If Volvo accessories are like ours, Volvo makes the most money. My cost would be about $92-$96 on a$100 item. If you are looking for a portable Nav unit,I would recommend going on-line to New Egg, Tiger Direct or some other internet provider and getting a good Garmin unit. That should save you quite a bit of money. Although I strongly believe in auto warranties, I usually do not buy them on electronics.
If I buy one from New Egg or someplace like that, don't I end up with suction cup holders and wires and all that? The advantage of getting the Volvo-sponsored one is they can wire it up through the dashboard and it looks nice, semi-built in. That is worth something to me.
If that has value to you then it would be the way to go. You also might check a good car audio/video shop. I have added nav to many cars and they make it look like factory. Personally, I would avoid a Best Buy or Car Toys type of store and find a dedicated independent shop. Just a suggestion. Let me know what you decide. My best advice is to do what you feel works best for you.
I have a Nissan Versa 2008 and owe $6000.00 ...I would like to trade it in on a new or fairly new Altima. What would be the best financial way of doing this? They only want to give me $10,000 for my car. There is nothing wrong with my car, I just would like to have the Altima instead.
Welcome! If I'm reading your post right, that's pretty decent news. You owe 6K and they want to give you 10K - we see a lot of people in a situation that's reversed - they owe 10K and they're offered 6K.
Basically, it'll be like you're buying without a trade EXCEPT that you have a 4,000 downpayment on the Altima. You pick out the Altima and negotiate your best price on that car. They will take the Versa, pay off the loan, and apply the $4,000 against the price of the Altima. Then, you just finance the remaining balance on the Altima like you would any other vehicle purchase.
Does this make sense? Please feel free to keep asking questions... that's why we're here. Better to ask questions before the transaction than after!
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Good answer Kristie. The one additional benefit to the trade is that in most states you pay taxes on the difference. Therefore, if they offer you $10,000 for the trade and your tax rate is 8% it saves you $800 in taxes. That would make your trade worth $10,800.
You can look at some value info here on Edmunds. Also, if there is a Carmax in your area, they will give you an offer to buy at a certain price. Edmunds gives Trade, private sale and Retail pricing estimates. Look under Used Cars and find that option somewhere.
I think one other poster mentioned a break on new vehicle sales tax if you trade. An example of that would be here in TN, avoiding 9.25% sales tax on the estimated $4000 equity would save you $370 (4000x.0925) Many times you could get more that $370 if you sold the vehicle yourself for top dollar which should be higher that what a dealer would allow on trade, but you have to decide if you can do that and if it is worth the work, risk, etc.
avoiding 9.25% sales tax on the estimated $4000 equity...
Would the sales tax credit be only on the equity, or the amount of the trade in? In most states you only pay sales tax on the net difference between the price paid for the new car less the amount of trade. In this case at 9.25% the sales tax savings would be $925.
Are you sure about this "most states" thing? In Virginia (my state), you pay tax on the full price of the new car, INCLUDING the dealer fee. What you trade in has nothing to do with it.
Could I suggest to the original poster that you just keep the Versa? I'm curious as to why you want to trade in a nearly-new car that isn't paid for yet? Constantly financing new cars is going to keep you in debt bondage all your life. If you were in a position to pay cash for your new car it wouldn't matter so much, but why continue to roll over debt?
My advice: keep paying on the Versa until it's paid off. Keep it another 3 years after that while making "car payments" to yourself in a dedicated savings account. THEN buy yourself whatever you can afford with the money in the bank. Go for financial freedom, not more debt.
IF all the service is up to date and it needs NOTHING right now. IF you can find the right buyer with the money and who is willing to pay top dollar for a private party car. IF you sell it in a reasonable amount of time so you can apply the money towards the new car. IF you are willing and able to make payments on both the new car and the old car until it sells.
