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Several of us are trying to figure out the Lexus lease numbers. Here's what I learned at the dealership today. I'm copying a message I sent to Borg over on the GX 470 board:
"Just got back from the dealer and here is what they quoted me on a GX470 with everything but rear entertainment system and tow hitch. MSRP = 52240 and there was no discussion of any discount. For a 39 month with 12k/year, the residual was 57% and the money factor was .00260. For 15k/year, the residual was 55% and the money factor was .0026. I think Car Man had given me 58% residual for 12k/year and money factor of .0023. They also quoted a refundable security deposit of $500 and acquisition fee of $600 paid at signing along with sales tax. They quoted a monthly payment of $796/month on the 12k/year and $816/month on the 15k/year.
Car Man, do these numbers look right to you ... could you confirm? I ran them and they came pretty close.
thanks,
gene
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Thanks, I test drove the car again this weekend along with the A6 3.0. The #'s on the A6 3.0 Quattro were Residual of .51 with MF of .00075 (1.8%) and the quote was right on the TMV for this vehicle. I guess they are 'incented' to move this car!
Also, to confuse matters I stopped by the BMW dealership on the way home and test drove the 525ia and the 530ia, what are the Residuals and MF's for 36 month / 15k/year on these vehicles in CT?
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http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Boa- rd=FX45&Number=67263718&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=- 5&o=&fpart=1
An FX35 AWD 48 month lease (12000 year) will have a residual value of 45% and a money factor of .00186.
Thanks for all the pointers. Looks like I might take this offer which has gotten slightly better since last time.
2800 down (incl security, first month, acq fee and doc fee - my down payment is only $650 excluding all other things I must pay for)
MSRP of 36195 (325Xi with 5sp, PP, SP, metallic, CWP and leatherette)
1200 down from dealer on MSRP
Residual of 60%
36/15000 lease
Tax rate is 7% in MN
MF is 195
I have a quote of 469/mo including taxes which looks good. I might take it.
Pavan
Thanks!
Also, just to clarify, your current payment and downpayment have no bearing on whether you will have equity at the end of your lease. These 2 factors do not change what the payoff (or buyout) amount is.
I would recommend that a few months before your lease is due you start researching what similar models are selling for in your area. If it looks like they are selling for a significant amount above your lease buyout amount then consider selling it privately to reap any equity. If they appear to be selling at or below your buyout amount then just turn it in at lease end and start fresh on the minivan.
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Unfortunately making a large down payment on a leased vehicle does nothing to establish any equity in it. Down payments on leases only serve to reduce the amount of interest that the lessee will pay over the length of the lease. A car's lease-end purchase price will be exactly the same whether one has made a $5,000 down payment on it or no down payment at all. So the fact that you made such a large down payment when you leased your Corolla will not make it any less expensive to buy when your lease is up. This is one of the reasons why I advise consumers not to put money down on leases.
In order to figure out if your car is worth more than your purchase option price, call the bank that you are leasing it through and ask them exactly how much money it will cost you to buy your car. Keep in mind that they may be willing to negotiate on this price a little bit. Once you have this figure compare it to what it is worth on the open market, by looking up its True Market Value here at Edmunds.com. If there is a large enough difference between these two values, in your favor of course, then you may want to consider trying to buy your Corolla and trade it in or sell it on your own. Of course, more often than not consumers purchase prices are not nearly low enough to justify purchasing their leased vehicles and they just turn them in and walk away.
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Cap Cost (already negotiated this at dealer)=$38150
Residual=62% per info previously posted
Money Factor=.00150 per info posted
MSRP=$39,395
38,150 - (39,395 X .62)= 13,725 (total depreciation)
13,275/36 = 381 (monthly depreciation)
(38150 + (39,395 X .62)) .00150 = 94 (monthly interest)
Total pre-tax payment=381 + 94= $475
Is this correct? If so I am thrilled.
What should I expect in terms of "Upfront fees"?
Thanks again!!!
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Kind regards,
Tom
My problem is that the buy out is $21K! Even if I offer to purchase at $11,500 which I consider to be market value is this even sane to do? I was in an accident a couple of years ago and the insurance repaired the car. Will this count against me in damages too?
I have no idea if I should turn this car in or buy it out to avoid penalties! Help!
