I've been SO busy at work. I believe I'll be attending a h.s. spring concert tomorrow night. Are you going to Woodbridge next Wed.? Or no, because it's not a speedbuggy sanctioned event?
Only cause woodbridge is about 10 minutes away from SI yet no one from jersey comes to NY for a meet ever. Also wed is usually when all my buddy's go out for dinner so I'll have to see.
Ed - Wooodbridge won't be the same without paisan. :-) I see that Mitch is going though and one or two other Backroads Drive guys. I'm still up in the air on it.
Noticed that the air intake tends to let a great deal of debris onto the turbo cooler. Is there a mesh add-on I can buy to fit into the air intake to protect the turbo cooler from debris?
I did some measuring and found out that the hood scoop has approx 30 sq.in. of opening, and the top of the cooler has approx. 95.5 sq. in. of surface. That means that you can simply cut a screen 16 1/4" x 5 7/8" to fit the top of the intercooler, the boot will hold it firmly in place. I would use 20x20 mesh Alum screen which would yield 46% open area so you don't cut down on the air flow. Also gives you openings of only .034" sq. to keep bugs and such out. If you put the screen inside the hood scoop at the front opening you will reduce the amount of airflow. (This is not good)
I suggest using the aluminum screen to avoid damage to the cooler fins, if you use steel you could cause damage, if you use fiberglass it may melt. The aluminum screen placed right on the cooler would be easy to remove and clean.
If there is enough interest, I might be willing to make these for you guys, for say, $15 plus shipping. Email me at: dopheide@ksni.net.
Or you can order the screen yourself from McMaster Carr #9227T432 is a 12"x24" sheet for about $9.32, and will yield (2) screens. www.mcmaster.com
I am not in any way affiliated with McMaster Carr, I just know it to be a good source for this kind of thing.
Ken (PS our trip to the West has been postponed till Sept.)
First, to Dave and nschulman3: Thanks for the advice. I had my Rex jump-started (actually, push-started) on the advice of a friend, and it worked--and it's started fine since, although it wasn't the battery! Dealership said I would have to leave it with them a whole day to inspect it and even then they might not be able to duplicate the problem. So that's that. Second, I'm an over-40 female who likes cars, and I too feel years younger when I drive my WRX--wish I could have had it 10 years ago (but couldn't afford something like it then). I'd like to say that for those who complain that the turbo doesn't kick in until about 3000 rpms or so, that's OK--when you're doing city driving or in stop-and-go traffic, who needs it? As long as you can use that kick when you need it. It's a well-mannered car, and handles sooo well (I had a Honda Prelude at one point, and I loved that car, but the WRX is better!). Sonya4
First, for getting her Rex started again. I'd be interested in what the dealer finds out. Seems electrical though. Just off the wall I had a similar issue with my '80 RX7 a while back. Intermittent, sometimes okay, sometimes not. Turned out to be my electrical gas pump - loose wire turning the gas pump on and off.
Second, for being >40 and not driving a Camry or Volvo....a 5sp Rex nonetheless and loving it.
Third, for loving her Rex for what it is with what it has. I'm not a race car driver either. There's a lot of nice sporty cars here in CA but they all drive the same speed during peak hours - 5/10 mph. But those on ramps, off ramps and curves will never be the same with a WRX. It's nice to know you can either get out of the way or in front of "skill deprived" drivers or wanna-be's. Good luck!
Thanks for the note, sensei1. I won't be going to the dealer again unless I have a similiar starter problem (or until the next oil change).
As for being over 40 and not driving a Camry or Volvo--are you kidding!! I wouldn't be caught driving those cars (no offense to any Camry or Volvo owners, but they just aren't my style). I've always liked sports/sporty cars--was in fact considering an Audi TT and the Acura RSX besides the WRX--but decided the WRX was the better choice all-around.
Does anybody know if the WRX will be offered in a 2-door coupe--besides more hp--where the rear seats can be folded down? I've been reading the car magazines etc. but so far, it's only offered as a 4-door sedan. Sonya4
There have been rumors for a while that they might be reviving the SVX name, and giving it to a Subaru roadster based on the WRX (or something along those lines). Some of the major car mags even have it in their manufacturer forecasts.