Oh, and, finally, IF you detail it to the hilt and pay for advertising it everywhere. Which, all in all, will cost you a few hundred bucks. So, after losing the tax savings and paying for all of that advertising and detailing.... well, not such a great profit, if at all.
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Virginia is not included in "Most States". Here in Colorado, a charter member of "Most States", you pay tax on the price of the new car (including doc fee) minus the full value of the trade. Equity has nothing to do with the equation.
My experience with private party selling leads me to believe that it is the best option if: 1. you are selling a high-demand vehicle that also flies off dealer lots, or 2. you are selling a very low-cost car. For example, if you're getting $1000 on a trade-in and it's running decently, you might get another 50% by selling it privately at $1500.
Other than that... not worth it in my experience.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Agree. Having lived in 6 states and sold cars in the Northeast to residents of 5 or so states, it is exactly as you describe. Hence my "most states" comments.
Don't know what is going on in Virginia. If anyone else lives in a state that charges tax on the full price of the new car, regardless of trade, I would like to know about it. So I can avoid that state.
On a new car here, plates the first year are 2,5% of MSRP. It goes down every year thereafter. On my wife's 08 Highlander LTD, they are $529 this year.
We have a property tax, also.. but, that doesn't affect how often you trade cars, like a trade-in tax credit might.. We pay the property tax on every car that we own on January 1st of that year.. They collect it at the time of registration (birth month).
The only trade-in credit we have... is if you trade a used car for another used car, at a dealer... No trade-in credit on new car purchases.. Our rate is 6% on actual sales price or 5.4% of MSRP, whichever is lower.
One year, I turned my lease in on December 31st, and bought the new car on January 5th... saved me about $500, that year!
I thought the 2.5% was the personal property tax only, and the registration amount was added to that.
From the CO Department of Revenue and Denver County websites:
Ownership tax is a personal property tax based on the taxable value of your vehicle. The taxable value of a vehicle was calculated as a percentage of the Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) when the vehicle was brand new. This value remains constant throughout the life of the vehicle. (See Example #2 below.)
The percentage applied to your MSRP depends on the vehicle type.
Vehicle Type
Taxable Value Trucks and Trailers MSRP x 75% Passenger vehicles MSRP x 85% Motorcycles MSRP x 85%
The Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of a vehicle is not the same as the purchase price of the vehicle.
The ownership tax rate is based on the age of the vehicle from the date of manufacture. The ownership tax is calculated by multiplying the taxable value by the tax rate. (See Example #2 below.)
Vehicle Age
Tax Rate 1st year 2.10% 2nd year 1.50% 3rd year 1.20% 4th year 0.90% 5th-9th year 0.45% 10th year and older Flat fee of $3.00
EDIT - it is also important to note that this "ownership" or "personal property" tax is deductible on your federal taxes.
Agreed. Although I'd add even more caveats. Such as age and/or mileage. I'll probably get at least 3 times the trade-in value of my '87 E30 vert by selling privately, for example.
I consider $5k to be about the magic number for a private party sale. On something that cheap, you can find alot of buyers and I'd be looking at only $4k trade-in for just $280 tax credit. So after my detail and ad costs, I could still make a few hundred bucks. Plus it is not breaking the bank having it sit there for a little while.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
You are correct. Sorry I was not technically detailed enough for you. What do you expect from a Liberal Arts major who. played 2 sports in college? I was trying to simply illustrate the point that the state has their way of collecting money even if we get a tax credit on trades. Plates and registration in some states are very cheap, but the states usually have their way.
I was trying to simply illustrate the point that the state has their way of collecting money even if we get a tax credit on trades. Plates and registration in some states are very cheap, but the states usually have their way.
I agree with you ... in the end, the state will get their money.
The other nice thing is the county will pro-rate any unused registration fees and deduct them from what's owed if you get a new car.
I might save a few bucks doing that when we go to register our new MINI next month.
I am happy that NJ is not a property tax on cars state. Of course we more than make it up in other taxes.
My buddy up in New Hampshire has a running game he plays o see how little property tax he can pay on the car. Actually it's more than that - he's seeing how low he can drive down his cost per mile. This starts with a cheap, solid car - in his case an old Volvo 850 he picked up for maybe $3K. He's had it for years with no real repair costs. Every year around Memorial Day I get an update. We'll see how it's going in a couple of weeks.
2015 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, 2014 Mazda 3 Sport Hatchback, 1999 Mazda Miata 2004 Toyota Camry LE, 1999.
Sorry, but your advise althought right on target probably won't be heeded.
Just too practical.
At least this poster is in a positive equity situation which usually isn't the case.
If a person is unhappy with theri car and wants something different then it's unlikely they will change their mind.
It's probably a good thing she is trading a Nissan for another Nissan. They may pay more than other brand stores because Versas are not good sellers either as new or as used cars.
She's making a 4000.00 down payment, more if she get's a sales tax credit and that is not a bad thing!
Yes. I think the actual is only on the difference regardless of the equity. I was actually being a little simple. TN state sales tax is 7% (5% on food). There is also a single item clause that comes into play on large items :-) Nothing is ever simple.
A single article is defined as one item of tangible personal property in the form that it is delivered from the seller. The 7% state tax applies to the entire purchase price of the item. The applicable local sales tax rate applies the first $1,600 of the sale of a single article. There is an additional state tax of 2.75% applied to the amount in excess of $1,600 but less than or equal to $3,200.
Our local rate in the Memphis area is usually 2.25%...split equally between the county and city in this case. But the local maximum is 2.75%, so state, county and city taxes could be as much as 9.75% in some parts of TN. But we have no personal property of state income tax. There is something called the Hall Income Tax which applies to some investment income.
The reason I want to trade the Versa in is because when I went looking for a new car with my husband, I originially wanted an Altima but my husband talked me out of it and now I am just not happy with the Versa. I do have a cd coming mature at the end of the month and probably will pay off the Versa and then start fresh in looking for my Altima.
I'm about to buy a new Mazda with their 0.0% Financing for 60 months deal. Some of the dealerships are charging $1000 'extra' if we finance (or $1000 discount for cash, you could say).
Can they do that? Is that normal? Should I simply tell them that I won't pay the extra $1000? Is it a negotiable fee?
Giving you 0% financing costs them something. There is no such thing in the world as "free money," although they would like you to think so. It is typical that if a dealer offers a very low financing rate (including "0") that they will charge you more for the car. Guess what, that's what you are really paying for the financing.
If you have the cash, almost always you will get a better price. Definitely you will save a few thousand dollars that you would otherwise pay either outright for financing or else as a higher price for the car, that they then will say comes with "0%" financing.
If you have to finance, check around with your bank or credit union (best rates usually at the credit union), and see what their rates are. Then tell the dealer you will pay cash, and negotiate down to your best price. You might come out ahead with a loan from a different institution versus the dealer's so-called 0% rate.
Mazda Finance gives the dealer $1000, if you don't take the 0% financing.. It's as simple as that... You can try negotiating further, but the dealer is being straight with you...
If you finance $18K for 60 months at 4%, the total interest is $1890... If it were me, I'd pay the extra $1000 and take their 0%/60 month deal.. You'll save nearly $15/mo. vs. getting your own financing. (assuming you can get 4%).
Lots of different ways to run the numbers. $14,000 at 4 years at 4%, interest is a little over $1,000, so you'd come out about even either way. If you have to finance more than that or for a longer time than that, then you will pay more in interest costs.
If you can pay cash, and get that $1,000 "bonus," then you will pay the least.
So it depends if you have the cash, or if you have to finance, then how much can you put down, how much can you afford per month, and for how long.
.. You only get the full benefit of the financing, if you keep the car for the full term.. If you trade, sell or total the car before the term is up, you've lost some of the benefit.
