I hava a 97 Avalon that has 48k miles on it. At about 25k miles I noticed noise in the front struts. The dealer first said the strut caps had been redesigned and needed to be replaced; this was done but there was still noise. They then replaced the struts. Then had to return for readjustments to lessen the noise. Then noticed excessive front tire wear and the dealer made an adjustment for me to purchase new tires. Apparently they had not realigned the front end or misaligned it after strut replacement, thus resulting in the tire wear problem. Bottom line is that I still think the suspension has a problem, noise, possibly front and rear. Don't think Toyota has really leveled with purchasers regarding strut problems on this model year of Avalon. Would like for others that have had similar problems to respond. What are the possible solutions?
I have a 2000 xls with 7500 miles on it. I've always changed the oil and filter on my cars. But the horizontal filter on the front of the engine makes it a mess to accomplish.
Is there a trick or a special tool available for pulling the filter without getting oil all over the place?
Anybody have any thoughts on running synthetic oil in the Avalon? Which weight?
You will notice that the end of the filter is made so a tool will fit it, like an oversize socket. Buy your new Toyota filter, take it by the local auto parts dealer and match it up with the "socket" that fits the oil filter. You can then loosen the filter with either a wrench or ratchet, whichever you prefer. Having changed oil several times, I've yet to figure out a way to keep the old oil off of the exhaust system as it drains from the filter. Using rags and/or paper towels, you just sop up as much of the oil as possible and go from there.
You can run synthetic oil but until the warranty on the car has expired, you may be required to change as often as if you were running "normal" oil (to keep from voiding the warranty).
I posted this exact question a few months ago on another forum and never got any response. Like ferg52641, i just use a lot of paper towels to clean up and throw it into the oil eater disposal box. It is perhaps my first "annoyance flaw" that I have found for the ava. My corolla had enough clearance to let the filter and drips drop straight into the disposal box. I am currently using 5w-30w Castrol syn blend, but plan to change to Mobilone 5w-30w pure syn after the next oil change. I have 6000+ miles and the next change will be my third one.
I have 96 Toyota Avalon with 86k. I've replaced the struts once and am just replacing the rack and pinion for the second time. It's on CO with 15 ahead of me. Anyone else have this kind of problem. I'm a gentle driver too!
I've read through the manual and I can't find the specification for the size of the hex wrench required to remove the oil drain plug on a 2000 XLS. Anybody know the size or if it is a special tool sold by Toyota?
I just bought my car on Martin luther King Day. It has rained every day since I bought it. While getting out of the car I noticed my rug looked wet under the mat. The floor was saturated wet. the dealer asked if it was moisture. I had to explain my intellegence. They said they will use the "water doctor" that comes around weekly and he will find the problem. To me it appears to be coming out of the foot rest. the rug is not wet under the brake or the gas pedal only from the foot rest down. anyone else have a problem with water? This is my first new car in 10 years and I paid 29,852.00 cash. I feel sick to my stomach!
Post no. 57 - yes I've replaced my steering rack and yes I've heard the same things about a number of people having them fail.
I've also had a rattle in the front and there is a small struct, almost like an idler arm (as I am told) that was worn. Replaced it and the noise went away, but my mechanic said that the bushing on the top of the strut was also worn and needed replacing. He used to be the dealerships service manager and said when he called for the parts they were backordered. A waiting of 25 was ahead of me, seems they fail often.
Some parts will fail due to wear and we need to expect this. However, there are some parts that seem to fail on a regular basis. I don't really believe that the company will ever provide relief for these parts, but I will need to purchase a car in the future and these issues are a factor to consider in making a decision. The problem being who is still producing a good car, with good dealer support.
I purchased a 2000 xls from a local dealer (5k miles and was driven by service mgr, an acquaintance of mine). I had driven '97 &'98 xl/xls and noticed a wind noise similar to the one you mention. The known culprit at Toyo dealers is the air seal around the driver-side rear door. No one seems to know why. That sort of thing makes me crazy. I was assured the problem had been fixed on the 2000 model and so far, so good. I have noticed in a strong cross wind that the front door away from the cross wind was pulled open enough to hear road noise (likely due to the vacuum created on that side of the car by the wind pressure. The door(s) could likely use stronger reinforcement but seem to close tightly and are fairly quite. db
I am a long time toyota owner. The best of the lot was my '94 camry xle. One of the pleasures of driving that car was the power switch on the tranmission/transaxle. I only drove the car in the "power" mode. More frequent downshifts and upshifts and every one as smooth as silk. Last year I purchased a 2000 ava xls. There is a lot to like about the car, but the transmission is not on my list of likable features. They have taken my "power" button away (though a notch-out appears on my shift panel) where it should have been. I have always driven my toyotas as more of a sports car, not too fast but with the feel of having plenty of power on demand. The larger and heavier avalon is geared much more like a luxury car and is stodgy at lower speeds unless I really "punch it." Down shifting through a corner is like waiting for grass to grow before it will find the lower gear and go. It almost feels as if by the time it downshifts to the lower gear it is already time to upshift and it is meeting itself coming and going.
