Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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I was almost ready to sign the deal when I got a call from my finance buddy who called me an idiot for putting ANY money down other than min requirred. (Sec, acq, fees)
Don't ask why I wanted to put the $7500 company allownce down, it was by itself a sound decision based on tax benefits.
HOWEVER, here is the question.
If the car gets totaled or stolen and there is a complete loss, won't I lose all the money I put down?
My insurance and the Gap insurance in the Acq fee take care of the leasing company but I get screwed unless the loss happens in the last month.
Am I missing something? If the loss happens a few months into the lease, what is available to protect my $12,500 down payment?
I realize putting the whole 12,500 is a monthly benefit to me inthe amount of $347 as far as lowering my monthly payment. So if the loss happens in month 2, I loss the 12,500 less (2 X 347).
Won't the leasing company make out on a total loss under these parameters?
DL
Your assessment is correct.. Lease downpayments are basically forfeited, if the car is totaled or stolen during the lease.. The GAP insurance makes sure that the owner of the car (the bank) is paid off, but usually does nothing for you..
In the case of a very large downpayment, the ACV of the car may be more than the payoff, and there may be some money that comes back to you... but, in that case, the GAP insurance isn't an issue, and you are still likely to lose a large chunk of cash...
The bank will be covered under a total loss, but won't likely ever come out ahead.
regards,
kyfdx
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Let's say our hypothetical buyer is a bad negotiator, and only gets $1000 off MSRP.. Once he rolls in the acq.fee and some other garbage, his gross cap cost is $50K, and the residual is $30K. Instead of putting nothing down and having a payment of $755, our buyer makes a $5K cap cost reduction, resulting in a net cap cost of $45K.. thus lowering his payment to $605.
Three months later, his "used" '06 530i is stolen... The lease balance is $43,250.. The insurance company says the actual cash value of a used '06 530i is $43K (pick any number here). The GAP insurance kicks in the extra $250 to payoff the lease company, and the lessee has spent a grand total of $6815 to lease a car for 3 months...
If he had made no cap cost reduction, the payoff would have been about $48,300.. the GAP insurance would have kicked in the $5300 difference to the bank, and his total to lease the car for 3 months would have just been the 3 payments of $755, or $2265.. His loss attributable to making the cap cost reduction would be $4550...
regards,
kyfdx
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When you put 12.5K down, the bank has that much LESS at risk. However, the car is still valued the same. The insurance company of the leasee would cover what it would cost to replace the car new less a depreciation factor. This has to be an amount that would exceed what the bank put up and had at risk.
Also, if no money was placed down, the insurance company would do the same deal and because of depreciation, the bank may lose. That is when the gap insurance would make up the difference.
There has to be something that exist to protect the leasee who puts down a large downpayment.
PP 49000
Down 12,000
Tot Cap 37000 (this is what bank/finance company gives to car dealer)
36 months
450/month
COMPLETE LOSS month 3
Leasee would have paid approx 13,350 (12,000 + 1350 )
Leasee insurance company replaces car for 49000 les 3 month depriciation of about 4000. Bank/Lease company get check from leasee insur company for 45000. The insurance company would have to cover atleast this amount. The bank only had a total of 37000 in the car. Any loss of lease payments would be made up by the gap insur. Therefore, the bank ends up with 8000 more than what they put up.
Should'nt the bank send the 8000 back to the leasee? Or, can/should the leasee sue the bank for this amount?
DL
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True, if the ACV of the car exceeds the payoff, then the lessee may receive the overage... But, the lessee doesn't own the car, and has no financial interest in it.. The bank only cares about getting the payoff.. So, no incentive for the bank to wring the best possible settlement out of the insurance company..
There is nothing in the lease paperwork that says you are entitled to any of your downpayment back..
Plus, in this scenario, GAP insurance doesn't enter the picture.. GAP insurance only covers a shortfall in the payoff to the lease company.. No shortfall, no claim on the GAP insurance..
Using a $12K downpayment in my example above? If the ACV of the car is $43K, and the payoff is $37K, then you'll still have spent the same $6800 to lease the car for three months.. Even if they return the $6K difference to you (which is not a given), you are still out the same amount..
It is analogous to trading your car in after only owning it three months.. How much do you think you'll lose? By not making a cap cost reduction, you don't have to worry about it... GAP insurance will make up any shortfall.
regards,
kyfdx
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However, I said I was primarily putting down so much becasue of a onetime tax benefit related to the down payment my company is providing. If I keep it and draw from it monthly, I will take a tax hit that will only reduce the overall benefit.
If not for this tax benefit, I'd not consider putting a penny more than the standard amount.
