Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

tigerpermtigerperm Member Posts: 1
edited October 2018 in Chevrolet
I've got a blazer with over 100k miles on it. In the past couple of days, I drive down the road and it sounds like the right turn signal is constantly on. Is this the precursor to a serious electrical problem? Any advice appreciated. Thanks -


  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Just to rule it out - but is there any possibility that something is tapping against the steering column such as a keychain or somesuch?

    tidester, host
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    You are lucky this time cause the flasher is a recall item (had mine done free) that is part of the mulifunction switch - all they do is pop the harzard switch out the top of the column and put a new one in - due to failed brake lights because the flashers use same circuit but the top mount or third brake light still works. This should cure the problem. Behind the glove box are 2 relays or canisters 1 for flashers and 1 for blinkers - thats where you hear the noise I'd guess. Earlier models often replace the whole multif switch to solve the noise but this is the part that should do it - for free so let all know how it works out.
  • cbarnettcbarnett Member Posts: 1
    My blazer's brake lights have failed but the top mount still works. Called my local dealership and they said was no recall on this. Can you give me some more specifics on the recall that you are speaking of.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Its the flasher switch on top of the steering column and mine was replaced on a recall - run the VIN # and it will come up on their computer - if not ask for the service manager. Lazy guys sounds like.
  • hybridprhybridpr Member Posts: 3
    a few months ago the power door locks just stopped working. also the keyless entry no longer works when i disarm the car alarm. when i press the lock or unlock button on the door, i hear a clicking coming from inside the glovebox from the relays. could that be where my problem is? whats the fix for this?

  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    see answer in other section - don't double post!
  • bigjoe85bigjoe85 Member Posts: 5
    I have an 01 blazer 4.3 vortec and Im having trouble I think with the feul system. When I would pull up to a stop light sat there longer than 5 min. it will cut off on me and it and now its shutting off while im driving down the road. I have no problem starting it backup though. Fuel pump or possibly injectors?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Don't double post - see answer in starting stalling post.
  • raidercoopraidercoop Member Posts: 4
    Hello Everyone, The mchanism that releases the rear glass hatch will not release. I can hear it engaging but not releasing. How do I get the panel off without tearing it up? What are the repairs that will have to be made once I get to it? Thanks for any help!! Raidercoop!!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Open the whole hatch (assume you don't have the tailgate/window) and remove the plastic panel screws and then the handle screws - mech is inside there.
  • raidercoopraidercoop Member Posts: 4
    there is no way to open the whole hatch manually. All the entries are electric. there is not a keyed button on the exterior of the hatch and the handle on the inside will not open the tailgate. As such I cant get to the screws that hold on the plastic panel. I have already removed the screws that hold the handle on and removed the handle. I just don't know how to remove the panel without tearing it up. Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks Raidercoop!!
  • jimmy_biehnjimmy_biehn Member Posts: 1
    Had the exact same problem on 98 Blazer. Issue was the turn signal switch mechanism. Unfortunately part was $250 & $250 labor to install since steering column has to be disassembled to install it. Only 80k on vehicle at the time. Low grade parts appears to be the real issue ....
  • jdreed8jdreed8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Blazer that I can't open the window/tailgate on. I hear the solenoid but assume the link is busted. Anyone know how to get the window open so I can get to the mechanism? Any help greatly appreciated
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    I have the same issue w/ my 02 Blazer. I've followed this discussion a little in hopes of hearing a solution. I don't see any further posts. Did you sort it out? Sean in Toronto
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    I cannot get the rear gate or hatch to open on my 02 Blazer. I can hear the actuator operating but it will not complete the task. I realize a pin is broken on this part however how does one manually open the gate or hatch to begin the repair?
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    Any luck w/ your tailgate / actuator issue?
  • raidercoopraidercoop Member Posts: 4
    Well after getting completely frustrated with the whole issue I finally found out what's wrong with the glass release switch. There is a plastic connector that is attached to a lever that in turn presses against a switch. That plastic piece is broken at the connection point. Leave it to GM to use a piece of plastic in a mechanism that will move thousands of times. The bad thing about the whole process is that while I was trying to figure everything out I broke the panel that covers the tailgate and now have to see if I will be lucky enough to find another one at a junkyard. I would assume that the plastic piece can be purchased from a local chevy dealer. With hindsight being 20/20, I found that there is an access hole in the tailgate to get to the switch that opens the glass. You will not be able to get the panel off until you open the entire hatch but you can pry the panel back enough to get access to the switch. I will take pics and try to post them on this board. If I can't post them here, I have a account that the pics can be viewed there. Anyway you are in for a very frustrating time. Since I was so irritated I decided it would be best to take break and haven't messed with it since, but I believe I could fabricate a different connector out of metal so that I would not have to deal with this trife issue anymore. Stay tuned for the pics. RAIDERCOOP!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You already have your CarSpace page set up. If you click on the album link there it's easy to copy photos from your computer to ours and then post them here, or just send people to your album. See the Help link for details.
  • dowkujodowkujo Member Posts: 2