Does anyone know if toyota makes an alternate transmission for this vehicle or a microchip which would cause it to shift more fluidly. The mpg sticker on the car was impressive when I bought it, but I'm afraid Toyota exacted their mileage performance at the expense of on-demand smooth power by installing a transmission that gets you into the higher gears much sooner than necessary with a 210 hp engine, as good as it is, that is simply inadequate to handle the gear ratio. Don't get me wrong, I can get the performance out of the car if I put a brick on the accellerator. Who wants to go through life like that?
I had strongly considered trading it for a 300ES, which I believe still has a choice of power settings, but hate to give up the big cabin of the xls. Any suggestions? db
Do you mean hex or socket wrench...motor oil or transmission oil drain plug? On my 2000 XL, the motor oil drain plug comes off with an ordinary metric socket wrench, either 14 or 15 mm size. However you are right in that the owner manual does not state which size, nor the location of the plug-was Toyota thinking the "average-age 55 or so etc" Ava owner would not be changing his/her own oil? Anyway it looks like the transmission oil drain plug needs a hex wrench- a rather large one- I'd guess at least 3/8 to 1/2.
Has anyone else had problems with the door hinge on the 2000 Toyota Avalon XL? The hinge appears to be inadequate for the weight of the door. The hinge on the driver's side keeps working loose and I'm afraid the screw on the hinge will eventually pull through the metal. I'd like to hear if any of you experienced similar problem.
50 of 64 Re: Toyota Avalon Wind Noise by dcormier Jan 15, 2001 (07:14 pm)
Sorry to tell you that the 98 did not have depowered airbags.
My 98 had the creaking noise in the struts. Was fixed under warranty but still creaked for another week , then quit. Good news
The Avalon is no BMW. On paper, 200-210 hp sounds good and it is, for effortless cruising at higher speeds. (Whispering--I ran my 98 up to 122 mph in the desert in third gear). Unfortunately the engine torque curve means you really have to spool this engine up to get better acceleration, and as stated by an earlier contributor, each shift throws the Avalon way behind its torque curve. Any good running Dodge pick-up can shut you down at a stop light or a toll booth. The tranny always performed well in everyday driving and after all , this is Toyota's answer to a Buick.
When my lease was up I decided not to get another because I wanted more zip (5 speed auto), side curtain air bags, and a black leather interior. None of which the Avalon can provide.
Folks, this was a good people hauler that was topss in quality and reliability. Just understand it's intended market target.
Went to the Houston Autoshow this weekend and low and behold there was a 2001 XLS in Silver Spruce identical to my 2000 model. It was garnering alot of attention (only overshadowed by the Highlander and the Sequoia).
I spoke to several people who were interested in the car and told them my experiences with mine. Most seemed very happy with the car and would most likely buy one.
I just ordered my 1st Toyota, 2001 Avalon XL. I have always wanted a white car, so I purchased the pearl white, with ivory interior. Now this is my dilemma. We live on a farm, the driveway around our garages and buildings are graveled. One of the grandkids is really into horses. So I am forever running back and forth to the stables. I had read somewhere you can purchase vinyl mat, front and back, inserts. I have been told that the members on this message site can help you fine everything. We have had such messy weather lately, that it will only take a day or two for my dream car to look just like my "95 Windstar" and that is really another story, that every Windstar owner could talk about for days. I liked the silver Avalon, but the interior (gray) was as dull as one could look for. Ok guys, I know you can tell me the best place to order these. I would like a fairly nice grade. Then in summer I can take the liners out and enjoy the beautiful interior. I've waited a long time for a car this nice. Hope I really have great lucky with the car.
If you are talking about the floor mats that hold 1.5 quarts of mud and water, I have these in my Avalon. They are available from Griotsgarage.com.
Also, try "beverly hills motoring accessories."
Keep in mind-I was told they are vehicle specific. They are NOT! It is a generic pattern that will closely fit your Avalon. They work great. . .I was just expecting a "Tailor" fit.
As I said, I love the Avalon. It has been great. 17,000 Trouble free miles and is still quiet and efficient.
I am in the Gulf States area so mine came with all the "fluff" including the Toyoguard. I see no real benefit to it except for the product that came with the car from Toyota....by far one of the better waxes that I have used.
Yes, the optional Toyoguard gives you not one but TWO cans of wax. Got it on my '99 Avalon. BEST WAX ever sold in America. Works like pure Teflon. Even put it on my Hondas. My '99 Av just turned 52,000 miles...no repairs so far. Get 29 mpg on the road. Has the right front strut thump-a-thump sound on a washboard road - but who cares. What a car! Will be looking at the '02 models when the time comes. Av's are pricey, but, quality is never cheap. Enjoy.
