Lease Questions - Ask Here

glk1

Hi:

I'm considering trading in my QX4 (2002) for 2005 g35x lease. The local dealer has g35x w/o premium package but with some dealer add ons with a sticker price of 34610. He then has a "discount" to 32945. MSRP is 32800 w/o add-ons. Invoice is 30, 167. As of yesterday, there are 5 or 6 of these on the lot. (Also has a couple with premium pack).

Lease deal being offered has bid downpayment $4700, 10K miles (which is fine for me); 3 years, residual 59% . Rules in monthly payment of $330.

I have a few questions, and would appreciate thoughts on any of them. (I haven't leased before) This would be my 3d infiniti.

1. Does leasing affect the price received by the dealer? If not, shouldn't I be able to get close to invoice on the sales price? (Is is common to ignore the add ons, which I wouldn't have requested?)

2. I think there may be some funny business with the lease offer. I would have expected a residual with at least a 12 K lease. Apparently the actual residual experience of the G35s is about 61%. By reducing the lease to 10K, is the dealer just trying take an excess profit on the back end? (Note: 10K is fine for me, but should it result in a higher residual than a 12K?)

3. Alternatively, the dealer may be playing games with the interest rate on the lease. He indicated that the apr for the lease was $2.5% (which translate to a money factor of
.00105). Is it possible to disguise a higher interest rate by deflating the residual?

4. What is the likelihood of getting the blue book value on my trade in. The infinity dealer has already offered 17K. (Sales agent said that they took of 1k because is needs a bit of reconditioning. I think this is BS. The reason bluebook is less than private sale estimates is to account for reconditioning costs.) I have an offer of 18K from a Nissan dealer. Blue book is 18.5 K. (My QX4 has less than 30K miles. Comparable dealer pricing seems between 24 and 26K, so even at blue book he has plenty of room).

Thanks for any thoughts. I have posted this on some infiniti threads, but this seems to be the most active.

Best,

glk

CarMan@Edmunds

Here is the information that you are looking for cmks02. According to the latest information that I have seen, if you were to lease a 2006 Freestyle Limited, FWD, w/o Nav through Ford Credit right now for 24 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base lease rate and residual value should be 2.0% and 65%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 36 month lease should be 3.0% and 54%. The numbers for an otherwise identical 36 month lease should be 5.0% and 47%, respectively.

If you were to lease a 2006 Explorer Limited 2WD through Ford Credit right now for 24 months with 12,000 miles per year, its base lease rate and residual value should be 2.75% and 59%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 36 month lease should be 4.0% and 50%. The numbers for an otherwise identical 36 month lease should be 5.25% and 40%, respectively.

When negotiating your leases on these trucks, make sure to take the $2,000 lease cash that is available on the '06 Explorer and $500 on the '06 Freestyle into account.

Car_man
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CarMan@Edmunds

Hi dpav. Different states use different methods for calculating sales tax on leased vehicles. There are three main methods of doing so (I suppose that you could say that there are four if you count the states that don't charge sales tax at all). In the first, the state taxes the payment and down payment. Most states, including Florida, Georgia, Missouri, Connecticut, and California use this method. The second way is to tax the entire selling price of the vehicle. This is how sales tax is calculated on leases in states like Illinois, Texas, and now Ohio. Lastly, some states only tax the depreciation portion of leases. This is tax is calculated on leased vehicles in New Jersey.

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CarMan@Edmunds

Hi Ning. I believe that I already answered this question for you over in the specific Honda Accord Lease Questions discussion that appears on the Prices Paid Board. Please check there for my response.

Car_man
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CarMan@Edmunds

Hello glk1. Let me begin by saying that $4,700 is way too much money to put down when leasing. I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for your Infiniti would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $4,700 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all. If you really want to trade in your QX4, have the dealer that you are working with cut you a check for it rather than using the proceeds as a capitalized cost reduction for your lease.

You should be able to negotiate the same price on the G35 AWD Sedan that you are interested in as if you had paid cash or financed it. You need to do some more negotiating if you feel as though you should be able to get this car at invoice.

Dealers do not have the authority to alter banks' published residual values to add additional profit to deals. The only advantage that this dealer derives from making this a 10,000 miles per year lease instead of 12,000 or 15,000 is that the monthly payment is lower.

Infiniti Financial Services' current buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month, 10,000 miles per year lease of a 2005 G35 AWD Sedan should be .00094 and 59%, respectively. This car's money factor would be higher if you were having your security deposit or IFS acquisition fee waived.

