Chevrolet Prizm Maintenance and Repair

in Chevrolet
Good Day Everyone,
I am having a little trouble with my Prizm. On my driver side window the window will roll down all the way just fine, but when I try and roll it back up you can only get it to go up a little bit at a time. I have to press the button, wait, and press it again but only to move it a couple inches each time.
My question, I wanted to know if you guys/gals think its just the motor, regulator, or something else I am not aware of.
TIA
I am having a little trouble with my Prizm. On my driver side window the window will roll down all the way just fine, but when I try and roll it back up you can only get it to go up a little bit at a time. I have to press the button, wait, and press it again but only to move it a couple inches each time.
My question, I wanted to know if you guys/gals think its just the motor, regulator, or something else I am not aware of.
TIA
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overdrive properly and slips constantly. dealer claims that this is normal. LOL , gm has contacted me and says nothing they can do for the car. i asked how many other prizms have they drove to form this opinion. what do you know all 3 persons from the dealership have not driven one. so therefore i am amazed how they formed this opinion. its a shame the car is fun to drive and its zippy. i have owned toyotas in the pat and was lured in by the lower price i got at the local chevy dealer.I now recall what my father told me as a boy. you get what you pay for.point blank, its a great little car but when the chevy dealer only has techs who have no experience working on asian cars and how to properly diagnose and repair them this is what you get. plus gm with there " we are big and dont care if we piss you off attitude". the car is useless to me . i had a vibration problem when we 1st got the car . i ended up fixing this myself after 5 trips for it. well i am tired of fixing my own new car and so tommorrow myself and gm are squaring off in a bbb hearing. gm hasnt even sent a rep or tech advisor to ride in the vehicle. but yet they constantly call me and tell me that this is a normal operation of the car, and wonder why i would want to take it to arbitration.so to gm i say get a clue because i will never buy another car that has your emblems or parts on or in it whatsoever. all i wish was that i had my 87 toyota supra back that i traded in. now that was a car.
1998 5-speed, 179,991 ( as of 12 noon today )
JOHNMAR: Bummer to hear about your vibration problems with such a relatively young car. It's either suspension (doubtful), steering (maybe), or tires (probably). I'd rotate the tires to see if you get the same vibration. Tires are the cause of many "feel" problems with cars. Unusual for a young car to have brake/steering/suspension problems unless you really drive it hard and constantly go over killer potholes. Good luck in your diagnosis; I bet the cause is pretty basic.
Has anyone replaced these and noticed a difference afterwards?
Thanks!!
Does anyone have any advice what could be causing the engine light or the hard shaking when idleing?
Jason
Shaking at idle could be broken engine mount(s). Misfiring cylinder could be a bad plug, plug wire, or worse. Does it feel like it is skipping a beat all the time or is it intermittent? When does it feel like it is losing power? Does the temp gauge show anything unusual like never warming up or overheating?
Oil in coolant or coolant in oil should be considered a sign of a catastrophic engine failure. It shuold be easy to tell once you change the coolant.
This is a small 4 cyl car and I have driven one whose engine noise at idle resonated with plastic interior parts. The car ran fine once it was moving but the vibration at idle was very annoying.
I'll check back here soon, so give me more details.
I replaced the radiator fluid per your instructions and will keep a watch to make sure that the oil isn't mixing with it.
Incententally, do all Geo Prizms need new strut mounts after a certain mileage? Our 1997 prizm used to shake a little at speeds above 60mph. We had the strut mounts replaced and now it rides smooth, even up to speeds 100mph+. These little cars like to go fast! I once did 107mph and didn't even realize it for a while one night.
Jason
As you perhaps know, running low on oil is one of the easiest fatal mistakes one can make. I wonder how it got to be 1.5 qt low in the first place. If the car is burning that much oil in 3000 miles, you can live with it. Just keep checking oil level EVERY TIME you fill up the car and add some as needed. A lot of older cars burn 2qts every 3000 miles. The burn rate may change at some point and you don't want to run low unexpectedly, hence the oil level check at every gas stop.
