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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The blinker/flasher module is behind the glove box thats the noise that you should hear with turn signals on. Could be the multifunction switch in the column or possible brake light switch on the pedal.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Either you have a shorting wire somewhere in the vehicle that you have to track down or the fuel pump is failing and drawing too many amps so fuse blows. Check fuel pump relay or replace and make sure all connections are clean at fuses and pump - corrosion causes more resistance thus amps increase so fuse blows. Check the vac lines under hood for the heater, then heater core, temp running normal (thermostat), and blower working.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Never said year or model but would say the Passlock security system was activated. Older ones have special keys and newer do not but shuts off ignition. Try turning the key off with the battery connected, remove battery cable again and see if key comes out. Then with key out connect battery - did it work. If the security light continues to flash after 5 sec when key is turned to run thats passlock (should go out like other dash warnings).
  • kehoek97kehoek97 Member Posts: 2
    When I bought my '95 Blazer it came with some type of alarm. On the left side of the dash there is an A and a M switch. The switch is always suppose to be on M if not the alarm sounds. With the cold weather we have been having my battery died. Once the battery died, I jumped the vehicle and it would start because the alarm was triggered. The way I used to turn the alarm off is to use a keyless entry switch and press a button and it would turn off. Now the switch will not work. I bought new batteries for it also, still nothing. I tried to disconnect all of the fuses within the truck and that did nothing. My question is, is there a fuse box in the engine area in which the alarm would be connected to? OR is there is anything anyone can think of to fix this problem. When the alarm is triggered the vehicle will not turn over.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Most aftermarkets connected under drivers side dash - simple solution is new one for $100-150 or so installed - fixed. You could hunt along time on the old one.
  • swhitneyswhitney Member Posts: 1
    let me start by saying i don't know anything about cars i just got a 94 blazer and i keep blowing fuses in it left anf right well one the one where it tells you how fast your going can you tell me whats wrong with my fuse box
  • medic604medic604 Member Posts: 2
    Can lights be replaced in such items as the power window controls, radio button back lighting, and other dashboard back lighting? All the lights in my Delco factory radio are burned out and others are following.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    94 has the digital dash which often has shorts in the main card which is the dash - many sites on the www that rebuild them about $150. If not the dash you are talking about you have a short in the wiring that you have to find.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Generally speaking all light sources are replacable. Some are just harder to get to than others. You also need to watch the voltage on the bulbs. Many auto bulbs used in the dash, radio, and other hard to reach places are actually rated for 16-18v for longevity.

    As for window controls, the bulb may be built into the switch and not be available as a separate piece. Varies from one application to another.

    Jim
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    I also have a 2000 Blazer 4 door 4WD 63,000 original miles. I have already replaced the multifunction switch in 2004 as the turn signal sound problem happened. This week my replaced turn signal switch started to act up - left turn clicking rhythm started to beat twice as fast as before. The right-turn signal is normal. There is no other symptoms. Is this an early sigh of something bad? Did anyone have the same problem"
  • biggietallsbiggietalls Member Posts: 1
    my 94 fullsize blazer's hatch wont open when I hit the switch doesn't even make a sound somone told me the motor was blown out but I was wondering if it could be something else checked all the fuses and nothing blown... it was working earlier but now it's not does anybody have any other ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Are all bulbs still working, and if so try replacing the flasher behind the glove box about $15. Some of the 2000-2001 did have a recall on the harzard button part of that MFS and my 01 the dealer just pulled that portion out and replaced free in 10 minutes - call and run the VIN on recall.
  • donnelly3donnelly3 Member Posts: 3
    Hey guys thanks for your help. Yes all bulbs work fine in emergency flasher mode.I have already replaced the flasher unit behind the glove box and also changed the brake light switch.Something that might help you suggest another possible cause is that with the turn fuse from position #10 out I can be coming to a stop and as long as my foot is on the brake the left turn signal works fine. Once I lift my foot it stops but the right signal doesn't work at all. Please help , with this kind of problem the chevy dealership would probably charge me more than I make in a year.
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    Many owners have experienced the same issue. If not for this site I may have spent over $500.00 for the repair. Your actuator still works electronically. The issue is a small piece of plastic at the end of the mechanism. It has broken off and won't do it's job. You'll have to purchase an actuator from the dealer. Mine was about 80.00 CND. The hole you are speaking of does'nt really matter because being broken the actuator won't work mnaually so forget about the hole. You'll have to pull (carefully) the panel back above the hole. Wedge a tool or a block of wood so you can work in there. You will be able to manually unlock the gate. Remove the metal panel on the gate. You'll see the actuator. It is fairly simple to replace. Make sure you have the right tools ie: impact wrench or as you will have to remove about twenty small bolts. Book yourself about two hours to complete this work. Good Luck.
  • ealvarezealvarez Member Posts: 7
    1998Jimmy LT, My problem is that te domelight stays on and the only wayto turn the light off is using the overide switch. That means I also need tochange the light switch or assembly? plese send answer to my email...thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    plese send answer to my email