Yes, the wax that came with it is excellent....and you can buy more at the parts department of the dealer.
You can also get the touch-up paint as well. Years ago, every new toyota came with a can of touch-up paint, however with the advent of clear-coat, etc...that is pretyy impossible now.
If you're talking about the small one screw hinge, which supplements (I guess) the weight bearing hinges of the door, I had the same problem. I tightened it a couple of times, but it would work loose. So I took the car to a dealer (not even the one where I bought the Y2K XLS) They replaced the screw. It has been a couple of months with no loosening
I have a 20001 Avalon XLS with about 500 miles on it. There is an annoying popping or stretching noise coming from the ceiling just behind the driver's seat. It is intermittent, not particularly related to road bumps or vehicle sway. It was less noticeable with the moon roof open than when it was closed. Sometimes it sounds a bit like a loud rain drop hitting the roof. I took it back to the dealer who drove it and said, "yeah, that doesn't sound right," so they replaced the cable on the moonroof. That seems to have made no difference. I have owned many toyotas, and this is the first one that went back to the dealer so quickly. Has anyone experienced this problem, or have any suggestions on what to do now? It is hard to know if I like the car otherwise, as this is so annoying.
My wife and I purchased an Avalon 2000 XL last year. She is the primary user, driving it to work every day. We brought the car to our dealer for regular maintenance at approximately 10K miles and were told that the front disc brake rotors needed to be turned because they had become glazed. I asked why this would be necessary, especially after only 10K miles. The service manager told me that it isn't uncommon for this to happen at 10K to 40K mile intervals, the frequency depending upon how the car is driven. He said the problem is exacerbated by repeated soft braking and that if one applies the brakes more strongly, the likelihood of the problem is reduced. Well, my wife drives through heavy Seattle traffic every work day - lots of stop and go. Strong braking is something you generally want to avoid under those conditions and anyway, the smooth ride is one of the reasons we selected the Avalon. I asked the service manager why after all the years of disc brakes being in use, this is now surfacing as a problem (we never experienced glazing with our Tercel after driving it over 150K miles). He said that because of U.S. Environmental Protection Agency limitations on what could be used in the composition of the brake pads, the rotors are now more easily glazed.
Well, I am not looking forward to periodically having the rotors turned to eliminate glazing, and I am very skeptical about the explanation provided by the service manager. To my knowledge, this issue has not come up previously at this web site (though I must admit, I haven't done an exhaustive search). Could the ABS brake system be a factor? I would appreciate any feedback on this issue.
#1 of 2 Avalon #67 (Kymemmie/Marg) by ovlee Feb 09, 2001 (07:16 pm) Hi Marg: Your question about vinyl mats: I have for years made my own, from clear vinyl carpet protector material, available at Wal-Mart and such. I take the mats out and mark the size with Marks-alot and then cut 'em out with (tough) scissors. It's a little trouble, but I enjoy doing it, and it certainly saves the original mats. I "bolt" them together with nuts/bolts/washers (about 1/2 inch is right). The driver's side mat has the handy "hook" attached to the frame(?) which obviates the left fastening on that mat. Being clear, they, to me, are nicer than anything you can buy....Oliver Lee
The only thing glazed should be ceramic tiles in your bathroom.
This is one of those ..."Hey Joe, here comes another one... lets get him...."
Since rotors grind against break shoes, often, in high temps, it is normal that they are smooth and shiny. Acutally and opposite, it is a real problem when they have circular ridges going thru them. Then you need them turned and shoes replaced.
If you still feel uneasy, take the car home, pull the wheels off and used some fine sand paper and rub the rotos with it. Shine (glaze) will dissapear. Needless to say, that after two-three drives, the glaze will re-appear.
Thanks for you comments, rzepa2. They help to confirm my suspicions. Looks like I need to find a new place for servicing our Avalon.
By the way, the Toyota dealer didn't charge for turning the rotors (based on the warranty). So, I'm not sure why all this happened. My wife thinks that because she brought the car in for the servicing, she as a woman wouldn't be expected to ask questions. Could it have been a ploy to show her they were on top of potential problems with the car and thus reinforce her willingness to keep bringing the car in for servicing? That doen't make a lot of sense to me. Could it be a setup to charge for turning the rotors in the future? That seems crazy too. Oh well, it's not worth wasting any more time on this. I will find another place to service the car. Thanks again.