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skoontz

Car_man,

I live in Texas. Given that I have to pay tax on entire selling price of vehicle, what do you recommend?

1) Roll into cap cost
2) Pay entire tax up-front at inception

With 1), wouldn't you be paying interest on the tax!!!!???

Thanks,
Sean

bobst

You have to pay tax based on the price of the car? But you are only renting it, not buying it? That doesn't seem right to me.

If I rent a car from Hertz for a couple days, I don't pay sales tax based on the price of the car. If you rent (i.e. lease) a car for three years, I don't think you should pay sales tax either.

Of course, I know nothing about leasing, so maybe that is why it seems strange to me.

skoontz

Absolutely doesn't seem right, but I don't make the tax laws in Texas.

This is why I am asking for advice from the forum. How have others in Texas dealt with this aspect of their lease?

Thanks,
Sean

foolsquirrel

Thank you for your reply, Car_man.
I went to the only VW dealership in our town this weekend. The finance manager told me the residual for 36mo/36k was 59%, and tier A money factor was 0.00065, the same numbers you posted. But he said tier A is for customers with credit scores of 740+, or with five "lines of loan history" (I cannot remember the exact term he used). Because my credit score was in the 690's (which is in the right ballpark because I had around 690 earlier this year), and I had never applied for any loan before, I was quoted with a 0.00167 money factor.
My wife and I consider this an ok rate for a first time loan applicant? Do you think this is a good rate? And is this criterion, or similar ones, for top tier credit common among banks?

Thank you.
Ning

tasha789

Hi Car_man,

I am looking to lease a 2006 Saab 9-3, MSRP 30270, Selling price 27454 (GMS employee price), 24 months, 12k mi per year. Can you calculate the money factor and monthly payment for both 24 months and 36 months? Saab has a national advertised rate of 299/month plus 2999 down, but It isn't clear to me how much of that is acquisition cost and fees versus cap cost reduction. I also want to avoid paying money up front as you suggest. Thanks for the help!

foolsquirrel

I just saw that post. Thank you Car_man.

Ning

roosa

The current law in Texas sure enough does require that you pay the 6.25% sales tax on the entire purchase price of the vehicle. The law in some states only requires tax to be paid on the portion that is "used" by the lessee. Also, it some cities there is additional "personal property" tax regardless of whether the vehicle is used for personal or business purposes. Example, I had to pay sales tax on entire purchase price...so I had Honda Finance roll that into my monthly payment. I also live in Midland....so each year I will have to pay personal property tax on my Accord whether I use the Accord for personal or business purposes. Of course it does not make Logical Sense...but I have been a lawyer here for 35yrs and this is just one of a zillion laws we have here in Texas that makes no logical sense. But it is the Law. .....that is why I choose the Accord because the lease support in August made the interest rate less that 1%....afraid you will want to wait until you also can lease at a very low interest rate. Unfortunately, Honda does not presently have any lease support. But some manufacturer will by the first of next year. Best wishes. John Roosa

jnuzzi

Hi,

How can I find out the buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 2006 Honda Civic LX Coupe for a 36 and/or 39 mo. lease with 15,000 miles/yr. in Orlando, FL? Is this information that I can simply ask the salesperson for over the phone? Do I have to visit the dealership to get this info? I am trying to gather as much information as I can BEFORE I go into the dealership to make my purchase/lease.

Thanks!

drh70

Hi Carman,

Looking to Lease a Pilot EXL in Southern California and wanted to see what the residual and money factors were like

2005 model
36 months (or other term if there is a better residual for them)
15k/yr.

Thank you for your help,
Dean

glk1

Hi:

Thanks for your quite helpful reply.

Best,

Gary K.

kmouradian

Car_Man,

Is Chrysler offering any lease support on the 2005 Crossfire Limited with auto trans? Interested in leasing one @ 15k miles year. Any hot 24/36/39 month deals going on for this model? What kind of res. and MF are we looking at? And any lease cash available? Thanks!

Kirstie_H

You might check and/or post in our Crossfire Leasing discussion.

kirstie_h

skoontz

Thank you for the insight.

I'm still looking for someone to share experience/knowledge on whether I should pay sales tax up front or roll into cap cost.

My hypothesis here is that I avoid paying interest on sales tax by paying up front. If this logic is flawed, someone please let me know.

Thanks,
Sean

kyfdx

The interest on the sales tax is minimal... If the sales tax is $2K and the money factor is .0020, then the extra finance charge is $4/mo....

