Longest Lasting Car On The Road

eneth

Not necessarily - though if you have a 4-speed automatic transaxle that's all-original, not rebuilt or replaced, call the Guinness Book of World Records - that is one for the history books.

Mr_Shiftright

220K on an original Chrysler tranny...forget Guinness...bring the sick to your van to be cured!

eneth

If it's a 3-speed Torqueflite, maybe not quite a record - that has a reputation for being a decent transaxle.

If it's a 4-speed 41TE, it really is a record, and a miracle if it's all original - 50-60,000 miles and those are usually ready for the scrap pile or a rebuild (if you get that far - our first one died at just under 18,000 miles).

andre1969

I'm pretty sure that by 1994, the Torqueflite was history, and I doubt if it made it into any FWD vechicles.

I've had two cars with Torqueflite 904's that have been rebuilt. The first was in a '68 Dodge Dart with a 318. The guy that had it before me had the engine rebuilt at around 240K or so. When they rebuilt it, I think he had some high performance parts put in...whatever he did, he had about $4,000 in receipts to show for it. Well, all that added power from the rebuild didn't to the old TF or the 7.25 rear end any good...shredded them both fairly quickly. So he threw in a used tranny and rear end from a junked '69 that a friend of his had sitting in his back yard. Now, at 338K miles, the tranny is still doing fine. This guy also bragged about (and showed me, when he took me out for a spin in it) how you could manually hold first gear up to around 52 mph and then chirp the tires shifting into second. Maybe the increased power from the rebuild wasn't the only factor in that tranny's demise! ;-)

The only other one was a '79 Newport 318 I bought from the junkyard for $250. It needed a new tranny, but also had about 230K miles on it. And this was still just a little 904 in a full-size car. If the 904's were this sturdy, I wonder how bullet-proof the 727's must've been!

-Andre

eneth

The 3-speed automatic FWD transaxle that originated with the Omni/Horizon and later the K-cars, and exists in the Neon more than 20 years later _was_ called a Torqueflite. It was a pretty good unit - probably the only part of my 1981 Omni that didn't require repair or replacement over its lifetime.

I don't know whether this is a Chrysler-U.S. design, but suspect that it is (the rest of the Omni-Horizon wasn't - it was a product of Rootes/Hillman of England and Simca of France, which comprised most of Chrysler Europe at the time - though the first engines hailed from VW).

alcan

The Chrysler 3 speed automatic transaxle has gone through several incarnations: A404, seperate diff. sump, no rear band adjuster; A413, common sump, rear band adjuster, hydraulic control torque converter clutch on some models; A460, computer controlled torque converter clutch. All FWD. All with the registered trademark Torqueflite. All requiring Mopar ATF Plus3 (type 7176) fluid if equipped with torque converter clutch . Now re-designated 31TH.

arjay1

We made it to 59,000 miles on our '96 Town & Country transmission. I didn't realize at the time that we were one of the lucky ones.
Lucky for us, my wife only drives about 10,000 miles a year. So we figure a new transmission, at $2,000, every 5 to 6 years is still less expensive than a car payment.
Regarding high mileage; 1984 Mercedes 300D that went over 225,000 with no engine or transmission work. 1978 Chevy Suburban went over 150,000 before I got rid of it in 1998. When I bought it in 1992 it only had 49,000 miles and not a bit of rust. Only driven in the summers to pull a guys boat on vacation. It sure started to rust quickly once it became my daily driver. But I bought it for $3500 dollars and put over 100,000 miles on it. Only had to put on new tires, a new dual exhaust, a fuel pump and a battery. We then sold it for $2500 when we purchased my wifes van.
That Suburban was the best impulse purchase I ever made. The factory 8-track still worked when we sold it.