I am guessing that you saw smoke after the oil change. Oil filter removal is tricky and if a small amount of oil dripped on the exhaust pipe it will smoke some for a while.
Mine likes high speeds as well. In fact, it always gets 37-38 mpg at 80 mph road trips. I wish it was a little quieter at that speed, but for a $1500 car I am not complaining.
M
Thanks for all your help.
J
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks
I have a 1995 5spd Geo Prizm with 125,000 miles on it and I love it. It just recently developed a clunking noise on the left front. This only happens if I take off sometimes not all the time. At first I thought it was a loose lugnut. It wasn't, then sometimes it doesn't seem to lock into reverse when backing up. I have toyota aluminum wheels on it now from a Corrola which I know the Prizm is basically the same car. Does the half shafs go on these cars or is there some thing else I should look for?? I see something about the motor mounts. Hope to get a good reply on this, stay cool, H- :confuse:
I have a 95 Geo Prizm. The car runs well and have good millage (36 highway, 28 local). Recently, the car makes some noise when the engine is cold. It is kind of vibration noise and more obvious at idle. The the temerature is normal, the nosie is gone. Any idea of what's the problem?
Thanks,
Common misfire issues are leaking spark plug wires, worn spark plugs, clogging injectors or water in the fuel.
However, the rear mount I can't seem to get out for some reason. I tookt eht 3 nuts off and took out the botl that holds the mount to the bracket. The mount moves up, but it bumps against the driveshaft. I can't seem to get the mount out !! So frustating, so what do I do to get it out ?
The car was not used for the entire winter. I recently took the car to a mechanic and he tells me the crank pulley/ damper is shot. Do you think that is a possibility? Considering the noise coming out at idle. Also is it possible I did something wrong while installing the timing belt?
I'm having what sounds like a similar problem with a 1997 prizm.
Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
anyone have an idea whats wrong with my car based on the below descriptions?
It has 216K on it
Miss Pulsation or jerking that changes with engine speed. Exhaust has a steady spitting sound at idle or low speed. Not normally felt above 30 mph.
Rough idle Engine runs unevenly at idle. Car may also shake.
Sluggish Engine delivers limited power under load or at high speed. Won't accelerate as fast as normal. Loses speed going up hills. Vehicle has less speed than normal.
Spongy Little or no increase in speed when accelerator is pushed down. Continuing to push pedal down will eventually give an increase in speed.
i myself did replace all of the mounts on my 1995 geo prizm do to that annoying vibration noise, :mad: but it is still there
Thanks
It wasn't a problem in winter but now that it's warm my problems began including
occasional over heating, don't know if there's any relationship. HELP!
Also, there is a strange problem with the power steering: the steering wheel shakes at low speeds. (about 0-40 MPH) And suspiciously, both of these problems happened about a month after having the tires rotated.
I called the place that did the balance and rotation... And they said that the ABS sensors are in the calipers, and that no special steps are required when rotating.
i dont have enough money to goto a dealer,anything i can do by changing simpe parts,
provide me wats the problem and solution
waiting for your reply.
The actual problem was not with the ABS or brakes at all, but rather with the diagnostic system and the sensor to the light. He told me that it would be a more expensive fix than it was worth, because the sensors would need to be replaced, just to get the light to go out. I elected to just leave the light on, because I knew I had brake fluid and he told me the brakes and ABS were fine. I'd have them check it, because if you've already checked the brakes and such, it might just be a problem with the light itself.
I own a 2001 Chevy Prizm (Toyota Corolla) and found that there's a fuse missing from the fuse box, it's the 50A fuse for ABS, I don't know if there are known issues/problems with ABS on Prizm's, and if so I'd like to know, if there aren't any issues/problems with ABS on Prizm's, then I'd like to know if simply installing that fuse will turn ABS on.
Waiting for a reply.
Help me
Woolychick :sick: