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Mazda6 Sedan



  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    There must have somehow been a shortage of decent used cars in her area. For a 4 year old, almost 5, car with over 50,000 miles, that was an extremely good price(for her I mean).
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I don't know - it was Salt Lake City - the Mazda is popular there, but they are lousy with them too. :blush:
  • srhnk401srhnk401 Posts: 3
    Here are some details on my 6:
    2006 6 s Sport
    Performance White Ext w/ Black Sport Cloth Interior
    5-Speed Manual Transmission
    Bose 6-Disc In-Dash w/ Bose Audio System
    V6 - 3.0
    31,000 Miles

    Both KBB and NADA (I realize that these sites are often inaccurate) list $14,300 trade-in and $15,500 Private Party. Compared to retailers, I have the vehicle priced $3-4k less than any lot. I've listed the car for sale twice in the past year and I've experienced the same issue both times.

    From what I've seen, new vehicles fitting the same criteria are priced around $24-$25,000. My price is now hovering around the dealer trade-in value, but I'm willing to take a little cut even at that price.

    What am I doing wrong?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    A new Mazda6 s sport value, the only V6 with manual, is about $18,000 at invoice less rebate. Not sure how that is equipped compared to yours, but even adding $2K to that would still put the new one at about $20,000 for an actual sales price. (From your description sounds like yours might be equivalent to s Touring. that would be around $20K at invoice, taking off $1000 for manual would put it at ~$19K)

    I only have ever bought cheap used cars, so I am not sure how folks that buy newer, higher priced, ones think...but I think perhaps I'd be looking to get at least a 25-30% discount from a comparable new one to buy a 2 year old car, which would be anywhere from $12-15K.

    I think the biggest problem is the manual transmission eliminates 90-95% of potential buyers. Next, with $3.70 per gallon gas, a lot of buyers are now looking for 4 cylinders.

    If you believe that trade in value, why not trade it in or sell to carmax?
  • srhnk401srhnk401 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input. I haven't had good experiences with CarMax. I've realized that CarMax is a corrupt company that wrongfully cheats desperate people. Since I'm not in a desperate situation, I'm willing to hold off to the cars full worth.

    Thanks again.
  • stewie2stewie2 Posts: 6
    Hey Guys,
    I am planning to buy the new full size sedan this march. The two vehicles that I have finally decided on in this category are Honda Accord 2009 and the new Mazda 6 2009. I have test driven both these cars and found them very similar. however I have a love for Mazda's interiors and exteriors. So I had planned to buy one soon.
    I have a couple of questions that still are bothering me.
    1. Honda Accord is said to have no scheduled Maintenance until 100k miles. (Couldnt find that on their website but I have read blogs where people have mentioned that)
    2. I have the new Mazda has transmission problems when its COLD, does anyone know about this?
    3. Overall, how has your experience been with the Mazda 6. Would you recommend buying it?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I happened to notice that still shows rebates available on the 2008 Mazda6. Is it really still possible to find the former version of the 6?
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    I happened to notice that still shows rebates available on the 2008 Mazda6. Is it really still possible to find the former version of the 6?

    With this economy? I'd say it's an almost-certainty that you'll still see '08s on the new-car lots. IIRC, the local dealer still has at least a half-dozen...
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    the local dealer still has at least a half-dozen...

    Interesting...according to dealer websites there are none at the 4 nearest dealerships to me.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,181
    I don't see any in the Chicago area either. They blew them out last fall. My dealership hasn't had any 08s since Nov of last year. They keep their inventory fairly lean but I haven't seen any on the big dealers either.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    1. Honda Accord is said to have no scheduled Maintenance until 100k miles. (Couldnt find that on their website but I have read blogs where people have mentioned that)

    On Honda's web site, it says "no schedule maintenance tune up's until 100,000 miles". Maintenance is needed on the Accord, just like every other car on the market.