iampthead

My 1984 Buick Regal Limited. 3.8l carburated, 3-spd lock out trans. (can't recall the model, but i'm sure someone will) Still in the driveway ready to go with 201,000 miles. All original.
Car was bought in 1986 with 12k miles by my parents who used it as "the good car" until i took it over in 1993 with 76,000 miles. Other than regular "wear items" and tune ups, the only engine work has been a water pump. Had the transmission serviced at around 95k by dealer. Finally wore out an upper control arm bushing and front sway arm bushings somewhere around the 150k mark. Car will still pass E-check just fine, long as it's properly tuned up with a fresh oil change. (Fresh oil is the key to low CO readings.) Oil consumption is (and has been for last 100k or so) about a quart every 3k, but most of that quart leaks past the left valve cover, out the rear main, and the well worn valve guide seals every morning, and that's ok, at 3k miles, it's due for a change anyway.
Body still decent, though the N.E. Ohio winters have really started to take a toll in the last couple years.
I strongly believe that many more people could join this "club" of high-mileage cars by simply following a simple concept called "preventive mainanence". Change the oil, change the filters, keep it tuned up. it'll last as longer than the manufacturer ever planned.

occupant1

I'll start with the highest miles and go from there...

1989 Ford Escort, 4-cylinder, 5-speed, 5-door, bought off an eBay auction for $202.51, had 350K on it, no kidding.

1988 Buick Century, 4-cylinder, automatic, 4-door, bought off another eBay auction for $275.00, had 217K when I bought it, now has 226K and climbing, air still works, original engine and transmission, needed lots of rust work to pass inspection (gas lines, parking brake, etc...) but is my daily driver right now.

1975 Olds Cutlass Supreme, 350, automatic, 4-door, bought from a tire shop mechanic for $100 a couple months before I turned 16. I could see the white smoke from my house when I rode my bike over to see what was the matter with it. IT was burning lots of coolant. I replaced both head gaskets and repaired one crack in one cylinder head. 224K at purchase, 226K at sale.

1989 Plymouth Voyager, 4-cylinder, 5-speed, minivan, bought at a police abandoned auction about a month ago for $325, drives OK but needs a wheel bearing now (thought it was a CV axle but they are fine), 214K at purchase, 216K sitting outside now.

1992 Dodge Dynasty, 3.3V6, automatic, 4-door, bought with 159K, transmission had been installed at 152K, drove to 188K, current owner now has 207K on it (as of yesterday). He fixed the AC which broke the week after I bought the car. That was a $2300 car.

1980 Datsun 210, 4-cylinder, automatic, wagon, bought from a junkyard for $350, had 176K at purchase, sold to a friend who I THOUGHT would take care of it and he ran it into a pole. That white car would've hit 250K easy, it used no oil, ran like a sewing machine, looked like it had half the miles, it was a Budget Rent-A-Car from birth to 18K, second owner took it to the 176K mark, I only got 2,000 out of it, but my friend said it had 185K when he cracked it up.

1992 Buick Century, 4-cylinder, automatic, 4-door, this is my Dad's car that my sister is driving, it had 172K when he gave it to her, several belt tensioners, an alternator, a starter, and not much else. Michelin tires on that one, lasted forever, my Dad had it aligned every other oil change, like the 160K '95 Century he's driving now.

Note...three Buick Centuries, two Chryslers, one mid-seventies rustbucket, one ridiculously high-mileage Escort, and only one import. Hmm...and the import is a rear-drive, live axle, pushrod engine, low tech workhorse Japanese car. The other 210 I had (the yellow one) hit 162K and I don't know how far after that.

freddok

I owned a 1993 Ford Escort LX that racked up a good deal of highway miles. Bought new in early 1994, it was traded in for a Pontiac in July of 2000 with 147,000 miles on it, and it was still running well save for a bit of hesitation and stalling from an oxygen sensor that probably needed replacement when I traded it. I did a carfax report on it the other day and found it's still running...belongs to an owner in New Jersey and still on the road by all I can guess.