I love both the WRX and IS300, but find myself unable to seriously consider the WRX because of the reports about the ABS brake failures. Most WRX owners who post don't seem overly concerned about this supposed problem, but it sounds to me like a potential nightmare waiting to bite WRX drivers.
Am I missing something about the ABS failures? It sounds like there is nothing that can be done when the problem strikes other than wait for the brakes to come back (downshift on the manual I guess) and hope that there isn't a critical need to stop immediately in front.
Btw, the IS300 base model is only about $2,000 (US$) more than the WRX in Canada, so I don't feel I'm comparing completely different cars. I like the AWD and exhilarating acceleration on the WRX and the handling and refinement of the IS300.
no, more like a glich from what I understand. Apparently, the handful encounters were WRX wearing 16" wheels, and those who have switched over to 17" have not reported any occurance or reoccurance.
is almost $3k Cdn more. And add the highly desirable Premium package will put it way into the forties. It *is* a great car, but you have to decide whether you want an AWD car or not. AWD is feels so right in the winter months.
Why not get both? My wife drives the is 300 sportcross (I know, no manual) and I drive the wrx sedan 5 speed. This way, we have a wagon, automatic, 5speed, turbo, inline 6, rear wheel drive and awd. When i get bored with the wrx, we switch! Seriously, they are very different cars, although if i could only have one, it would be a very difficult choice. The is 300 handles terrifically and the engine, while not super fast, is so smooth and makes great sounds. It isn't too bad in wet weather either. The wrx gets a bit tiring sometimes in the slow city driving i deal with nearly every day, where i can't use all the power and the car seems bogged down. If you are buying, i'd probably go for the wrx, but the is 300 has a very attractive lease deal out there.
It happens on a lot of cars, not just WRXs. A large portion of the drivers that this happens to are over-driving the car. The condition happens due to the tires and/or suspension. I had a similar problem with my Trooper til I upgraded the tires from stock. Also it only happened when I was driving abnormally fast/braking abnormally late while going over potholes or railroad tracks.
but the ABS situation isn't predominantly happening w/folks who are overdriving their WRXs and this is what is scary folks (rightfully so based on my experience). When I had my stock 16's and going below the speed limit coming down a (dry)decline over an expansion joint my ABS did its quirky thing and I had no brakes for a couple of seconds unfortunately the expansion joint was about 12 feet behind the stopped car in front of me. Needless to say my driver's seat was nearly soiled. The problem is how the ABS is programmed from what I understand per a recent article in Sports Compact Car (SCC). It is true that the only time I have gotten the ABS to do this again w/my 17"tires/wheels has been when I've pushed the car. Otherwise, the ABS drama has been rectified w/the 17"wheels/tires. In all other markets outside of N.America the WRX comes standard w/17"wheels/tires and I haven't read of the same normal driving problems w/the ABS from folks in these markets....hmmmm...
Had this happen again the other day and it was a bit scary. While crossing several lanes of traffic at about 45 mph, the pavement suddenly became very wavy and uneven--the ABS came on but the braking action became non-existent for a second or two. My passenger didn't notice anything unusual, though, so I'm wondering if the problem might seem worse to the driver than it really is. Have any mishaps actually been reported because of this problem?
Not being into autocross, I like the 16 inchers already on the car and would hate to swap them out (they give a slightly more comfortable ride than the 17", plus are a fraction of a second quicker 0-60, although admittedly not as good handling on the track). I'm thinking just swapping out the infamous RE92s for the grippier Dunlop SP5000s or the BFG g-force KDWSs would help alleviate this problem.
Some while back someone here posted a link to a site selling protector screens for the intercooler. I believe this was a stainless steel screen w/ a frame that matched the hood scoop gasket. I seem to have lost the link. If anyone has it do you think you could repost it?
So how do you explain the same phenomenon on other cars? I've heard people with Isuzus, Nissans, etc. complain of the same thing. OEM tires/suspension combined with washboard roads/expansion joints/potholes/RR tracks. It's not a WRX only thing and is related to the tires/suspension IMHO.