    I have 97 Blazer with the same problem that I just fixed today for basically free. The Chevy dealer wanted $65 for a new release actuator and $125. for a new interior panel because you most likely will have to break your existing panel to open the glass. How stupid.

    Anyways, what I did was attempt to pull the interior panel away from the tail gate at the top near the tail gate release handle. Mine did break but I was then able to manually release the glass and then open the tail gate.

    With the tail gate down you can then remove the panel by unscrewing the two measly phillips screws on the left and right side of the panel and then pop the panel off. Keep the plastic pieces of the panel because I was able to glue them back and it looks like it will hold pretty well.

    Now that the panel is off, use a 7mm (I HATE metric) socket and remove the bolts surrounding the metal removalbe panel on the tail gate. Before lifting the panel up you'll notice two white plastic tab/rod clamps on the left and right side of this metal panel. You'll need to pop the rods out of these tabs in order to lift the panel up.

    Once done with that lift the panel up and take a peek underneath. There you'll see a black box held on by two phillips screws. This is the lock actuator. Sticking out of the side of this box is a rubber booted rod an inch or so long. When you push the release button on the tail gate (go ahead and do it) you'll see how the magic is supposed to happen. The booted rod is attached to a blue PLASTIC piece and the blue plastic piece is attached to the release arm. Well, my blue plastic piece was snapped off just short of where it is attached to the release arm. You'll prolly find the broken piece floating around in there somewhere.

    Here's how I fixed it. I found a roll of water-pipe plumbing strapping, you know, it's the stuff that looks like it's made of copper and has many holes in it for nailing to lumber. I cut a piece of it about 2 inches long and laid it on the blue plastic piece that was still attached to the rubber booted rod. Using a marker i marked where a hole of the strap fell and drilled a small hole through the plastic and attached the strap to the plastic with small stove bolts and flat washers.

    Next, using the same type small stove bolts, flat washers and nuts I attached the other end of the short strap to the release arm. Since you can't tighten the nuts that much I used lock-tight to keep the nuts from ever backing off.

    Also, I used a dremel-tool to smooth out the ridge on the blue plastic picece on both sides to give more flat surface area for the pipe strapping to bolt on and I also used a dremmel cut-off wheel to cut excess bolt away after the nuts are on and tight. Else it might interfere with something else.

    Before bolting the panel back on I tested it out and it looked like it was doing it's magic so I put it all back together and hot diggity I did it!!

    Instead of throwing away the old interior plastic panel I glued the broken off piece back on and secured with duct tape while it dried for 24 hours and it seems to be holding.

    So, that's how I did it and saved over $200.00. Hope this helps others defeat GM and their ridiculous factory way of fixing a broken piece of plastic!!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059

