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Comments
I just did my first oil change and got the new ecu reflashed ...gased up to a great mpg of 30.8- 70% highway and 30% of sprited riding ;
I have the last 18 gas fill and mileage in a notebook .
i am happy to hit 30 mpg before 5k miles and i am thinking by 15k this will improve by another 2-3 miles
a satified buyer
If your trunk is empty, you can probably fit 4 bags in there (and maybe even a small caddy)!!!
Or, if you get a hatchback you can fit your clubs and a blow-up matress for your girlfriend! (Or, a blow-up girlfriend for your matress!)
The 17" wheels are standard with the base 6S, 6i Sport, 6S sport, and 6i Grand Touring and Grand Sport.
I'm now pondering three different models, and I really can't make a clear decision for any of them:
MZ3s GT auto w/bose&moonroof package
MZ6i sport model auto w/bose&moonroof package
MZ6s sport model auto w/bose&moonroof package
How do all of the engines compare to eachother?...are the 4-cylinders on the 3s and 6i still pretty peppy?..Also, as far as I can tell, the only difference b/w the 6i and 6s sport is the engine and automatic A/C...is there anything else I am missing?...and is gas mileage inthe 6s much worse than the other two?...Any insight would really help me with my decision!!
...are the 4-cylinders on the 3s and 6i still pretty peppy?
On the 3, the auto isn't too bad, but on the 6i, it's a real dog. You may not be an aggressive driver, but if you drive in rush-hour traffic, with a lot of stop-n-go, the 6i auto is very lethargic, especially compared to the 3s and 6s. Again, it's all my opinion, I suggest you test-drive then yourself to see if it fits your needs. Is a manual transmission out of the question?
..Also, as far as I can tell, the only difference b/w the 6i and 6s sport is the engine and automatic A/C...is there anything else I am missing?
No, that's pretty much it. There were small trim differences in the '04 models. I doubt they still exist for '06. Oh yeah, the 6i gets a 5-speed auto, while the 6s gets a 6-speed auto.
...and is gas mileage inthe 6s much worse than the other two?
I can't give you a definitive answer on that, but from what I've heard, there's obviously a difference, but with the new 6-speed for the 6S, it's not that bad. The 6-speed actually gets better gas mileage than the 5-speed manual, according to the EPA.
For me, the difference in gas mileage would be offset by flooring the 4-cyl all the time to get it up to speed, as compared to the power the 6S offers. But again, go test-drive them yourself to see what works for you.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
I have driven a new 5 speed for a test drive and notice that the rpms are over 3,000 at 70 and you get considerable engine noise. Are the rpm's lower on the automatic at 70 mph? What are they for you?? Does this impact your gas milegage? engine noise?
Thanks,
Hox :shades:
Buying ANY car is a risk, whether it's a Honda, Ford, or Mazda. Just because the 6S has a Duratec doesn't mean it's destined to be at the shop every month. Buying a Honda doesn't mean you won't have problems either. A co-worker bought a V6 Accord only a month after I bought my 6, and it's been back at the dealer a total of five times now, for a multitude of problems. All the reliability ratings mean nothing to a person that bought a Honda that turns into a lemon, nor to a Jaguar or Ford owner that's had NO problems with their cars.
If you believe that the 6S is more exciting than the Accord (which I agree, BTW), then don't hesitate to buy it. As I said before, buying ANY car is a risk, and I'd rather enjoy the drive, instead of just getting from A to B. :shades:
I'm just about ready to pick up a 6s. I was originally thinking going with the sport, but now I'm tempted to splurge for the grand sport. A co-worker just mentioned to me this week that his father works for ford and might be able to land me a pretty nice discount for family & friends (3% below invoice + incentives)....so once i find out about that, i'll hopefully be driving off in a new 6!
What's the saying? "Take care of your car, and it'll take care of you." 150K should be no problem with either of the engines. The Duratec has been around for years, notably in the Contour, Probe and MX-6, and I still see a lot of them on the road today...
If it is taking a little oil, I'd still have it looked at, just to be sure nothing is actually wrong. Other than that, don't worry about it.
This CRP is specifically for the Mazda 6s (V6) platform.
PCV
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is a check valve that allows excess exhaust fumes in the crank case to re-enter the intake manifold and be re-combusted for emissions sake.
