I replaced the turn signal lever (aka master control switch)(aka multi function switch) today. I did not have to remove the steering wheel. It took about two hours with me working at a snails pace. I could not get any Chevy dealer to honor the recently expired recall for the $200.00 part. I refused to pay an additonal $200.00 labor to have it installed. I now have both turn signals, hazards, the truck now turns off with the key removed, it doesn't run on anymore with my foot on the brake pedal with key removed, and most functions returned to normal. I got it on Ebay from thepartslady for only $110 including shipping. It is the original GM replacement for the recalled item. The fuel gauge is still bouncing around like it has lost its mind, though. Especially when the air compressor kicks in. Any thoughts?
I just saw on ebay a fuel level sensor sending unit that states it wil stop the jumping. It is $27.00 with shipping. I am going to purchase one. They are located here in my city. I will let you know if this solves the wild fuel gauge issue.
will the vehicle start if you start it with the hazards flashing? will the vehicle start with your foot on the brake pedal? My only to starting point guesses because I assume you have a fully charged battery.........
I had that problem do to water entering the window due to weather stripping leak which had been going on for sometime before I bought the vehicle. I took out the control panel on the door. Detached the individual control pods and cleaned the contact points (the gold round shiny things). I used electrical contact cleaner from advanced auto. It costed $3.00 a can and a stiff hair brush. Only a few sprays are needed. I got them all to work except the top one for my power mirrors. I can't get the left right movement, only up and down.
I checked my fuses and they are fine. The battery is two weeks old and has been load tested and is in fine working order. I have gotten it started three or four times, but it is intermittent. When it does start it runs fine other then the dash lights and gauges blinking and going up and down. I am thinking it maybe the ignition switch located in the steering column. I am going to re-check my battery cables, and I am going to test the starter/solenoid the way it says in the chiltons book. I dont know if there is any way to check the ignition switch?
I unhooked the positive from my battery to see if the alternator was bad and the car was still running, but when I opened the door it just shut off, any suggestions.
Well I tested the starter and apparently there was a short or something causing the power loss. I removed starter and installed a new one. Everything is working fine for now.
Hi! Some time ago the rear gate switch was replaced by dealer because it opened all by itself and blew the TBC (Truck Body Computer) fuse. Problem seemed solved until one day while I was washing the vehicle and sprayed water under the passenger side front wheel pocket it started cranking all by itself. I had the ignition key in my pocket. I rushed to my tool box and was able to disconnect the battery. The TBC fuse blew again. Next day I replaced the fuse, reconnected the battery and it worked OK. However it happens that if I'm going to wash it I have to remove the TBC fuse with the truck running, turn off the motor, wash the truck and after it is dry replace the fuse. Help me please!!!
The water shorted the starter solenoid, which is mounted to the started just inside the right front wheel well. Take a look at the starter and see if a shroud or wiring is loose. A direct shot of water shouldn't engage the starter.
My wife has a 1992 Jimmy and is not getting fuel. I wanted to check the fuse for the fuel pump before I went any futher but her fuse panel has lost the markings on it. Can anyone tell me whitch fuse is for the fuel pump.
I just bought this 97 Blazer LT, 108,000 miles. The dealer has agreed to get the door locks and power seats working. I popped the fuse panel cover (opened the drivers door and saw it on the side of the dash) and saw the relay/fuse was missing. Dealer put one in and it pops immediately. I also noticed that the wipers do not work after the truck sits over night. After it's run for a while the wipers work just fine (possible drain on batt.). I had the alternator and battery checked and they were fine. I suspect these issues are all related to one electrical problem. Any thought's/suggestions on where to start?
Good link for the clip repair. My problem is related but different. I believe the rear window actuator is fried on my '98 Blazer. I had to remove the fuse to keep the actuator from continually operating. The rear window would pop open while driving or while parked without a button or keyfob being pushed! Can anyone confirm or advise? Where does one get a rear window actuator? I think I read somewhere that the door lock actuator and rear window actuator are the same part number?
Sounds more like the tailgate window switch is shorting, causing the solenoid to fire. Typical failure mode on a solenoid is to not operate. Seems somewhere in this forum mention was made of dirt getting into the tailgate switch and not letting it fully release, causing intermittent window release. Then again, it could just be the voices in my head trying to confuse me...