    tidester, host
  • boots76boots76 Member Posts: 1
    98 s-10 100k miles did cap ,rotor, plugs ,wires,. after a good rain runs rough under load no power. mechanic thinks fuel pump ,say's computer read out low pressure. i think electrical. only in damp conditions does this happen after dries out ok. help
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Fuel pressure test should show 60psi at key on engine off and it should hold it (pump only comes for for 2 seconds) then about 54psi running. If only when damp could be a wet connector at the crank sensor under the front of the engine. Have you put a new fuel filter on (every 25k miles) under frame by drivers seat. The pumps do often fail around then and use Delco replacement about $300 part online at rockauto or gmpartsdirect but have to drop tank. Also how is the battery and alternator - is the gage reading about 14V running - don't like low voltage so if its failing and reading below 12 have them tested free at most stores in car.
  • rockyday2000rockyday2000 Member Posts: 1
    I hope that someone out there might be able to help me troubleshoot a problem that I am having with my 1998 GMC Jimmy. The interior/dome lights will not turn on when the doors are opened on the vehicle, none of the doors being opened will trigger the lights to come on and I am at a loss as to what it might be. Has anyone out there had a similar problem?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    On the dash switch there is an "override" button for the dome lights - see if that is depressed. If not switch could be bad or a fuse blown so pull the cover on the side by the open drivers door. Your manual tells you what all of them are.
  • seconstseconst Member Posts: 1
    I just used the info I learned here to help me repair my '96 Jimmy. I also wanted to add some additional things I learned. This is dealing with the glass hatch/tailgate style Jimmy. By removing the plastic part of the tailgate handle (two screws on underside), I was able to pull back the plastic panel without cracking it at all. Once I got it all opened as was described by others, I found that the two nuts that hold the latch in place had come loose and fallen off. Prior to the glass not opening, it had become very difficult to close, so this is a possible solution for any who are having this problem as well.
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    So........ you recommend removing the plastic part on the handle on the inside of the tailgate itself? I'm not sure if your truck is the same as mine so I'd like to be sure. The inside panel on my 2002 Blazer is very secure in it's place. The plastic part would be covering the handle correct? And to be doubley sure it is on the inside? After this you say the panel can be removed without breakage? Pls confirm.

  • cmacdonaldcmacdonald Member Posts: 3
    There is a hole in the plastic panel covered by carpet. Feel for the soft spot at the top edge of the carpet in the center of the the tailgate. Insert a slightly bent, stiff steel rod in, then up inside the inner metal panel. Go in about 3-4 inches and fish for the window latch lever. The lever is above the hole and close to the inner panel, so work the bent end of the rod back towards you as you push it up and fish for the lever. It releases when tripped to the left.
  • kevin702kevin702 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: My 1999 Chevy Blazer started to over heat . checked water it was fine .But felt best to shut it down . waited 4 hours then restart and drove 1/4 mile it over heated again , this time white smoke coming from under hood . called brother he arrives within 15 mins starts car and heavy black smoke comes from exhaust car is makeing terrible noise but he says get it home . it ran for maybe 5 mins then sounded like someone was knocking under hood .Make a long story short car stalls .. wont restart now its been 24 hours and still wont even make an attempt to click over :mad: Light on panel says security systerms
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    First thing is did the coolant drop - had to with the white smoke or steam - you either blew the lower intake manifold gasket like all Blazers do by 100k and it dumped water in the valley or you got it really hot and blew a head gasket. So look around under the hood, in the reservior and radiator and see the state of it all. Then if coolant low or empty refill with water and get a free rental pressure radiator tester and pump it up to 16 lbs and see where it leaks - if you can't see where pull the oil dip stick and see if water in there. Also pull the spark plugs and see if they are all wet.
    As for the security light - when you turn the key to run (not start) it should go out within 5 sec - if not then you may have a passlock problem. Assumes the battery is charged so enough voltage and amperage to turn the starter - but don't do that till the water problem is found or you will certainly trash the motor and bearing.
  • armywife77armywife77 Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have pictures of this? I found the small hole in the panel under the carpet, and I see the mechanism that is moving to the lift when I press the button, I just for some reaon cannot release the lever by fishing around...I want to remove the plastic and have very much fought the urge to bash it in with a rubber mallet :) Pictures would be great...PLEASE HELP!! Need to fix so my husband can throw his ruck sacks in the back!!! THANK YOU :)
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    Could you post a photo of where the hole is and ID the year of your vehicle? I have searched a few times w/o any luck. Congrats on your success so far.

  • raidercoopraidercoop Member Posts: 4
    I will take some pics tomorrow and try to post them. I have a 2000 model. I also figured out a way to release the hatch without taking off the panel but it's difficult to explain. The pics would show the process much much better than I could explain it.
  • armywife77armywife77 Member Posts: 2
    Okay, I figured out what the problem was! By the way, it is a 2000 Jimmy that I have. Once I was able to open the window and hatch (the small gold piece with the hole for the plastic piece I got a hold of it and manually moved it to the left with a screw driver), I popped off the plastic piece, and then grabbed my 7mm socket/ratchet thing (sorry I am not very mechanically inclined) and popped the inner metal panel off and surveyed that the small plastic piece, indeed, broke.