Problem:
If the valve breaks (its basically plastic), one of two things can happen,
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?p=36503#36503
1: The valve gets stuck close. Pressure builds up in the crankcase, eventually finding an outlet. This usually results in oil spraying back up into the intake tract, or blowing the dipstick out of its holder.
2: The valve gets stuck open. When vaccuum is applied (application of throttle), the intake air sucks the oil out of the crankcase using the pcv hose as a large straw.
Problem 2:
If option 2 occurs, a low oil condition can occur, which has an extremely high likelyhood of spinning a bearing. This can result in just a rod bearing replacement, or a complete bottom end rebuild. ($$$ and Very Bad)
Identifying The Problem:
Weekly oil checks will reveal a sudden increase in oil consumption. Sometimes blue smoke exiting the exhaust can be indicative of oil being sucked into the intake tract of the engine (and being burned in the combustion chamber).
Solutions:
There is no "concrete" solution at this time. The only thing that can be done is preventative maintance.
1. Check your oil level at least bi-weekly or weekly. It only takes a few seconds. Pop the hood before leaving in the morning (weekends are great for this) and just check the dipstick. Oil level should be between the top 0 and the ford logo on the dipstick.
2. Inspect the PCV valve every oil change (5-7.5k miles). Below is instructions on how to do so. Easiest method would be removing the hose from the rear of the manifold, and applying pressure/vaccuum to test for resistance.
3/ Purchase a second PCV valve and run it in-line with the current valve (on the same hose). This will provide a level of redundancy. If one of the valves should fail, the car will still be ok.
Hi, I have similar questions as dairyshick.
Mazda bills the 6 as an "alternative to the boring sedan". Though I know that's marketing hype that should be taken with a grain of salt, I wonder if a 6, especially a 6i is worth getting, or more fun to drive, as opposed to the usual "CamCords" or a Hyundai Sonata or Pontiac G6?
I did test drive an '05 6i with 4 spd automatic. Didn't feel much different from the 4 cyl 4spd auto Accord EX I'm driving now, maybe just slightly more responsive. Perhaps I wasn't pushing it enough during the test drive or maybe there just weren't any curvy roads that showed off the 6's handling, but from the seat of the pants, I didn't notice anything special or different. Do you need a 6s V6 to notice any difference in the "fun to drive factor"? I'm not really looking at the 6s right now due to higher cost of purchase, worse fuel economy, and lower reliability rating in Consumer Reports.
Would a 6i with a manual trans be non-lethargic? I can't really drive m.t. right now but wouldn't mind learning. Would a 6 make a good first time car for m.t.?
Guess while we're on the subject, what do people here think makes a car, especially the 6, fun to drive, if it indeed is?
Thanks in advance.
Do you need a 6s V6 to notice any difference in the "fun to drive factor"?
Absolutely not, at least with the manual. I test drove the 6i with manual a bunch of times before buying the 6s, and I found it just as fun to drive as the 6s. In fact, the handling is slightly more balanced due to the lower weight of the 4-cyl. I bought the 6s not because of the handling, which was excellent on both the i and s, I just liked the power of the V6...
Would a 6i with a manual trans be non-lethargic?
IMO, definitely! The automatic saps a lot more power than the manual, and I've always felt more connected to a car with manual-transmission, because it allows you more control in any situation, whether it's a curvy road or a snowy commute.
Would a 6 make a good first time car for m.t.?
Any car is a good candidate for learning to drive manual, as long as you have someone that'll teach you that's driven it for years. Driving a manual has unfortunately become a lost art, but once you've learned, chances are you won't go back to an auto. Unless my legs get cut off at the thighs, I'll always drive a manual, no matter how much stop-and-go driving I do...
Guess while we're on the subject, what do people here think makes a car, especially the 6, fun to drive, if it indeed is?
Again, it's all opinion. I personally love the 6 because the road feel is great. The steering is direct and responsive, not mushy or disconnected. The brakes are the best I've ever had in a 4-door sedan, VERY responsive and easy to modulate, despite the brake dust.