That Escort was my first new car and was the most reliable car I owned. In looking around for a second car to get for my wife (who is about to get her license and will then have her first car) I will probably pick up another 93-94 Escort used for her because she liked it and the one I had ran well.

Freddo K.

ibaforester

I made a similar post on a message board a couple of weeks ago, and have been looking for a message board like this for a long time. I have an 1986 Toyota 4Runner, 4WD 4cyl.22RE Automatic, which I drove daily as a work vehicle. As my name says I am a forester so my vehicle is in the woods and on the backroads on a daily basis as well as on the highway and interstates. I rolled the 4Runner over twice (not the odometer but the truck itself) a couple of months ago. TOTALMILEAGE IS 467,532.
I replaced the engine at 353,000, and only did regular maintaince and very minor repairs. What has amazed me and lots of others is the transmission, no repairs just fluid changes about every 50,000. Changed differential and transfer case fluids every 100,000. I'm meticulous about maintainence and records. My average cost/mile $0.14, total for all expenses including gas, oil, tires, belts, hoses, etc.

qbrozen

That 4Runner example is a good one. Only got 118K on my 87 before noticing the body starting to give way, so I sold it quick.

I'm surprised there haven't been more diesel mercedes owners chiming in here. C'mon. where are those million mile stories?

OK. My father's '87 K5 Blazer 5.7 auto. 280,000+ miles before selling it for $3500 in '95. It did, however, get a new engine at 99,xxx miles (just a few hundred miles before the expiration of the insane extended warranty he purchased - *whew*). But, over 180K on the next engine and never a squeak from the tranny or anything else the entire time.

weepiper

My 1989 Plymouth Voyager 2.5L Turbo has 290,000 miles on it, so far. We blew a headgasket last week, and if the head is ok, we will be driving it for as long as possible. Original engine, tranny, and turbo.....

overthetop

Over 300,000 miles. Original clutch changed at 270,000 miles. Original paint, original engine, even original muffler!

This car is something else. I am the original owner and this thing just won't die. Its runs like brand new.

scooter62

that has 195000; original everything except starter and axle shafts (missed the torn CV boots...). On 5th muffler and 3rd windshield, but I sold my little blue baby 2 weeks ago when I bought a new civic.

riverwolf

Any make/model Chrysler product with a 225 slant six in it. I had a 70 Plymouth Valiant that was finally scrapped at around 270,000 only cause it would not pass new tough smog laws. I now have a Dodge Dart GT (for sale) that is near 300,000. I do not have the money to put into it as it finally needs a major overhaul. This engine has at least nine lives ... they don't make 'em like this anymore.

pks1

look for your self a buddy og mine has a 90 accord lowered with a exhaust. It has 206K miles.
compactcars01.tripod.com
you have to enter and select gallery and look for the accord .
Drives like new

bburton1

No major repairs till a clutch at 200K-also replaced a CV joint at about 150K. Sold it to a relative-still no problems-leaks about 1/2 quart oil at 4K change interval. Body gone.

Have 112K on 97 accord-zero problems-expect this one to last to at least 300K unless a 18 wheeler gets me.

dhughes3

Around 1980 I bought a used '59 Olds 88 for $75. It was barely running; missing very badly. Turned out the cause was a cracked rotor. I drove the car a year and sold it for $175.
In 1996 I bought a Daytona with 58K on it for $3400. Drove it 2 1/2 years and sold it at 95K for $3000, which figures to about 1.08 cents per mile.

Mr_Shiftright

Lessee...just turned 218,000 on my 1980 Benz 300D...car ran great from San Fran across the Nevada desert and up the Rockies to Aspen, a/c on all the way, about 28 mpg. These are tough old cars. Very slow, but well-built. Still have original paintwork and upholstery and even windshield! (Colorado is Windshield Graveyard, so I'm hoping to make it out of here okay!).

mpp2

I had a 1989 dodge daytona bought new. It was a 5 spd. with a 2.5L 4cyl engine. I gave it to my wife's younger brother in May 1994 with 151000 miles on it. Original engine, tranny, clutch. Replaced one timing belt. He drove it to 245000 miles before he got rid of it. It needed a total suspension rebuild, but still had original engine and tranny. It did not leak fluids, And all he replaced when he had it was clutch and radiator.

