I have the exact same ford model and having the exact same problem. We took it to the dealer who told us we needed to have the the throttle body cleaned, a new relay for the fuel pump and the pcv cleaned out. All for a hefty price of $625
I have a Firebird that I recently purchased. I drove it for 2 weeks. The car started idling rough like it was not getting fuel, now it will not start at all. About once a week I will go out there to see if it will start, and it would start for about 1 to 2 minutes then dies. I am not sure what to do about it. I just had the clutch replaced and a couple of belts on the engine. The gauges show normal across the board. I really need some advice on this.
i know its a bit late for this response, but my 97 altima has been doing that for a while too, i replaced the mass airflow sensor, and it seemed to fix it for about a month, now there is just a hesitation at idle, when in gear. it hanst died since, and it still wont give a code so i have no idea whae else is goin on.
I have a 2002 Ford Escape. Over the summer, whenever it would be sitting outside all day and I tried to start it, it would start then die, but once I got it going it was ok. Then it would take a couple of times to get it started, but again once I got going, it was ok. Eventually, I'd get it going, but then it would die on me whenever I would stop or release gas. As long as I kept my foot on gas it would be ok. It doesn't do it when it's been in my garage all night, or even if I was out for a couple of hours, it only seemed to happen after it had been outside for 10 hours while I was at work. And it didn't matter what temperature it was. Any idea where I should start looking for problem. It wasn't the battery. Thank you
Finally problem fixed. After getting no help from nissan, I took it to a local mechanic and he found a leak in the intake gasket creating a lean fuel mixture. Part was $4.50 but the labor was over $300. Which I gladly paid. Runs and idles great now.
got mine fixed too, it was a clogged up EGR valve tube and to get to it the manifold needed to be removed so same here, quite costly and in my case no charge for any parts, just cleaning the tube. Oh well, I am glad the idling problem is gone now.
I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima that report a knock sensor error code on bank 1. My mechanic says it should be replace and it could cost about $500 for parts and labor total. Knock sensor cost about $160 from Nissan. How hard is it to replace on my own? Do I need a mechanic or can I order the part and figure it out with a Nissan repair manual. Thanks!
I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima that report a knock sensor error code on bank 1. My mechanic says it should be replace and it could cost about $500 for parts and labor total. Knock sensor cost about $160 from Nissan. How hard is it to replace on my own? Do I need a mechanic or can I order the part and figure it out with a Nissan repair manual. Thanks!
I have a '90 Buick Regal GS 3.1 Ltr. the engine will die while driving, when I try to start it again sometimes it will turn over, other times it will not do anything. after waiting 5-10 minutes it will start and run for a minute or two then die again. Now I have read in forums that several people have had similar problems. All of which have found different things to be wrong. (fuel pump, fuel filter, distributer, injecters, computer, vacuum lines, etc.) I am looking to get car running and then sell. So that I am not stabbbing in the dark and fronting a lot of money, where should I start and what kinds of tests can I do to be sure if one of these items is good or bad?
I just had my intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets replaced on a 2000 Max. Intake manifold had to be removed to get to rear valve cover. I saw it done and I would not recommend removing intake manifold yourself if you are a novice. The cost for labor was $200. So, if you need your intake manifold removed to get to that sensor then I would look for a cheaper private shop.
Did you ever find out what was causing your Escape to stall and die? I bought my daughter a 2001 Escape and occasionally when we come to a stop the engine will die.