My wife radio volume will change all on its own. The dealer said he changed it but it still happens almost every time she drives it but the dealer dint notice it? Also 3rd time the trunk carpet has come loose. Other wise We love our 2000 LS. any advice
My mom has a 2000 Avalon with 20,800 miles and we love it. However, I noticed something last night. I was riding with her and had the map light on since I was reading. It's VERY hard to notice, but while I was reading, I saw that the light flickers just a bit. It's almost like someone has a dimmer switch and is quickly turning it up and down. I'm wondering what this could be. The same thing happens when the door is open with the car running. The strange thing is that I've never noticed this while the ignition is off. Do any of you know what this could be? Also, I, too, have noticed a slight difference in the radio's volume. I am wondering if our problem is reception; I have never noticed it on the CD player. Has replacing the stereo alleviated any of the problems that you guys have had with this? Is there a TSB for a popping sound under the driver's seat? Someone else had mentioned the popping sound. I was just wondering. Thanks a bunch.
I have just replaced the Rack in our Avalon. I had similiar response from the Toyota Dealer saying they regularly replace the rack at a young age (ours at 64,000). I contacted Toyota Customer Service and they said they have not heard of the problem. Has anyone received any help from Toyota on what appears to be a particular problem with this model. The repairs were in excess of $1000.00 which is pretty steep for a young and pampered car. I also own a 2000 Tundra Limited, great machine!
toyoto had to replace both of my front seat rails. this stopped the popping,but they never could get the correct drivers seat. also the dash is very noisy. they have had the car for 19 days replacing the dashboard.
Folsom12, I post a similiar question (#22) some time ago. The difference is I went and purchased a replacement where the Toyota dealer bought his parts and did the work myself. I looked for my file on this, I kept it in case there was ever a recall by Toyota, and the total part cost was approximately $250. Talked to Toyota Customer Service, as you did, and got the same response.
Brace yourself, 'cause I think the Tundra and Avalon share the same rack.
Additionally, the rebuild dealer gives lifetime warranty on all racks except this one (one year -a clue?).
Another item to look for are the bearings at the top of your front struts. They have a tendancy to fail, noisy when they do and this may solve some of the noise problems in the front end.
Just remember it's a machine and they wear out, a friend of mine restores and shows older cars and as he says "the worst cars built today are better than the best cars built back then"
I purchased an Avalon XLS last fall and have driven it about 4000 miles. My problem is the paint on the hood. I have three chips on the front edge of the hood already. I covered them with touch up paint but they are still noticeable. Has anyone else had problems with the paint? Is there an after-market shield available? I've also noticed the car drifts to the left slightly. Otherwise, the car is great.
I reached my 1 year anniversary of Avalon ownership a couple of weeks ago and have managed to put 21,000 miles on my car. This is the after action report for year one.
About a month ago, I started experiencing a scraping sound from the front tire wheel well after I had gone through a dip at speed or rolled through a dip entering a highway. This sound didn't happen when I went over rough roads or hit a pot hole. I did have a significant rattle in the dash though.
I took the car into the Plano Toyota service department (Plano is a suburb of Dallas, TX) and talked with James Wood. I mention this because I had read some horror stories in these forums relating to Toyota dealers and warranty work. They had the car back that afternoon after replacing the front struts and pulling the dash off. No arguments, no "I don't hear anything" or, "That's the nature of that model." They just fixed it. The lack of argument on the struts leads me to believe that Toyota is aware that the front struts are not up to snuff, because James said something to the effect that they had added heavier duty struts than the originals.
They fixed the rattle in the dash, but not the scraping sound. It wasn't quite as bad, but still there, sounding the worst on the drivers side. Looks like the struts weren't the culprits in this case.
I didn't have time to take the car back for a few weeks. The dash rattle came back and I finally had some time to run it by and give them another crack at it. James went for a ride with me. We picked up on the dash rattle right away, but the scraping sound was much harder to reproduce. We finally found a spot right turning into a parking lot (small dip) that finally showed the problem.
James gave me a brand new loaner (9 miles on the odo) and took the car in. It took three days, but they finally took care of the problems. They even had me come back and take a drive with the quality manager to make sure I was satisfied.
They had taken apart the dash completely and tightened every bolt in there. They also made sure all of the wire harnesses were secure (a couple had not been when they opened it up.) As for the scrape, there seemed to be a plastic liner piece that had loosened up in the wheel well that would scrape the tire under certain conditions. They tightened it up and it seems like the sound is gone. I tested it at a known problem site by my house and it worked just fine, no noise. To top it off, they washed and waxed it:-)
I found James and the whole service department to be pleasant, courteous, informative and honest. They seemed to really care that I was happy with the service. James called me on a fairly regular basis to keep me up to date on progress. He even called me to let me know they hadn't found the problem yet, but were working on it. That's great service and I have to say that they did an outstanding job. Everything you buy has the potential for problems. It's how a company treats you when that problem pops up, that counts.
Thus ends my report. I love the Avalon after a year of ownership. The car has performed as I have expected and the service has been outstanding when needed. The above mentioned problems are the only ones I have had in the first 21,000 miles. I hope they will be the last, but I'm old enought to know better. It's a good feeling to know there is a good dealership backing me up.
I purchased 2001 XL and have driven for 4,000 miles. I'm generally very happy.
However I've had a few issues and wonder if anyone has had same:
1) While driving very slowly (5-10 mph) in heavy highway traffic, engine coughed and stammered. This continued for about 10 seconds. I had to shift to neutral and race the pedal to prevent stalling.
2) Driver's seat belt folds and jams. Have to manually unfold the belt (a struggle) before use.
3) Radio went on when I turned on the heat (at first I figured I bumped the radio button). However, radio then powered on and off intermittently (wouldn't stay on or off). I suddenly heard very loud Pop sound and radio died entirely. I checked the fuse (#9 located under the hood) and it's fine. Also, other items on the circuit (dome light) are working fine.
I have been changing oil in all my cars during the last 8 years. Now, my 2001 XL is up for the first one. How hard is it on the Avalon? Where is the oil filter ?
changed. The filter is small, and on the front of the engine, about mid point of the width of the car. It is hidden underneath the exhaust manifold, so reaching from the top is difficult. I watched them do it (from a distance) at the dealership, and the trick is to have the right tools that can reach the filter from underneath. The undercarriage is right below the drip path, so try and clean the oil up as much as possible (there must be a trick to the way they did this at the dealership). Even though everything is tightened to spec (filter and oil pan lug) you may still get some oil drips on the garage floor (dripping off the undercarriage). According to the dealer, and other owners I've talked to, it's normal. Dealer agrees it's a bit unnerving.
As Joel2468 pointed out that the oil filter is hidden underneath the exhaust manifold. You can cover everything underneath the oil filter in the engine compartment with towels or plastic sheets and with an oil pan underneath to keep your garage floor clean. I was able to remove the oil filter with an universal oil wrench that loosen or tighten the filter with each turn of a torque wrench. The oil filter on the new 2000-01 Avalon is easier to remove than other Nissans, and Honda that I owned.
Due to lack of time and really cold garage, I went to the dealership (where I purchased the car) to have it changed ($25). Since they did not meet 29' minute gurantee,next one is free. Given it some more thoughts, I think I will stick with dealeship as long as the car is under warranty.
Just purchased a 2001 Avalon XLS, only 300 miles so far. Today I was driving in rain with some sleet and heavy winds. As I sat at a traffic light, the trunk suddenly popped wide open. I had not touched a thing. The radio was on at the time. i had to get out of the car at the light, and close the trunk lid.
Has anyone ever heard of this? Could the lock be loose or something, or could it have been a random radio frequency that triggered the trunk release?
I have 98 Toyota Avalon I just bought an extra remote on E-bay. Can anyone tell me how to program it. I have been told its rather simple. I called my dealer who wants me to make a service appointment to do it
I have a 2000 Avalon AL almost one year old. When it was about one month old I was fueling the car with the engine running. Afterwards the a dashboard warning light came on. It could only be turned off by the dealer who advised me to always turn off the ignition while fueling to avoid a repeat. Otherwise I love the car & am thinking of buying a second Avalon for my wife.
I have an Avalon 2000 with 7000 miles on it. I have exactly the same problem with the paint and drift. The car has already 3 chips. I think it definitely is the paint problem. I have older Toyota with no such chips. This car also drifts toward left on a plain road.
I'm thinking my next car will not be Toyota any more after four Toyota.
It paid for itself when I purchased it ...still it was in the 1994 on that year Grand Am.
The insurance was not thru GM but some independent place (bought it at the time of purchasing the car at the dealership). When the car broke few times (after 3 year warranty) I took it to my mechanic,paid him and then got money back from insurance within a month or so,no hassle. I liked it since I've known my mechanic for over 7 years and I wished I could have taken my car under 3 year warranty to him. Those bozos at dealership are most of the times clueless.
Last Dec. I bough 2001 XL avalon. I did not buy extended as I don't expect this car to break often. If I feel that the car is not as reliable as it supposed to be, I will buy insurance from the same place next year or so.
In summary there are few things to consider. If I was you and had no clue who drove the car before and how it was taken care off, I would buy the insrance but would not necessarily go to a dealer to have it serviced if this was am option.
I'm in the process of selecting a new car to lease. I'm considering the Avalon, Volvo. and Bonneville. I've had 2 Bonnevilles a few years back and never had any problems with them. I just like the looks of the new Volvos. I had 2 Toyotas in 88 and 89, both new. The 88 kept stalling, and in fact most of the time never left the dealer's maintenance dept because it would die. Finally, after 6 months of arguing, Toyota agreed to take back the 88 if I would buy a new 89. That was a Camry and after 2 years and about 25,000 miles I needed a new transmission. By then I was great friends with the guys in the shop and I was told that the Camry had a lot of transmission problems that year. This was also a year that Consumer Reports gave them one of the highest ratings for mechanical problems. Of course, they had problems finding a rebuilt trans because, supposedly, there weren't many out there. That was the last Toyota I bought. Now, here I am, once again debating if I should go with the Avalon. I must admit, reading all of your messages are really scaring me, sort of deja vu. Any input? If you really had to do it all over would you have bought the Avalon?
