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please see our posts under electrical turn signal problems...
Good luck...
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
That spells "short circuit!" The dealer should be able to track that down for you.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
My problem is related but different. I believe the rear window actuator is fried on my '98 Blazer. I had to remove the fuse to keep the actuator from continually operating. The rear window would pop open while driving or while parked without a button or keyfob being pushed! Can anyone confirm or advise? Where does one get a rear window actuator? I think I read somewhere that the door lock actuator and rear window actuator are the same part number?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks again!
While I had access to all the linkages for the door lock I cleaned and lubricated all the cheap plastic pieces and levers to hopefully prevent the problem others have experienced.
Like a rock...yeah, right!
Glad you got it working.
Jim
Thanks again for all your help! I really appreciate your assistance.
I've found over the years that some electronic components can be disassembled and repaired. A year or two ago the intermittant wipers weren't working. I took apart the housing on the wiper motor and found the contacts had much too much grease on them. I cleaned off the gunk and lightly lubricated them...and everything works fine. Every once in a great while it's really something quite simple...but I usually fear the worst!
Mine is a 1997 100,007 miles LT - Pretty much fully loaded ... Electrical Seats and windows and such ...
Started out Door lock and power Seat relay Pops .. Haven't found that short yet but have a few more hint here .. and "MAY" be related .....
Here's My SERIOUS issue ... Wife brought the truck home ... threw the keys at me and said the Air dosent work again (FLORIDA COLOR = BLACK - Imagine my problems) Ok ... So I get in the next day ... it's not only dosent have air .. the Day time driving lights are out, the Dash and all the gages are out .. no SPEEDO , No TACH (Not Digital) and cant trust the Amp and gas gage --- And When I turn on the lights the head light Buzzer stays on .....
OK I deal with all that on the way to work ... On the way home ... head light Dim, wipers move slower and slower ... until POOF .. nothing - I was driving on the battery ...
GET get it home through several jumps and figure Alternator Right ? I put a meter to the back nut on the alt and got 11.3, 11.2, 11.1 .... it was crashing fast ... took it off and ran to my friendly Auto parts man who tested it twice -- trust me if he could sell me one he would but it was good !! Battery holds a charge and is about 6 months old ....
I am Pretty Handy when it comes to cars ... so if someone can give a hint on what next or may have had this issue ... PLEASE let me know .... A RELAY ? Some Typical Problem Connector ??
THANKS
DAVE !!
PS ... also thought the Circuit breaker issue with the seats and locks was an issue in the seat .. but when disconnected Seat --- Circuit breaker Still got damm near red hot and popped ... So Still hunting down that one .. )
HELP !! Car in garage .......... !!!
If you have pictures or a web site will you send to me?
Also Late last night after reading a very similar issue in A/F ..... I found a Fuse for the Gauges/inst Blown .... 10 A ..........I placed another 10 A in and when I turned the key to the prestart position all dash gages and warning lights worked ... but when i fired the up the engine .. Poof Popped again ... Went to a 25 A fuse just to see if i can buy my self some time and All systems stayed functional - all dash systems worked ... AC back on ... 4x4 switch worked ... and Driving lights ...and most of all the Alt was once again Putting out about 13.8 V --- I know this is a NO NO !! So I sent back and went up only one notch to a 15A fuse and it also worked ... this will buy some time to research the circuit and understand what the fuse feeds and track down any possible short ... AMAZING what this little 10A fuse feeds though ... sounds like the problem could be anywhere !!!
So if this add any help ... I still need help understanding it all .... this 97 is a wiring nightmare ..... Looks like GM Engineer's had a ball covering and taping wires under the hood ..
Thanks ALL
Dave :P
Thanks all for the hints ... this isn't an exact science for sure .. I will POKE around with it this week and really tear into it this weekend again ... I have a Few more IDEA's as well ... Known friend of previous owner was a Delphi engineer ... Changed the Ignition switch .... Hmmmm !! Both Mirrors have been replaced (something is Pinched somewhere) ... Seemed the previous owner's garage was too narrow ..(2 Car wide) and the thought that something that little ol 10 amp Fuse feeds is the culprat ... I will get a Wiring diagram and do some studying ......... Will be sure to document what the issue was !! as well as the Power seat and Lock situation ... May all be related somehow ... Right now I don't see any smoldering wires with the 15 amp fuse in the home of the 10A Gage/inst
So I am on the road but cautious and watching closely ........ I will check into the Warranties ...... gotta love any FREE parts ....
Thanks again and Will let ya know
Dave
Any suggestions on getting the panel pulled back having problem with 2000.
altanator = $120
fuel pump = $500
water pump = $75
LF and RF hubs = $150ea
Smog pump = $450
Door pins = $50ea
and regular maitnence of course...
repairs seem to be more cost effective then buying a new car, so....
My latest problem is the headlights, parking lights and all the interior lights pulsate all at the same time and dim in and out while im driving. its kind of hypnotic. anyway, the altinator is only a year old. so im wondering if this is a result of a bad voltage regulator. i was under the impression that the voltage regulator was an internal component of the altinator. therefore it has been replaced.
is there a external voltage regulator that can be replaced or am i on the wrong path all togeather here?
If you have an analog voltmeter (needle movement instead of lcd) you can probably see the voltage swing at idle. Turning on all the lights will put the regulator under a load and magnify the problem.
If you have a warranty on the alternator, take it back.
stereo deck//head-unit turns off, so after re-wiring my aftermarket deck, and I checked
my wiring I don't know how many times, but for some reason my horn and interior lamp
doesn't work any more either, I have checked all my fuses and such but I have also
asked around on a few other forums some people said my ground would be the problem, but I doubt that because the deck still turns on, and others said it could be the alternator.
Anyone have an idea????
Thanks In Advance.