Sorry for the long post but I think the history might be important. It's a '99 Forester L with 176k miles on it. Here goes: A year ago the car started hesitating during acceleration and chk engine light came on, diag. said "misfire #3 cylinder". We replaced the plugs and wires, plug tips were black and engine ran perfect. This happened 2 more times in the span of a year and each time we replaced the plugs and wires and then it ran fine. The 3rd time however a few weeks after we replaced the plugs and wires the chk engine light remained on and I noticed one week that I had suddenly lost 100 miles per tank in mileage. Yes, I'm an anal engineer who calculates each tank . So I took it to the dealer and the computer read "bad air sensor and cat. converter not running at peak" or something like that:). I bought the sensor from the dealer and replaced it at home but forgot to disconnect the battery to reset the computer. The car immediately died after starting with the new sensor. We put the old sensor in and it ran fine. The next day we disconnected the battery, replaced the sensor and again it died, it would accelerate ok but as soon as you let it idle it died. So maybe a bad air sensor? We put the old one back in and this time it ran a bit rough while idling. So ordered another new sensor, disconnected the battery, replaced it and the car did the same thing. We put the old sensor back in and the car would idle for a minute then die, accelerating was fine till you let your foot off the gas. We gave up and brought it to a mechanic and he found a clogged cat. converter, it was glowing red right near the oxygen sensor. He cleared out the clog, ran it and it didn't immediately die but would die after 5-10 minutes of idling. He spent a week running it off and on to try and get a code and nothing came up. He replaced the oxygen sensor and still nothing came up. His thought is that the computer might need to be replaced? Any thoughts? I'm also trying to sell the car so really want to keep the repair cost down but would obviously don't want to sell a :lemon: !!
whoa! back up! How do you "clean out the clog" in a catalytic converter? That's a trick I'd like to see. Sounds like the folks working on the car are treating symptoms not the problem. The computer codes don't tell you which component is wrong ( a common misconception), they only tell you the area/circuit being affected by the malfunction.
Well here in Maine the mechanics have some tricks up their sleeves:)!! Actually a more accurate description is I think that there was a clog in the exhaust which he reamed out, I know not quite "kosher", but again we're in Maine. I'm waiting to hear the results of the compression test that he did on Friday, his latest thought is that the timing may be off. I've never changed the timing belt, whoops , so I can only hope the problem is as simple as that. The strange thing is that it's not giving any codes at all, that's why he was thinking it might be the computer. Someone else suggested that the computer could be reprogammed? I just hope we find something else first.
yeah they have "tricks" up their sleeves all right but not the kind you really want to see.
I don't wish to alarm you but from what you are telling me, your mechanic makes no sense...or you might have left out a few things? Exhaust systems don't "clog" (EGR valves do, however, so maybe that was it?) and timing belts can't really be "off"---your car would barely run, and then only enough to let the valves smash into the pistons.
I dunno...from what you've said I don't have faith in this guy...
My local Nissan dealer offers a pressurized fuel injector cleaning service for a special price of $60. Sounds good for my 76K Maxima but can anyone suggest what this procedure involves and does it do any good or will it cause any leaks instead? Thanks
yes, fuel economy is normal and I use brand name 93 Octane but running fine is a relative term. I feel that I could get more response from the gas pedal on a Maxima. Can you elaborate on what harm pressurized injector cleaning can do? It's like you don't need to change the fuel filter until you get simptoms but changing it will improve performance, wouldn't this procedure be similar?
(I have also posted this message in Electric Gremlins)
I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My car's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.
My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:
- Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit? - Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem? - Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission? - How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?
I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.
The car just keeps stopping for no apparent reason. It starts on the key immediately afterwards. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or warm. Chrysler charge £93 per hour and so far (after 3 hours) they can't tell me what the problem is. Can anyone help please? I think the same car is called a Plymouth Voyager or Dodge Caravan in the US.
hello car ppl , i have bought an 8th hand car for little cash since i'm backpacking but have spent 3 weeks trying to fix a problem that started off looking like an easy 1 but now it has me baffled and many mechanics i have spoken to . here goes to sum it up : after the car runs for a while / runs for a while , is off for an hour and then runs again the engine stops when coming to a stop + low gears / going up a hill . the engine will stop and won't start again until i bleed an injector. when stops uphill , even after bleeding an injector it will stop again after a couple of meters. leaving the car when it doesnt start and coming the next day it will start again as if it's self bled itself.
things i have done : first off checked the fuel injector silenoid - replaced that couple of times and have removed 1 time the plunger and spring from it (stalling it to stop it) but didn't help since the engine still stops . - that elimantes electrical fault.
have replaced fuel filter / bypassed fuel filter still stops .
have checked fuel tank to c if anything is blocking the tank - all clear .
have left fuel tank lid open to make sure there is no vaccum problem- still stops . have put in new fuel pipes and checked with clear tubes to c if air is coming out - no problem there .
there is no leaks anywhere .
have connected a different fuel tank directly to the injector pump (by that elimanting the fuel tank + pipings along the way and fuel filter) - still a no go.
have added an electric fuel pump - still a no go .
the last thing i havent dont is change the actual fuel injector pump ( which includes inside it the fuel pump) .
but b4 i do that ( since it costs alot of money ) is there anything else i should check ? i have no idea where the problem is - it's as if car parts gets heated after a drive and something expands and by that sucks in air and makes a air blockage (fixed by bleeding) and then over night the air is bled out somehow or after a long run the fuel injector just doesnt do it's job . !
plz help me since i've nearlyy taken a baseball bat to this car ! any1 else had this problem ? thanks in advance Smeghead
Good news ! The timing belt had slipped a tooth and I forgot what it's called but the engine is the type that doesn't ruin the valves if the timing belt, interference something or other? So when the mechanic adjusted the belt the idling was almost perfect. It still surges up and down but it doesn't die. He's ordering a new timing belt and we'll hope that it takes care of the surging.
Glad to hear your car is running better but I'm sorry I still don't believe the "slipped tooth" diagnosis at all. Your engine would not run if this were the case. Belts do go slack and it's good to correct them but I don't think this was your problem.
My 1989 Grand Prix (3.1 V6) has developed an intermittent problem with stalling. The stalling only occurs when the engine is at operating temperature (never at start up or cold operation) and at the same time, only “seems” to happen when it is about to rain or has been raining so it only happens occasionally. Once the stalling begins, I need to step on the gas pedal upon cranking the engine to get it to start and when diving, I must kick the transmission into neutral and rev the engine when coming to a stop or the engine just dies. It seems to die at about 700-800 rpms. No check engine lights are on. Twice in the past 6 months the check engine light has come on during operation, but when I tried to check the code, nothing was recorded. I don’t think that those two occasions were related to the stalling problem as the vehicle started right up and ran normally after I had made a quick stop at the store and, the check engine light was no longer lit. On a couple of occasions when the vehicle was stalling badly the previous day, I would try to start the car the next morning. The car would only turn over, but not start. If I turned the key off and waited a few seconds and tried to start it again, it would start right up. Maybe the Electronic Control Module (computer) needed to be cleared? Is the ECM faulty since it does not seem to be recording the codes? Any idea what could be causing the stalling? Could it be a PCV that is occasionally sticking, since the PCV is not connected to the ECM? I haven’t replaced the PCV in quite a while as I believe it is located back by the firewall and down under a bit, so it is a little difficult to get to. I would really appreciate any advice that anyone can give. Thanks in advance to the experts here.
Good Morning I have an 99 infiniti Q45t and lately have been noticing a problem when the car is idled. It seems there is some loss of power sort of a feeling like the car is running out of gas. I have done a fuel cleaning, but the problem persists. Has any one experience this, if so, can you let me know what you did to resolve the situation. Thanks.
I have a 2001 venture that has 200K on it now. Since Dec 24, it has been intermittantly jerking and stalling. It has been to three different garages 6 times in the past three weeks. First we thought it was water in the gas and added gas line antifreeze, then replaced fuel filter. Next - replaced the fuel sending unit (gas gauge not working so this fixed that problem but not the stalling/chugging). Replaced the ignition module and coil pack last week. Yesterday, we drove 6 hours and then it started again. We've now left it part way across the US on our holidays and have a rental van. It doesn't make any sense - it can do it cold, or hot, going up hill or flat roads. No codes showing up - head gasket already done, new plugs, wires. ANY advice you can give would be great. BTW - it doesn't usually act up for the mechanics! We have to call the mechanic on Tuesday to see what he has found - but it would be great to be able to give him some clues! Thanks.
thanks in advance. I just bought a 95 dodge 3.9L van 148k it dies almost every time I stop I usually have to hold the brake and rev it a little just to keep er going. it runs great otherwise. I would really appreciate any help. If it could be a number of things please list a few. It is currently doubling as my house so I really need it to idle for heat/ac/electricity thats again.