Buy an Avalon again? No way. We have a 2000 XLS that has been very troublesome. I don't think we'll even buy another American made Toyota product. They just aren't what Toyota is capable of making in Japan. You can by a new Lexus ES300 for just over 30K., and a 3 year old LS400 for about the same. Both vehicles have the highest quality, lowest defect rates and best reliability records in their classes and are top notch. You can get the service records for ANY Lexus at ANY dealership, since they have a nationwide computer system. There's a good reason that GM is losing market share in every class they sell in. You may have been lucky with your Bonnevilles, but statistics aren't on your side.
The Y2K and 2001 Avalons are not much different in many ways than the ES300 and Camry. Same basic platform, different packaging ,amenities, and some chassis engineering differences. The basic V6 engine configuration is also common to each.(An excellent engine, by the way). Reliability and performance for all of these models is proven--and build quality is second to none. (The Toyota plant in Kentucky where they build Avalons is an Industry benchmark, incidentally). No doubt you will see negative comments about Toyota products--there are bound to be some who are harder to please than most. The bottom line is that Toyota's record speaks for itself for the most part--polls and consumer feedback confirm this. For what it's worth, we have an ES300 and an Avalon XLS. Both are great--not one problem after 50000 combined miles, and none expected. What you buy is your decision, but you can be assured that odds are you'll have less problem with a Toyota product than most others, IMHO. Good luck, regardless.
Comments
Is there a trick or a special tool available for pulling the filter without getting oil all over the place?
Anybody have any thoughts on running synthetic oil in the Avalon? Which weight?
Thanks for any tips or thoughts.
so a tool will fit it, like an oversize socket.
Buy your new Toyota filter, take it by the local
auto parts dealer and match it up with the "socket"
that fits the oil filter. You can then loosen the
filter with either a wrench or ratchet, whichever
you prefer. Having changed oil several times, I've
yet to figure out a way to keep the old oil off of
the exhaust system as it drains from the filter.
Using rags and/or paper towels, you just sop up as
much of the oil as possible and go from there.
You can run synthetic oil but until the warranty
on the car has expired, you may be required to
change as often as if you were running "normal" oil
(to keep from voiding the warranty).
It is perhaps my first "annoyance flaw" that I have found for the ava. My corolla had enough clearance to let the filter and drips drop straight into the disposal box.
I am currently using 5w-30w Castrol syn blend, but plan to change to Mobilone 5w-30w pure syn after the next oil change. I have 6000+ miles and the next change will be my third one.
I've read through the manual and I can't find the specification for the size of the hex wrench required to remove the oil drain plug on a 2000 XLS. Anybody know the size or if it is a special tool sold by Toyota?
Thanks again.
I've also had a rattle in the front and there is a small struct, almost like an idler arm (as I am told) that was worn. Replaced it and the noise went away, but my mechanic said that the bushing on the top of the strut was also worn and needed replacing. He used to be the dealerships service manager and said when he called for the parts they were backordered. A waiting of 25 was ahead of me, seems they fail often.
Some parts will fail due to wear and we need to expect this. However, there are some parts that seem to fail on a regular basis. I don't really believe that the company will ever provide relief for these parts, but I will need to purchase a car in the future and these issues are a factor to consider in making a decision. The problem being who is still producing a good car, with good dealer support.
Does anyone know if toyota makes an alternate transmission for this vehicle or a microchip which would cause it to shift more fluidly. The mpg sticker on the car was impressive when I bought it, but I'm afraid Toyota exacted their mileage performance at the expense of on-demand smooth power by installing a transmission that gets you into the higher gears much sooner than necessary with a 210 hp engine, as good as it is, that is simply inadequate to handle the gear ratio. Don't get me wrong, I can get the performance out of the car if I put a brick on the accellerator. Who wants to go through life like that?
I had strongly considered trading it for a 300ES, which I believe still has a choice of power settings, but hate to give up the big cabin of the xls. Any suggestions? db
On my 2000 XL, the motor oil drain plug comes off with an ordinary metric socket wrench, either 14 or 15 mm size.
However you are right in that the owner manual does not state which size, nor the location of the plug-was Toyota thinking the "average-age 55 or so etc" Ava owner would not be changing his/her own oil?
Anyway it looks like the transmission oil drain plug needs a hex wrench- a rather large one- I'd guess at least 3/8 to 1/2.
Sorry to tell you that the 98 did not have depowered airbags.