I have a 1997 Jimmy with about 100K on it. This happened once before but I was able to get it running to drive it home. When you turn the key on the fuel gauge will work, pump will come on, then nothing. Sometimes it will stop mid-pump and try to kick on again, sometimes it will finish and then nothing. The fuel gauge drops down all the way to the right, flat, past full like the sending unit is not getting power, truck turns over but won't fire. If I try it again, the pump does not come on at all, gauge remains flat. If I try again in a couple hours it will go through the above things again. Lately, sometimes when this happens the speedo will jump quickly up and down a couple of times then stop. The other gauges seem to be working. Sounds like a short someplace? I swapped Relays around, fuses looked ok. I hope it's not the pump.
Thanks for your insight, Jeff. Sounds logical that it's the switch...only problem is, where is the switch? Is this the key fob button, the dash board button or is it in the release/latch mechanism in the rear door? Are you able to describe what it looks like? Thanks again!
Well, the garage traced the short to the wiring for the lumbar motor. Once they disconnected the lumbar motor everything started to work again. I see in other posts that someone else identified this as a problem. There must be a pinch point in there somewhere. I have been trying to find a part number for that lumbar assembly but gmpartsdirect.com catalog is down for the time being. Does anyone have a part number for the lumbar assembly. I guess I should replace it cause the wifey will be on me to get it fixed. Thanks.
Well, the garage traced the short to the wiring for the lumbar motor. Once they disconnected the lumbar motor everything started to work again. I see in other posts that someone else identified this as a problem. There must be a pinch point in there somewhere. I have been trying to find a part number for that lumbar assembly but gmpartsdirect.com catalog is down for the time being. Does anyone have a part number for the lumbar assembly. I guess I should replace it cause the wifey will be on me to get it fixed. Thanks.
The switch is in the hatch and is activated by the pushbutton below the window. One trick is to push the button in all the way and use a shop vac or air source to make sure there isn't dirt that is keeping the button from fully releasing, thereby activating the switch intermittently.
Thanks! I'll check this out today and let you know. When I think back to when the problem started I had the leftgate in the open position and left it open during a thunderstorm. It was partially backed into a garage but I'm sure the pushbutton got soaked because of the position. So, between the rain and whatever dirt got washed into the switch I'll bet your suggestion probably right. It's hopefully just dirt in the contacts that I can clean out with compressed air or by taking apart and cleaning. More later!
Fixed it! I took the interior plastic panel off the liftgate to get full access to the hardware. I removed the switch assembly and took it apart. Surprise! The switch is NOT really water or dirt proof. The plastic housing is recessed inside the door but can still be exposed to the elements especially when the liftgate is in the open position. I cleaned out the crud on the switch contacts and used a waterproof grease to lube it. I reassembled and she works like as new! While I had access to all the linkages for the door lock I cleaned and lubricated all the cheap plastic pieces and levers to hopefully prevent the problem others have experienced. Like a rock...yeah, right!
I fixed the part...didn't need to buy anything. I took the pushbutton/lock assembly out and disassembled the switch, cleaned the contacts and reassembled it. This cured the short in the circuit. Originally I had thought the actuator was bad, and that would have required a trip to the parts store. I've found over the years that some electronic components can be disassembled and repaired. A year or two ago the intermittant wipers weren't working. I took apart the housing on the wiper motor and found the contacts had much too much grease on them. I cleaned off the gunk and lightly lubricated them...and everything works fine. Every once in a great while it's really something quite simple...but I usually fear the worst!
I see Many many blazer's with Electrical issues hope i didn't make a mistake ..
Mine is a 1997 100,007 miles LT - Pretty much fully loaded ... Electrical Seats and windows and such ...
Started out Door lock and power Seat relay Pops .. Haven't found that short yet but have a few more hint here .. and "MAY" be related .....
Here's My SERIOUS issue ... Wife brought the truck home ... threw the keys at me and said the Air dosent work again (FLORIDA COLOR = BLACK - Imagine my problems) Ok ... So I get in the next day ... it's not only dosent have air .. the Day time driving lights are out, the Dash and all the gages are out .. no SPEEDO , No TACH (Not Digital) and cant trust the Amp and gas gage --- And When I turn on the lights the head light Buzzer stays on .....
OK I deal with all that on the way to work ... On the way home ... head light Dim, wipers move slower and slower ... until POOF .. nothing - I was driving on the battery ...