If your are financing longer than 36 months and have less than 30% down plus sales tax you probably need GAP......of course there are exceptions to everything but this has been a good guide for us.
Like Terry mentioned earlier, it's a small price to pay for the protection of being forced to pay out $$$$ when you may need it the most.
I've read a few of them and I wont name companies but one I read for a very popular carrier: GAP = Wholesale bluebook + 25%
So gap isnt always what you think it is, meaning cover your loan amount. The best place to buy gap coverage is when you get the loan. But always read what your buying when it comes to gap, because there is no firm definition of that coverage.
It is the greater of ACV or (loan balance minus deductible).
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/finance/articles/105266/article.html
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2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Big money down only accomplishes one thing --- it lowers the payment .. it doesn't lower the residual, it doesn't lower the pay-off, it doesn't lower the rate and it won't lower your voice ..... if this bad boy gets whacked in 20 months, you get Zip .. if this stud gets stolen in 25 months, you get Zippity Do Dah .. if you decide to trade or sell it in 30 months, you will get a kiss and a handshake, and maybe a "thanks for stopping by" .. that's about it .....
Terry. :shades:
I believe the verbiage also requires you to keep making your lease payment, until the claim is settled.
I think, in theory, you would get any overage, but since you rolled in negative equity, I wouldn't think that it is likely that the market value would exceed payoff.
regards,
kyfdx
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Still, unless you total it very early, value exceeding payoff is unlikely.. Technically, I suppose you are entitled to it... but, I wouldn't count on it..
regards,
kyfdx
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Yikes .........! .. $4,000.? ... leasing is like renting, you don't own it .... the $4 grand only lowered the payment for the length of the lease, no equity, no value .. you might as well just lite the money and cooked some good hot dogs with it .......
Terry
Nice car... good luck!!
kyfdx
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I don't get some people...
Is it too late for me to get GAP insurance since it 1 yr and 4 months now.
It is Infiniti Financial
G35 coupe 04
Thank you :confuse:
Than Danf1
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You put $5K as a "down payment"...but does it not depend on the rate of depreciation of your vehicle???...I think a good example might be what I own, a Crown Vic...I am sure it depreciates like a rock...even with $5K down, I would bet that the car depreciates faster in 3 years than the paydown on the lease...just my thought...
Once again, ins is to protect us from risk of payouts we cannot afford...if we can afford them, then gap ins is a waste of $$$...if we are afraid of getting stuck with a $4,5 or 7K payout, then a $400 gap ins premium makes much sense...as long as you make an INFORMED decision, I wish you well...just don't make a decision based on suppositions, when knowledge is available...
Example: most folks know that "mortgage life insurance" from the Lender is overpriced and puts biig fees in the lender's pocket...better to buy your own general term policy to cover you for death and you can buy much more with the same premium dollar...BUT, if you are 100 pounds overweight, or severe diabetes, individual life policies may not insure you, but most mortgage life policies do not have a physical, and they accept almost anybody...so, if you want your spouse to receive the house debt-free, mortgage life is a great idea if you cannot qualify for any other life ins...
My question was toward my purchase -- not a lease. $5k down and 0% financing for 36 months. So if a differential exists, I'm paying it down $600 every month. I think that differential will be $0 pretty quick.
If you have a high differential, I think gap insurance makes sense regardless of how much you have in the bank -- it's all a question of risk/reward.
My question was mainly to clairfy for myself that gap insurance doesn't help you when you put down a large enough down payment.
If your down payment, plus your monthly payments, pay down the loan at the same rate that the car depreciates, gap will do you nothing...no gap, no need for gap ins...
Whether lease or purchase, gap is really the same...and, since SO MANY folks have 4,5, or 6 year loans, gap for them is "mandatory" (or should be) because their vehicle are depreciating like rocks (exceptions, as always: Mercedes, Lexus, BMW, Corvette, and all the other cars that maintain their value, but an ordinary Ford, GM, DC will be worth half by the third year) and their loans are barely falling like feathers...
Do I definitely have gap insurance from Nissan Motors Acceptance? I've heard differing opinions, but a dealership I stopped by today read my contract and said I do. I'm asking because I'm about $5,000 upside down on the car.
Thanks.
This would be 100% cured if the lenders would not loan over 70% of a car's value, requiring a 30% down payment...then the rapid depreciation would not over take the amount owed on the loan because of the equity position in the car...
But, a 30% down payment would mean that 10 million cars would be sold annually instead of 17 million...so, it is better to protect the consumer from their own stupidity by forcing them to buy gap, just as they force you to buy liability ins...
I am amazed at the number of folks who would drop their ins if the law allowed, using the logic "well, I am a good driver, so I won't cause an accident"...which is why they call them...accidents...
paid off 5-2005. desperate