I told Honda service about this they scoffed and said that would be a bad thing to do, that Honda does not recommend pumping detergents through the system. What he said sounded reasonable, plus the dealer charged $100 less to just do a drain and refill. The way I figure it if I have transmission problems down the road and I've done all my services through a dealer - I'll have a better chance of recourse. Whereas if I let a service station pump detergents through the system, I'll have no chance of getting assistance from Honda should it ever come to that. So in the end it cost me less to both services done at the dealer than just the trans service elsewhere (hey - I am a cheap SOB). I still haven't done a scheduled maintenance though and we're at 45k miles. My wife drives the kids to school and such, the Odyssey is pretty much pampered. I'll do a 'full' service a ways down the road - maybe closer to a 100k. It is a Honda after all! :shades:

msibille · August 2007

I would agree with not letting anyone (even a dealer) "flush" my tranny unless it had major contaminants -but that would probably be the result of mech damage and require a rebuild anyway. The dealer price wasn't a lot because they didn't do a lot (fluid drained from tranny sump, but that leaves fluid in the torque converter, pump, valves, etc., They merely top off.) -but that's OK, they're doing what you need.

As for neglecting sched maint -that's not good.
Actually, short trips and city driving is harder on a vehicle -that's not folklore. (In fact in 1972, my parents bought two Ford LTDs, identical in every way except color. My dad drove a 30 mi commute, mostly 55-60 mph, Mom drove the "little old lady" driving cycle. Much more repair work on her vehicle thruout it's life.)

Don't think that driving the kids to school is easy on the vehicle -unless it's a 20 min drive at 45-55mph.

OTOH- there's no need to do more maint than what the mfr tells you. For the EX -don't you have the maint minder system? The code letter tells you what maint is due and when. Do that maint, when it tells you (except for oil changes -I wouldn't go past 5k without a UOA to back it up -see my earlier post), then rest easy. Resist being talked into "better maint" which is usually "better profits". The mfr has nothing to gain by selling you short on maint. Svc depts make money on reg maint, not nearly as much on warranty work, and mfrs make some money (parts sales) on maint, but lose money on warranty work. So, if in doubt, the mfr will likely recommend a service, not omit it.

Good luck and fair trails.

ed1973 · August 2007

Hello

Ive got a 1995 Ody 2.2 front wheel drive when i put my foot down it sounds very loud ,my oil seems ok maybe a little old,but dont know where or how to check atf fluid,also i have got a tv that was plugged into the original imported japanese honda radio cassette that i have took out can any body tell me what wire goes to what off the ten pin green plug from behind the original cassette player. I also need to know what the tyre pressures should be ,honda 16 inch alloys, special edition(i Think)and where is does arial go from the back of the stereo/tv as i need to modify if possible from japanese to english..

many thanks Ed

Many

hondalova · August 2007

Dealer Service Mgr. says that '07 LX and EX Odysseys have a re-designed combustion chamber - that the hemispherical top is machined to smaller size and tighter tolerance than the ones in the '05-'06 models and that this what is causing the spark knock. Says, cc design on the cylinder deactivation models (EX-L and Touring) is different and that this is why they don't knock.

I tried putting 92 octane in when the tank of regular got down to about 3/8. Car stopped knocking for about 1/2 tank and then it started to gradually comeback as the tank wound its way down again. Same thing happened when the dealer put in C-16 racing fuel (116 octane).

Called Honda Corporate - customer rep. I spoke with tried to tell me that the owner's manual says the car should run on 86 octane "or above," intimating that I may need to run the car on mid-grade or premium for the rest of its life. My reply to that was that: (a) the car already gets way shittier mileage than it should (averaged 22 on a 300 mile trip at 70 mph with the a/c on) which is already costing me money it shouldn't, and that (b) right now he's talking about fixing MY car and making ME happy. If they want to play the "make the customer lump it at his expense game" then it will be a class action lawsuit for EVERYONE with this problem b/c the car is advertised in the sales brochure, by their salesmen, and on television as running on regular gas at 19 city and 25 mpg highway.

Car is at the shop, yet again, b/c the Honda Corporate guy wanted the dealer to take (yet another, the 4th or 5th) look at it.

I also have an unrelated tranny problem in that there is 2-3 second (i.e. noticeable) delay) between moving the gearshift and any response from the transmission. Once again, I've repeatedly complained and been repeatedly told that its "normal operation."

