Cadillac Catera Maintenance & Repair

1…1112141617…29

Comments

  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The voltmeter should be exactly at the midway point as that is 12 volts. Normal operating range is between 11 and 13 volts (each notch on the voltmeter equals one volt). If the voltmeter reads above 13 or below 11, the battery will either be overcharged or undercharged causing problems with the electrical system so you're right on the money halfway. So I would just let it be. A sound proverb for a Catera owner is that old cliche = "if it isn't broke - don't try to fix it!!". :D
  • easyselleasysell Member Posts: 4
    Thanks gnguru. My son is actually the driver. I test drove it after I put the new alternator in. So I quiz him about the gauges. I guess we'll just drive it a few days and if the battery dies again I'll be on here again. Reading this sight was real depressing at st. But as you stated, it is a sight for fixing broke stuff. Regarding the issue on the brake pads and the sensors. If you replace the pads before the sensors are effected can the sensors be reused? Also is there a web site where I can get a picture of the dash and all the different icons and what they mean? The owners manual didn't come with the car.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Yes, as long as the loop in the brake sensor warning system has not been broken (dash light would come on if loop has been broken), the sensors are still good and can be reused. Not sure of a site for viewing dash icons. The Owner's Manual doesn't really show the entire dash listing each icon but shows each one seperately on various pages of the manual. Some are self explanatory like an oil can is of course an oil problem and small radiator is cooling problem but some are definitely hard to understand. If you tell me exactly which ones you have a problem with I'll be glad to tell you what they mean. My email address is in a previous post if you want to e me direct or we can do it through this site. I'm sure posting on this site helps numerous people that we never hear a peep from. Cheers :)
  • jpmccrjpmccr Member Posts: 31
    My wife has a 99 Catera with around 77K miles on it. We had the oil changed recently and the mechanic said we had an "excessive" oil leak. I looked and I noticed a dip of oil hanging on the bottom cross member below the oil pan(?). There is a wet spot on the pavement where we park. Any ideas what could cause the leak and what can be done for a fix. Thanks . . .
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    My best guess would be the valve covers are leaking as this is a common problem with Cateras. Of course for a fix you will need to install new valve cover gaskets, not a fun job at all................ :(
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    I have a friend that purchased a nice '99 Catera a couple of years ago. He still has a year's worth of payments left, but the car has a serious problem. Even though it runs OK, motor oil is mixing with the coolant, and gumming up the radiator. His mechanic first thought the transmission cooler in the radiator broke, and he replaced the radiator. But, it is still happening, and the motor oil is disappearing from the oil pan. His mechanic has diagnosed a blown head gasket, but other symptoms are not there. Compression is good, and no water is leaking into the cylinders. Only oil into the cooling system. I understand that a head gasket problem may be causing this, but, being unfamiliar with these German engines, is there another gasket that can fail, and allow oil to be pumped into the cooling system? Where is the oil pump located, and is there a known issue like this? BTW, this car has 125K miles. It did have Dex-cool in the radiator.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Phil the oil cooler is in the motor. Held there by banjo bolts (bolts which have liquid ports) which might need tightening. Thats an excellent opportunity for oil and coolant mixing. Wish I had a dollar for each time this was assumed a head gasket.
  • toelldus000toelldus000 Member Posts: 1
    i just recently got an 01 catera as my first car, after i got it home i relized that one of the plastic cadillac symbol caps was missing from the rim. Any idea where i could find new one/s
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Well, that's an easy one to answer!! If you're looking for a "new" one as you say, you'll have to go to your nearest Cadillac dealer and they can order it for you if they don't have one in stock. However, you might be able to fine one alot cheaper at a salvage yard. If that's the only problem you have with your new car, consider yourself lucky!! ;)
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    Thanks for the tip. Are there any good repair manuals that will help guide me through this? Can the banjo bolts be gotten to easily, or do I have to drop the oil pan? I will look over the car again later today. Again, thanks.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Its under the intake manifold, but first see if you have oil in your coolant. The unit bathes in coolant to cool off your oil.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    That is exactly the problem. The oil is leaking out into the coolant, but coolant is not showing up in the oil, and there is no loss of compression, or coolant showing up in the exhaust. Thanks again. I'm looking for a service repair manual right now.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    Top of the day to you: More than likley you do not have blown head gasket remember heads, block whats going with the intake mainfold loose bolts blown intake seals , and you never said anything about white smoke out of the exhaust is the oil in the raidiator
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    The only problem is oil mixing with coolant in the radiator and cooling system. It is not blowing any white smoke. The dealer serviceman's first reaction was transmission fluid mixing with the coolant, and replaced the radiator. But, the transmission is not losing fluid. The motor oil is mixing with the coolant. The car was very low on motor oil, not transmission fluid. I'm still trying to get my hands on a service repair manual and found a couple of websites offering the two volume GM shop set. We are going to remove the intake manifold and check the motor oil cooler first. I already confirmed that we can get the intake gasket set locally.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    What kind of a dealer did you take it to? Let us know what you come up with.
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    It was a local dealer, Hennessy Cadillac, here in NE Atlanta.
  • richter1richter1 Member Posts: 8
    This must be contagious, The same thing just happened to mine on thursday. does the water in your coolant tank look like a chocalate milk shake. Slimey & sticky, Did you pinpoint that it is your oil cooler & how do I find this. Good luck & thanks
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    Actually, this stuff looks like Hersheys chocolate syrup. But, it is slimey and sticky. I haven't confirmed it is a leak at the engine oil cooler yet. But, it seems like the most logical source. We are trying to get our hands on a service repair manual before digging in. I think we will start on it this weekend. I'll post updates.