Just sold my 1994 Dodge spirit last year w/ 147000
miles on original 3.0 V6 and 3spd tranny. Began seeping oil @100000 mi and starter went at 145000 mi. Got tired of oil spots on my garage floor and tried to fix it twice. Bought a Honda Accord so that I can drive a car that will really last a long time! )

sazaman1

I bought my accord 4 cyl new in 1994 and driven it for 240,xxx miles now. Only did the regular manufacturer recommended maintenance myself. changed the timing belt and balancer belt twice, and the water pump along with that. The only thing that had died is the ignition coil at 213,000 mil. Still have the original muffler. No oil burning at all. Have changed oil every 2-3000 miles. Going very strong and I fell I can drive it for another 100,000 miles at least. Would appreciate comments or suggestions from other accord owners how to take it to 500,000 mark.

Rick05

My dad bought this car brand new. Paint was the first thing that went on it. GM offered to repaint it for $100.00 but my dad said it would be a moving billboard for how sorry he thought the paint job was. He used it like a truck. Well the radiator and water pump finally went at 317,000 miles. It looked awful but it still ran good. Replaced the battery once, one oxygen sensor and the spark plugs once. He said it was the best car that ever came out of Detroit and I'll have to agree.

pblevine

hood54

I bought it 1981 for $1000. Replaced more than one speedometer, so I don't know how many miles it had. Had the engine rebuilt in 1986 and in 1999. The car was driven daily for most of the 20 years I owned it. I estimate we easily drove it 200K. Sold it because neither my wife nor I were willing to drive with no AC anymore. South Texas is HOT. We got $1900.

8track

I had the above mentioned Accord all the way up to 210,000 miles on it. I sold it to a kid down the street from me some 4 or 5 years ago. I took a look inside at the odometer it read 350,000+ miles on it! He said all was done was a clutch replacement, a radiator, and the every 60,000 mile timing belt! WOW!

rickslick

was 82 Nissan Stanza XE. My dad was traveling salesman that bought it new. He gave to me my junior year in high school with 118k on the clock in 85. He purchased an 85 Buick Century with the 3.0 v6. I dogged the Stanza but I kept that car until Feb 90 and it had 250k on the clock then. Timing belt brok at 130k and I replaced several cv joints and axle boots. Also had to purchase a engine control module and a/c compressor. The girl who bought this car for $600
drove it for 3 years before being involved in an accident which totaled it. The Buick lasted until 186k mi but it had started to smoke badly and the compressor didn't work but it was dependable and never left us stranded. Dad replaced the Buick with 90 Toyota truck xtra cab v6
bought new and still has. It has over 200k miles but tranny is bad. Since 95 it just sits in his driveway and he hardly ever drives it. 95 he bought 95 t-bird v8 and traded it in 98 with 80k no problem miles for 850 Volvo which he still drives today

raaizin

Bought new in 1989, has 164k and runs great no engine or transmission problems. Just the usual repairs start, waterpump 2x, alternator. Just replaced exhast after about 11 years. Hoping to get 200k, but not sure with the 3.8 ford motor.

theericharris

Currently have 170,200 miles on this car. Still runs pretty good. Still have the original transmission. Replaced 3 alternators (finally got a lifetime guaranteed one). That's about all the major stuff so far. Change oil every 3K miles. The plastic moldings on the outside don't look as sharp as they once did. But overall, been a good car and the engine and transmission show no sign of problems. I bought this in 1994 with 20K miles on it. My wife now drives it, as I just purchased a 1991 Lexus LS400 w/ 80K miles on it.

rcarboni

A co-worker just donated his Pontiac Sunbird to charity with 280,000 miles. He is an EMT, and that car had some hard miles on it.