    I used a Dremel tool to create a new hole in the remaining piece of plastic and went and got a nylon screw and nut and created my own mechanism to open the window. Worked great, but now the window latch catches some of the time when closing, but most of the time it does not. I sprayed some WD40 on the latch portion and it seemed to work pretty well, but still had trouble catching to keep the window closed. I then started my vehicle and then the mechanism popped itself and the battery went ka-put!!!

    Not exactly sure what I may have done wrong...I was so proud of my handiwork! It got too late and so I figured I would see if it starts in the morning. There is a clicking noise when I start the car so I may have drained the battery? Or maybe for some reason the hatch is not thinking it is closed and something is messing up the electrical system. Not to offend anyone, but I hate vehicular problems! I guess tomorrow I will try and jump the vehicle and see if the hatch pops itself again, I may have to take it into the dealer since something may be draining the battery (not sure what) unless someone can provide some suggestions.

    Thanks for all your help and responses, I wouldn't have gotten as far as I did without your posts, they were a huge help...stay tuned!!!!
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    The world awaits your pics.... ;)
  • pherpinpherpin Member Posts: 1
    Hopefully someone will be able to help with this problem. Recently my my 98 blazer started having problems. Whenever I am driving, I can hear the turn signal clicking, even though the turn signal is not on. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • dowkujodowkujo Member Posts: 2
    There's been some question about the top secret access hole that might let you open the glass/hatch manually without having the break out a B.F.H. If you look in the owner's manual you will find a paragraph talking about this hole. It's labeled as a emergency release access hole and it's located behind the carpet of the tail gate, on the top side (when closed) and in the center. You have to pull the carpet away from the tail gate to see it.

    I tried this and did find the hole. With a flash light I was able to see the "workings" of the latch and manually operate the electic lock actuator. You'll get the same results when you push the button on the outside of the tail gate or the appropriate button on the key fob........ lot's of noise but no worky.

    Some say you can use a bent rod of some kind and "fish" for the broken part of the latch. I'm no fisherman. Couldn't make it work. Some say you can pull the plastic panel back from the tail gate at the top to gain just enough access to manually open it. Well, it happened to be 103 degrees OUTSIDE that day and was about 130 inside the Blazer when I lost what was left of my temper and pulled a bit to much and made plastic go crack!! My compliments to those who had the patience to take it easy.

    Hope this extra bit of info helps someone else "Stick it to the Man!!"
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Sorry they have so search on multifunction switch - its in the steering column and may be shorting so you hear the flasher relay behind the glove box. Try replacing the relay thats clicking first - left side of glove box put your hand in there and gently bend the corner of the glove box down and it will drop open to access behind it.
  • jimmygirljimmygirl Member Posts: 1
    I have no idea which one of the following tricks worked, but I wanted to pass this note along in reference to the problems folks have discussed about the Jimmy/Blazer rear door/window latch.
    After having my 2000 Jimmy's rear window button jam in the pushed-in position this morning (I work in a secure building where the guards have to search our cars each day and the guard must have used a little too much umph in pushing in the button), I crawled inside and worked the inside latch on the door a few times. I also used the heel of my hand to pound all around the button on the outside. None of this worked, so I called my local dealership. They confirmed that this is a common problem, and suggested that I pound around the outside to jiggle everything back into place (I love them, and their practical advice!). When I went back to my Jimmy this afternoon to see if I could try one of the solutions posted on this website, or the pounding-jiggling trick, I was delighted to find that the button had popped out on its own.
    So, I am passing this along to those who, like me, might have rushed off to the dealership or to a toolbox to fix this ... try pounding around the area from the outside and then let it sit for a little while. Of course, none of this fixed the problem that I've had for most of the six years I've owned the Jimmy: the remote key fob doesn't unlock the rear door/window.
  • softtailsofttail Member Posts: 11
    No longer had the owners manual for my 2002 ZR2. Below is a link where it can be downloaded. You'll need adobe 7.0.something. Look for 2.16. You'll find the solution there. No need to break anything. :) Thanks for all the feedback.

  • crazdtowcrazdtow Member Posts: 1
    I tried to defrost my windows this morning for about 15 minutes before I realized that it was only blowing freezing cold air. Then I switched it to the heater and it was still just freezing. Any suggestions on where to start with the issue? Maybe something I could try at home before lugging it back into the shop?? Anything? The mornings are freezing now!
    Thanks! :mad:
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    if the temp gage is normal at 190-200 then not a stuck open thermostat but could be the fun clogged heater core. Have you changed the dex cool ever - so if temp is OK then but 3' of 5/8 and 3/4 heater hose. Open hood and place a rag and plastic bag to cover the dist and plug wires and then disconnect the 2 heater hoses at the firewall and hold them up so coolant lose is min. Attach the 2 pieces you just got and with a garden hose flush the heater core in both directions till it runs freely - just hold the garden hose to the heater hose with your hand so you do not blow the core out (small radiator in there and they are a piece of junk). After clean reattach the originals run and refill water and you should have heat.
    This assumes the controls move so make sure the vac line 5/32" under the hood on the drivers side, intake to reservior, is not rotted out and it Ts off to a plastic line to the controls. Good luck and its 90 here!!
  • soulesoule Member Posts: 1
    problem is when you drill the hole out before the broken part it bottoms or tops out in the slot on the bracket that opens the window. you have to extend the arm out about 1/2" with 2 pieces of plastic, sloted to the center rise on the part that's left on the motor assy. when glue is dry add a piece of plastic between the 2 plastic parts you added. when dry i bored a 1/4" whole about 1/4" from the end of the broken part and added a 1/4" nylon rod in the hole and glued ( all with instant glue ). leave about 3/8" above the sloted hole in the window slide bracket and you should be good to go. my 2002 blazer broke about a year ago and after the fix so far so good. ron
  • e5husmce5husmc Member Posts: 6
    I have a 98 Jimmy had the same problem. The problem is in the turn signal switch, small particles of metal (from the contact points) get mixed with the di-electric grease. You can either buy a new switch or remove the old switch and take it apart, clean-out the old grease then apply new di-electric grease. According to the repair manuals you have to pull the stearing wheel but I managed to remove steering column cover without removing the wheel just be careful.
  • david565david565 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 98 Blazer with the same problem. It started with the clicking behind the glove box, then the cruise control stopped working, and now the windshield wiper works only when it wants to. Does it sound like cleaning out the di-electric grease and replacing it will fix these problems, or do you think I need to get a new switch? Is replacing the grease complicated?
  • morgan13morgan13 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Blazer, suddenly the speedometer/gauge lights, radio display light and compass/thermometer light are not working. Also, when I turn off the car and leave the headlight switch on, the audible notifier that your lights have been left on, does not make noise. I have tried the dimmer switch and is not helping...the light behind displaying what gear I am in, the tachometer and the 2WD indicator lights are the only ones that do work...any suggestions?
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Member Posts: 29
    Sounds like a fuse. Open the drivers side door, and pull the panel off at the lower dash (push and turn knob). On the back side is a fuse map. Check for Inst pnl (instrument panel) and replace with the same size spade type fuse (should be spares attached to the cover).
  • morgan13morgan13 Member Posts: 2
    It cut in and out a few times which leads me to believe it isn't a fuse, but I will certainly take a look and appreciate your advice. I looked at the fuse panel layout in the owner's manual when it happened and the instruments that are out seem to be on several different fuses, but again, I will take a look.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I would suspect the headlight switch assembly - its about $55 and after you pull the dash bezel off (center screw above gauges into dash top, recall 2 on the lower trim under steering wheel , then bezel snaps out and you change the switch by unscrewing 4 more screws) but watch out you do NOT break the hazard switch on top of the steering column when you remove the bezel! The dimmer section is a rheostat with a heat sink and they fail and then it has the auto headlight on/off feature in it too. Most auto stores carry these in stock.
  • e5husmce5husmc Member Posts: 6
    Taking the switch out isn't hard as long as are careful, taking the switch apart isn't too bad but can be fun to put back together. Look at this way, you can try to fix the switch first, worst-case you will need to buy a new switch.
  • dolphin1dolphin1 Member Posts: 11
    My 2000 Blazer started making an electrical whinning noise which corresponded to the rpm. Soon after the noise started, my original alternator died. I replaced it with a NAPA reman, and it worked fine for 3 days. On the forth day, it too died. I brought it back and got another one. After installing the second reman, the electrical winning sound returned and the voltage is fluctuating from 12.8~14.0 depending on the rpm. I have also recently replaced my battery with an Optima yellow top. Am I looking at some sort of short. Help!!
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