I have the same car and the same problem. 95k miles. Mine has been doing this for 9 months. It has been at the Infiniti Dealer for three days and the Nissan dealer for two days.Neither dealer could find anything wrong. I was told to just drive it till something broke and have it towed back in to the dealership. Mine will jump around so bad that it acts like the motor mount is broke but it has no pattern to when or why it happens. I also noticed that if I shift it into park when it happens, it will immediately stop. This did not help the dealer either.If they had told me that they would have this kind of attitude when I paid over 50K for this thing, I would have bought a different car. Let me know if you find out any better option. Thanks!
:confuse: I did a tune up on this vehicle ,plugs with attached Distrubter cap and wires ,oil and filter,before the tune up it ran but rough,found the cap arcing one night ,since the change It won't idle ,starts right up but rev's down to nothing,can someone help,my buick tranni just blew and if I don't get this running its rent a wreck $$$$$$$$,I can't locate a fuel filter or even a line ,carburator ,forget it ,I guess it dosen't have one ,,HELP!!!!!! Thanks Jimmy
You have an interesting problem there and I think I have the same thing. I have the impression the fuel gauge isn't working properly any more. Does this stopping happen close to when the fuel tank is empty? I now watch the mileage and fill up according to the number of kilometers I've driven and that seems to be keeping the problem away.
have a private mechanic (NOT A DEALER) remove the intake manifold and inspect/clean the following: manifold gaskets, throttle body, IACV, EGR Valve Tube, hoses for air leaks. The job should be $300 but you will resolve your problem this way.
Had 3 coils replaced and 4 spark plugs, but the car still hesitates from a stop. No light has come on so Nissan dealer will not swap out the 4th coil. All the work was done under warranty, but with 10 weeks to go until warranty ends, they are playing hard ball after the service writer said he'd take care of me. He actually told me to run 2 tanks of mid grade gas to fix the hesitation. My personal mechanic told me that's ludicris and he says push harder for the warranty fix. Are these new coils expensive to replace? TIA folks!
I too have this problem with my 99 Q45t 67K miles.
Been to the dealer twice, will not throw any error codes, but sputters at idle as if there is fuel cut-off.
Dumped $690 into it last week to replace spark plugs and do a positive pressure injector clean. Helped, but still acts up after about 20 seconds at idle.
No power loss above idle, runs smooth as silk on the road. Very frustrating!
The code for primary ignition signal, the P1320 may be in the pending mode and won't display the SES light until the computer detects this code enough times. Have your mechanic check the error codes even if you don't have the SES light. If there is one stored then that's good reason to get the warranty fix. The coils are $75 from dealer, $65 from online parts store and around $50 on eBay.
my car was running fine we stopped for gas as soon as i started the car the rpm rev ed up on its own, it did it 3 times just sitting. on the way home as i was driving the car started doing it again :sick: any one have a clue if it could just be bad gas and the supercharged just dont like it? if any one can help that would be so great
This came on suddenly about a month ago. My 97 Villager was at operating temperature when I stopped in to pay a bill when I got back in the car and tried to drive it sputtered and coughed but didn't die. I immediately went to an auto parts store to maybe have a tech check it out (no check engine light) and he suggested changing the air filter which I did. The car ran a little better at least good enough to get home. I thought that maybe it had cleared up the problem because the next time I drove it was fine. The air filter was really dirty too. But last week after driving for about 60 miles when I stopped to get fuel it did it again. It seemed to work itself out but the check engine light came on. Then a few days later it went out after running smoothly around town. I thought then that it might be the catalytic converter so I took it to a muffler shop and explained the problem to them...they said no..when a catalytic converter goes out it doesn't matter what the temperature of the car is...they said it was a fuel problem. I changed the oil and put a gas treatment in the fuel tank..no result. When the engine is hot it runs very rough..if I continue to drive it runs and get progressively worse til it just dies and it won't start. If I let it cool down completely it is fine ... til it gets hot again. It is fine for short trips and for long trips if I don't stop. I have driven it as afar as 120 miles with no problems ..til I stopped. Then runs rough and sometimes it works itself out sometimes not. Also, it doesn't trigger the check engine light everytime and the engine temperature indicator on the dash never shows it as running hot. My funds are incredibly limited and I can't afford a mechanics runaround..does anyone have any ideas here?
go to Autozone and have them scan your computer for any error codes, it's free under their policy. If check engine light came on at least once then there may be stored error codes. Then you have to look up these codes online and see what the problem was. Usually the code will accurately determine the defetive component.