My longest running was also a Pontiac - '67 GTO 400. I ran it to just about 180,000, but the body/suspension was shot, so a guy bought the engine and put it in a speed boat.

As someone mentioned earlier, Mercedes would seem to be the ultimate in high-mileage vehicles. Who else has a "million-mile club"?

q45man

Personal car [bought new in June 1990] but we have a 403,296 mile 1990 Q45 used as a company car [2nd engine and 3rd trans] we are trying to get to 500,000 miles.
These are not cheap to maintain or repair but around 15 cents per mile can keep one like brand new up to 250,000 miles.
We service at least 8 LS400 with over 250,000 miles abd dozens of Q approaching 200,000 miles.
T3 Automotive SE largest premium independent repair facility

acuraowner

My sisters 1993 Honda Civic EX had 273,000 miles on it in Dec 1999 and was still going strong. Everything is original (even the a/c) just regular maintenance and fixing a few things now and then. The only real problems she had was her gas door latch was rusted and her hood latch is rusted shut. When she fills up with gas she has to have someone help her get the gas door open (she pries with the screwdriver while the helper pulls the release handle). It still started right up on the coldest Minnesota mornings.

The other example is the 1991 Toyota truck I inherited just recently. It has 218k miles on it, it has required minimal maintenance and it still runs great. This truck is the base model, no power steering, no a/c, vinyl seats, 2.4L 4cyl.

ctrowland1

Original owner, change oil myself every 3,000 miles. Replace timing belt and water pump every 80,000 miles. Burns no oil. Runs as good as the first day I drove it home. Great car.

ssliberty

My 1985 diesel just rolled over 375,000 miles. The engine, transmission, and all major mechanicals are all original. All factory recommended service has been performed since day one, along with oil changes every 3000 mi. It uses no oil and runs like a champ. I've been told by my mechanic to possibly expect a trans rebuild at 500k and maybe a top end engine rebuild between 750k and 1 million miles!! I have no reason to believe otherwise. Happy motoring.

espinaldo

I now have over 175,000 on my 1992 Toyota 4WD PU. All maintenance is done by Toyota Dealer. No problems yet.

The unusual thing is that I have original clutch and brakes (5 mm remain on the front and 6 mm on the back). I figured that I would go through the clutch with all of the down shifting but not yet. Around 50-50 freeway and town. The freeway driving is slow-n-go < 25% of the time--the rest of the time I drive 70-75+ mph on the freeway. I am looking to get close to 300k on the original brakes. I have no idea how long the clutch will last.

I initially did a lot of off road (that is completely off road, not just dirt roads)--some mud and a lot of cobbles. Most 4-wheel drive time the last 5 years has been on snow. The main problem I have is a worn seat back on the driver's side where I abrade it every time I get in.

cheech004

i got a 1989 chevy s10 blazer its got 190k miles
on it and going strong. regular oil changes every 3k miles using mobil 1 from the start, this truck has a lot of power left in her so far. And to top it all off still blow the doors off these newer Japanese SUV's. Had 1 problem with engine around 150K miles had to change water pump, tranny never had problems, no slippage as of yet. At 200k miles gonna give it a full tune up and I'm good to go for another 100k miles.

jmmctighe

Had a 79 Olds Cutlass, 305 V8 w/4 bbl went 170k before i sold it for $350. I year later the guy said it was still running strong with 185k.

Also had a 83 Toyota tercel 4WD wagon with the 6 speed stick that went 250k on the original clutch, I kid you not. The body color matched the duct tape the tried to seal the holes. But the floor-boards rotted out and I trade the wagon for.....another one, an 86, same color, no tape. Everyone at work thought I spent my vacation doing body work on the 83!

ed_swansfeger

It is my friend's that he bought new back in 1971 with the reliable slant 6 engine. Total miles is 374,287 as of today 10/17/01. He has replaced both front fenders 5 times due to rust. Routine maintenance with oil being changed every 3k with Quaker State on the engine.

bnosyt

I have a 1978 GMC 1/2 ton pickup w/350, about 250K miles. It has some rust holes, but still runs great.

eharri3

Grandfather's 85 Accord Sedan: Died two years ago finally with 250K.