Again, it's all my own opinion. Test-drive what you can, and buy the car that makes YOU happy. Definitely learn how to drive a manual, and most of all, enjoy your purchase as much as possible. You pay a good amount of $$$ for a vehicle, so get your moneys worth! :shades:
sweet piece of machinery. Love the short throw,throttle
response,handling and the Telescoping wheel. Finally a
sport sedan that I can cruise in with my feet flat on the
floor and knees under the steering wheel...aaahhh! Reference point is our 626.
It depends on where you live in the NE. If you live in a relatively mild state, where it does snow, but not very heavily, and the roads are in decent shape all the time, the 17" OEMs will do. If you live in the lake-effect snow areas, where it snows for days (or weeks) at a time, and the roads aren't in the best shape, get winter tires.
My example: I live outside of Syracuse, NY, where we average over 10 FEET of snow per winter, and when snow sometimes fall at 3"-5" per hour, the highways and secondary streets are covered with snow and slush, sometimes hard-packed snow, sometimes patches with black ice hiding underneath. I went through ONE snowstorm with the 17" OEMs, and realized they weren't going to suffice for my commute and driving style.
I bought a set of 16" steel wheels and Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2 tires (205/60-16, same as OEM 16" tires on the 6). They are unstoppable in the snow, with great traction and control in slush, hard-packed ot deep snow. Wet traction is better than the OEM 17", and dry traction is actually on par with them as well. With them, my car keeps up with the SUVs in the snow, and it's actually fun to drive in the snow.
Just my $.02...
funny choice of words... :P
sport sedan that I can cruise in with my feet flat on the
floor and knees under the steering wheel...aaahhh!
Exactly how I felt the first time I drove one. The telescoping wheel and narrow center stack sure makes it nice not to be bumping your knees on everything.I did not even need the electric seats to get comfortable.
This winter I installed 4 205/60R16 Dunlop Winter Sport M3 tires (same as radocha has), and the car now behaves completely different. The ice/snow handling got a HUGE improvement, and I didn't sacrifice much dry handling with the Dunlops as they aren't too squishy like some of the cheaper snows. Now I don't need to be so careful with the car, and I can concentrate more on what's going on around me.
I'd recommend winter tires if you get much snow in your area. The tread type and the short sidewall on the OEM Michelins just doesn't seem to work well in winter driving conditions.
Are you referring to Consumer Reports? CR does not recommend the 6 cylinder but does find the 4 cylinder of the Mazda 6 is reliable. The reliability rating has been improving since 2003. The 2004 model year had Electrical, Integrity and Hardware issues identified by CR subscribers. The 2003 year fared poorly in those categories but also had Power equipment, Brakes and Fuel issues as well. Transmission was rated highly in all years.
I find it interesting that the four outshines the six cylinder. I assume both share many components. The four is also a close cousin to the Mazda 3 which has had a sterling record from the beginning. With this sharing between models one would think that the models would rate similarly in reliability.
But with that said, I like the M6 and not sorry I've purchased. I can see where consumer magazines raise concerns.
Mazda 4 yr warranty is nice and that helps reliability concerns.
Wow! I'll have to see if they have 17 inchers too. I will need to replace the Pilots on my V6 Mazda6 very soon, or at least before I turn it in at the end of the lease early next year, and I do not want to pay 190+ a tire for them (Tirerack's price). But I don't want to lose much performance either. Are the Pirelli's pretty comparable to the OEM Michelins on the V6?
My best advice? Check out Tirerack.com. Run a search on their website for your specific make and model, and they'll give you a bunch of choices for the 6. They can give you recommendations on tires based on how you drive, and the prices are great. There are PLENTY of excellent choices that are not only MUCH LESS than the $190 per tire for the OEMs, but will run circles around them in overall performance and customer satisfaction.
Speaking of which, I have a 6 with the 17" Pilots as well, and trust me, I'm NOT buying them again! AFAIC, the 17" tires should be more performance-oriented, and the Michelins are FAR from it. Decent dry handling, but miserable wet traction, and snow traction is non-existent, at all!
You can get the Pirellis for the 6, but the size you'll need is 225/45-17, since they're not available in our OEM size. Don't worry, they'll fit without problems, lots of Mazda 6 owners have bought and installed them on their cars... Still, check out Tirerack.com for a bunch of great choices in the OEM size (215/50-17) as well. If you've got any more questions, I check out the Mazda 6 boards here as well, so feel free to ask...