I have a 1992 buick lesabre limited and it has lately been acting up. when you press on the accelerator it surges and makes it hard to get up a hill. It also stalls when you are idling and not moving for example waiting at a traffic light. The service engine soon light is almost always on and I haven't been driving it because it isn't safe or dependable on the road. It usually starts acting up when it is hot. If you have any info on how I can fix it please tell me. Thanks :confuse:
get that service engine soon light checked for any stored error codes. Go to your local Autozone, they have a policy to provide a free computer scan and tell you the stored codes then based on the code you would know how to approach the problem. 1996 and newer vehicles are all equipped with the same interface to hook up a handheld scanner, I don't know about 1992 buick but try Autozone first.
Except for the fact that it leaks oil like a sieve, my '94 Outback has been great. Then tonight the air conditioner went on the fritz, the fan working but the cool air cutting in and out. Later, the car stalled as I was coming to a stop, had a hard time restarting, and then stalled again as I was trying to get home. The only way I could keep it from dying at a light was to slip it into neutral, brake with my left and maintain engine rpms with my right on the accelerator. My wife thought the headlamps seemed dimmer than normal, but the battery seemed to crank up the starter all right, though restarting was difficult. Isn't stalling either a fuel or fire issue? And if the battery was able to crank the starter, could it be the fuel injectors?
If you haven't yet figured your problem out, don't rule out the catalytic convertor just because someone said it was ok. We had the same problem and spent quite a bit to try and figure it out. I finally second guessed the muffler shop and hallowed out the catalytic convertor. Problem solved. It made her run like new except a little more gutteral but definitely had it's power back. You may also be able to have the intake side cut and the screen cleared (that's where the clog would be) and then welded back shut. A good muffler guy aught to be able to do this pretty cheap. Mine, I just jammed the snought out of it with a long screwdriver and blew it out till it was perfectly clean. We don't have emission testing here and I wasn,t about to pay 250. + for a replacement. AGood luck. Adam
I have a 97 Venture with 144K miles on it. I have recently replaced:
serpentine belt tension pulley harmonic balancer water pump MAF sensor Throttle positioning sensor ECM (a year ago)
The serpentine belt kept coming off, finally narrowed that problem down to the harmonic balancer wobbling, which threw out the tension pulley. Also replaced the water pump, in case this was also a problem. After doing that, I found some water leaks, and tore the engine down to the intake manifold, found a few bad hoses and connectors. Then after putting everything back together, the van is now stalling when idling (sometimes) or coming to a stop (sometimes). It doesn't matter if the engine is warm or cold. I've gone back through and checked all the vacuum hoses. Everything looks okay.
The "Check engine light" was on , the codes came up as P0102 and P1441. P0102 was the Mass Air Flow sensor, so I put on one of those. Then reset the codes, drove it around, stalling again, check light comes, check the codes, same as before. Faulty MAF?
Go back to auto parts, get another one. Same routine. Still stalls. My buddy at the auto parts gives me a new MAP sensor to try and see if this is also a propblem. It's not. So I go back home, and fiddle around with all the connections, look at the wiring harness and can't find anything wrong. Some research on the internet and the Chilton's manual suggested a new Throttle Positioning sensor. So this morning I put on one of those.
My wife takes it for a test drive, after letting it idle for about twenty minutes in the drivewayy. Seems to run fine. We stopped and started with no trouble and go back home. Then later this evening, she takes it out and guess what? IT STALLS!!!!!!!
Does anybody have any idea what else is wrong here? What else should I look at, how can I test for other problems? I read something about the brake booster. Anybody know anything about a faulty brake booster causing a stalling problem? I've already thrown several hundred dollars at this and really don't want to waste another 200-300 dollars on somemthing that may not even be the problem.