The advantage of rolling it in? The leasing bank pays the sales tax upfront, and the amount you rolled in to the lease payment is converted into debt, no different than the debt incurred for the purchase price.. If your car is totaled or stolen soon after lease inception, the GAP insurance will pay off any debt that your insurance doesn't cover...

If you pay that sales tax upfront, your money is gone....

regards,
kyfdx
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mpgxsvcd

If I live in North Carolina and I want to lease a Mercedes Benz from Virginia will I have to pay Virginia Motor Vehicles Sales and Use Tax? According to statute § 58.1-2403 I would be exempt from “Virginia Motor Vehicles Sales and Use Tax” because it is “Purchased in the Commonwealth by a nonresident and a Virginia title is issued for the sole purpose of recording a lien against the vehicle if the vehicle will be registered in a state other than Virginia;” It will be registered in North Carolina.

Would I only need to pay the North Carolina Tax on the vehicle? See the form below for the details on this tax exemption. Clause 13 on Page two is what is stated above.

https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/webdoc/pdf/sut3.pdf

Here is the North Carolina form that I think I would have to submit for the North Carolina Taxes
http://www.ncdot.gov/download/dmv/VR_MVR608.pdf

The Virginia tax is 4% of the total cap cost. The North Carolina tax is 3% of the total receipts from the lease. I think that is a difference of $1300 vs. $500.

Has anyone else leased a car in Virginia when they live in another state?

kyfdx

@mpgxsvcd said:
If I live in North Carolina and I want to lease a Mercedes Benz from Virginia will I have to pay Virginia Motor Vehicles Sales and Use Tax? According to statute § 58.1-2403 I would be exempt from “Virginia Motor Vehicles Sales and Use Tax” because it is “Purchased in the Commonwealth by a nonresident and a Virginia title is issued for the sole purpose of recording a lien against the vehicle if the vehicle will be registered in a state other than Virginia;” It will be registered in North Carolina.

Would I only need to pay the North Carolina Tax on the vehicle? See the form below for the details on this tax exemption. Clause 13 on Page two is what is stated above.

https://www.dmv.virginia.gov/webdoc/pdf/sut3.pdf

Here is the North Carolina form that I think I would have to submit for the North Carolina Taxes
http://www.ncdot.gov/download/dmv/VR_MVR608.pdf

The Virginia tax is 4% of the total cap cost. The North Carolina tax is 3% of the total receipts from the lease. I think that is a difference of $1300 vs. $500.

Has anyone else leased a car in Virginia when they live in another state?

Actually, the bank that owns the car will pay the sales tax, and they'll pay it in North Carolina, where you reside, no matter where you buy the car. I don't think you'll have to handle any of that paperwork, unless the dealer has you sign something.

mpgxsvcd

@kyfdx@Edmunds said:
Actually, the bank that owns the car will pay the sales tax, and they'll pay it in North Carolina, where you reside, no matter where you buy the car. I don't think you'll have to handle any of that paperwork, unless the dealer has you sign something.

The dealer swore up and down that I would have to pay the Virginia sales tax and that it would cost me an extra $70 a month because it was so much higher. What he was actually doing was gouging me on the money factor and adding thousands of extra dollars in the lease for no reason at all.

I asked for 2% off MSRP and he came up with a cap cost that was $2000 above MSRP. I must have the worst luck in the world or every dealer I have ever been to is a scam artist.

mpgxsvcd

So what should you do if a dealer refuses to talk about the factors of the lease and only wants to talk monthly payment? They have to disclose what all of the fees are correct? The only thing that they don't have to disclose is the money factor if they have never told you a money factor before.

It just seems like every dealer I have talked too hides all kinds of extra fees in the lease and then swears that it was a mistake when you call them on it. They over charge on the taxes, double or even triple charge the Doc Fees, double the money factor, or just outright lie about the actual selling price they used in the calculations.

Now I see why so many people shy away from leases if they don't fully understand them.

mpgxsvcd

@kyfdx@Edmunds said:
Actually, the bank that owns the car will pay the sales tax, and they'll pay it in North Carolina, where you reside, no matter where you buy the car. I don't think you'll have to handle any of that paperwork, unless the dealer has you sign something.

The dealer is still trying to charge me the Tax based on the state where the car is and then he will pocket the $700 difference between the tax he charged me and the value he should have charged me.

kyfdx

I'd just find a different dealer.. I have little patience for that aspect of car shopping.

It's possible... I once negotiated a lease deal with an out-of-town dealer via email. Spoke to the salesperson once via phone, then flew in and completed the deal in about an hour. Exactly as we had agreed.