One of the attributes of my deal is that, since I ordered the car and it will not arrive until April, the money factor is locked from upward movement, but can be adjusted down if BMWFS reduces their money factor prior to delivery.
In other words, I'll be checking in for Feb, March and April money factors just to keep then honest!
Thanks again, you're the best.
HiC
The leasing company almost certainly will not charge you for wear and tear on the seats or even a small tear, its a 4-year old car and they have to accept normal wear-and-tear. Even small door dings or paint scratches are usually permissible as long as they are not large. So disregard the fraying and pit marks.
Even if you could pay a fair market value for the car, which would take a lot of work, do you want a 4-year-old Saab that's been in an accident? Probably not. It seems much smarter to pay the $3k, walk away, and lease a new car at today's remarkably good lease/finance rates and over the next couple years you'll probably save yourself that $3k in lower payments.
If you lease again, choose a shorter term (3 years) and be realistic about your mileage up-front, its always easier to pay for the extra mileage one month at a time than it is to pay in a lump sum like you must now. If you had originally leased the Saab for 3 years/15k mileages, you would only owe about $1k right now.
Can you please provide residuals and money factors for a Eddie Bauer Expedition 2WD for a 3, 4, and 5 year lease? I am interested in a 12,000 mile per year lease and I am located in the Southern California area.
Thank you.
2003 Audi 1.8T CVT Auto
2003 Mercedes E320 Auto or E500 Auto
This is for Southern California.
Thanks!
I went to a BMW dealer here in Phoenix to get a copy of the lease contract to read. I also asked one of the salesman about the residuals and money factor on the 330 Ci lease. He confirmed the 62% residual, but stated that the 0.0015 money factor was the "buy" price and that 0.0019 is the "sell" price that he could offer me. Also stated the same nonsense for the acquisition fee ($525 "buy", $725 "sell"). He also said a $198.50 "Dealer Documentation Fee" would apply in up-front charges. Finally he mentioned a $350 "termination fee" at the end of the lease, even though the document reads "Closed end" at the top.
I ultimately plan to phone all the area dealers to politely let them know that I will be happy to lease a car from them without all the add-on charges. Today was a fact-finding foray to see what kind of junk they would throw my way. Mission accomplished, I guess.
Is there anything to any of that stuff?
BMW X5 36 month lease (10k/yr)
Residual?
Money Factor?
Thanks!
If you are "right side up" (never seen that usage; everyone always talks about Upside Down, never the other way around...), but don't want to apply all that equity to cap cost reduction on a new lease, will dealer give you cash / check?
I'm able (fortunately) to take advantage of a "supplier purchase" program so cap cost is pre-set @ about invoice. Can I still negotiate other #'s? E.G., moneyfactor, residual, trade, miles/year, $ down
Car_Man, any thoughts as to what MF NMAC (Nissan) would give on 2003 Altima, 2.5 SL trim? How about residual percentage? This will help figure #'s in advance.
LBNL, anything else I should know / avoid? Think I've done homework, but still worried...
Thanks to all! I'm amazed at the knowledge on these boards.
-Squirrel
By dealer doc fee, does he mean the DMV paperwork? I think its normal to charge something for that, generally, but not sure what an appropriate charge is in your area.
I would make the guy a firm offer at the "buy" rate and let him take a profit on the sales price instead, I doubt they'd turn it down. Esp. since the 330Ci is being replaced very shortly by a newer model, they should be damn motivated to move them.
There's probably also a deposit up-front. Some dealers will drop the deposit and increase the MF somewhat, maybe that's what he's doing here, offering 0.0019 and no deposit? Normally BMW deposites are monthly rounded up to the nearest $100 I believe. Unless you're a repeat-customer, then they waive it.
What are your thoughts on popping for the '03 with the 04's about to be released? I am going for the '03 because I easily negotiated $1750 (for the 330 coupe) and $1200 (for the 330 sedan) over invoice. This is substantially under Edmund's TMV even with a small "advertising fee" added on. I perceive that this nice a deal will not be available on the '04 coupes for a few months after their April or May release. Plus there might be production delays. Also the MF is so low now for the '03's, and this might not be the case for the '04's.
Other than the addition of the manual six, the changes for the '04 seem very minimal to me. I ain't woried about resale, other than the high Residual for the lease, because I will be wanting the newest thang BMW has on the lot in 36 months. The '04's will not hold their value any better because of the new design for the 3'eres that will be out in a late 05-06.