Can anyone help me? I have a 1998 Chevy Camaro, V6 3.8 engine, for the past several months is has just been shutting off at will, does not matter whether you are driving or sitting still, I have replaced the ignition control module, the EGR valve has been replaced and this is really driving me crazy, sometimes when it shuts off you can turn it over and it will crank right away, other times you have to sit a minute then turn it over, I have also replaced fuel filters twice, any suggestions?
Hello I have a 92 VW Cabriolet when I drive the car for about 20 min it starts to choke, won't excelerate and black smoke comes out the tailpipe and dies. I have to pull over and let it cool for 10 min or pull the oil/air seperater off the crankcase so it can breath. Other than that it runs fine. Can you help me Thanks P
Comments
Thanks
but the labor was over $300. Which I gladly paid. Runs and idles great now.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1- f/4f/b5/0900823d801f4fb5.jsp
I don't wish to alarm you but from what you are telling me, your mechanic makes no sense...or you might have left out a few things? Exhaust systems don't "clog" (EGR valves do, however, so maybe that was it?) and timing belts can't really be "off"---your car would barely run, and then only enough to let the valves smash into the pistons.
I dunno...from what you've said I don't have faith in this guy...
Thanks
I'm a frequent poster on Edmunds, but have never had one as crazy as this. My car's check engine light came on a few days ago. The car ran well enough with it on for a few days. The light even went off briefly. However, this morning, the light had returned, and the car refused to shift out of first gear. Additionally, the input to the pedal did not directly correlate with the motor's reaction. Strangest was my fuel gauge, which now randomly meanders between 1/2 tank and empty and settles for awhile before wandering again (I have a little bit less than a half tank remaining). I took it to a local auto parts store where they ran the trouble codes. TPS was listed as one of the codes, and so I replaced it. The car now idles well enough, but still refuses to shift out of first, and the TPS trouble code refuses to be erased when clearing codes with the OBD II. The clearing of the codes appears to have settled my idle, and replacing the TPS has made my pedal input better correlate with the motor's reaction. Additionally, the fuel gauge problem appears to have righted itself, but the car still won't shift out of first.
My friend suspects the problem lies in my Electronic Control Module, but he admits he doesn't know GMs all that well. I have the following questions:
- Does anyone else think this is the likely culprit?
- Would a repair shop be able to use their Snap-On Diagnostics to better pinpoint the problem?
- Is there any sort of traceable relay that might be fouled between the computer and the transmission?
- How likely is it that the problem resides in the transmission (I had it flushed a little more than a year ago)?
I appreciate any thoughts on what's ailing my car. Thanks.
i have bought an 8th hand car for little cash since i'm backpacking but have spent 3 weeks trying to fix a problem that started off looking like an easy 1 but now it has me baffled and many mechanics i have spoken to .
here goes to sum it up :
after the car runs for a while / runs for a while , is off for an hour and then runs again the engine stops when coming to a stop + low gears / going up a hill . the engine will stop and won't start again until i bleed an injector. when stops uphill , even after bleeding an injector it will stop again after a couple of meters.
leaving the car when it doesnt start and coming the next day it will start again as if it's self bled itself.
things i have done :
first off checked the fuel injector silenoid - replaced that couple of times and have removed 1 time the plunger and spring from it (stalling it to stop it) but didn't help since the engine still stops . - that elimantes electrical fault.
have replaced fuel filter / bypassed fuel filter still stops .
have checked fuel tank to c if anything is blocking the tank - all clear .
have left fuel tank lid open to make sure there is no vaccum problem- still stops .
have put in new fuel pipes and checked with clear tubes to c if air is coming out - no problem there .
there is no leaks anywhere .
have connected a different fuel tank directly to the injector pump (by that elimanting the fuel tank + pipings along the way and fuel filter) - still a no go.
have added an electric fuel pump - still a no go .
the last thing i havent dont is change the actual fuel injector pump ( which includes inside it the fuel pump) .
but b4 i do that ( since it costs alot of money ) is there anything else i should check ? i have no idea where the problem is - it's as if car parts gets heated after a drive and something expands and by that sucks in air and makes a air blockage (fixed by bleeding) and then over night the air is bled out somehow or after a long run the fuel injector just doesnt do it's job . !
plz help me since i've nearlyy taken a baseball bat to this car !
any1 else had this problem ?
thanks in advance
Smeghead
I have an 99 infiniti Q45t and lately have been noticing a problem when the car is idled. It seems there is some loss of power sort of a feeling like the car is running out of gas. I have done a fuel cleaning, but the problem persists. Has any one experience this, if so, can you let me know what you did to resolve the situation. Thanks.
thats again.