    That would deprive members of valuable information. Let's keep it here so we can all learn and benefit. :)

    tidester, host
  • auto9999auto9999 Member Posts: 86
    Thanks for your message. All bulbs work fine and the emergency flasher works fine, too. I think the problem is the flasher unit. I will try and live with the fast left turn signal, unless it develops into more serious problems. Thank you for your help.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    GM has had some problems with voltage dropping in the ignition switch (actually is the connector and wiring) in the column. Drops to 10 volts and raises hell with blinkers or vehicle may actually stall - PCM sees voltage drop and shuts ign off). Not common but in many GM product lines.
  • donnelly3donnelly3 Member Posts: 3
    Repairdog thanks for telling me about the voltage drop but can you now tell me how I can test for this problem. I have all kinds of electrical test equipment but need to know what circuit I should check.
  • ealvarezealvarez Member Posts: 7
    Ok, Lets keep it here...so what is the answer to my problem?
    The reason I wanted the answere on my e-mail is because I check my e-mail several times daily...but thanks anyway, how about an answer to my problem
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Check your door switches.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    GM techs use their scan tool that takes realtime data which you can buy also for about $200. Look at teh ignition and PCM voltage while driving and put the blinker on - does it stall? Have to be able to run it while driving and look at data on a PC. Saw this in a GM tech article when lookingh for why my 01 would stall for no reason. Beyond most common equipment. Sorry.
  • fanuttinfanuttin Member Posts: 9
    Hello! RE: your dome light problem. If you would like to get quality advice from this forum, I would try an attitude adjustment B-4 looking @ door switches nufsaid?
  • jgislerjgisler Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the problem to your power door lock failure? I have the same problem with my '96 Blazer and
    haven't been able to figure it out. Please let me know.

    Thanks
    Jim
  • ealvarezealvarez Member Posts: 7
    What is the easiest way to check the door switches? should I buy all four new and change them or is there another way?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    When you open your car door, you should see one or more thin plastic buttons protruding from the metallic frame. These are the switches. Just press and release them with your finger. The movement should be smooth. What you are looking for is any hint that the movement of the switches is being impaired by a buildup of grease or dirt which may prevent the switches from making or breaking contact. While you're doing this, keep an eye on the dome light.