GET get it home through several jumps and figure Alternator Right ? I put a meter to the back nut on the alt and got 11.3, 11.2, 11.1 .... it was crashing fast ... took it off and ran to my friendly Auto parts man who tested it twice -- trust me if he could sell me one he would but it was good !! Battery holds a charge and is about 6 months old ....
I am Pretty Handy when it comes to cars ... so if someone can give a hint on what next or may have had this issue ... PLEASE let me know .... A RELAY ? Some Typical Problem Connector ??
THANKS DAVE !!
PS ... also thought the Circuit breaker issue with the seats and locks was an issue in the seat .. but when disconnected Seat --- Circuit breaker Still got damm near red hot and popped ... So Still hunting down that one .. )
HI there & do you have pictures? I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and have the same problem but we did get the back window to open and took screws from the panel and it does look like part of the blue tab is broken...but when we put a tie throught the blue plastic and put the other end through the medal piece - it would open the liftgate window but it wouldn's close...I wonder if we put the tie in the wrong place....do you have suggestions?
I got in the back and pulled back the plastic panel and you can barely see a gold , metal piece & I put my finger behind that & pushed down & that opened the window...now we're trying to figure out how ot fix with a tie or should we just buy a new actuator..
I pulled back the plastic panel - got in the back seat & pulled it back - is hard to do but I did it and than you see a gold medal piece & I put my finger behind that & pushed down on a lever & presto - it opens the window...Now we're trying to figure out how to fix the blue piece on the actuator with a tie or should we jsut try to buy a new actuator?
Did you get this fixed? I have a 2000 Blazer and pulled on the plastic panel in the back & did get the window open by putting my finger behind the gold medal piece & pushing down and that opened the window....now do you know if we put a tab in the blue plastic tab or the rubber part behind that??
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and have the panel opened - do you have pictures on how we fix with a tie or should I order a part - guess the actuator for this??
If you have pictures or a web site will you send to me?
More findings ... GETTING CLOSER but not home YET !!!
Also Late last night after reading a very similar issue in A/F ..... I found a Fuse for the Gauges/inst Blown .... 10 A ..........I placed another 10 A in and when I turned the key to the prestart position all dash gages and warning lights worked ... but when i fired the up the engine .. Poof Popped again ... Went to a 25 A fuse just to see if i can buy my self some time and All systems stayed functional - all dash systems worked ... AC back on ... 4x4 switch worked ... and Driving lights ...and most of all the Alt was once again Putting out about 13.8 V --- I know this is a NO NO !! So I sent back and went up only one notch to a 15A fuse and it also worked ... this will buy some time to research the circuit and understand what the fuse feeds and track down any possible short ... AMAZING what this little 10A fuse feeds though ... sounds like the problem could be anywhere !!!
So if this add any help ... I still need help understanding it all .... this 97 is a wiring nightmare ..... Looks like GM Engineer's had a ball covering and taping wires under the hood ..
Thanks ALL Dave :P
Thanks all for the hints ... this isn't an exact science for sure .. I will POKE around with it this week and really tear into it this weekend again ... I have a Few more IDEA's as well ... Known friend of previous owner was a Delphi engineer ... Changed the Ignition switch .... Hmmmm !! Both Mirrors have been replaced (something is Pinched somewhere) ... Seemed the previous owner's garage was too narrow ..(2 Car wide) and the thought that something that little ol 10 amp Fuse feeds is the culprat ... I will get a Wiring diagram and do some studying ......... Will be sure to document what the issue was !! as well as the Power seat and Lock situation ... May all be related somehow ... Right now I don't see any smoldering wires with the 15 amp fuse in the home of the 10A Gage/inst
So I am on the road but cautious and watching closely ........ I will check into the Warranties ...... gotta love any FREE parts ....
The blue piece you can special order at O'riellys, I had to be diligent and patient as they looked it up...Don't let them tell you it is a OEM part and you have to go to a dealership to get it all the dealerships I went to tried to tell me I had to buy the whole actuator assembly well their WRONG. This is a Dorman Part#42426 cost:$2.93 plus$5.00 shipping and probably some tax.