My 98 had the creaking noise in the struts. Was fixed under warranty but still creaked for another week , then quit. Good news
The Avalon is no BMW. On paper, 200-210 hp sounds good and it is, for effortless cruising at higher speeds. (Whispering--I ran my 98 up to
122 mph in the desert in third gear). Unfortunately the engine torque curve means you really have to spool this engine up to get better acceleration, and as stated by an earlier contributor, each shift throws the Avalon way behind its torque curve. Any good running Dodge pick-up can shut you down at a stop light or a toll booth. The tranny always performed well in everyday driving and after all , this is Toyota's answer to a Buick.
When my lease was up I decided not to get another because I wanted more zip (5 speed auto), side curtain air bags, and a black leather interior. None of which the Avalon can provide.
Folks, this was a good people hauler that was topss in quality and reliability. Just understand it's intended market target.
I spoke to several people who were interested in the car and told them my experiences with mine. Most seemed very happy with the car and would most likely buy one.
Love mine....hope they get a good one too.
Brian M.
Also, try "beverly hills motoring accessories."
Keep in mind-I was told they are vehicle specific. They are NOT! It is a generic pattern that will closely fit your Avalon. They work great. . .I was just expecting a "Tailor" fit.
I am in the Gulf States area so mine came with all the "fluff" including the Toyoguard. I see no real benefit to it except for the product that came with the car from Toyota....by far one of the better waxes that I have used.
Enjoy.....its a great car.
Even put it on my Hondas. My '99 Av just turned 52,000 miles...no repairs so far. Get 29 mpg on the road. Has the right front strut thump-a-thump sound on a washboard road - but who cares. What a car! Will be looking at the '02 models when the time comes. Av's are pricey, but, quality is never cheap. Enjoy.
You can also get the touch-up paint as well. Years ago, every new toyota came with a can of touch-up paint, however with the advent of clear-coat, etc...that is pretyy impossible now.
Well, I am not looking forward to periodically having the rotors turned to eliminate glazing, and I am very skeptical about the explanation provided by the service manager. To my knowledge, this issue has not come up previously at this web site (though I must admit, I haven't done an exhaustive search). Could the ABS brake system be a factor? I would appreciate any feedback on this issue.
#1 of 2 Avalon #67 (Kymemmie/Marg) by ovlee Feb 09, 2001 (07:16 pm)
Hi Marg: Your question about vinyl mats: I have for years made my own, from clear vinyl carpet protector material, available at Wal-Mart and such. I take the mats out and mark the size with Marks-alot and then cut 'em out with (tough) scissors. It's a little trouble, but I enjoy doing it, and it certainly saves the original mats. I "bolt" them together with nuts/bolts/washers (about 1/2 inch is right). The driver's side mat has the handy "hook" attached to the frame(?) which obviates the left fastening on that mat. Being clear, they, to me, are nicer than anything you can buy....Oliver Lee
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tiles in your bathroom.
This is one of those ..."Hey Joe, here comes
another one... lets get him...."
Since rotors grind against break shoes, often, in
high temps, it is normal that they are smooth and
shiny. Acutally and opposite, it is a real problem when they have circular ridges going thru them. Then you need them turned and shoes replaced.
If you still feel uneasy, take the car home, pull
the wheels off and used some fine sand paper and
rub the rotos with it. Shine (glaze) will dissapear. Needless to say, that after two-three
drives, the glaze will re-appear.
Did he give you the special $149 price ?
By the way, the Toyota dealer didn't charge for turning the rotors (based on the warranty). So, I'm not sure why all this happened. My wife thinks that because she brought the car in for the servicing, she as a woman wouldn't be expected to ask questions. Could it have been a ploy to show her they were on top of potential problems with the car and thus reinforce her willingness to keep bringing the car in for servicing? That doen't make a lot of sense to me. Could it be a setup to charge for turning the rotors in the future? That seems crazy too. Oh well, it's not worth wasting any more time on this. I will find another place to service the car. Thanks again.
Brace yourself, 'cause I think the Tundra and Avalon share the same rack.
Additionally, the rebuild dealer gives lifetime warranty on all racks except this one (one year -a clue?).
Another item to look for are the bearings at the top of your front struts. They have a tendancy to fail, noisy when they do and this may solve some of the noise problems in the front end.
Just remember it's a machine and they wear out, a friend of mine restores and shows older cars and as he says "the worst cars built today are better than the best cars built back then"
About a month ago, I started experiencing a scraping sound from the front tire wheel well after I had gone through a dip at speed or rolled through a dip entering a highway. This sound didn't happen when I went over rough roads or hit a pot hole. I did have a significant rattle in the dash though.
I took the car into the Plano Toyota service department (Plano is a suburb of Dallas, TX) and talked with James Wood. I mention this because I had read some horror stories in these forums relating to Toyota dealers and warranty work. They had the car back that afternoon after replacing the front struts and pulling the dash off. No arguments, no "I don't hear anything" or, "That's the nature of that model." They just fixed it. The lack of argument on the struts leads me to believe that Toyota is aware that the front struts are not up to snuff, because James said something to the effect that they had added heavier duty struts than the originals.