But, I used $18K as an example for this deal, because I think that's pretty close to what you might finance on a Mazda 3. For that comparison, and assuming 4% money.. the 0% is a no-brainer... almost $900 better, even with paying the extra $1000 to get it. Even if you sold the car after three years, you'd come out ahead.
As biancar noted.... you have to do the math... If it's close, I take the money... Cheap financing, only if that is a clear winner.. If you have the money sitting in a money market earning 0.01% (that's one-hundreth of one percent), then pay cash!!
I would finance 0% (if it is equal to cash) all day long. I would much rather use their money than mine.
Ay, but there's the rub. It's NEVER equal to cash. You really need to run the numbers and not be seduced by the big ads screaming "0%." It might or might not be a better deal than a lower price, a shorter term, a higher down payment, etc., etc.
I did say "all things being equal" which would include price. I have been in the business 17 years and almost without exception the low rate is better than lost rebates. Then again, I am not dealing in $14k vehicles.
As long as people know what they're doing and understand the costs, I've got no problem with it. This discussion got started because the original poster wondered if the extra $1,000 that the dealer wanted if he used the low-rate financing was legit.
Of course it is; that's the price the buyer would pay for the financing. As long as the buyer understands all the components of the deal, and figures out which way is more advantageous, well, God bless 'em and drive happy.
Talking to myself here... well, at least until Q pops by again....
Fitzmall has a nice 3 HB with stick - unfortunately it is also with leather and everything else. $22K is a bit of sticker shock on that..... $25,670 MSRP!
here you go. Let me know when you are in the neighborhood.\
From what I remember about the optioning on these, this is probably about the lowest MSRP you can get with a moonroof. Unless you want a strippo and an aftermarket roof like Q did with his 5.
General Motors is offering 0% interest on a lot of vehicles right now. In most cases, you can either get a rebate, bonus cash, OR 0%. There is no charge to get the 0% through GMAC. At our dealership, we let the customer decide which was is best for them. We will run payments for them including the rebates with a bank or credit union doing the financing and we will run the payments doing away with rebates at 0% interest. Most times, the monthly payments are very close. As a salesman, I typically recommend my customer set up their payments for less than their target. If they do that, they can pay more than the regular payment, thus decreasing the interest paid and paying the loan off early. Also, if they run into a problem one particular month, they aren't financially stretched to make their payment. 0% or rebate money? That's for my customer to decide.
Comments
Basically, it'll be like you're buying without a trade EXCEPT that you have a 4,000 downpayment on the Altima. You pick out the Altima and negotiate your best price on that car. They will take the Versa, pay off the loan, and apply the $4,000 against the price of the Altima. Then, you just finance the remaining balance on the Altima like you would any other vehicle purchase.
Does this make sense? Please feel free to keep asking questions... that's why we're here. Better to ask questions before the transaction than after!
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I think one other poster mentioned a break on new vehicle sales tax if you trade. An example of that would be here in TN, avoiding 9.25% sales tax on the estimated $4000 equity would save you $370 (4000x.0925) Many times you could get more that $370 if you sold the vehicle yourself for top dollar which should be higher that what a dealer would allow on trade, but you have to decide if you can do that and if it is worth the work, risk, etc.
Would the sales tax credit be only on the equity, or the amount of the trade in? In most states you only pay sales tax on the net difference between the price paid for the new car less the amount of trade. In this case at 9.25% the sales tax savings would be $925.
Could I suggest to the original poster that you just keep the Versa? I'm curious as to why you want to trade in a nearly-new car that isn't paid for yet?
Constantly financing new cars is going to keep you in debt bondage all your life. If you were in a position to pay cash for your new car it wouldn't matter so much, but why continue to roll over debt?
My advice: keep paying on the Versa until it's paid off. Keep it another 3 years after that while making "car payments" to yourself in a dedicated savings account. THEN buy yourself whatever you can afford with the money in the bank. Go for financial freedom, not more debt.