    If there is a problem, you should try cleaning the plastic switches - either with a small amount of alcohol or warm water. That's a LOT cheaper than replacing them. This may or may not solve your problem but it is worth checking it out.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • stacey0475stacey0475 Member Posts: 1
    Can you email me the pics? stacyschoolcraft@hotmail.com
  • ggharris72ggharris72 Member Posts: 1
    multifuntion switch (different name for the turn signal switch) about $145 from advance auto. Have to take the steering wheel off, probably about an hour job if you know what you're doing, 3 hours if you figure it out as you go along in which case i reccomend a haynes manual.
  • mnpalmer2mnpalmer2 Member Posts: 1
    The main dashboard lights and the ones behind the heater controls are replaceable with bulbs available at most auto parts stores. However the ones behind the window/mirror controls, Radio, Rear Window defogger, 4 x 4 switches and steering wheel audio controls are not so easy to replace, but can be done if you are handy with a soldering iron.
    Some of them are a quarter turn plastic holder of varying colours/bulb sizes. The dealers do not stock them here (Canada, however you can buy replacement bulbs of the same size or close to them from commercial Electronics stores (not Radio Shack or The Source). They are wire lead bulbs and you need to pull the dead bulbs out of the plastic holders and replace them with new ones. No soldering required. The radio and Rear Window defog switch require you to unsolder the bulbs (using Dry Wick to get the solder off) and solder new ones in - I used Eiko #1118 Grain of Wheat bulbs, pulling the old bulbs out of the little plastic holders with pliers and a knife to get all of the broken glass out. I Could not see a way to remove the bulbs from the 4 x 4 switch, as they are behind the circuit board which is non removeable (?. I cannot see an easy way to get at the bulbs behind the steering wheel audio controls. Very close to the airbag.
    I hope this helps.
    MNP
  • nickyp1nickyp1 Member Posts: 7
    I'm still having the same problem as described in the title on my 98 s-10 blazer.Someone suggested that the problem might be a shorted body control module.I know this a fused circuit,that is dedicated to these 3 controls,because the fuse used to blow.After replacing it a couple of times it would work for a day or so.Now the fuse does not blow at all,nor do any of the controls work.
    P.S.Can someone please where the body control module is located and how much it might cost.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Have a dealer use their scan tool to pinpoint before replacing - could be a wiring problem. Have you checked the relays in the underhood box?
  • pettybiltpettybilt Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    working on a 1999 2wd blazer, the diver side brake light works intermitting. Some times it works some times it don't.I've pulled the driver seat and the carpet back to check for shorts, but no luck. Also the gas gauge does not work properly, it moves back from full to empty but only when at a stop, not driving.

    Please help
  • pettybiltpettybilt Member Posts: 2
    Working on a 1999 2wd blazer, the driver side tail light works intermitting. After reading many post i decided to pull the driver seat and the carpet to check for shorts with no luck. I also have a fuel gauge that does not work properly, it moves back and forth when stopped but not so much when driving. But the gauge is not accurate.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    That gas gauge is a known Blazer defect and only fix is usually a new fuel pump that has the new style gauge as 1 unit - have to drop the tank and the Delco pump is dealer $500 or online $300 - also sometimes a bad ground or tank top connecter - but the whole unit is the usual fix - sorry.
    One of mine does that and we use the trip odometer to be sure till I get the cash and ambition to do it.

    Pull the brake ligt assembly off the rear (2 screws hold on from hatch side - open hatch to access - check the socket and assembly for water/moisture. Under the rear bumper theres a wiring bundle for trailer lights - see if that is good no cuts etc.
  • pieceof____carpieceof____car Member Posts: 3
    Most times truck will start fine and will run but random things seem to make the car turn off on some occasions or restart. Sometimes the I'll see all the dash lights come on just like when initially starting the vehicle and it will continue to run fine with no symptoms other than the lights... other times it will lose all electrical and I will have to steer off the road without power steering and disconnect the battery and reconnect.

    It seems to be completely random... it's happened when simply putting the car in gear, it's happened when turning the wheels to pull out of a parking spot, under normal driving conditions (REALLY SCARY - as it will lose all electrical so no flashers or brake lights), one I even got to work fine and when I came out to start the car at lunch there was no power - disconnect the battery/reconnect the battery and it was fine.

    It seems like a short somewhere and it's frustrating as hell! Please somebody give me a place to start. I don't have the money to put it into a dealership for them to troubleshoot an electrical problem. Luckily we have a third car that I can drive temporarily until this one is safe again.

    Thanks!
  • jenbo831jenbo831 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Blazer and just the other day the fuse for my taillights and courtsey lights blew. Everytime I replace it and turn my lights back on, it instantly blows again. I was told this means I have a short. Why would I all of a sudden have this problem and how should I go about fixing it? Thanks for any help!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    If the dash was ever out (heater core replaced) that would be a reason. Have the alternator and battery tested free at most auto stores. Then there is a recall on the flasher/hazard switch in the column so call the dealer with your VIN and ask them to check. GM has had some problems on the ignition module (actually the connector and wiring) in the column and often relates to when a blinker is on the PCM sees a voltage drop and shuts off - a new ign mod fixes but this is not easy to find. Hope theres not an aftermarket alarm in it or that could be it. Then finally when it happens does the security light flash right before - thats a Passlock triggered shutdown again a wiring/connector problem in the column.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check for moisture in the tail light assembly and look at the wiring bundle above the rear bumper for cuts (trailer towing wires). Also look under the vehicle for any visible damage to wiring. Could also be the switch assembly in the dash (has all the auto on/off circuits) or the door jam switches - see if one broken or damaged.
  • pieceof____carpieceof____car Member Posts: 3
    Wow! A light at the end of the tunnel. I'll check all these out. Thanks for the suggestions.
  • jenbo831jenbo831 Member Posts: 2
    thanks so much. i'm going to look over all of that tomorrow!
  • sbalsanosbalsano Member Posts: 5
    if any one can give me any ideas it would be greatly appreciated. my break lights are not lighting when i engage the pedal, the center brake light over the hatch works, and my rear park lights work. i replaced fuse, and installed new bulbs, no luck!
  • gfr214gfr214 Member Posts: 2
    My son just got this Blazer and the guy told him the dome lights stay on when car is off and all doors are closed. He pulled out the fuse so the battery would not drain down.

    I put the fuse back in, and yes the lights stay on. I "worked" all the door switches and they seemed to work freely. I also checked the dimmer/override switch and that seems to work, ie; dash lights dim.

    This fuse also runs the horn and the electric mirrors.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks..... :confuse:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Recall on 00-01 on the harzard switch that takes 10 min for the dealer to replace free - call and have them run the VIN.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Doen't the headlight switch have a dome override button - if that shuts it off its probably the headlight switch - contains all the auto headlight crap in it.
  • sbalsanosbalsano Member Posts: 5
    THANKYOU!
    I'm taking it tomorrow.
  • ealvarezealvarez Member Posts: 7
    I had the same problem on My GMC Jimmy and turn out to be the rear door switches. They have and adjustment if they are too much inside they wont touch the door and the light will stay on. Try pulling the inner part of the switch out with a set of pliers and adjust to the right distance...Good luck.
  • gfr214gfr214 Member Posts: 2
    I will give that a try and let you know if that worked.

    Thanks.... :confuse:
  • really_mreally_m Member Posts: 1
    I had this problem on my 1996 GMC Jimmy and have fixed it for the 2nd time today without buying anything from GM. A piece of plastic (blue in my Jimmy) attached to the solenoid breaks where it attaches to a lever that works the hatch release. My fix has been to use a nylon tie to hook the solenoid back to the lever (I read about this on-line somewhere when I fixed it the first time). You drill a small hole in the blue plastic and then thread the nylon wire tie through it and the steel lever. You can test it out with the tailgate down to make sure it activates okay. The hardest part is releasing the window to get to everything. I removed the plastic handle on the tailgate release to allow the plastic panel to open up more. You need to find a steel lever and work it laterally to release the window. In my 1996 Jimmy the lever was on the left side if you are in the vehicle. And you can do this without removing the steel panel. An access hole barely allows enough clearance to drill the hole in the blue plastic and fit your fingers to thread the nylon tie. Good Luck.
  • bri_4623bri_4623 Member Posts: 4
    This has been driving me crazy for months!!!
    I seem to have a dead short in the circuit that conrols my rear lift for the glass, the interior light and the horn. I can't even put a fuse in the fuse box for this circuit.
    It started as an intermittant blowing of the fuse when I would open the rear glass.
    Anyone else experienced this?
    Any ideas of where to start, I have to go through inspection next month?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I would point you to the known 97 only failure of the ignition switch which is not the key/tumbler but the column wiring and connector that causes many strange electrical problems. Look it up at the online auto sites and see the pic. Get a GM dealer to do the work.
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