I love the idea of getting both the WRX and IS300 nschulman3, but that would have to be in a different life. Must be great for you, though. I need the other car to be something that can haul my family around.
I've never heard of any other car having this ABS behavior, but I don't pretend to be an expert. I would love to hear something from Subaru about it one way or the other. I'm a software guy and somehow it sounds like a s/w bug to me, but I could be projecting.
wrxoris300- I'm neither an expert nor a software person, but I see it more of a limitation than a bug. The ABS is programed and functions within a parameter and surely there's only so more instructions (variables) those chip could hold. If every micro variables has to be programed into the system to eliminate any chance of 'failure', we'll be lugging a supercomputer in our vehicle.
Hypov might be on the right track here. ABS systems in general may have some built-in quirks that become very apparant in certain situations, like RR tracks and washboard roads. Also, there was a test report in a road mag a while back that showed ABS systems take a lot longer to stop on ice than non-ABS systems. It could be that ABS is great on the test track, but has more limitations in real world driving than we previously realized.
I haven't had the problem since going to 17 in wheels.There was one set of railway lines where I could reproduce the problem fairly often but to be fair, to do it I was driving in shall we say, a less than very cautious way approaching the crossing! If I actually came off the brakes and then pushed again - almost pumping - when it happens, it seemed to solve the phenomenon. I had a similar experience once driving a Euro spec BMW, but this was in the 80s and I really can't remember all the details plus I'm sure ABS tech was not as refined then. A few years later there was almost a class action lawsuit against BMW by some owners who had early production US spec cars, many of these were military/diplomatic guys driving around in Europe in US spec models before they were shipping to the US. It seemed to be a problem intrinsic to certain models with ABS and LSD. I know about this because a colleague had one that crashed and killed 3 people! It was a legal mess, he almost went to jail in England. BMW wouldn't pay for his car to be replaced as they said he must have been driving dangerously. Both the passenger and my friend swear they were simply overtaking someone and not driving agressively at all when he braked and lost control completely and hit an oncoming car. He had the insurance the manufacturer sell to people who take delivery in Europe. However, he was covered for DM100,000 in legal fees. He told a German lawyer to rack up 100K in fees charged to BMW. When they realised what he was up to , they settled and paid for a new car as it would cost them less than paying out 100K! His German attorney found out there were a bunch of similar cases. Haven't some insurance companies stopped giving discounts for ABS equipped cars as they had as many , if not more crashes , than non equipped ones? You certainly don't stop in less distance.
Had this problem happen to me one time. I was going about 35mph preparing to make a right turn .. stepped on the brake and it felt like I was on ice. Had the dealer check out my car and they didn't find anything wrong. I've spoken to SOA, who BTW are in denial about this issue. Fuse #8 came out and will stay out until the source problem is discovered and corrected.
Mike, yes other mfg's (including ISUZU) have had problems with their ABS. A guy from NTSB mentioned that when I spoke with them. Apparently the source of those problems were identified and corrective action was taken. The WRX problem is, to my knowledge, not being pursued by SOA. In the mean time, I hope nobody get seriously hurt. - Hutch
Juice, the IS300 was, IMHO, the best of the cars they foolishly let us play with. I really don't remember the rear seat. Was it small?
I still check in here everyday, I just haven't had much time to comment. Between work and scuba diving, I've been a busy boy. Lynn and I went to Bonaire for a week of diving in April and loved the place so much we're headed back in July. If there are any divers out there, Bonaire is worth looking into. - Hutch
Belize is on our list for next year. All the dive mag's review it quite highly. However, Bonaire is the place. They've set the standard for Marine Preservation around the world. I dove in Riveria Maya last year, very close to Belize, and there is no comparison. -Hutch PS - Ah .. I plan to get there fast! There, that's sorta WRX related .. huh?
In about a week a buddy of mine with a WRX is going to be starting to sell a version. Should be pretty cheap. What do you think a good price should be?
Who's your buddy? Would it be dop50? He's willing to make one too. dop50 Jun 5, 2002 12:59pm I guess it would depend on the material, design, how it's mounted, etc. I was looking at those ready made screen/filter from a local hardware store. Just didn't have the dimensions then but looks like it might work. Just have to figure out how to clamp it down securely.
A wild price guess for me would be around $9-$12. Can't be plastic, and can't be too fine meshing. Don't want to restrict airflow. dop50 has the idea.
Anybody picked up fog light covers at http://www.revolutionsmotorsports.com/ Are they worth it? Does the light still project good with covers on? I see the pictures but how do they look on yours? Kinda seems pricey but hey, supply and demand I guess.
I went out to the local Home Depot, picked up some alum screening there. It's not quite the quality of that which I mentioned in a pervious post, but it should work just fine.
Anyway, it was 48"x84" and only about $8. I figure I can make about 42 screens with that!
What I did was just cut a piece about 16x5 3/4 or so, and made sure it would lay flat, and just set it on the intercooler, The boot is slightly smaller than that and it appears to be working just fine. It's not fancy or anything, but it's functional.
I figure these could be a little less expensive. I suppose it would depend on what people want, if they want fancy edging and all, then they would cost more. But, just a simple screen cut out could be done for about $5 each, plus shipping. (Geez, the packing materials would cost more than the screen!). Actually, you should just go to the store and buy your own screen, cut out a bunch of them, and just replace them when they get dirty.
The higher quality screen I mentioned before would still have to be about $15, simply because of the extra costs involved.
I bought these new Subaru OEM fog light covers (made in Australia). They snap right on to protect the fogs and do the job without impeding light output.
About to pick up my new blue 5spd WRX wagon here in MN. Basically getting all the PIO's save the Performance group.
Wondering if anyone has recommendations for online aftermarket parts suppliers (appearance & performance). Not seeking anything specific yet.
Getting it with 17" Prodrive P1s w/ Sumitomo treads. Putting Haka's on the OE rims for winter. Also will be getting the rear windows tinted at some point - surprised it doesn't come with tinted glass...
It looks like there is a gasket under the hood scoop that fits over the intercooler. Is this something that is supposed to ensure an air-tight seal? I wonder if these home made screens interfere with that somehow?
Cinosweive, the gasket you refer to is a very flexible rubber boot. It helps to direct the air from the hood scoop through the intercooler. Without it, the air would just blow around under the hood and not go thru the cooler at all. It is not an air tight fit, but does come into contact with the fin area of the cooler. It is flexible because the engine does rock a bit, it's just good design. This is why I am using a simple plain alum screen placed in the area of the cooler where the boot holds it in place. It's thin enough to not interfere with anything, and by using the same material as the cooler fins are made of, it won't cause any damage and it won't be moving around because the boot holds it in place and the boot absorbs any vibration or movement. That plus the fact that the screen gives an open area approx twice the size of the scoop opening insures good air flow. The fins in the cooler take up more area than the screen does. So I figure this is a pretty safe (and cheap) method of prolonging the life of the cooler. There is really no reason that I can think of, to make it more elaborate, you don't even need to hem the edges or frame it. That in my opinion, would only keep it from laying flat when the hood is closed.
Thanks for the info on the fog light covers warpdrive, I'll check w/ my local dealer.
dop50, so the screen does not need any fastening? The boot pressure is enough to hold it in place? Just wondering, I wouldn't want it to cause any shorts, cutting wires or getting chewed up by other moving parts under the hood. Thanks for all the info though.
Comments
Are you coming to the meet in SI on wed?
-mike
I believe I'll be attending a h.s. spring concert tomorrow night. Are you going to Woodbridge next Wed.? Or no, because it's not a speedbuggy sanctioned event?
-Dennis
-mike
Ed
On vacation?
-Dave
Ed - Wooodbridge won't be the same without paisan. :-) I see that Mitch is going though and one or two other Backroads Drive guys. I'm still up in the air on it.
-Dennis
Have a Rexing Day!
Patti
Mitch might be heading to SI instead.
-Dave
-mike
-juice
I suggest using the aluminum screen to avoid damage to the cooler fins, if you use steel you could cause damage, if you use fiberglass it may melt. The aluminum screen placed right on the cooler would be easy to remove and clean.
If there is enough interest, I might be willing to make these for you guys, for say, $15 plus shipping. Email me at: dopheide@ksni.net.
Or you can order the screen yourself from McMaster Carr #9227T432 is a 12"x24" sheet for about $9.32, and will yield (2) screens. www.mcmaster.com
I am not in any way affiliated with McMaster Carr, I just know it to be a good source for this kind of thing.
Ken (PS our trip to the West has been postponed till Sept.)
Second, I'm an over-40 female who likes cars, and I too feel years younger when I drive my WRX--wish I could have had it 10 years ago (but couldn't afford something like it then). I'd like to say that for those who complain that the turbo doesn't kick in until about 3000 rpms or so, that's OK--when you're doing city driving or in stop-and-go traffic, who needs it? As long as you can use that kick when you need it. It's a well-mannered car, and handles sooo well (I had a Honda Prelude at one point, and I loved that car, but the WRX is better!).
Sonya4
Second, for being >40 and not driving a Camry or Volvo....a 5sp Rex nonetheless and loving it.
Third, for loving her Rex for what it is with what it has. I'm not a race car driver either. There's a lot of nice sporty cars here in CA but they all drive the same speed during peak hours - 5/10 mph. But those on ramps, off ramps and curves will never be the same with a WRX. It's nice to know you can either get out of the way or in front of "skill deprived" drivers or wanna-be's. Good luck!
As for being over 40 and not driving a Camry or Volvo--are you kidding!! I wouldn't be caught driving those cars (no offense to any Camry or Volvo owners, but they just aren't my style). I've always liked sports/sporty cars--was in fact considering an Audi TT and the Acura RSX besides the WRX--but decided the WRX was the better choice all-around.
Does anybody know if the WRX will be offered in a 2-door coupe--besides more hp--where the rear seats can be folded down? I've been reading the car magazines etc. but so far, it's only offered as a 4-door sedan.
Sonya4
-Dennis
Patti
--Sonya4
Am I missing something about the ABS failures? It sounds like there is nothing that can be done when the problem strikes other than wait for the brakes to come back (downshift on the manual I guess) and hope that there isn't a critical need to stop immediately in front.
Btw, the IS300 base model is only about $2,000 (US$) more than the WRX in Canada, so I don't feel I'm comparing completely different cars. I like the AWD and exhilarating acceleration on the WRX and the handling and refinement of the IS300.
Apparently, the handful encounters were WRX wearing 16" wheels, and those who have switched over to 17" have not reported any occurance or reoccurance.
-Dave
-mike
Stephen
Not being into autocross, I like the 16 inchers already on the car and would hate to swap them out (they give a slightly more comfortable ride than the 17", plus are a fraction of a second quicker 0-60, although admittedly not as good handling on the track). I'm thinking just swapping out the infamous RE92s for the grippier Dunlop SP5000s or the BFG g-force KDWSs would help alleviate this problem.
-mike
I've never heard of any other car having this ABS behavior, but I don't pretend to be an expert. I would love to hear something from Subaru about it one way or the other. I'm a software guy and somehow it sounds like a s/w bug to me, but I could be projecting.
I'm neither an expert nor a software person, but I see it more of a limitation than a bug. The ABS is programed and functions within a parameter and surely there's only so more instructions (variables) those chip could hold. If every micro variables has to be programed into the system to eliminate any chance of 'failure', we'll be lugging a supercomputer in our vehicle.
-Dave
I had a similar experience once driving a Euro spec BMW, but this was in the 80s and I really can't remember all the details plus I'm sure ABS tech was not as refined then. A few years later there was almost a class action lawsuit against BMW by some owners who had early production US spec cars, many of these were military/diplomatic guys driving around in Europe in US spec models before they were shipping to the US. It seemed to be a problem intrinsic to certain models with ABS and LSD. I know about this because a colleague had one that crashed and killed 3 people! It was a legal mess, he almost went to jail in England. BMW wouldn't pay for his car to be replaced as they said he must have been driving dangerously. Both the passenger and my friend swear they were simply overtaking someone and not driving agressively at all when he braked and lost control completely and hit an oncoming car. He had the insurance the manufacturer sell to people who take delivery in Europe. However, he was covered for DM100,000 in legal fees. He told a German lawyer to rack up 100K in fees charged to BMW. When they realised what he was up to , they settled and paid for a new car as it would cost them less than paying out 100K! His German attorney found out there were a bunch of similar cases.