Thanks!
You have an interesting problem there and I think I have the same thing. I have the impression the fuel gauge isn't working properly any more. Does this stopping happen close to when the fuel tank is empty? I now watch the mileage and fill up according to the number of kilometers I've driven and that seems to be keeping the problem away.
Thanks
Rick Shousha
Montreal
Are these new coils expensive to replace?
TIA folks!
The Sandman :confuse:
Been to the dealer twice, will not throw any error codes, but sputters at idle as if there is fuel cut-off.
Dumped $690 into it last week to replace spark plugs and do a positive pressure injector clean. Helped, but still acts up after about 20 seconds at idle.
No power loss above idle, runs smooth as silk on the road. Very frustrating!
I thought then that it might be the catalytic converter so I took it to a muffler shop and explained the problem to them...they said no..when a catalytic converter goes out it doesn't matter what the temperature of the car is...they said it was a fuel problem.
I changed the oil and put a gas treatment in the fuel tank..no result.
When the engine is hot it runs very rough..if I continue to drive it runs and get progressively worse til it just dies and it won't start. If I let it cool down completely it is fine ... til it gets hot again.
It is fine for short trips and for long trips if I don't stop. I have driven it as afar as 120 miles with no problems ..til I stopped. Then runs rough and sometimes it works itself out sometimes not. Also, it doesn't trigger the check engine light everytime and the engine temperature indicator on the dash never shows it as running hot.
My funds are incredibly limited and I can't afford a mechanics runaround..does anyone have any ideas here?
Thanks :confuse:
serpentine belt
tension pulley
harmonic balancer
water pump
MAF sensor
Throttle positioning sensor
ECM (a year ago)
The serpentine belt kept coming off, finally narrowed that problem down to the harmonic balancer wobbling, which threw out the tension pulley. Also replaced the water pump, in case this was also a problem. After doing that, I found some water leaks, and tore the engine down to the intake manifold, found a few bad hoses and connectors. Then after putting everything back together, the van is now stalling when idling (sometimes) or coming to a stop (sometimes). It doesn't matter if the engine is warm or cold. I've gone back through and checked all the vacuum hoses. Everything looks okay.
The "Check engine light" was on , the codes came up as P0102 and P1441. P0102 was the Mass Air Flow sensor, so I put on one of those. Then reset the codes, drove it around, stalling again, check light comes, check the codes, same as before. Faulty MAF?
Go back to auto parts, get another one. Same routine. Still stalls. My buddy at the auto parts gives me a new MAP sensor to try and see if this is also a propblem. It's not. So I go back home, and fiddle around with all the connections, look at the wiring harness and can't find anything wrong. Some research on the internet and the Chilton's manual suggested a new Throttle Positioning sensor. So this morning I put on one of those.
My wife takes it for a test drive, after letting it idle for about twenty minutes in the drivewayy. Seems to run fine. We stopped and started with no trouble and go back home. Then later this evening, she takes it out and guess what? IT STALLS!!!!!!!
Does anybody have any idea what else is wrong here? What else should I look at, how can I test for other problems? I read something about the brake booster. Anybody know anything about a faulty brake booster causing a stalling problem? I've already thrown several hundred dollars at this and really don't want to waste another 200-300 dollars on somemthing that may not even be the problem.
Thanks in advance and sorry so long!
John
I have a 92 VW Cabriolet when I drive the car for about 20 min it starts to choke, won't excelerate and black smoke comes out the tailpipe and dies. I have to pull over and let it cool for 10 min or pull the oil/air seperater off the crankcase so it can breath. Other than that it runs fine. Can you help me
Thanks
P