Will the non-OEM sized Pirellis be a problem when I turn the car in at the end of the lease next year? This is my first lease and I'm not familiar with how detailed the dealer gets in checking the car over when it's turned in.
As long as they're not bald, I would be VERY surprised if it is a problem. The 225/45 fits into the "2% rule", which means that the size is within 2% of the OEM tire diameter. I'm not familiar with leasing myself (I put on way too many miles per year), but I've seen used cars coming off lease with tires that weren't OEM sizes. Besides, they may even replace them before they re-sell the car anyway, but as stated before, if they're in good shape, they shouldn't give you a hard time.
Not sure. I was able to purchase my '04 6 in the summer of '04 using the college graduate discount (my wife recently received her Masters Degree), but I've since heard that they dropped the discount. I'm not really sure if they brought it back or not...
I did like the way the Mazda handled and decent speed, and seat comfort was OK too. I'm a little spoiled by the Maxima to be honest.
But there were 2 distinct things I didn't like. No extender for the sun visor when moved to the driver's side window. I've found this can be incredibly annoying when the sun finds it's way directly to the corner of your left eye. I don't know if anything can be done on the Mazda to mitigate this. Couple pieces of duct tape maybe -
The other problem could be even more annoying to the point of being aggravating and potentially dangerous. I did not like the glaring red dash lights. Everything lit up like a red Christmas tree. Too many lights and since I need glasses for reading I couldn't read them anyway. My Maxima has nice soft white lights and they are very unobtrusive. But even on long trips when I'm coming home from a 2,3, 4 or 6 hour drive I find my unobtrusive lights can still be a little bothersome to my eyes.
So the most important question I have is how do people find the dash lights to be after driving many hours at night. Do they increase in level of annoyance and distraction. I'm sure you can turn the brightness down but I would like to get people's opinions and experience with that.
The dealer offered me a great deal but is pushing me to buy by the end of this month - so that's only 2 days away. But he said he sell me the car for $24.7k. And I think that's a pretty good deal for a 6s Grand T wagon with msrp of 29.5
thx
Jeffer
I drive a few night trips once in a while, and in my opinion, the red dash lights are not annoying at all. In fact, this is my second car with the red lights (my first was my old Grand Am), and I've become so accustomed to the red that I can't stand the pale green glow on my wife's car anymore. I also drive an F150 every once in a while (a work vehicle), same thing, the green dash gets to me at night.
White isn't too bad, but it's annoying when they're bright. The only other color that's easy on my eyes at night is the cool blue VW dash.
Again, it's all a matter of personal taste, but from my experience, the red isn't distracting at all.
BTW, that's a very good price for a $29.5K wagon...
And over the life of the car won't cost that much extra since your other tires will be off the car so they'll last longer in terms of time but also hitting fewer pot holes can increase their life span as well.
My last snow tires were the Dunlaps and man, those things handled better than the Potenzas that came with the car, even on dry pavement.
p.s - I just test drove a Mazda6 Grand Touring wagon today and I'm almost ready to take the plunge.
tx
Jeffer
Gauge illumination dimming control
Thanks in advance!
Chris
Beneficial, yes. You don't have to put any money down at all and you don't have to haggle. Go to Ford Partner and enter your code (your work should provide this and you can't generate a pin for the dealer without it) to see S-Plan pricing. It's close to invoice so unless a dealer is willing to go lower than invoice, which is doubtful, you should use it.
Yes, it can be combined with other offers. i.e. rebates, lease specials, low APR, etc.
Money down is based on each individuals specific circumstances. Trade equity, or lack of. Credit. Income. Payment goals.
Just wanting to clarify so there is once again something my sales staff doesn't have to explain while being looked at with contempt, since someone read no money down for X/S-Plan on the internet.
ZOOM ZOOM
thanks for the info ...
The key word is "applicable", meaning if you don't qualify for a certain program... then you don't qualify.
Keep in mind that the Mazda 6 currently has a MAC(Mazda American Credit) Bonus Cash incentive, available with approved credit, which expires at the close of business Tuesday, 1/31. You must finance in order to receive this rebate.
If paying cash, just finance through Mazda, if eligible, then pay it off in a few months. We ask that you comply with a 120 day contract parameter so the amount of "Bonus Cash" doesn't charge back against our dealership.
ZOOM ZOOM