I remember when Honda used to say that the transmission failures and sliding door problems on the 2000-2003 Odysseys were "normal operation" too - and we know that was a load of BS, right?

This is my 3rd Honda in 16 yrs. - the 1st one was rock-solid and unstoppable. But the 2nd ('04 EX-L Accord V-6 Coupe with 6 spd.) & 3rd Hondas (this car) I've had problems with - I'm no longer in love and will consider going back to Nissan or Toyota next time around unless they do something for me - at this point, they have to either: (a) fix the car, or (b) give me $2,500-$3,000 credit on my financing balance to make up for the cost of buying premium fuel and even then, my tranny concerns are still not satisfied. The only other alternative left is to give me a new Odyssey EX-L with the different head/chamber design and do a substitution of collateral on my loan.

-FS

bobber1 · August 2007

Interesting. I have an 07 Ex and have none of the problems you are mentioning. I don't buy that the chamber is manufactured any different than the 05's and 06's. The only thing I believe was different in the 07's was an improved transmission based off the Ridgeline.

hondalova · August 2007

According to service manager, he has checked out other EX's on the lot and several have the same problem that then abates with the addition of higher octane gasoline. I can't see why he'd make that up or lie to me about - I just can't conceive of a motive - he gets paid to fix cars, not tell customers that they're irreparable.

I'm a pretty competent diagnostician - know the difference between a brake rotor and a caliper, between a hydraulic problems vs. a mechanical vs. an electrical, and I understand the basics of how most systems theoretically operate, but when you start getting into the nitty gritty of chamber and head design, and stochiometric fuel-air mix settings, etc., I start to glaze over.

I'm at a loss about what to do next except press Honda Corporate Customer Service for a resolution.

-FS

bobber1 · August 2007

Actually it sounds like this guy is trying to pass the buck and blaming the issue on a Honda design flaw which supposedly all EX's have. This is the first time I've heard that and I've been checking this site out for the last 9 months pretty regular.

I'd try another dealer first and then try Honda Corporate.

user777 · August 2007

i don't think the "story" holds weight either. other people don't have this problem. i suspect you have an issue with the ECU or the anti-knock sensor where it is unable to advance or retard the ignition to avoid the knock.

do you have a problem with power or fuel economy? maybe your timing is WAY off.

dave594 · August 2007

I have about 94k miles on my Ody. I had the fuel vapor solenoid replaced a year ago when the CEL first came on. Recently the CEL came up again, and the dealer diagnosis was nothing was wrong. The CEL was reset, and a few weeks later the light came on again. I replaced the gas cap but the light won't go away. Took it to the dealer again today and they did checked all the components in the gas tank vapor control system and nothing was wrong. They also did the smoke test to detect a small leak. Found nothing. So the CEL was reset again so that I can get my emissions test done to register my car. Anyone heard of this problem before and what the problem might be? The service advisor says small leaks are very difficult to detect. I hate the thought of bringing the van back repeatedly to chase this problem.

user777 · August 2007

FWIW: in an '03, i had an issue with a slow leak in the down-tube going from the filler cap to the tank.

hondalova · August 2007

ECU or PCM (choose your semantics) has been replaced. Service manager says that, once programmed, programming cannot be changed - that the PCM's are one-time programmable units and the only way to change it is to then have another blank PCM programmed with the revised specs and then installed.

My mileage sucks - but I hear that is endemic to all Odysseys of this generation. On a 300 mile trip at ~70 mph from Cape Cod back to NY, I averaged 22 mpg (barely) with the air on and me, my wife, and our 7 & 10 year olds in the car. On average commuting (100 miles roundtrip, about 50/50 hwy./local) my wife is averaging 16-17. That's a far cry from the 19/25 promised in the owner's manual.

Honda Corporate is already involved and they're doing jack squat for me. Yesterday, they tried to tell me that "its an octane problem" and that I should put higher octane gas in. I replied "Yes it IS an octane problem - your product is KNOCKING on the recommended octane." She then told me that it is a "normal condition" for this automobile, based upon the fact that the dealer found the same problem in 2 other Ody-EXs on the lot with regular gas in 'em. I replied: "So, in other words, b/c you have 3-4 cars that are broken instead of one, you're not going to fix any of 'em - do I have that right? Because that's BS."

Right now I just want my car fixed (or replaced). However, if they tell me to shove-it because the car should run on "86 or higher" and I should put premium in - its gonna be a class action lawsuit to fix EVERY Ody-EX and then they can fix ALL the cars that knock.