Single mom with Jimmy in shop for over a week racking up the BILL! Please Help! I have had my Jimmy for 2 years and from the day I bought it I have had problems. The battery keeps getting drained from something. I have it in the shop right now to have the remote starter removed only to find out the sending unit and fuel pump need replaced. I assume because the thing starts on it's own all the time. My fuel gage has always done the bouncing thing so I have never been able to tell how much fuel I have. I see that may have to do with the sending unit? The problem I have now after taking the remote starter off the key is still stuck in the ignition and won't come out of park. I think this might be part of the theft deterant devise not sure. Also when you take the cable off battery the cable somehow still has spark and the engine turns over. Can someone please tell me what the problem might be? I think that the theft device is keeping the key in therefore draining the battery...and not allowing it to fire once the battery is charged again, but don't know how to stop it
Most of the time after starting my 97 Blazer the ABS light will stay on. Sometimes even the red Brake light will stay on also. While this light is on the power windows,cruise control and heater blower motor will not work. normally you can get the light to go out by shutting of the engine and re-starting it. sometimes the light will come back on again. anyway, when the light is not on, everything works fine. any ideas what might be causing this?
I have a 99 gmc jimmy with 135k on it. i have done a bunch of work on it. altanator = $120 fuel pump = $500 water pump = $75 LF and RF hubs = $150ea Smog pump = $450 Door pins = $50ea and regular maitnence of course...
repairs seem to be more cost effective then buying a new car, so....
My latest problem is the headlights, parking lights and all the interior lights pulsate all at the same time and dim in and out while im driving. its kind of hypnotic. anyway, the altinator is only a year old. so im wondering if this is a result of a bad voltage regulator. i was under the impression that the voltage regulator was an internal component of the altinator. therefore it has been replaced.
is there a external voltage regulator that can be replaced or am i on the wrong path all togeather here?
The voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. The problem you are describing would indicate a bad regulator. I assume the car is starting okay?
If you have an analog voltmeter (needle movement instead of lcd) you can probably see the voltage swing at idle. Turning on all the lights will put the regulator under a load and magnify the problem.
If you have a warranty on the alternator, take it back.
I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer with over 140,000 miles on it. When the vehicle is turned off and I put my foot on the brake pedal, the following happens: the interior and exterior lights come on, the dash lights come on, the indicator lights come on, and the radio plays. In addition, my right turn signal will not blink...the left one does. (I checked the bulbs...they're o.k.) Also, my brake lights are on constantly. Hummmm??? Any suggestions???
My girlfriend's 2001 Blazer has had a problem for a few years now where it won't start right away. It turns over but won't fire. It usually does start after 5 or 6 tries. The strange part is that when you crank it over the power door locks go up and down. Any thoughts on what is going on here?
Ok so my problem is that when I turn my headlamps and gauge lights on, my stereo deck//head-unit turns off, so after re-wiring my aftermarket deck, and I checked my wiring I don't know how many times, but for some reason my horn and interior lamp doesn't work any more either, I have checked all my fuses and such but I have also asked around on a few other forums some people said my ground would be the problem, but I doubt that because the deck still turns on, and others said it could be the alternator.
Comments
please see our posts under electrical turn signal problems...
Good luck...
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
That spells "short circuit!" The dealer should be able to track that down for you.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My problem is related but different. I believe the rear window actuator is fried on my '98 Blazer. I had to remove the fuse to keep the actuator from continually operating. The rear window would pop open while driving or while parked without a button or keyfob being pushed! Can anyone confirm or advise? Where does one get a rear window actuator? I think I read somewhere that the door lock actuator and rear window actuator are the same part number?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks again!
While I had access to all the linkages for the door lock I cleaned and lubricated all the cheap plastic pieces and levers to hopefully prevent the problem others have experienced.
Like a rock...yeah, right!
Glad you got it working.
Jim
Thanks again for all your help! I really appreciate your assistance.
I've found over the years that some electronic components can be disassembled and repaired. A year or two ago the intermittant wipers weren't working. I took apart the housing on the wiper motor and found the contacts had much too much grease on them. I cleaned off the gunk and lightly lubricated them...and everything works fine. Every once in a great while it's really something quite simple...but I usually fear the worst!
Mine is a 1997 100,007 miles LT - Pretty much fully loaded ... Electrical Seats and windows and such ...
Started out Door lock and power Seat relay Pops .. Haven't found that short yet but have a few more hint here .. and "MAY" be related .....