If I get an iffy feeling from the start. Where they don't want to answer my questions, or seem to have control issues... then, I just move on.

mikekisss

Hi,

Can someone please help me do some calculations for a 2014 Acura TSX. The cap cost of the vehicle is $27,127 (MSRP $31,530) including dealer destination, not including title and license fee. The money factor is 0.00111 and the residual is 60% ($18,918) for 3yr/36k mile lease. The dealer is telling me my monthly payment would be $316 incl. tax (CA= 9%) a month with $1000 down. My calculations show $304.25 with $0 down. Am i missing something? Thanks

kyfdx

@mikekisss said:
Hi,

Can someone please help me do some calculations for a 2014 Acura TSX. The cap cost of the vehicle is $27,127 (MSRP $31,530) including dealer destination, not including title and license fee. The money factor is 0.00111 and the residual is 60% ($18,918) for 3yr/36k mile lease. The dealer is telling me my monthly payment would be $316 incl. tax (CA= 9%) a month with $1000 down. My calculations show $304.25 with $0 down. Am i missing something? Thanks

Your calculations are correct for the figures provided. It's probably just a miscommunication between you and the dealer over terms.

When the dealer says "$1000 down", is that a CAP cost reduction? Or, is $1000 the total amount due at signing? Is $27,127 the actual CAP cost he is using to calculate the lease? Or, is it the selling price, to which the acquisition fee will have to be added?

If you get them break it down, it should be easy to see where the disconnect is.

mpgxsvcd

@kyfdx@Edmunds said:

If you get them break it down, it should be easy to see where the disconnect is.

Getting them to break it down is becoming harder and harder. Every dealer I have been to lately simply refuses to talk about the factors. They are so desperate to make every dime they can that they hide extra fees in there every time I have started to negotiate with them. There are a lot of really dishonest dealers out there. I am sure there are some that aren't. I just haven't found any lately.

mkgcmc

Question about ending a lease early and rolling it into a new lease:

I currently have a 2012 Lexus CT that has 11 months remaining on it. My family is outgrowing it quickly, so I was investigating what options were available for a larger vehicle.

- One dealer valued the car at $22,000. They will use the payoff amount to buy the car in full and then apply the difference from $22,000 to the new lease.

- Another dealer didn't quote a trade value. Instead, they offered to give me a check for the remaining 11 payments. Apparently, I would then pay off the rest of the payments and turn the car in. They would of course roll the 11 payments into the lease.

Is either of these the "typical" option in this scenario? The latter option seems kind of strange to me - the payoff amount of the car is lower than the residual + 11 remaining payments.

Thanks!

Michaell

mkgcmc said:

Question about ending a lease early and rolling it into a new lease:

I currently have a 2012 Lexus CT that has 11 months remaining on it. My family is outgrowing it quickly, so I was investigating what options were available for a larger vehicle.

- One dealer valued the car at $22,000. They will use the payoff amount to buy the car in full and then apply the difference from $22,000 to the new lease.

- Another dealer didn't quote a trade value. Instead, they offered to give me a check for the remaining 11 payments. Apparently, I would then pay off the rest of the payments and turn the car in. They would of course roll the 11 payments into the lease.

Is either of these the "typical" option in this scenario? The latter option seems kind of strange to me - the payoff amount of the car is lower than the residual + 11 remaining payments.

Thanks!

Hmmm.

Your CT, like any car, has a "payoff" value and a "trade" value. I suggest you contact LFS to get the former number and head over to the "Real World Trade in Values" discussion for the latter.

If you have negative equity, you are responsible for it somehow - the easiest solution is to take that balance and roll it into the new lease.

If you have positive equity, congratulations - that's a rare feat with 11 payments left. I would absolutely NOT take the equity and apply it to the new lease; if the new car is stolen or totaled you lose that money. Instead, have the dealer cut you a check for the equity and use it to help make the payments.

I've seen the second approach myself. We had an Expedition on lease that we wanted to get out of early and downsize to an Explorer. Dealer cut us a check for the two remaining payments, which we made to Ford and turned in the Expedition early.

mkgcmc

Michaell said:

Hmmm. Your CT, like any car, has a "payoff" value and a "trade" value. I suggest you contact LFS to get the former number and head over to the "Real World Trade in Values" discussion for the latter.

If you have negative equity, you are responsible for it somehow - the easiest solution is to take that balance and roll it into the new lease.