One other question - when the car had about 6000 miles on it, I had the A-Pipe replacement done to quell the 200 rpm in 6th gear thrumming noise (it actually worked, curing about 70% of the noise, though it is still present sometimes). Could that be affecting the manifold and the airflow and causing problems?

I am at my wits end here - I work three jobs and have a two hour roundtrip commute every day - I don't have time to deal with this anymore.

-FS

user777 · August 2007

if the a-pipe was defective, it could change the back pressure on the vehicle resulting in poorer fuel economy.

however, i don't think this would impact pinging.

did you ask your dealership to check your timing?

ed1973 · August 2007

Hello

Ive got a 1995 Ody 2.2 front wheel drive when i put my foot down it sounds very loud ,my oil seems ok maybe a little old,but dont know where or how to check atf fluid,also i have got a tv that was plugged into the original imported japanese honda radio cassette that i have took out can any body tell me what wire goes to what off the ten pin green plug from behind the original cassette player. I also need to know what the tyre pressures should be ,honda 16 inch alloys, special edition(i Think)and where is does arial go from the back of the stereo/tv as i need to modify if possible from japanese to english..

many thanks Ed

hondalova · August 2007

I did - several times in fact - and was told every time that timing is controlled electronically by the ECU/PCM module - the same one that he told me is only one-time programmable and has to be replaced with newly programmed unit in order to change. Mine WAS replaced, but to no avail. My service manager certainly talks a good show, and I'm a fairly "user friendly" motorist when it comes to understanding how things operate, but I'm not a tech and I don't know how much to believe vs. how much not to believe.

I AM, however, ready to spit ground glass and tacks at Honda.

-FS

stickguy · August 2007

Well, if they screw around with it a few more times, you just might have a good lemon law case on your hands!

user777 · August 2007

i mean checked the timing by removing the cover on the timing belt/chain...

and did they ever replace the knock sensor?

if it were me, time to visit a different dealership.

vidwana · August 2007

Steve,

That worked like a charm on my Honda Odessey. Thanks for posting the information.

Cheers,

Anup

zuraxus · August 2007

use two brick (one for each wheel) right before the ramp to cut the steep angle...

justaveragejoe · August 2007

Check the owner's manual regarding transmission service. It recommends draining and refilling the transmission FOUR times in a row to ensure that enough new fluid is actually in the tranny.

It is easier to drain and refill the tranny that an oil change since there is no filter involved. I live in Sacramento, so heat can be a problem for transmissions.

I did a couple drain and refills at around 20,000 miles, and just did another couple at 25,000. For $60, you can buy a case of Honda ATF.

justaveragejoe · August 2007

You need to find another dealer to get their opinion. You have looked at the electronic controls and nothing has helped. You say you know the difference between mechanical and electrical problems, could this knock possibly be caused by a mechanical problem? Did this start when the A-pipe was replaced?

ping3 · August 2007

Hey there.

I read all your posts about your EX. I'm having the same problems on my 07 Touring, so it's not just the non-VCM Odysseys. I even tried 92 octane.

My dealer worked on my van's preingition problem for 3 weeks with a Honda Canada Rep. as he said that they have another brand new EX-L on the lot that is also " pinging" badly. They replaced/swapped everything they said they could think of. So I took it to another dealer here in town and same thing; so back on the phone to Honda Corp.

Mine is a lease so I said, to Honda Corp.,if you don't fix it now you can have the piece of crap back once it burns holes in the pistons or valves and then you need to give me another van! Their reply was that they don't know why some Odysseys are "pinging" and they want us to keep driving it until it does break down so they have a better ideal of what is causing it. What??? So I'm to be your test mule? Nice way to stand behind your product!!! :lemon:

hondalova · August 2007

I'm really sorry to hear that b/c I'd kind of begun to pin my hopes on making them give me a new EX-L to solve the problem and, from what you're saying, that may not solve the problem.

I'm curious - have you had the 2000 rpm drone and/or done the A-Pipe replacement for same on your van? One or two people have suggested that the pipe replacement may be causing backpressure in the manifold that's backing up into the combustion process if it wasn't done correctly.

The hardest part about it all is that my wife, who has hated driving minivans until now, really likes driving this one and doesn't want to get rid of it for a Sienna or a crossover SUV (I kinda like those new GMC Acadia/Saturn Outlook/Buick Enclave sisters that just came out).

