Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles

alan22

I just fixed this problem on my 2000 Altima yesterday.

Mine was surging and bucking when trying to keep a steady speed.

I took it to a local parts store where they scanned it for free. The scan indicated it was the EGR valve and it was running rich.

I cleaned the valve and verified that it was operating correctly. This did not solve the problem.

So, I did a little thinking about it over night. Running rich means one of two things, either the fuel delivery system or the air delivery system wasn't working correctly.

I saw the a note about the MAS or MAF and decided to check there, but all of the test voltages were in correct.

I then removed the cover for the air cleaner to check the filter. Wow! a mouse or chipmunk had climbed up into the air cleaner box and built a nest, it then proceded to eat a hole in the air filter. Leaves and debris were now blocking the air intake screen at the MAF restricting air flow to the engine causing it to run rich. I vaccumed the debris from the screen and the filter compartment and replaced the filter.

Everything now runs fine! I placed a 1/4 inch mesh screen over the opening of the air intake tube so this won't happen again.

Unfortunately the OBDII did not report a code for mouse nest in filter box!

alan22

I don't think it's the same problem, unless it is really far gone, but I don't think that is the issue in this case.

beknal

I have Mazda 626, recently changed the oxygen sensors (both), but still engine rattles when I switch on A/C while driving and sometimes car stops.

Please let me know what could be the problem, and what is the solution.
This car has run 84K miles.

Thanks

cookiemonster

Hello!
I was wondering if you had the part number for that distributor oil seal. I am having the same problem with my 94 Altima, and found oil in the distributor. Thanks! :confuse:

doctoss

Did you find a fix?

greggthomas

I'd bet anything it's the ignition coil. I had similar problems that went undiagnosed, finally I made the last resort cheap fix ($50) and lo and behold it worked.

trisho

Hi,
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with your Villager? I have a 1996 Mercury Mystique that does exactly the same thing and now it's so bad that it stalls at take off. Please help! Thank you!

bigbutr

Like the message above about the Jeep Cherokee, I have a 96 Chevy S-10 with the 4.3 V6 which, on occasion, will die out while I'm out on my postal route. It just started doing it, and it doesn't occur until the latter part of the day, usually about the 3rd or 4th hour out. After it dies out, it'll fire right back up. Some days it doesn't do it at all. :confuse:
I've run some fuel injector cleaner and replaced the fuel filter, but it still does it. Would my problem be similar to the Cherokee's, or something different. I've read where both electrical and fuel delievery were suspect on that year model, but I'm hoping it's nothing serious. It was in good condition when I bought it, with only 64,000 miles on it. It has a little over 72000 right now.
Thanks for any input.
Steve, Dothan, Alabama

gkk

94 Nissan Altima hesitates when it is starting. Then it sputters or backfires. It takes off really slow and when it finally does start moving it will sputter and hesitate. When I slow down it cuts off but will start up and do the same thing. I have replaced the fuel filter, taken it to a tune up where I was told I need an air sensor. But some people have told me to check the ignition coil or the timing.

Any suggestions?

scorbett

hi i was wondering if anyone could steer me in the right direction in trying to figure out what is wrong with my 1992 4wd ford explorer... for the past few days when i turn the car on it was start up fine then the check engine light will come on (while still idling) and shortly after the car will stall...when it does stall it starts up just as easily right after and continue on this way...it only seems to be stalling while idling and everything else seems fine though the check engine light will blink on and off a few times any advise would be greatly appreciated!

pnfgolf

I just bought an 02 9-5, 2.3 l turbo. Car idles rough. Any idea what it could be? Throtle body? thanks

tfon

I have an '99 accord lx automatic and when I press on the brakes it doesn't let me put the car in reverse so I have to sit there and just keep pushing on the brakes repeatedly before I can finally get into reverse. Any ideas what this could be and if it's an easy fix?

tboneid10t

1998 Dodge Gr Caravan Sport - 115K - 3.3

Starts then immediately stalls - dash display is BLANK, but Windows, Locks, Radio, Fan, Warning Lights ALL work.

It's been happening more often. Used to happen every few months.

Sometimes if it sits for 20 mins it will start as if nothing happened.

Last week it would not start for over 2 hours, but started the next day.

Had the key-tumbler & ignition switch replace based on suggestion from repair center, but it happened last night AGAIN!!!!