    2. I have the new Mazda has transmission problems when its COLD, does anyone know about this?

    News to me, and we have put several of these 09's on the road. Here in CT we have had a pretty cold winter. BTW, it's the same tranny that is in the CX-9, which has had virtually no issues in the 2+ years it's been out.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    no schedule maintenance tune up's until 100,000 miles

    "tune up" today means change spark plugs. So all it means is you can leave the spark plugs in for 100K mi, if you wish. This is nothing new, various manufacturer's have been saying that for at least a decade. IIRC, my 1997 Windstar was in the 100K mi plug club. I changed them after 6 years at well under 100K mi, as I understand leaving them in too long can cause them to become welded to the the head.
  • I recently decided on the 09 6 over the Accord, TL and TSX for a number of reasons, but it really is much more fun to drive. It's amazing how many people say "What kid of car is that - it's beautiful!". I purchased an 08 CX9 in 07, and live in Colorado. I have never had any issues with the transmission, and we are below zero quite a bit. We had a Jeep Grand Cherokee for a few years, and when cold it would not even shift out of 1st, so I know what you are talking about.
    Good luck in your decision - honestly you cannot go wrong either way!
  • kubakuba Posts: 1
    i have a 2005 mazda6 4cyl with 130,000 klms or about 78,000 miles . the problem is my battery light has come on and my car shifted to 3rd gear and stays there unless i put it in park, then i shift it in drive and it goes right into 3rd with a clunk , anyone expierence this before thank you
  • karyakartakaryakarta Posts: 17
    edited July 2010

    I am not sure if this is the right forum, but I hope somebody has some knowledge about trade in prices. I am going to trade in my car, which is a 2003 white mazda 6i with 88,000 miles. The car's only two options are the automatic transmission and alloy wheels. The car has a clear title and I am the one and only owner. Mechanically, there is nothing wrong with the car and was never involved in any accident, but it has a bit of rust in the exhaust pipes.

    I went to three different dealers for trade-in comparisons, and the highest quote I got was $4,900, which is exactly what Kelly Blue Book quoted for "good condition trade in value". KBB quoted a trade in value of $5,300 for "excellent condition". From private and dealer listings nationwide, I have seen that comparable Mazda6i to mine are selling between $6,500 to high $7,000s. Selling the car privately is not an option for me as I don't wish to deal with the hassle.

    May I ask any of you ever manage to get trade in offers that are higher than KBB? Do you think $4,900 is a fair price or do you think I could do better? Thanks in advance for your inputs.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    KBB values usually seem high to me. I've never traded a car in (even though I have owned more than a dozen in my life), but when shopping for used cars it usually seemed like you could buy them from a dealer at pretty near the private party price.
  • elmaurelmaur Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    I live in Arizona- flat roads and very hot summers. At 8100 miles I noticed steering wheel shake when braking. Dealer said front rotors warped and replaced rotors under warranty. At 11400 miles same situation and dealer said brake pads should have been replaced first time. Dealer replaced front pads and rotors under warranty. Now at about 20k miles and out of brake warranty same steering wheel shake when braking and dealer says rotors warped and need to be resurfaced.
    I am gentle when braking. I do not ride the brakes or use 2 feet for braking and accelerating. I think this is a factory defect, design fault etc. What do you think?
  • michaelscaimichaelscai Posts: 75
    edited October 2010
    Hi, I drove my dad's new 2010 mazda6 i touring 4 cyl, the steering wheel feels kinda light more like my 2010 camry than 2010 honda accord I rented a few weeks ago, is that normal? supposely mazda6 should by more sporty handling more like accord?

    I drove a 2009 mazda6 i sport a while ago, and the steering wheel seem firmer. Is the iSport suspension/handling firmer than the i touring?

    Is it possible to make the handling firmer on the mazda6 i touring?
  • You say "light."
    I say "extremely responsive."

    The car goes where you point it, intuitively. Almost like it knows where you want it to go.

    I consider that more sporty than having to wrestle with your car's steering.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    edited October 2010
    I felt my 2007 Mazda6 had steering that was a bit light, Accord I test drove back in 2006 seemed even lighter and was too light for me while the Mazda was light but acceptable. I think the new version of Mazda6 is lighter than mine. After a while, I got used to the lighter feel and it did not bother me. I was coming from a Contour, which had a much heavier feel...though still far from requiring "wrestling".

    However, about a year ago I had mine in for a TSB to fix a clunk that could sometime be felt in the steering wheel. The fix was to use a heavier grease and the TSB indicated that they were supposed to warn me that the steering might feel different. After the fix the steering felt just a bit less light, which I thought was an improvement. So I would think one could have a heavier grease put in to change the feel a bit...not sure what the cost would be as mine was a warranty repair.

