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Comments
thanks.
Let me know if you have difficulties, and I'll provide a more detailed step by step guide--but it definitely works! Good Luck. Steve
I have been reading this forum a lot lately, and it seems that the Acura dealers can't figure out much.
After no help from the dealer, I did two things myself. I applied silicone disc brake adhesive (stops vibration and chatter) to the backs of the front brake pads. Also, I applied a high temerature brake lubricant to the mounting pins and the retaining springs. This requires removing the front brake pads from the caliper, but is easily accomplished by a brake shop, the dealer, or a car owner if mechanically inclined.
I also reported this to Acura over a month ago and have had no help to date. My fix has worked to date and makes my RL sound like a new car. I suppose the only downside is a small possibility of the dust seal on the brake caliper piston sticking to the brake adhesive and tearing, or dislodging the seal, as the pads wear and move further away from the seal. It's a small risk to have for the quiet. The rattle was driving me nuts! This is very definitely a brake pad/caliper design issue and the poor Acura/dealer response will weigh heavily in my next car purchase. I do not like spending nearly $50K and having to fix my problems myself! Good luck!
Try several hard stops, or alternatively, drive in reverse at a speed of 20mph or so, and do several hard stops. This should help deglaze the brake pads. Obviously, either of these should be done with great caution in a safe area with no traffic, such as an empty parking lot.
Unfortunately, it's not that simple... The defeat switch also disables the key fob and exterior trunk latch. At that point, the only way to open the trunk is via a manual handle accessible via the rear seat passthru or re-enable the defeat switch.
Should add I am not high on car dealers in general. They want to shove the iron out the door, but I have not found many service departments willing to spend a lot of time on customer issues. To date, Lexus has been the best. And, I will not buy another car until the end of its first model year!
Did jmatthe resolve your problem? Could you tell me what year is your Acura? I have the same problem you have mentioned on this Feb. Want to know jmatthe's suggested trick work for you since then.
Last night I was working on this issue till 3am this morning. I took the battery to Autozone for free checking and came home with my healthy battery and a good brass battery terminal. I replaced the negative connection and reconnet my old battery. It did not work and I have to jump start the car. I drove around and stop and start and it gave the same old moody behavior.
I knew someone should have this problem posted on the internet and happy to see your posted question. The first time with jmatthe's trick, the car was started without assistance since last night, it make a lot of noise, then I found out a glove as caught by the hood and hitting the fan. As I pop the hood and the noise was mitigated. During the 2nd start with the same trick, the engine start ok but I cannot turn off the engine, I heard the starter was clicking with a moderate noise while the engine is running. I turned the key a few time to on and off and it finally the engine was off. Then I used jmatthe's trick a few times and it works. The last 2 times I did not use jmatthe's trick and it works also.
I guessed I was as puzzle as what you experienced.
I gathered that there is a short somewhere in the switch ???? I used to have a 97 Honda and it has ignition switch problem. That was really serious for one time it killed the engine while my wife was driving with our children on the highway. She stopped in the middle lane of a major highway and helicopter come etc. What a drama. I gathered the same company make Acura may foul up again?
The service manager is going to research with Acura engineering. I told him the blade noise is unacceptable.
I have put nothing on the windshield (raindance etc) I have only cleaned with Invisible Glass cleaner
Any ideas on what may be the cause.
Mine is going in to get fixed on 8/2.
Thanks for the reply. After the fix, would you mind posting the details on the repair? My RL continues to be OK after my repairs, but I am interested to see what the repair entails to see if I should take mine back to the dealer.
Also, the LCD screen has a delay in the change on readout after the present singer/song ends--anyone know a fix?
Finally, the right side mirror doesn't always return to the preset after I backup and then put the car in drive--- anyone know a fix???
I truly love the car and believe these are issues that occur with every new production--but, I would like , sooner or later, to resolve these issues
many thanks,
Steve
The other issue with the fuel warning and range is more annoying, but still a design mistake. The range indicator on my RL shows zero range when I have at least 3 gallons left. Thus, the range is zero about when the low fuel warning comes on. I appreciate the need to have some conservative estimate of the range, but as is it is virtually useless. That is, once the range hits zero, now all I know is that I have 3 gallons left and somewhere in the range of 60 miles left. The low fuel warning already tells me that. The range should be more accurate so that when the low fuel warning comes on, I can switch to range and get a more accurate idea of how much farther I can go.
1. when storing a phone number in the hands-free dialer, how can I store a "hard pause" (i.e., send a string of numbers AFTER the phone answers);
2. on my 2004 TL, when the phone was linked and working, there was a telephone icon in the display above the a/c vents. It doesn't seem as though there is any such indicator in the 2005 RL, I only know if the phone is linked when I try to make a call. Or have I missed something here?
Love this car, just trying to figure it out!
Thanks.
I couldn't agree with you more. I love my new RL and all, but those are my two biggest issues too!
Steve
Anybody know how that could be fixed to make it more accessible to fasten seat belt on driver side. It's kind of a struggle to do it, don't ya think? I also notice that the shift is closer to the dash than the older model (knuckles almost hit the dash when putting it in park?
I wondering if this is what Consumer Guide meant when they referred to lacking in accessability, inaccessable, or whatever it was they or somebody I heard said about this car?
Also, a design issue: in the 2004 TL, when the phone was successfully paired, you'd see the telephone icon in the display to confirm. In the 2005 RL, no such icon. You only know if it's paired when you go to make a call and it works or doesn't work. Too bad they didn't include that icon, I always found it helpful.
So far, this car has been extremely reliable and a joy to own. Looking forward to hammering it through a Midwestern winter storm. Actually, maybe not, since I hate the winters here.