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Door panel removal

rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
I apologize if this topic appears elseware. I'd like to remove the top half of my driver's side door panel if that's possible to take a look at the locking mech. since it's started to only operate intermitenly. I'm thinking loose wire or corrosion. I only see one screw on the left edge and removing that does hardly anything. Anyone done this and what's the trick? Thanks.


  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 5,012
    As I recall (I'm too lazy to actually look it up or walk out and poke around in the car in our miserable weather), there are 3 screws along the bottom edge of the door panel, plus which you need to pull up the little cover in the door pull, which gives access to two screws. There's a little trim panel around the inside door handle that needs to come out.

    Once all that's done, you can begin (carefully) pulling the panel away from the door. The whole thing comes off as one piece. There is no such thing as removing the top half. Then you get to unplug the electric connector & set the panel aside.

    If your LS is an early one, you'll get good at this if you keep it long enough. If the window regulator doesn't pack it in, the inside handle will.

    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    OK I got the door panel off or I should say I have the bottom open. I've tried jerking all the wire connectors around to see if there is a loose connection but no luck. I still have intermentent operation of the driver's side lock with either the remote or the switch on the door. Although I can see everything on the back of the door I don't see what operates the lock. Is it a motor or a relay? I would try hitting it with a hammer. (grin)
  • Auto has started to surge at idle and sometimes it dies. I scanned out the check engine light and replaced items suggested. Same prolem and same indications and same OBDII code. I have replaced Spark plugs, O2 sensors and fuel filter.I found oil in #1 and #6 spark plug cavities. I corrected oil leak problem with new valve cover gaskets. Problem persists. Any suggestions and do you know where I can get a Vacuum line drawing for this vehicle?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Replace the COPS (coil on plug).
  • Replacing cops did not fix problem. There is a recall on vacuum leaks that seems like the most likely fix. Will let you know.
  • I have corrected my problem with my LS. It was surging at idle . I have seen several such reported problems on this site. My correction was a short ninety degree piece of rubber hose connecting to the PVC valve. It deteriorates either caused by engine heat of manufacture defect. It is located below the intake manifold. there is an upper and a lower manifold. the lower one is located directly below the upper. It is black plastic and is secured by 4 bolts. You will see the PVC valve screwed into the oil seperator in the center of the block. Do not spend your money buying COPS. This advice is a bunch of bunk.
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    Gentlemen, if I remember correctly, the V-6 engine has a PCV, while I have yet to find one on my '00 V-8 equipped car. The V-8, however, is known for COP issues, although, thank God, I haven't experienced any issues with mine.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
  • Thanks ... this worked great.

    I found that you can open the door when the latch is broken by pulling on the lock with one hand and the latch with the other simultaneously. You can actually get away with not replacing the latch until the lock breaks!

  • garthmangarthman Posts: 42
    Mostly, the coils on the spark plugs don't fail but the valve cover gaskets do. The doughnut type gaskets that fit beneath the spark plug wells fail and seep oil into the spark plug well area. Since the coil is just above the spark plug and the connection is with a spring wound type wire and boot, the spark finds a better connection with the pool of oil around the spark plug and, there you have a misfire or miss. This occurs with the factory Ford gaskets so, either get the updated ones or purchase Felpro, Victor or some other better brand that knows how to make good gaskets that won't leak/seep.

    Once this is done, flush the spark plug wells clean with solvent and rag then blow them dry with an air hose. Reassemble and now if you find a miss, it's likely a coil or COP. If the gaskets are not replaced first, you will go through many coils never fixing the problem only, disturbing the spark path temporarily until the energy field finds the pool of oil again.

    5 years late but worth the wait for those who need this information.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    Wow - you must have borrowed Mr. Peabody's wayback machine..........
  • garthmangarthman Posts: 42
    Yes, I recently got a recharge of energy as I recently replaced two window regulators. I did some research and found, Dorman Products, designs their nylon sliders much differently than the Ford design. According to my plastic injection mold friend, the Ford design has 90 degree corners rather than radius designs which is just asking for a crack to begin. Also, Dorman has thicker nylon reinforcements.

    Amazon.com has them for about $50 each without the motor as I wanted to continue using the original ones to maintain the same sound and speed so the global window feature performs equally as it had.

    Now for a clock spring, advance trac/abs module and upper timing chain tensioners, yuk.
  • 3dx3dx Posts: 3
    edited September 2013
    Thanks for the info on window regulators. I did both rears shortly after purchasing used 2001 V8 LS. My next issue is advance/trac warning light has been coming on and my air bag warning light came on. Looks like air bag warning lamp has burned out and now when car is started it beeps 5 beeps repeated 5 times. Any suggestions would be appreciated. What would be my first step in diagnosing advance/trac?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,062
    AdvanceTrac is probably a wheel speed sensor failure - pretty common on all vehicles. Probably need a tool to diagnose it unless you find one damaged.

    A common cause of the airbag warning light is the harness under the driver's seat. The 5 beeps could be due to the airbag warning light being burned out. You didn't swap out the gauge cluster, did you? If you did that will cause beeping if the cluster isn't re-programmed by a dealer.
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