Wife is on me to get it fixed, I'm not a mechanic and am looking for ideas.

Please help!!!

richsdi

I have a carborated 1989 Accord that after it is warmed up, the throttle jumps to 2500 RPM's and stays there. Any suggestions?

jfrano

I own a 1990 Prelude 2.05Si. That runs fine, excet for the following. This has happened on rare occasions(1 in 100 starts) for the last 2 years. Now its happening almost every start up. WHen I start the car, the car starts and revs normally then IMMEDIALEY stalls. I might have to turn the car over 4 or 5 times and eventually it catches(continues to run). When it stalls, there is no unusuall noise or anything, the tack just goes to 0 rpm!

Any ideas?

Thanks

alcan

High idle speed is usually caused by a vacuum leak. Check all the vacuum hoses for cracks, disconnected, or other damage.

feemen

Hi HuskerFan,

Did you solve the problem with your daughters 94 Altima? I bought one for my daughter and just ran into the same problem. After changing the fuel pump $$$ and the problem persisted, I came here to look for answers.

You're at this point the best chance I have to figure this out.
Hope you can help,
FeeMen

tstewart

1999 Merc Villager idles fine in Park or Neutral, but in Drive while at stop sign or traffic light idles very rough. Changed fuel filter and filled fuel tank with premium gas and Seafoam fuel injector cleaner with no improvement. What could be causing this?

Thanks for the help.

woodi

I have a 91 Firebird that will start and run for 3 seconds. After it quits, it will restart and run for another 3 seconds. I checked the fuel pressure and have 40 lbs at the fuel rail. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, computer (twice), alternator, coil, wires and plugs, fuel rail, TPS, and had the Map and control module in the distributor checked out. If you spray starting fluid in the intake the car will run great till the starting fluid is used up. I have also hot-wired the fuel pump to run continuously and it does not help. Its almost like the computer is shutting down the injectors. Any ideas?

eburk

I have a 1988 740 GLE Turbo with 190,000 miles. It has 4 speed manual with overdrive. It starts fairly easily and accelerates normally at low rpms, but power drops sharply if I try to wind out the gears past 2500 rpms.

Second issue: Once the car reaches 55 mph, it typically maintains highway speed without difficulty. However, yesterday I drove it at 65 mph for 45 minutes, and it suddenly lost all power but didn't stall. I had to pull off the interstate and restart the engine.

Perhaps I have more than one problem. I recently had the throttle body cleaned, PCV serviced, injectors cleaned. What else should I check?

dculbreth

I have a 91 Dodge Ramcharger 318 with a throttle body injection system. On about four occasions while stopped at a lite when I went to accelerate noting happens. The engine was still running but it would not respond to the throttle movement for about 3 or 4 seconds. After that it took off like normal. Once it shut off for a second while I was driving on the highway, but it restarted it's self. Today it did die at the stop light when I went to go, but I restarted it and it ran fine. Could the throttle position sensor have anything to do with my problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

ciro4

I have a 1990 Plymouth Grand voyager, 3.3 engine w/auto trans. It has the same problem as your vechical. It will die after 20 min. of running than it will start up again. I get a check gauges light at instrument panel. I traced the check gauges light to a temp. probe next to the oil filter. I disconnected the wire to the temp. probe. The light no longer turns on but it still die. Have you found a solution to this problem?

dculbreth

A couple of years ago my truck was running really rich and would stall out sometimes. I took it to a mechanic who is a friend of mine and he put it on a computer which cost $70.00. The water temperature sensor was bad, it was telling the computer on the truck that the engine was still cold, so I was getting to much gas and not enough air. Changed the sensor and it ran great. So maybe your sensor is going bad also. Hope that this helps. Good luck

mtermine

my audi cs5000 has just started revving on its own while idle...from 1000 upto 14/1500
the garage has had it for 2 days & havent come up with anything yet !!
it seems to run ok while driving its just when you take your foot off the accelerator....it doesnt act like it will stall just spikes up & down....ive had the vacuum hose changed ( from the turbo-manifold )
any ideas........anyone
something that i can take back to the mechanic to try.........i want to go away for a few days on monday !!!
cheers
marco

Mr_Shiftright

tear in the rubber intake boot that attaches to the intake manifold. Look on the underside. Very common Audi 5000 problem.

tstewart

It was a loose vacuum hose. Replacing the hose, fixed the problem. But, of course the Mercury dealer found $800 worth of other work that they wanted to do. Ball Joints, dirty transmission fluid, engine and injector cleaner ($150 just for this, put some cleaner in the engine, let it run and then change the oil. Yea, right.)