They fixed the rattle in the dash, but not the scraping sound. It wasn't quite as bad, but still there, sounding the worst on the drivers side. Looks like the struts weren't the culprits in this case.
I didn't have time to take the car back for a few weeks. The dash rattle came back and I finally had some time to run it by and give them another crack at it. James went for a ride with me. We picked up on the dash rattle right away, but the scraping sound was much harder to reproduce. We finally found a spot right turning into a parking lot (small dip) that finally showed the problem.
James gave me a brand new loaner (9 miles on the odo) and took the car in. It took three days, but they finally took care of the problems. They even had me come back and take a drive with the quality manager to make sure I was satisfied.
They had taken apart the dash completely and tightened every bolt in there. They also made sure all of the wire harnesses were secure (a couple had not been when they opened it up.) As for the scrape, there seemed to be a plastic liner piece that had loosened up in the wheel well that would scrape the tire under certain conditions. They tightened it up and it seems like the sound is gone. I tested it at a known problem site by my house and it worked just fine, no noise. To top it off, they washed and waxed it:-)
I found James and the whole service department to be pleasant, courteous, informative and honest. They seemed to really care that I was happy with the service. James called me on a fairly regular basis to keep me up to date on progress. He even called me to let me know they hadn't found the problem yet, but were working on it. That's great service and I have to say that they did an outstanding job. Everything you buy has the potential for problems. It's how a company treats you when that problem pops up, that counts.
Thus ends my report. I love the Avalon after a year of ownership. The car has performed as I have expected and the service has been outstanding when needed. The above mentioned problems are the only ones I have had in the first 21,000 miles. I hope they will be the last, but I'm old enought to know better. It's a good feeling to know there is a good dealership backing me up.
However I've had a few issues and wonder if anyone has had same:
1) While driving very slowly (5-10 mph) in heavy highway traffic, engine coughed and stammered. This continued for about 10 seconds. I had to shift to neutral and race the pedal to prevent stalling.
2) Driver's seat belt folds and jams. Have to manually unfold the belt (a struggle) before use.
3) Radio went on when I turned on the heat (at first I figured I bumped the radio button). However, radio then powered on and off intermittently (wouldn't stay on or off). I suddenly heard very loud Pop sound and radio died entirely. I checked the fuse (#9 located under the hood) and it's fine. Also, other items on the circuit (dome light) are working fine.
Thank you.
Where is the oil filter ?
to the dealership (where I purchased the car)
to have it changed ($25). Since they did not meet
29' minute gurantee,next one is free. Given it some more thoughts, I think I will stick with dealeship as long as the car is under warranty.
Has anyone ever heard of this? Could the lock be loose or something, or could it have been a random radio frequency that triggered the trunk release?
Comments appreciated.
Otherwise, I am loving this elegant car!
Thanks,
I'm thinking my next car will not be Toyota any more after four Toyota.
Is this a good deal?
Has this paid off for anyone?
I have 30 days to get my money back if I decide I don't want it.
I'm worried that the fine print has a lot of subjective language that could allow Toyota to back out of covering.
The insurance was not thru GM but some independent place (bought it at the time of purchasing the car at the dealership). When the car broke few times (after 3 year warranty) I took it to my mechanic,paid him and then got money back from insurance within a month or so,no hassle. I liked it since I've known my mechanic for over 7 years and I wished I could have taken my car under 3 year warranty to him. Those bozos at dealership are most of the times clueless.
Last Dec. I bough 2001 XL avalon. I did not buy extended as I don't expect this car to break often. If I feel that the car is not as reliable as it supposed to be, I will buy insurance from the same place next year or so.
In summary there are few things to consider. If I was you and had no clue who drove the car before and how it was taken care off, I would buy the insrance but would not necessarily go to a dealer to have it serviced if this was am option.
You can by a new Lexus ES300 for just over 30K., and a 3 year old LS400 for about the same. Both vehicles have the highest quality, lowest defect rates and best reliability records in their classes and are top notch. You can get the service records for ANY Lexus at ANY dealership, since they have a nationwide computer system.
There's a good reason that GM is losing market share in every class they sell in. You may have been lucky with your Bonnevilles, but statistics aren't on your side.
Reliability and performance for all of these models is proven--and build quality is second to none. (The Toyota plant in Kentucky where they build Avalons is an Industry benchmark, incidentally).
No doubt you will see negative comments about Toyota products--there are bound to be some who are harder to please than most. The bottom line is that Toyota's record speaks for itself for the most part--polls and consumer feedback confirm this.
For what it's worth, we have an ES300 and an Avalon XLS. Both are great--not one problem after 50000 combined miles, and none expected.
What you buy is your decision, but you can be assured that odds are you'll have less problem with a Toyota product than most others, IMHO.
Good luck, regardless.