-FS

pkirangi · August 2007

Hi ,
I have brand new 07 EX-L R/N odyssey. It has been about 3 months since my purchase, and dealership has called for maintenance. But I have put on only 1500 miles, and the oil life indicator shows 75%, and no service codes have been displayed. I thought I would need to go for maintenance, when the oil life is down to 5%. Do I really need to go for maintenance?

Thanks
PHK

stickguy · August 2007

the dealership is just trying to vacuum money out of your wallet. Just follow the maintenance minder, or whatever you feel comfy with.

1500 miles is way too early to need anything.

ping3 · August 2007

The only other issues that I had with this van was the front-side windows rattling, but that was fixed by Honda installing new weatherstrips. No other work was ever done besides scheduled services.

The part that I don't get is that my van was fine for the first 17,000 Km or 10,500 Miles before it started having the pre-ignition problem. So something had to have gone wrong instead of it being wrong from the start....I assume. But the EX-L that my dealer claims has the extact same problem is brand new.

I guess the good thing is that the problem seems to only be on a few of these vans, the bad news it that the buggers can't/ won't fix it and you may not know if you have one yet. Actually there probably is a few thousand more of them but the average person won't recognize the sound or be able to distinguish it and not know that it will eventualy and inevitably destroy the engine. :mad:

pkirangi · August 2007

Thanks StickGuy. So how soon should I go in for my first maintenance.

Prashant H. K.

mommobile2 · August 2007

I'm so glad (sort of) to find your post. I have a 2007 EX-L - have had it for 10 months. For several months now (most of its life), it has had this knock. I can best describe it as sounding like a 1978 Bonneville! It just sounds like an old car with a rattly engine - not how I want my new car to sound. It happens mostly around 30-40 mph, especially if I am driving in that range and let off the gas and then re-accelerate. It also happens on initial acceleration from a stop.

I've mentioned it to the dealer on several visits for other issues/oil changes. Last time, a mechanic tried several different tweaks (though I don't know exactly what) and it didn't really help. But yesterday, I took it in just to have the knock looked at again since we're nearing the end of the first year. I was basically dismissed. First they couldn't even hear it until I took the mechanic for a ride. They told me that it was the knock sensor "doing its job" (CREATING knock, I wonder?!). It was normal. They would call the Techline to see if they had any insight and get back to me, but there was probably nothing to be done with it.

I'm also interested to read up a little on knock issues because I did try a tank of premium gas per the recommendation of the mechanic last time and it sounded better for about half the tank. I thought that meant it didn't fix it (maybe wasn't a knock/octane issue) but now I'm seeing that this is common when the tank gets low.

Anyway, please keep posting about your progress with Honda. I don't intend to let this rest at "normal" but I also don't relish the idea of pushing this and becoming the crazy lady that keeps coming back for the "sound" in her van.

ping3 · August 2007

It's definitely not " normal ". Mine also does it on initial acceleration, just before and after the vans shift points at 50km/h(30mph) and 70km/h(45mph) under light acceleration, and up hills especially when the engine is hot.

The knock sensor is supposed to prevent this from happening.

The problem is real! Honda Canada and my dealer said that it is indeed a pre-ignition noise. They don't no why it's doing it, and they don't know how to fix it!!!!

The problem is defined by Wikipedia in 2 ways but the result are the same :sick: :

Knocking (also called pinging)-

Colloquially detonationin internal combustion engines occurs when air/fuel mixture in the cylinder has been ignited by the spark plug and the smooth burning is interrupted by the unburned mixture in the combustion chamber exploding before the flame front can reach it. The engineered combusting process ceases, because of the explosion, before the optimum moment for the four-stroke cycle. The resulting shockwave reverberates in the combustion chamber, creating a characteristic metallic "pinging" sound, and pressures increase catastrophically. It can range from hardly noticeable to complete engine destruction.

Detonation or pre-ignition-
The fuel/air mixture is normally ignited slightly before the point of maximum compression to allow a small time for the flame-front of the burning fuel to expand throughout the mixture so that maximum pressure occurs at the optimum point. The flame-front moves at roughly 33.5 m/second (110 feet/second) during normal combustion[citation needed]. It is only when the remaining unburned mixture is heated and pressurized by the advancing flame front for a certain length of time that the detonation occurs. It is caused by an instantaneous ignition of the remaining fuel/air mixture in the form of an explosion. The cylinder pressure rises dramatically beyond its design limits and if allowed to persist detonation will damage or destroy engine parts.