Here's My SERIOUS issue ... Wife brought the truck home ... threw the keys at me and said the Air dosent work again (FLORIDA COLOR = BLACK - Imagine my problems) Ok ... So I get in the next day ... it's not only dosent have air .. the Day time driving lights are out, the Dash and all the gages are out .. no SPEEDO , No TACH (Not Digital) and cant trust the Amp and gas gage --- And When I turn on the lights the head light Buzzer stays on .....
OK I deal with all that on the way to work ... On the way home ... head light Dim, wipers move slower and slower ... until POOF .. nothing - I was driving on the battery ...
GET get it home through several jumps and figure Alternator Right ? I put a meter to the back nut on the alt and got 11.3, 11.2, 11.1 .... it was crashing fast ... took it off and ran to my friendly Auto parts man who tested it twice -- trust me if he could sell me one he would but it was good !! Battery holds a charge and is about 6 months old ....
I am Pretty Handy when it comes to cars ... so if someone can give a hint on what next or may have had this issue ... PLEASE let me know .... A RELAY ? Some Typical Problem Connector ??
THANKS
DAVE !!
PS ... also thought the Circuit breaker issue with the seats and locks was an issue in the seat .. but when disconnected Seat --- Circuit breaker Still got damm near red hot and popped ... So Still hunting down that one ..
HELP !! Car in garage .......... !!!
If you have pictures or a web site will you send to me?
Also Late last night after reading a very similar issue in A/F ..... I found a Fuse for the Gauges/inst Blown .... 10 A ..........I placed another 10 A in and when I turned the key to the prestart position all dash gages and warning lights worked ... but when i fired the up the engine .. Poof Popped again ... Went to a 25 A fuse just to see if i can buy my self some time and All systems stayed functional - all dash systems worked ... AC back on ... 4x4 switch worked ... and Driving lights ...and most of all the Alt was once again Putting out about 13.8 V --- I know this is a NO NO !! So I sent back and went up only one notch to a 15A fuse and it also worked ... this will buy some time to research the circuit and understand what the fuse feeds and track down any possible short ... AMAZING what this little 10A fuse feeds though ... sounds like the problem could be anywhere !!!
So if this add any help ... I still need help understanding it all .... this 97 is a wiring nightmare ..... Looks like GM Engineer's had a ball covering and taping wires under the hood ..
Thanks ALL
Dave :P
Thanks all for the hints ... this isn't an exact science for sure .. I will POKE around with it this week and really tear into it this weekend again ... I have a Few more IDEA's as well ... Known friend of previous owner was a Delphi engineer ... Changed the Ignition switch .... Hmmmm !! Both Mirrors have been replaced (something is Pinched somewhere) ... Seemed the previous owner's garage was too narrow ..(2 Car wide) and the thought that something that little ol 10 amp Fuse feeds is the culprat ... I will get a Wiring diagram and do some studying ......... Will be sure to document what the issue was !! as well as the Power seat and Lock situation ... May all be related somehow ... Right now I don't see any smoldering wires with the 15 amp fuse in the home of the 10A Gage/inst
So I am on the road but cautious and watching closely ........ I will check into the Warranties ...... gotta love any FREE parts ....
Thanks again and Will let ya know
Dave
Any suggestions on getting the panel pulled back having problem with 2000.
altanator = $120
fuel pump = $500
water pump = $75
LF and RF hubs = $150ea
Smog pump = $450
Door pins = $50ea
and regular maitnence of course...
repairs seem to be more cost effective then buying a new car, so....
My latest problem is the headlights, parking lights and all the interior lights pulsate all at the same time and dim in and out while im driving. its kind of hypnotic. anyway, the altinator is only a year old. so im wondering if this is a result of a bad voltage regulator. i was under the impression that the voltage regulator was an internal component of the altinator. therefore it has been replaced.
is there a external voltage regulator that can be replaced or am i on the wrong path all togeather here?
If you have an analog voltmeter (needle movement instead of lcd) you can probably see the voltage swing at idle. Turning on all the lights will put the regulator under a load and magnify the problem.
If you have a warranty on the alternator, take it back.
stereo deck//head-unit turns off, so after re-wiring my aftermarket deck, and I checked
my wiring I don't know how many times, but for some reason my horn and interior lamp
doesn't work any more either, I have checked all my fuses and such but I have also
asked around on a few other forums some people said my ground would be the problem, but I doubt that because the deck still turns on, and others said it could be the alternator.
Anyone have an idea????
Thanks In Advance.