That is about as big as an IF can get.
IF all the service is up to date and it needs NOTHING right now.
IF you can find the right buyer with the money and who is willing to pay top dollar for a private party car.
IF you sell it in a reasonable amount of time so you can apply the money towards the new car.
IF you are willing and able to make payments on both the new car and the old car until it sells.
Oh, and, finally, IF you detail it to the hilt and pay for advertising it everywhere. Which, all in all, will cost you a few hundred bucks. So, after losing the tax savings and paying for all of that advertising and detailing.... well, not such a great profit, if at all.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
1. you are selling a high-demand vehicle that also flies off dealer lots, or
2. you are selling a very low-cost car. For example, if you're getting $1000 on a trade-in and it's running decently, you might get another 50% by selling it privately at $1500.
Other than that... not worth it in my experience.
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Don't know what is going on in Virginia. If anyone else lives in a state that charges tax on the full price of the new car, regardless of trade, I would like to know about it. So I can avoid that state.
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Slightly better than that: it's 3%.
But we then have an annual personal property tax on cars, which is higher for new cars and then it gradually goes down.
The only trade-in credit we have... is if you trade a used car for another used car, at a dealer... No trade-in credit on new car purchases.. Our rate is 6% on actual sales price or 5.4% of MSRP, whichever is lower.
One year, I turned my lease in on December 31st, and bought the new car on January 5th... saved me about $500, that year!
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From the CO Department of Revenue and Denver County websites:
Ownership tax is a personal property tax based on the taxable value of your vehicle. The taxable value of a vehicle was calculated as a percentage of the Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) when the vehicle was brand new. This value remains constant throughout the life of the vehicle. (See Example #2 below.)
The percentage applied to your MSRP depends on the vehicle type.
Vehicle Type
Taxable Value
Trucks and Trailers MSRP x 75%
Passenger vehicles MSRP x 85%
Motorcycles MSRP x 85%
The Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) of a vehicle is not the same as the purchase price of the vehicle.
The ownership tax rate is based on the age of the vehicle from the date of manufacture. The ownership tax is calculated by multiplying the taxable value by the tax rate. (See Example #2 below.)
Vehicle Age
Tax Rate
1st year 2.10%
2nd year 1.50%
3rd year 1.20%
4th year 0.90%
5th-9th year 0.45%
10th year and older Flat fee of $3.00
EDIT - it is also important to note that this "ownership" or "personal property" tax is deductible on your federal taxes.
I consider $5k to be about the magic number for a private party sale. On something that cheap, you can find alot of buyers and I'd be looking at only $4k trade-in for just $280 tax credit. So after my detail and ad costs, I could still make a few hundred bucks. Plus it is not breaking the bank having it sit there for a little while.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I agree with you ... in the end, the state will get their money.
The other nice thing is the county will pro-rate any unused registration fees and deduct them from what's owed if you get a new car.
I might save a few bucks doing that when we go to register our new MINI next month.
My buddy up in New Hampshire has a running game he plays o see how little property tax he can pay on the car. Actually it's more than that - he's seeing how low he can drive down his cost per mile. This starts with a cheap, solid car - in his case an old Volvo 850 he picked up for maybe $3K. He's had it for years with no real repair costs. Every year around Memorial Day I get an update. We'll see how it's going in a couple of weeks.
Just too practical.
At least this poster is in a positive equity situation which usually isn't the case.
If a person is unhappy with theri car and wants something different then it's unlikely they will change their mind.
It's probably a good thing she is trading a Nissan for another Nissan. They may pay more than other brand stores because Versas are not good sellers either as new or as used cars.
She's making a 4000.00 down payment, more if she get's a sales tax credit and that is not a bad thing!
A single article is defined as one item of tangible personal property in the form that it is delivered from the seller. The 7% state tax applies to the entire purchase price of the item. The applicable local sales tax rate applies the first $1,600 of the sale of a single article. There is an additional state tax of 2.75% applied to the amount in excess of $1,600 but less than or equal to $3,200.