Aunt's 89 Corolla: Still no problems 150K.

There's an 89 Supra in the family: Twin turbo, both turbos still fully functional, just starting to show its age at 200K. It's had problems, but mainly due to owner error or abuse, such as my uncle inadvertantly putting regular in when it needed synthetic. Now THAT little faux pas caused some expensive damage.

mcrensha1

I knew a guy in school that bought an 86 accord with 236,000k on it. We thought he was nuts, but that was in 1996 and he still has it, running fine, I don't have a clue how many miles he has now, well over 300k I'm sure.

bottgers

Until about two weeks ago, I was driving a '66 Chevy Bel-Air with 308,000 miles on it. The tranny (Powerglide) finally crapped out. The engine still runs strong (250 C.I.). Engine and tranny internals were all original.

It's replacement is an '84 Honda Accord with 170,000 miles on it. This thing runs and drives like a new car! The engine is smooth and quiet, uses no oil, and has no leaks. I think it may just give the Chevy a run for the money!

qmercury

These aren't exactly all cars...

My grandfather has a 1987 Ford F-150 (302 w/ 3 speed auto) that has 311k hard driven city miles, and as far as I know it's still on the origional drivetrain.

My dad's 1994 Explorer Sport has 191k on the with no repairs since he bought it at 140k. He also has an '87 Aerostar, bought at 88k, went through 2 transmissions (pathetic Ford A4LD) until the body came apart at 239k.

My friend had an '88 Honda Prelude 2.0si, bought at 96k in 1990. The car had 278k when we tore it apart to build a racer out of it, and we were stil able to use the factory bottom end and main bearings in a turbo installation.

wishnhigh1

just topped 360,000 miles, original engine, just rebuilt heads and a new exaust manifold.

a_l_hubcaps

My uncle bought a 1986-88 (don't know exact year) Nissan Stanza Van new. After about 9 years, the transmission started acting up and finally the head cracked at 167,000 miles. He gave the car to a friend, who runs a vo-tech school for underpriveleged kids. The auto repair students rebuilt the drivetrain, and the school continued to use the car for transportation. However, the rust eventually caught up with it and some frame member snapped, which basically caused the car to collapse. At this point the school sold what was left of the car for $25. The new owner proceeded to weld supports into the undercarriage to bolster the rusted-out frame, and put the van back on the road. My uncle says he still sees it driving around Rockford, IL, and estimates it has well over 200,000 miles now.
-Andrew L

