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Comments
2006 6 s Sport
Performance White Ext w/ Black Sport Cloth Interior
5-Speed Manual Transmission
Bose 6-Disc In-Dash w/ Bose Audio System
V6 - 3.0
Alloys
31,000 Miles
Both KBB and NADA (I realize that these sites are often inaccurate) list $14,300 trade-in and $15,500 Private Party. Compared to retailers, I have the vehicle priced $3-4k less than any lot. I've listed the car for sale twice in the past year and I've experienced the same issue both times.
From what I've seen, new vehicles fitting the same criteria are priced around $24-$25,000. My price is now hovering around the dealer trade-in value, but I'm willing to take a little cut even at that price.
What am I doing wrong?
I only have ever bought cheap used cars, so I am not sure how folks that buy newer, higher priced, ones think...but I think perhaps I'd be looking to get at least a 25-30% discount from a comparable new one to buy a 2 year old car, which would be anywhere from $12-15K.
I think the biggest problem is the manual transmission eliminates 90-95% of potential buyers. Next, with $3.70 per gallon gas, a lot of buyers are now looking for 4 cylinders.
If you believe that trade in value, why not trade it in or sell to carmax?
Thanks again.
I am planning to buy the new full size sedan this march. The two vehicles that I have finally decided on in this category are Honda Accord 2009 and the new Mazda 6 2009. I have test driven both these cars and found them very similar. however I have a love for Mazda's interiors and exteriors. So I had planned to buy one soon.
I have a couple of questions that still are bothering me.
1. Honda Accord is said to have no scheduled Maintenance until 100k miles. (Couldnt find that on their website but I have read blogs where people have mentioned that)
2. I have the new Mazda has transmission problems when its COLD, does anyone know about this?
3. Overall, how has your experience been with the Mazda 6. Would you recommend buying it?
Thanks
With this economy? I'd say it's an almost-certainty that you'll still see '08s on the new-car lots. IIRC, the local dealer still has at least a half-dozen...
Interesting...according to dealer websites there are none at the 4 nearest dealerships to me.
On Honda's web site, it says "no schedule maintenance tune up's until 100,000 miles". Maintenance is needed on the Accord, just like every other car on the market.
2. I have the new Mazda has transmission problems when its COLD, does anyone know about this?
News to me, and we have put several of these 09's on the road. Here in CT we have had a pretty cold winter. BTW, it's the same tranny that is in the CX-9, which has had virtually no issues in the 2+ years it's been out.
"tune up" today means change spark plugs. So all it means is you can leave the spark plugs in for 100K mi, if you wish. This is nothing new, various manufacturer's have been saying that for at least a decade. IIRC, my 1997 Windstar was in the 100K mi plug club. I changed them after 6 years at well under 100K mi, as I understand leaving them in too long can cause them to become welded to the the head.
Good luck in your decision - honestly you cannot go wrong either way!
I am not sure if this is the right forum, but I hope somebody has some knowledge about trade in prices. I am going to trade in my car, which is a 2003 white mazda 6i with 88,000 miles. The car's only two options are the automatic transmission and alloy wheels. The car has a clear title and I am the one and only owner. Mechanically, there is nothing wrong with the car and was never involved in any accident, but it has a bit of rust in the exhaust pipes.
I went to three different dealers for trade-in comparisons, and the highest quote I got was $4,900, which is exactly what Kelly Blue Book quoted for "good condition trade in value". KBB quoted a trade in value of $5,300 for "excellent condition". From private and dealer listings nationwide, I have seen that comparable Mazda6i to mine are selling between $6,500 to high $7,000s. Selling the car privately is not an option for me as I don't wish to deal with the hassle.
May I ask any of you ever manage to get trade in offers that are higher than KBB? Do you think $4,900 is a fair price or do you think I could do better? Thanks in advance for your inputs.
I am gentle when braking. I do not ride the brakes or use 2 feet for braking and accelerating. I think this is a factory defect, design fault etc. What do you think?
I drove a 2009 mazda6 i sport a while ago, and the steering wheel seem firmer. Is the iSport suspension/handling firmer than the i touring?
Is it possible to make the handling firmer on the mazda6 i touring?
I say "extremely responsive."
The car goes where you point it, intuitively. Almost like it knows where you want it to go.
I consider that more sporty than having to wrestle with your car's steering.
However, about a year ago I had mine in for a TSB to fix a clunk that could sometime be felt in the steering wheel. The fix was to use a heavier grease and the TSB indicated that they were supposed to warn me that the steering might feel different. After the fix the steering felt just a bit less light, which I thought was an improvement. So I would think one could have a heavier grease put in to change the feel a bit...not sure what the cost would be as mine was a warranty repair.
I liked the comment about "responsive", as back in 2006 when I drove a Fusion and Milan, at a dealership that sold both I told the salesman that the steering seemed lighter on the Milan and he told me others had noticed a difference but they told him that the Milan steering was more responsive .
the 2010 mazda6 handling feels more like a camry than an accord, didn't buy the accord because the seats were too hard and ride was worse than the mazda6.
i can definitely tell the handling is looser/lighter than 2008 mazda6. worse than the 2010 accord which is precise, responsive but doesn't feel light or loose
I don't think you can just call it responsive when someone says it feels light or loose - i think they tuned it a bit too light on the newer mazda6s. My 2010 camry is loose, light and inprecise in handling - but my dealer calls it 'it's just really easy to drive'. lol
You next thing to try is have the dealer do a complete front brake job (under warranty) and go from there.
Tell them it's a safety issue!
Good luck!
I've owned a '04 Mazda6, and now currently own a '10 Mazda6. I agree that the steering is "heavier" or "tighter" on the '04 than the '10, but I disagree with the '10 being looser/lighter than the current Accord, and it's nowhere near the Camry. In fact, I felt more connected to the 6 than I did the Accord, which IMO felt much bigger than anything else in it's class (mostly because it is), and the ride/handling didn't feel as precise or confidence-inspiring.
As for the Camry, it's better compared to a late-model Buick, but that's about it.
The recall of 2009 and 2010 Mazda6s is due to "a certain type of spider" that "may weave a web in the evaporative canister vent line and this may cause a restriction in the line," the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration says on its website. Another 13,000 of the cars sold in Puerto Rico, Canada and Mexico are also being recalled.
Looking outside the box now... at Mazda's, Kia's, Nissan's... but EVERY car seems to have problems whether you keep it up or not... Help!
BTW I have a 2010 Mazda 6 sGT and it's been solid as a rock and a blast to drive.