Does anybody have the numbers for what the MF and RV will be for the '04's?
Kind regards,
Tom
I would like to know what the 24 & 36 month residucal value and money factors are for both the 2003 CTS and DeVille DTS with 12K miles/year for Feb.
I live in NJ if that makes a difference.
Thanks in advance Car_man....you give us the knowledge to take on the F&I guy at the dealerships and walk away with a fair lease deal...Keep up the great work!
NJCarguy
This message board has always been soooo helpful.
It's now time for the Wife to get a new car. Looking for Money Factors and Residual Values on both a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 Stantard, and 2003 Ford Focus Sedan SE with Ford Credit Tier 1 in zip code 14072. We're looking to go with the "New" Red Carpet Option. The dealer said "It's better than" the standard RCL.
Thanks, Patrick
I went to a local Saab dealer to discuss the national offer on a 9-3 Linear 36 month lease($999 due at lease/includes $205 down, $0 security, $495 acq fee, $299 1st, tax title & license extra). I was told none existed in our state (WI) and was presented with a lease offer in the $399-425 range for same car w/the "launch package"(infotainment center, On-star, 6 disc cd, moonroof, alloys) I balked at this and as I was leaving was presented with a generous offer. At least I thought so. After reading many posts here, I think I should learn more about FMV, MF and residuals.
The new offer is: $300/mo, $1300 down, includes 1st, and balance towards the down, 10K miles, 48 mo.
While I think this seems like an aggressive offer, what should I know about FMV, MF, and residuals? BTW, I would like to get 12K miles on a 36 mo lease.
Thanks!
Still puzzled by many details of leasing, though I feel pretty good overall. Okay, can someone please answer these?
-When using an advertised lease on a specific model (eg, Altima 2.5 S), can that MF and RV% be used on another trim line (eg, 2.5 SL)? Fine print allows for options, but I don't know about this.
-Also with one of these adv. leases, can you take advantage of a supplier purchase program for the cap cost, not the cost in the lease offer?
Many thanks in advance,
Squirrel
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As far as all of the excess mileage that you have on your car goes, if I was in your situation, I definitely would place a call to the bank that you are leasing it through and see if they would be willing to lower their purchase price for it. You may have to work your way up the corporate ladder a few rungs before you find anyone who has the authority to work with you though. Of course, there certainly is no guarantee that they will be willing to lower your lease-end purchase price but it definitely is worth a shot. If not, then you may just be better off paying your $3,xxx in excess mileage fees and walking away from your car. I am sorry that there is not a less expensive solution to your problem. Think of it this way, had you leased your car with 15,000 miles per year or purchased excess mileage at the beginning of your lease you still would have had to pay for these miles, it just wouldn't have come with the shock of having to pay it all at one time.
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As far as the Documentation Fee goes, most dealerships charge consumers some sort of similar fee. It basically is just added profit, but if you feel as though the total price that you are paying for the car that you are interested in (including this fee) is good, then it doesn't really matter how they break it down. The lease termination fee, or disposition fee as it is sometimes known, is a legitimate charge that many banks assess their lessees with. BMW Financial Services' lease disposition fee is currently $350, so this fee is completely legit.
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What's the MF and residuals for his '03 Civic LX 2 door? I dont know if its an auto or manual or if it has side air bags.
Thanks.
As far as the negotiations for your next vehicle go, as you stated in your post vehicles' purchased through supplier purchase programs are usually at a set price so you don't really have to worry about the price of the vehicle that you want. Dealers can mark up certain aspects of leases, like the lease money factor and acquisition fee, in order to add additional profit to deals. However, I believe that in most instances dealers many not mark up these items when writing up employee or supplier leases. Just to be on the safe side, I would be more than happy to give you an idea of what the lease money factor, residual value, and acquisition fee for the Nissan Altima that you are interested in should be like. However, first I am going to need you to tell me exactly what model you are getting, i.e. 2.5 S, 3.5 SE V6, etc..., the length of time that you want to lease it for, and the number of miles per year that you will need to be able to drive without having to pay a lease-end penalty. Once I have this additional information I should be able to help you out. Nissan's current lease program is scheduled to expire tomorrow, so if you want info on their February program check back with me towards the end of the week. I should have an idea of what their new program is like by then.
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