greekshooter

Ordered my '79 Olds Toronado early in the year. 350 cu in Oldsmobile engine. Great car. Cruise control went at 150K and the power antenna every 50K. Gave it to charity in June 2000 with 236,000 miles. I drove it, my wife drove it, then my daughter and son while in high school and finally my son in college. I got it back early 2000. I did all the oil changes every 3K. Had the transmission rebuilt at about 180K miles at the dealer. Did my own brake jobs (could not afford to take it to the shop after I bought my other cars). Had to have the cv joints replaced quite a few times and steering ball joints replaced at least once. Replaced the water pumps myself. Needed a brake booster and master cylinder near the 180K mark. Finally in June of 2000 the transmission went again, and the engine was making some noises like loose bearings. I drove the '82 Dodge Colt for 17 years. Bought it new put about 206K miles on it. Spent about $2K in repairs at 122K miles. Mainly carburetor problems, also had new brakes, shocks, clutch (expensive) and some other stuff done. The body was pretty much falling apart. Used it as a commuter car. Gave it to charity in 1999. Was able to do rear brakes and replace pads up front, but it had press brakes in the front and I could not do the rotors. It would eat up clutches alot. Had to put three in it and they were expensive to do. The engine started to go at about 185K miles (burning oil and leaking). I currently drive the '85 Dodge B250 Ram Van (318 cu in engine), with 179K miles on it. It always used a qt of oil every 3K miles, now it uses a qt every 1.5K miles. Originally only used for trips with the kids. Then I used it to take them back and forth to college. Changed oil every 3K, myself, did my own brakes. Had problems with the A/C always (had an aftermarket rear A/C added). Converted it to 134 a couple of years ago. Still doesn't work that great. It is a conversion van. Now I use it to commute to work. I had to change the voltage regulator three times, the alternator three times, the power module once and the parking brake once. It really is running rough now especailly at start up. Black smoke and I have to run it for a couple of minutes before I can go. Looks like the valves are leaking. I hope to get to the 200K mile mark. I've changed the rear differential liquid a couple of times and the transmission fluid three times. The U-joints had to be replaced twice. I guess because of hauling the kids junk back and forth from college.I have as a goal to keep all my vehicles for at least 200K miles. I bought the wife a 2000 Chevy Silverado 5.3, 3.73, extended cab, Z71 with all the trimmings. I changed to synthetic at 5K miles. So far I've also switchched the rear differential in the Chevy to Mobil 1 synthetic gear lube and have done one grease job (myself). We have about 12K miles on the truck with no problems. I'll be in the market for a vehicle as soon as the van hits the 200K mile mark (hopefully it will last that long). I guess keeping the oil changed every 3-4K miles helped getting to the 200K miles for all of my vehicles.

alcan

If that Dodge van is carbureted, check the choke for operation. Black smoke is unburned fuel from an over-rich condition. If the choke's ok, possibly a defective float or needle and seat. If it continues to run super rich the excess fuel can wash the cylinder walls and dilute the engine oil.

greekshooter

alcan thanks for the tip. I will have it checked out.

n4ty

Bought it new, now with 171K. 4-cyl, 5-speed.
Almost looks as good as the day we bought it.
Shiny paint, no dings, lots of wax and love.
We change the oil every 3K, and keep it up.
Biggest pain I've had is getting the timing belt replaced, which is every 60K. I hear the new 02 Camry uses a timing chain on the 4-cyl.
Catch the little problems before they get bigger.

xwray

Back in '75 my corvette was totalled and I bought a *very* used late 60's dodge dart for temporary transportation. All 4 floorboards were rusted out with plywood in place to keep your foot from dragging on the pavement. The upholstery was gone and a bedspread now served that purpose. It burned so much oil I took to scrounging used oil from my co-workers when they changed their oil rather than throwing it away. It would use about a quart every 25 miles. I even put some 90 weight differential oil in it one time when I had run out of regular reclaimed supermarket stuff and it burned that up too...really heavy sulfer smell emanating from the tailpipe. Speaking of which, this car had what I called "hardening of the tailpipe"...just like your arteries, the tailpipe internal diameter had shrunk to about an inch, the rest of the diameter being taken up with an oily encrustation. My drive to work was 12 miles one way. I had to carry a box of used sparkplugs because I could not make it to work without changing at least one of them before I got there...at least one of them would have become fouled with a piece of carbon that got lodged between the electrodes. I would clean them up when I got home and they would be ready for use the next day. Once, in a flood I was driving my daughter and a couple of her schoolmates to a school function. I came to a particularly low intersection that had standing water about 2 feet high...several cars had stalled out and it was like running an obstacle course but the dart just chugged right through them all, the only thing happening was that the floorboards all started to float. Those kids got the biggest kick out of that and still bring it up today when remembering the "olde days". That vehicle simply refused to die. When I got my new car, I actually sold it to someone who was desparate for cheap transportation and it was used for quite a while.
Maybe this thing doesn't get the prize for the most miles but it surely deserves recognition for the biggest heart...