$105 to find and fix the vacuum leak and install a new air filter.

It runs fine now.

kimler

I have a 1990 chevrolet 350 pickup with 243,000 miles on it. It still runs like a champ, can easily beat other cars lol. But any ways, upon starting and driving in town, does not matter on the speed, but every once in a while (more and more common now) it will start to sputter and drop in rpm. My oil pressure doesn't really drop any lower than normal, but the rpm drops almost to a point of stalling, which has happened several times but not recently. This sputtering will continue for about 30 seconds, and then will stop and fire back up normally. If at a stop sign this will happen or stop light, and then the rpm will shoot back up actually overwhelming my breaks and shoving me forward a couple of inches. Pressing on the gas does NOTHING, I have already replaced the fuel pump and have put in fuel injection cleaner. Nothing has seemed to work, has anybody else had this problem?

dec26girl

I am a new owner of my first car a 1980 AMC Concord sedan..... as far as i know it's a 4.5L V6... not sure if you need that info or not....

It's driven fine the last month while my brother had it but then found out it needed the starter replaced, butno thing happened since. All of a sudden, it dies on me. The first time it happend, i thought i ran out of gas... the car sputtered and then just shut right down, the steering column even locked up (even tho it obviously doesn't have power steering!). I had it driven home but it kept failing and stalling out. I had the fuel filter replaced... it drove fine the next day...... and then the 3rd day it did it again.... a couple of "shakes" (does it make sense if i explain that it feels like air bubbles in the gas peddle....loses power....) from the muffler it felt and then just lost power. I was, however, able to drive it home fine about 10 minutes later. I now have it parked in my drive way.

Being a student, i'm low on cash and i'd like to take it in to a shop, but cannot afford to have it inspected as well, as the parts and labor. Your insight would be *greatly* appreciated. Thank you!

bednar0953

Im having problems with my 97 sebring.My car is ideling bad and every time i come to a stop or slow down it stalls out. I have replaced the O2 sensors and all new plugs and wires. Does anyone have any suggestions.
PLEASE HELP

[Deleted User]

Am following the Nissan workshop manual diagnostic instructions for stalling at start-up and driving (not idling). The instructions list several possible causes, including a bad oxygen sensor. They say to disconnect the sensor and see whether the problem goes away. If it does, the sensor must be replaced. My question: Is it O.K. to drive a car with the oxygen sensor disconnected? Can that foul the catalytic converter?

alcan

No. The engine control computer will stay in open loop operation and control air-fuel mixture based on inputs from all the other sensors sending data to it. The O2 sensor feedback to the computer is used to fine tune the mixture for maximum fuel economy and emission reduction (closed loop operation).

Might be a good idea to verify coolant temp sensor operation with a scan tool.

[Deleted User]

Thanks for Alcan's prompt, reassuring explanation and advice.

zgiles

95 Ford Windstar 2ooK miles 3.8L. This van of my girlfriends was running terrible. I found "melted" vacuum lines @ the EGR comparitor(sensor w/ 2 vac lines going into it ) and the air inlet duct had a hole in it and was loose. I replaced all the vacuum hoses and repaired inlet duct, verified EGR components worked per the manual, but I still have a rough idle(500-900rpm surge), it dies out if I accelerate. Then once warm(5 min.) it runs fine. I have had codes of 1407 EGR no flow detected, 1131&1151 lack of upstream heated o2 sensor switch lean bank 1&2, 0171&0174 Bank 1&2 fuel system too lean. I cleared the codes the started the cold van up, It idled rough still. I let it warm up then took it for a hard ride. I could never get a code to kick back up! some of these codes justifyable aren't HARD faults since I don't have the codes now! My question is won't an o2 sensor be bad or not bad? especially when its cold? If the EGR didn't detect any flow wouldn't it run bad throughout the power band? and the 1&2 fuel banks deffinately aren't lean @ idle, more like rich, are the the o2 sensors are telling it different? the only tests I did on the components where ohm and volt ck. limits per a clymers manual. I dont like "throwing" parts @ this beat up ol van.
Any ideas on what to dig into first? :sick:

sentra00

My Nissan Sentra 2000 is all falling apart. It first started started to just choke a few times when i tryed starting in after it sat for a few hours, If i steped on the gas and pumped it, it didn't choke. Then after some time it started to choke worse and worse (the whole car was shaking). And then one day when i was driving as I was entering the freeway, It was losing power, I had to floor the gas pedal to reach 60 mph. It slowly started to reduce speed and after I came of the nerest exit It choked. I wasnt able to start it afterwords for a while. After I did start it it barley was reaching 20mph from a complete stop, I couldnt get it to go faster than 40 mph. After I barely made it home I can't keep it running after i start it.