Haven't some insurance companies stopped giving discounts for ABS equipped cars as they had as many , if not more crashes , than non equipped ones? You certainly don't stop in less distance.
Mike, yes other mfg's (including ISUZU) have had problems with their ABS. A guy from NTSB mentioned that when I spoke with them. Apparently the source of those problems were identified and corrective action was taken. The WRX problem is, to my knowledge, not being pursued by SOA. In the mean time, I hope nobody get seriously hurt.
- Hutch
Remember that IS300 we drove at Edmunds Live? Those things are fun, even with automatic. I can definitely see the appeal.
The rear seat is a bit tight, so I'd also consider the Infiniti G35 in that price range.
-juice
I still check in here everyday, I just haven't had much time to comment. Between work and scuba diving, I've been a busy boy. Lynn and I went to Bonaire for a week of diving in April and loved the place so much we're headed back in July. If there are any divers out there, Bonaire is worth looking into.
- Hutch
You should go to Belize to visit the Blue Hole. It's the 2nd biggest coral reef in the world, and the biggest living coral reef.
-juice
-Hutch
PS - Ah .. I plan to get there fast! There, that's sorta WRX related .. huh?
-mike
A wild price guess for me would be around $9-$12. Can't be plastic, and can't be too fine meshing. Don't want to restrict airflow. dop50 has the idea.
-mike
Anybody picked up fog light covers at http://www.revolutionsmotorsports.com/ Are they worth it? Does the light still project good with covers on? I see the pictures but how do they look on yours? Kinda seems pricey but hey, supply and demand I guess.
Anyway, it was 48"x84" and only about $8. I figure I can make about 42 screens with that!
What I did was just cut a piece about 16x5 3/4 or so, and made sure it would lay flat, and just set it on the intercooler, The boot is slightly smaller than that and it appears to be working just fine. It's not fancy or anything, but it's functional.
I figure these could be a little less expensive. I suppose it would depend on what people want, if they want fancy edging and all, then they would cost more. But, just a simple screen cut out could be done for about $5 each, plus shipping. (Geez, the packing materials would cost more than the screen!). Actually, you should just go to the store and buy your own screen, cut out a bunch of them, and just replace them when they get dirty.
The higher quality screen I mentioned before would still have to be about $15, simply because of the extra costs involved.
Have fun!
Ken
Australian made Subaru fog light covers
Was about $76.00 Cdn at my dealer. Part number SCI700214
Wondering if anyone has recommendations for online aftermarket parts suppliers (appearance & performance). Not seeking anything specific yet.
Getting it with 17" Prodrive P1s w/ Sumitomo treads. Putting Haka's on the OE rims for winter. Also will be getting the rear windows tinted at some point - surprised it doesn't come with tinted glass...
Thanks in advance,
Sean
Other options include subaruparts.com and subaru-parts.com.
-juice
This is why I am using a simple plain alum screen placed in the area of the cooler where the boot holds it in place. It's thin enough to not interfere with anything, and by using the same material as the cooler fins are made of, it won't cause any damage and it won't be moving around because the boot holds it in place and the boot absorbs any vibration or movement.
That plus the fact that the screen gives an open area approx twice the size of the scoop opening insures good air flow. The fins in the cooler take up more area than the screen does.
So I figure this is a pretty safe (and cheap) method of prolonging the life of the cooler. There is really no reason that I can think of, to make it more elaborate, you don't even need to hem the edges or frame it. That in my opinion, would only keep it from laying flat when the hood is closed.
Ken
dop50, so the screen does not need any fastening? The boot pressure is enough to hold it in place? Just wondering, I wouldn't want it to cause any shorts, cutting wires or getting chewed up by other moving parts under the hood. Thanks for all the info though.