Consequences of Knocking or Pre-ignition
Engine knocking has disastrous consequences for the engine, since it leads to the catastrophical wear of the combustion chamber walls, through particle wear for moderate knocking, to welding for serious knocking. This is due to the contact between those walls and high temperature gases resulting from the unwanted explosion. The processes also lead to a 'knocking' noise for the engine, that give its name to the phenomenon.

A big problem us owners are having is finding enough of us to recognize our vans have this problem and to make Honda do something about it - I think they should buy the vans back and do the research on them that is required to fix all of them.

user777 · September 2007

have you asked for someone to replace the knock sensor? maybe it is unable to sense the pre-detonation properly and send the signal to the ECU so the ignition timing is adjusted properly.

pkirangi · September 2007

Hi ,
I have a brand new 07 EX-L R/N odyssey. It has been slightly over 3 months since my purchase, and the oil life shows 70% with no maintenance minders lit up yet. It has about 1700 miles on it.
How soon should I go for the first maintenance.

Thanks
PHK

hondalova · September 2007

u777,

Both good ideas, but probably not the problem. Both my knock sensor and my PCM (ECU?) were replaced by the dealer without affecting the problem.

I notice that everyone who has posted on this issue has a 2007 and so I'm wondering what they've changed on the '07 head or cylinder design that could be causing this.

My dealer service manager seems to think it may be the hemispherical shape at the top of the cylinder. He said the tolerance measurements were tightened on the '07s and that this is what is causing it.

Oh, and he described my problem as "Detonation" not "Pre-Ignition," which, as Ping so nicely explained, is similar to PI, but not quite the same thing. THe end result is though - an engine that's been blown apart from the inside out.

-FS

ping3 · September 2007

Both were replaced along with he A pipe.

No difference.

FYI: I also notice that on this board there a couple people with 05-06 Odys that are complaining of the same issue.

robr2 · September 2007

Probably around 7500 miles.

dave594 · September 2007

Your OLI only measures oil properties, not the amount of metal particles that are coming off the virgin engine as you break it in. Go change the oil right now and avoid any possible issues with the metal shavings causing damage down the road. The $30 you spend now will be insignificant compared to the possible cost later.

robr2 · September 2007

Go change the oil right now and avoid any possible issues with the metal shavings causing damage down the road.

NO NO NO NO NO. AFAIK, all Hondas come from the factory with special break in oil. READ YOUR MANUAL for what it recommends.

dsrtrat2 · September 2007

You need to get more miles on your new baby before winter. The break-in oil is special, so leave it in there to do its job and let the oil filter do its job (if there is some need for it).

I tend to change my oil sometime after the minder rolls down to 20%. Make sure you change the filter at each oil change as a low cost insurance.

pkirangi · September 2007

Thanks everyone for all your response. I guess I will wait till the engine life hits 15%.

PHK

robr2 · September 2007

I guess I will wait till the engine life hits 15%.

Hope you meant OIL LIFE!!

ee74 · September 2007

I have a 2006 Odyssey EX with about 26000 miles. I have noticed for a while now that when I apply the brakes at higher speeds (50+mph), like when coming off the highway down an off-ramp, the steering wheel shakes very noticeably. At slower speeds, this doesn't happen at all.

Has anyone else noticed something like this before? Any chance this has anything to do with the stability control kicking in or something?

mommobile2 · September 2007

So an update...The day after I initially posted about this, I got a call back from my service rep at Honda. They had called the Techline and found out that there is a service bulletin out for Pilots, Odys and Ridgelines. I can't remember all of the ins and outs of it, but they ordered me some new parts (I think the A pipe is part of what they're doing) and they're repairing it for me on Monday. I'm happy they're at least trying something, but disturbed to see this popping up as a more common problem - and not all that optimistic that they are going to make the noise go away.

I will post in the new forum area specific to this problem and will update if whatever they do helps (with more detail on what it is they're doing).

Oh, and on replacing the knock sensor, they said that the knock sensor was doing its job (and might actually be the reason for this "normal" sound - ha!). They did mention some indicator that would be tripped if there was a problem with the knock sensor and that indicator is showing that the sensor is fine. So they ruled that out as a solution.

cccompson · September 2007

Is there vibration in the brake pedal at the same time? If so, the brake rotors might be warped.

scrname · September 2007

I have the same issue with my new EXL R&N. I didn't notice any vibrations on the brake pedal but the steering wheel. What might be the problem?

Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

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