Details at http://state.tn.us/revenue/faqs/salesandusefaq.htm if interested
Our local rate in the Memphis area is usually 2.25%...split equally between the county and city in this case. But the local maximum is 2.75%, so state, county and city taxes could be as much as 9.75% in some parts of TN. But we have no personal property of state income tax. There is something called the Hall Income Tax which applies to some investment income.
I'm about to buy a new Mazda with their 0.0% Financing for 60 months deal. Some of the dealerships are charging $1000 'extra' if we finance (or $1000 discount for cash, you could say).
Can they do that? Is that normal? Should I simply tell them that I won't pay the extra $1000? Is it a negotiable fee?
If you have the cash, almost always you will get a better price. Definitely you will save a few thousand dollars that you would otherwise pay either outright for financing or else as a higher price for the car, that they then will say comes with "0%" financing.
If you have to finance, check around with your bank or credit union (best rates usually at the credit union), and see what their rates are. Then tell the dealer you will pay cash, and negotiate down to your best price. You might come out ahead with a loan from a different institution versus the dealer's so-called 0% rate.
If you finance $18K for 60 months at 4%, the total interest is $1890... If it were me, I'd pay the extra $1000 and take their 0%/60 month deal.. You'll save nearly $15/mo. vs. getting your own financing. (assuming you can get 4%).
regards,
kyfdx
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Now I just need to know if I'm getting a good price :-) $1000 below invoice? (plus $1000 for financing, yields Invoice + 0% interest + TTL)
Lots of different ways to run the numbers. $14,000 at 4 years at 4%, interest is a little over $1,000, so you'd come out about even either way. If you have to finance more than that or for a longer time than that, then you will pay more in interest costs.
If you can pay cash, and get that $1,000 "bonus," then you will pay the least.
So it depends if you have the cash, or if you have to finance, then how much can you put down, how much can you afford per month, and for how long.
Bankrate.com has some good financial calculators that will give you the amortization schedule for auto loans.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
But, I used $18K as an example for this deal, because I think that's pretty close to what you might finance on a Mazda 3. For that comparison, and assuming 4% money.. the 0% is a no-brainer... almost $900 better, even with paying the extra $1000 to get it. Even if you sold the car after three years, you'd come out ahead.
As biancar noted.... you have to do the math... If it's close, I take the money... Cheap financing, only if that is a clear winner.. If you have the money sitting in a money market earning 0.01% (that's one-hundreth of one percent), then pay cash!!
regards,
kyfdx
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As you said, I'd rather have the money in my account than in theirs. It doesn't take much interest on my part to make up that $1000 over 5 years
Don't know why I thought it was a Mazda 3.. If you are in that price range, then 0% for an extra $1000 is a no-brainer..
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Ah yes.... an unbiased opinion.. :surprise:
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We'll see. It's still another loan to carry.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Ay, but there's the rub. It's NEVER equal to cash. You really need to run the numbers and not be seduced by the big ads screaming "0%." It might or might not be a better deal than a lower price, a shorter term, a higher down payment, etc., etc.
http://www.bankrate.com/calculators/auto/car-rebates-calculator.aspx
Of course it is; that's the price the buyer would pay for the financing. As long as the buyer understands all the components of the deal, and figures out which way is more advantageous, well, God bless 'em and drive happy.
Fitzmall has a nice 3 HB with stick - unfortunately it is also with leather and everything else. $22K is a bit of sticker shock on that..... $25,670 MSRP!
Here it is.
Feel free to find me one cheaper (hatchback, manual with sunroof) and closer.....
From what I remember about the optioning on these, this is probably about the lowest MSRP you can get with a moonroof. Unless you want a strippo and an aftermarket roof like Q did with his 5.
http://www.msmazda.com/new/mazda-mazda3-s_sport-2010-I1328221.html
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