    I can thank dallasdude1 for the suggestion about the oil cooler. I figured it may have been something along those lines when I first inspected the car, but could not find a provision for an oil cooler. Hiding it under the intake manifold is a strange design, but these German engineers seem to rarely think about ease of maintenance in their designs anymore.
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Once there you will have to determine if a banjo bolt worked loose or if the coolant has eaten through the oil cooler unit itself. The washers and or liquid lines on a banjo bolt is a sort of gasket which must be tightened to a spec or until it doesn't leak. So if its just that a tightening might just do the trick. What most places would do is replace everything, connections and the oil cooling unit. However, that may not be required. Then you need to get the oil out of the cooling system. If the coolant is not changed often on these cars you run the risk of the coolant becoming an acid and eating away/erroding the oil cooler. Knowing all this, I hope you will only have to do this one time.
  • calicagocalicago Member Posts: 53
    HHmmmm hey I herd a lot of chater about that banjo deal that might be it when you do open it up don't forget to pressure test it so you can see the leek you can rent that tool from Adavance Auto, O'reily , :shades: Auto Zone etc, etc
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Hey Phil
    It sounds like the oil cooler is is leaking which is located under the intake. I just had mine replaced in my 98 in March it cost me 1,000$ from an honest shop here in Phx dealer gave me 1800-2k ballpark est I inherited this car from an X-employee........ after 2500$ (free car my [non-permissible content removed]) I got her running GREAT Iv learned a lot about Catera's and common problems they have If you have any questions let me know
  • phil2400phil2400 Member Posts: 29
    Thanks. I might just do that. We found a GM SRM, and expect it in time for this weekend.
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    We have 99 catera just turn 100,00 miles , its great car with issues it just started shutting off let sit 15/20 starts 2-3 miles off again or let sit 3-4 minutes off so ordered crank sensor hope solve our problem also !! Radio was easy 2nd fuse from driver side 2nd row also controls water valve to keep hot water from flowing while a/c on the sensor on top fried caught fire I put out luckly the valve was open so had heat in car until replace !!
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    70 miles after a oil change on my 98 Catera the oil warning buzzed and light came on, pressure was low but never went down into the red. After shutting it down light came on once again. After second shutdown drove it about 2 more miles, it never came on again. Today it had great psi (40-50) when at idle 60-80 at 2,500 rpm until it reached normal operating temp. (little over 3/4 on temp gauge) then about 30-50 at 2,500 rpm and just above the red at idle, but light hasn't came on again. Just get a little scared when I hear buzzing and see red oil light. If anyone has any ideas please share them with me. After putting about 3k into her Iv had no problems with her for about 4 months I just took my mechanics phone # off of speed dial
    Thanks all
  • dallasdude1dallasdude1 Member Posts: 1,151
    Be sure that it has 6 quarts of oil in it. Glance into the coolant overflow, it should not have any oil and or be dark. This car will hold more than 6 quarts, without blowing motor seals, so you can add a quart with no problem.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    Yep I checked it dip stick was right on I got charged for 6 quarts. I know all about oil in the reservoir just replaced oil cooler 4 months ago
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Mom's '98 with 60K miles is the same way. The warmer the temperature, the lower the oil pressure and at idle sometimes it goes way down but never in the red and the light hasn't come on. I think it is a characteristic of Cateras but Dallasdude is right, be sure to watch the dipstick and keep it up on full. Alot of quick lube places will only put in 5 quarts of oil with a filter change as so many american cars have a 5 quart capacity but the Catera takes 6, so you have to watch them closely. We just developed a new problem on her Catera which was new to me and the Cadillac garage and I don't think I've ever seen anything on this forum about it. The steering wheel anti-theft locking device doesn't completely disengage when you turn the ignition switch on. Needless to say the first time it happened I had the wheel turned to the far right waiting for a light to change and wanting to go straight. Started to go and the wheel wouldn't straighten up :surprise: . Talked about freaked out!! Glad I wasn't in a hard right turn at 50 MPH. LOL Fortunately no one was behind me and I was able to back-up into the parking lot. LOL Now have it where when you turn the wheel it clicks and there's a small amount of back pressure but at least you can drive it. It's now in the local Catera hospital :sick: . Would have tackled it myself but don't like messing with anything near an air bag. Haha Heard to many horror stories about an air bag going off and throwing a wrench into someone's head. Told the service guy that I want a cheap fix. If they can leave a part out and the steering wheel doesn't lock - then that's fine. Maybe make it easier for some one to steal it which would be great!! Mom needs to get a new Lexus anyway!! LOL Has anyone else experienced a problem like this?? I'll let ya all know the diagnosis...
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    We had same problem and was told to use 10 w 30 instead of 5 w seems better if anything changes will let know and we also use synthetic oil !!!
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The only time you should use 5w-30 oil in a Catera is if you live in Alaska or are driving only in the winter months and/or the temperature is not going to get above 60 degrees F before your next oil change. Otherwise, always use SAE 10w-30 oil. I too highly believe in using synthetic oil and usually use Mobil 1 and always use the premium oil filter. Alittle more expensive than regular oil & filter but alot cheaper than a new engine..... :)
  • jonw3jonw3 Member Posts: 4
    after i start my car it runs good for about 45 sec. and them i get a very bad miss and a stall.any help on this problem? i checked the fuel filter and i have put injector cleaner in a full tank of gas. it is a 2001 catera
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    We changed crank sensor today and it did not fix problem still shuts off after hot and let sit for awhile and starts again any other ideas !! :sick:
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    When you say "hot" how hot is "hot"?? :confuse:
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    Just regular running temp it does not over heat / no problems with coolant system knock on wood !! Let run about 4/5 minutes cuts off let sit 15/20 minutes cool off starts again same thing over and over !! :sick:
  • easyselleasysell Member Posts: 4
    finally got charging system working ok, I hope. Now the right side cooling fan is staying on. I found a sight that had owners manuals on it. I located the relay and pulled it. That stopped the fan. When you reinsert it starts again. So I assume relay is stuck in closed position and allowing fan to run constantly. Anybody know of additional problems causing this? Also I put a bunch of groceries in car last night and level light came on for about 2 minutes and went off. Assume compressor was leveling. Then on way home it came on again and stayed on. After I got home turned car off unloaded and it stayed off. Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    every time my great dane gets in the back seat it does the same, comes on for a couple min at first then goes off until I hit a bump or he moves from one side to the other then stays on until he gets out but when he is in front seat no problem except sometimes he wants to drive as far as the fan goes mine stays on for about 5-10 min after shutdown when outside temp is above 95 (April - Sept here) but never effected the battery
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    Ok people bear with me. I'm not the birghtest guy ion the car when it comes to cars, but does my 98 Catera suppose to have oil in the spark plug hole. Yesterday me and my dad were trying to test drive the car and figured it was not the transmission, but rather the oil pressure due to me not being able to go up a hill. So he tells me to check the spark plugs to see if there is oil on them affecting firing of the car. today i checked its a TON of oil in the spark plug hole......all of them! I was thinking it was for lubrication and then that "voice" said "When have you even know for a spark plug wire to have lubrication. I know its not suppose to be oil on spark plugs but I just figured "Heck, its a cadillac CATERA"...enough said. Does anyone know how to get the oil out or anything of that nature?!
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    CPS worked they reset car today and it runs great again no other problems right now , :) knock on wood !!! Remember everything you do to this car you must let it reset itself !!
  • blk00caterablk00catera Member Posts: 10
    What does the oil look like?

    If its viscosity is something like what you would put directly in to the car, I would see about getting a compression check done on each cylinder. You may be able to rent this tool from a local Autozone.

    If looks dried and kind of crusty I would change the plugs and possibly run a slightly thicker oil like 10w30 if you aren't already.

    Granted I am no auto technician, just giving my .02
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Was the oil actually on the firing end of the spark plug or are you saying it was in the indent where the spark plug screws in? If it's the later, you may have leaking valve covers (common problem with Cateras) causing the oil to run down to the plugs indents and ignition wires which could eventually reduce your firing power...
  • patsampatsam Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 catera I just had to replace the battery.for the first time. Now I have a leak at the back of the engine. I think it is the heater valve from what I have seen here. however my ac and heater are working fine. Is this something that may need to reset itself? I put my hand back there and it was dry but once I ran the car it was wet again. My temp gauge is fine but my Radiator<. light comes on and off.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Most likely the heater control valve. It would be GREAT but unfortunately - NO, it will not reset itself. Has nothing to do with AC/heat other than if you lost enough water/anti-freeze your heater would not function properly but by then your engine would be overheating anyway. It is only going to leak when the pressure is built up in the cooling system..
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    We got car running with change of cps drove couple times worst more you drive , now started running sluggish like half power and ideas out there !!! :(
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    hey there...... I had a similar problem with my 01. Would get very little speed ( limped home) very little power on any up hill road.... etc etc etc... seemed to run on perhaps three cylinders....................... had it checked out by a diagnostic shop and showed that the main engin computer was out... replaced it and now it is fine....... just a thought. Lee ( a good shop can take care of it for about half of a dealer cost.....)
  • train3train3 Member Posts: 7
    Today I went out and started the 99 cateria now we been having all kind of problem cps running bad radio who knows whats next !! Today I started car with foot on floor gas pedal did not pump , when it started let run , idle went up to 1500 - 1800 rpms , then dropped off so I ran to town 12 miles got some fuel cleaner and filled with high test , coming home open up couple times and engine light went out car took off and has ran all day great turned off several times and started just make sure fluke !! SO for now it runs better now then since bought it in May !! Cross finger and dont hold breath !!! :shades:
  • yaboy20031yaboy20031 Member Posts: 7
    I got my unlce to take everything apart and my valve cover gaskets were dry rotted. Oil was past the height of the spark plugs....basically to the top of the cover gasket thing. We're gonna have to get new wires. After doing all that, we saw that my ignition wires were bad as well.
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    Unusual for the valve cover gaskets to get "dry rot", unless maybe the car was not operated for a long period of time. They usually just kind of get compressed and wear out after a period of time and start leaking. Anyway, once the valve cover gaskets start to leak and enough oil gets onto the ignition wires, the integrity of the wires is shot and they will have to be replaced along with the valve cover gaskets.
  • leevandam1leevandam1 Member Posts: 28
    Hey there ya'all....... the "s" light is blinking on my 01 cat. it is the light connected to the little button on the shift lever... anyone have any ideas on why this might be blinking?? thanks.....
  • bradcadbradcad Member Posts: 9
    You might need to check if you accidently pressed the button on the shifter knob... it then lights up the dash indicator... i think its for posi-track... you might check your owners manual on that to be sure.
  • az_hvyaz_hvy Member Posts: 30
    I have never seen it flash on my 98,it is ether on or off. I do know that the "S button" when used is to manually shift your automatic transmission. The flashing part is a new one on me
  • gngurugnguru Member Posts: 108
    The "S" button is solely to put the car in an increased performance mode instead of the normal driving mode. It does not cause you to need or have to shift manually. It just shifts gears alittle quicker but is still an automatic. Like you said, it is either on or off. Flashing apparently indicates there is a problem but nothing is noted about flashing in the owner's manual or the tech manuals. Could just be a problem with the light itself...hehe.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.