smitty14

I have an '03 Spec V that has gone through two mass air flow sensors in 4 weeks. Check engine light comes on won't run over 2000 RPM and the codes say it's the sensor. It has a cold air intake on it. Help!! These things are expensive.

bmw86

I have an 86 BMW 2.7, 6 cyl, fuel injected, 5 speed. Car runs strong, no oil leaks, change fluids, oil, and maintain the car pretty well. In the last year, I put new fuel pump, O2 sensor, and starter celinoid in. Everything was fine. Month ago, driving at 60 mph, and car just shut down. Changed injectors, still same problem. Car idols fine, soon as it is given gas, starts misfiring. Some cylinders sound like not firing. Over 300,000 miles. Gonna get diagnostics test, but curious to see if any one may have an idea what is wrong. Heard of fuel injector metering, but not sure what that is.

Mr_Shiftright

Check for a break in the rubber intake housing, underneath where you can't see it.

carlos83

My cavalier 98 (automatic) has given me much trouble: the water pump broke, the transmision failed, the alternator failed, the ABS light is constantly on, the horn failed, the gas pump makes a hissing sound when tank is under half full, engine rebuilt,etc (over 1500$ spent on repairs over 2 years). Lately, the trouble is that the engine stalls, or rattles roughly, when the car is on on "park"-or when not accelerating, or when stopping ,and when it stops after some rattling, it will have trouble starting again(will only start if I step on the gas pedal). The car will run fine as long as I am stepping on the accelerator. I can predict when the problem will arise because the temperature needle will suddenly drop (from 3/4 to 1/4) while running. The problem is spontaneously resolved for 3 days or so and then returns, mostly after a day of long driving. Need help on possible causes of trouble: Thanks.

tatochipper

Hi there,

I have a 2001 Astro van, V6, 4.3L engine, 45000 miles or so, just started giving me grief.

What happens, is when I try to start the van normally, it runs, and runs fine. SOMETIMES

Other times, I start it, it dies. I start it again, give it a little gas, let off the gas, it dies. Start it again, give it some gas, coax it to stay running, although idling low, low oil pressure the whole deal. Then I put it into gear, and it stalls. I have to two-foot drive it wherever I go after that. Turn it off, wait an hour go out again and it runs fine.

This last time, it actually stalled on me coming to a stop at a corner and it seemed like all the lights flashed on in the dash (which is normal when it stalls, I guess) but as well, the stereo flashed and reset all my presets, leading me to assume that power was denied the unit at the same time.

I am totally confused, had it put on the scan, no error codes.

Any helpful suggestions out there?

(as well, the door lock and the window on the drivers side have been giving me grief in that they decide when they want to operate, and I just had to replace the factory stereo with the remote CD because that quit working. ARGH - it's enough to make you think the damn thing is possessed.... :confuse: )

jjpcat

It has the 3.3L engine and 151k miles. It ran smoothly (no stall, idle, or sputter issue) until yesterday when the engine stalled almost everytime I moved my foot away from the gas pedal. When it quited, the engine just did it quietly without any strange noise. Any idea before I send it to the garage? Thanks.

reddog7

My daughter is having the same problem with her 1996 sebring. Did you ever get the problem resolved? She had new plugs and wires and the egr valve checked but it did not resolve the problem.

gotoalpine

recently taken over an old but pretty good shape Audi S4000 from an aging parent. The vehicle have the j-tronics mechanical injection system. It idles really rough when cold and stalls at times. It runs fine after it is warm, which is about 15 minutes. I purchased a manual and it shows that there is a fuel mixture adjustment in the center of the fuel injection manifold. However, it is different on the actural car and there is no obvious location where one can adjust the mixture. The adjustment is suppose to move the air balance disk up or down to compensate for air fuel mixture. Does anyone have any information how I can adjust the fuel mixture. Thanks GotoAlpine :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright

It's a long thin rod like an allen wrench, but I'm not sure this is what you should be doing without an air/fuel meter and I don't think this is where you problem is. You should check for vacuum leaks, especially in the underside of the rubber boot that connects the fuel injection to the intake manifold.

battherup

I bought my my 2000 ES 300 used a 4 months ago, since then it had the air flow sensor went out. I got that replaced. Right AFTER that repair the car started having idle problems. It would start, then quickly shut off (stall) if I did not keep my foot on the gas, it would not hold an idle. I could get the car to start after a few tries. It happen once a week at first then more frequiently to once a day then every time I went to start it.

I took it to a dealer and they said I have a faulty air valve that needs replacing.

How serious is an air valve replacemnet?
Is it labor intensive?
What relation if any is this problem to the air sensor that was replaced two months ago?

I am wondering if this air valve problem could have been caused by the last repair.

Thanks

gotoalpine

Mr Shiftright,

Thanks for your suggestion. I checked all the vacuum lines already and replaced suspicious lines. I double checked by spraying carb cleaner around all line to check if any leaks may cause idle speed to increase with inlet of carb cleaner. On a previous model of VW there was an adjustment hole at the top of the injector manifold which can be adjusted with an allen wrench. However, on this Audi there isn't any access adjustment hole. Any suggestions? Gotoalpine

Mr_Shiftright

Should be an idle adjustment but I just don't remember where that was...sorry...too many cars, too many years --LOL! I'll try to ask around for you. Meanwhile, check the obvious, like spark plugs as well.

kev3795

I have a 97 Cavalier, 2.2L, 150K+ on the odometer. Overall, the car runs okay, but I am having several wacky issues that have cropped up over time: When I park and turn the AC off, the engine stalls. When turning at low idle, such as pulling into a parking spot, the steering is sometimes very tight. When I hit a puddle, something from the engine compartment "screams" for a few moments, as if the belt is slipping.

Last night I changed the oil and filter, installed new plugs, air filter, and replaced the leaking #1 fuel injector. (Over the last year, I had already replaced 3 of the 4 fuel injectors, due to leaking.) After all of that was complete, the engine initially did not want to start. I finally got it started, but it stuggled somewhat, and the check engine light was blinking. I rechecked my plug wires to make sure I had not mixed them up, and I'm 99% sure they are correct. I started the engine again, and it ran better, but the check engine light was lit steady. I test drove the car, and it stalled as I was slowing down and starting a turn. Today, driving the car to work, the light was still lit, and the car stalls at every stop. The check engine light has gone away, so I don't know where to look now.

I wonder if any of you have any ideas or have experienced similar performance??

Thanks!

alcan

Cracked plug, damaged plug wire terminal, crossed wires. The flashing check engine light indicates a fault which can damage the catalytic converter, usually because of dumping unburned fuel into it. The only way to diagnose it properly is to retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes (AutoZone will do it no charge), post them, and we'll go from there.

bmcfarland

I have the exact same problem. I had it before and replaced the cap and rotor and the problem cleared up. That trick didn't work this time. Did you fix your problem?

Regards,
Bruce

sierramtb

I have an '99 Isuzu Rodeo V6 Manual transmission, which has been to the dealer shop 3x's in the last 3 wks only had it home the last three days.
Engine starts with high idle at 2000-2600+rpms. When I shift from 1st to 2nd(or any others), the rpms increase to 3000 until the clutch is left out then back to 2000. When coming to a stop, I push in the clutch and downshift the rpms increse with each downshift and at stop the engine revs and goes to 2000+. Also, if I leave it in gear and slow down with the brakes it will go to low rpms under 2000 but as soon as the clutch is in, it revvs up to 3000. Also revving the engine and/or pulling up on the gas pedal seem to have no effect on the rpms; depressing the clutch pedal a few times seems to have no effect either when at a stop.
I have requested the parts replaced because they were not the problem. I do not know what to do and at a loss of $1000!

Does anyone think this is a throttle positioning prob or throttle sensor?

Items replaced:
Gasket IN, Gasket COM, Stabilizer, Changed oil & filter, IAC. PCV, Sensor AS, and MOD ( some kind of computer motor).