    I liked the comment about "responsive", as back in 2006 when I drove a Fusion and Milan, at a dealership that sold both I told the salesman that the steering seemed lighter on the Milan and he told me others had noticed a difference but they told him that the Milan steering was more responsive :) .
  • michaelscaimichaelscai Posts: 75
    edited October 2010
    the 2010 mazda6 feels lighter/looser than the generation 1 mazda6 to me. I bought and sold two 2008 mazda6 and they handles excellent.

    the 2010 mazda6 handling feels more like a camry than an accord, didn't buy the accord because the seats were too hard and ride was worse than the mazda6.

    i can definitely tell the handling is looser/lighter than 2008 mazda6. worse than the 2010 accord which is precise, responsive but doesn't feel light or loose

    I don't think you can just call it responsive when someone says it feels light or loose - i think they tuned it a bit too light on the newer mazda6s. My 2010 camry is loose, light and inprecise in handling - but my dealer calls it 'it's just really easy to drive'. lol
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I think the rotors are warped. Is a torque wrench used when tightening the lugs? Is the car washed when brakes are hot?

    You next thing to try is have the dealer do a complete front brake job (under warranty) and go from there.

    Tell them it's a safety issue!

    Good luck!
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    Yes and no.

    I've owned a '04 Mazda6, and now currently own a '10 Mazda6. I agree that the steering is "heavier" or "tighter" on the '04 than the '10, but I disagree with the '10 being looser/lighter than the current Accord, and it's nowhere near the Camry. In fact, I felt more connected to the 6 than I did the Accord, which IMO felt much bigger than anything else in it's class (mostly because it is), and the ride/handling didn't feel as precise or confidence-inspiring.

    As for the Camry, it's better compared to a late-model Buick, but that's about it.
  • recall-web-mazda6-mazda/1

    The recall of 2009 and 2010 Mazda6s is due to "a certain type of spider" that "may weave a web in the evaporative canister vent line and this may cause a restriction in the line," the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration says on its website. Another 13,000 of the cars sold in Puerto Rico, Canada and Mexico are also being recalled.
  • After reading other issues with Mazda6's... have they changed the 2010, 2011, or 2012 enough to avoid buying a bad car??? My 2007 Chrysler Pacifica just ate itself and I have 12 more payments... due to oil consumption problems that occurred between the 60-65K oil change... they know it's a lemon. But I feel like the fool because I bet the sales guy was internally laughing his [non-permissible content removed] off for buying one of his last couple of Pacifica's off the lot... laughing all the way to the bank while I sit here with a car with a bad engine.

    Looking outside the box now... at Mazda's, Kia's, Nissan's... but EVERY car seems to have problems whether you keep it up or not... Help!
  • ocramidajzjocramidajzj Posts: 91
    edited August 2011
    This myth that some makes are better than others is a myth, especially these days where manufacturing techniques are pretty consistent across manufacturers. What drives these myths is more about good marketing and people who only speak up when they do have issues. Mazda is also much smaller than the other Japanese makes so any issues they have are magnified statistically. I've owned about 8 Mazdas over the past 20 years and they've all been reliable and well built. They're not perfect (some rattles, small equipment failures like faulty radios etc) but they have never left me or my family stranded, even when squirrels ate through the distributor cap of my 95 protege it ran on 3 cylinders to get me home.

    BTW I have a 2010 Mazda 6 sGT and it's been solid as a rock and a blast to drive.
  • i have a 2010 mazda 6 i touring with sat. compatable radio what do i need to get sirius sat. radio
  • I've been driving a 2011 Mazda 6i automatic for about four months and have been really pleased with the gas mileage. My driving pattern is roughly 60/40 hwy/city and I'm averaging 29-30 mpg. I believe the EPA estimates are 22/31, so my 6 is clearly exceeding those estimates. If others are getting the same results, looks like EPA really missed the mark on this car.
  • If you are looking for a zero defect rate with any manufacturer in the world, you're going to have to wait until you go to heaven, and I wouldn't promise you a zero defect rate there. However, that's your best bet, I suppose.
  • I need to replace tires. The OEM's were terrible. Any suggestions for all weather tires that perform well in snow? I live in the snowbelt and can average 2' of snow overnight. They are 215/50/17.
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    edited October 2011
    If you don't wish to invest in a set of winter tires, but still deal with snow, I'd recommend the Continental ExtremeContact DWS. I've heard of other Mazda6 owners having nothing but praise for them. They're great performers in both the dry and wet, and offer excellent snow traction for a performance tire. They're also about $60 per tire LESS than the OEM POS Michelins.
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