 If you have positive equity, congratulations - that's a rare feat with 11 payments left. I would absolutely NOT take the equity and apply it to the new lease; if the new car is stolen or totaled you lose that money. Instead, have the dealer cut you a check for the equity and use it to help make the payments.

 I've seen the second approach myself. We had an Expedition on lease that we wanted to get out of early and downsize to an Explorer. Dealer cut us a check for the two remaining payments, which we made to Ford and turned in the Expedition early.

I definitely have negative equity, especially with the low gas prices at the moment. I've obtained the payoff amount from Lexus and gave it to both dealers. Seems like the second just doesn't have any interest in trying to sell it on their lot. 

Michaell

mkgcmc said:

Michaell said:

Hmmm.

Your CT, like any car, has a "payoff" value and a "trade" value. I suggest you contact LFS to get the former number and head over to the "Real World Trade in Values" discussion for the latter.


If you have negative equity, you are responsible for it somehow - the easiest solution is to take that balance and roll it into the new lease.

 If you have positive equity, congratulations - that's a rare feat with 11 payments left. I would absolutely NOT take the equity and apply it to the new lease; if the new car is stolen or totaled you lose that money. Instead, have the dealer cut you a check for the equity and use it to help make the payments.


 I've seen the second approach myself. We had an Expedition on lease that we wanted to get out of early and downsize to an Explorer. Dealer cut us a check for the two remaining payments, which we made to Ford and turned in the Expedition early.

I definitely have negative equity, especially with the low gas prices at the moment. I've obtained the payoff amount from Lexus and gave it to both dealers. Seems like the second just doesn't have any interest in trying to sell it on their lot. 

Guess that dealer will miss out on a sale, then.

sunnyside241

Any suggestions for what's leasing well right now in the mid-size sedan world, or something with comparable size? I'm aiming to spend between $250-300/month (can put money down, but want the payments including that to hit that number if so). Was looking at Accords and Fusions but not loving the offers I've gotten so far which are over $300 for the base models. In NJ, 07040. Thanks!

Michaell

sunnyside241 said:

Any suggestions for what's leasing well right now in the mid-size sedan world, or something with comparable size? I'm aiming to spend between $250-300/month (can put money down, but want the payments including that to hit that number if so). Was looking at Accords and Fusions but not loving the offers I've gotten so far which are over $300 for the base models. In NJ, 07040. Thanks!

Camry?
Altima?
Sonata?

Money is getting more expensive to borrow, so the great lease deals from the past are getting harder to find.

Chad2586

Hello, i have a few questions.

My lease expires on Aug 2019. My original lease is a 3yr/36k, i am currently at 34k miles. If i continue on my current track i will be at 45k miles by lease turn in.

My question is, should i go ahead and trade now for an 18 accord, or finish my lease? I am looking at paying $1400 in over mileage fees if i keep my current car. Does Honda normally wave mileage fees if you lease another Honda?

My salesman is recommending i go ahead and trade. Are there any other penalties associated with breaking a lease early?

Also i'm in NC, interested in number for a 2018 Accord Sport 2.0.

I am planning to go by the dealer to play with numbers.

So what info do i need for you all to make sure i'm getting a good lease?

kyfdx

Chad2586 said:

Hello, i have a few questions.

My lease expires on Aug 2019. My original lease is a 3yr/36k, i am currently at 34k miles. If i continue on my current track i will be at 45k miles by lease turn in.

My question is, should i go ahead and trade now for an 18 accord, or finish my lease? I am looking at paying $1400 in over mileage fees if i keep my current car. Does Honda normally wave mileage fees if you lease another Honda?

My salesman is recommending i go ahead and trade. Are there any other penalties associated with breaking a lease early?

Also i'm in NC, interested in number for a 2018 Accord Sport 2.0.

I am planning to go by the dealer to play with numbers.

So what info do i need for you all to make sure i'm getting a good lease?

Honda won't waive the mileage fees.

Your current lease will have a current payoff amount. The only way to get out without issues, is for the dealership to take the vehicle in trade. You'll need to know how much they are giving you for the vehicle vs. the payoff. If you aren't within $1000, it's probably not worth doing now. Make sure you get the real trade-in number. They may try to make it look good, but make it up on the new lease deal.

In other words.. don't break the lease deal. That could be very costly. But, if the dealership takes the car in trade and pays it off, then your costs are fixed.

okcbimmer1

Could I get the MF, Risidual Rate, and incentives for a '18 BMW X5? 73162

kyfdx

okcbimmer1 said:

Could I get the MF, Risidual Rate, and incentives for a '18 BMW X5? 73162

What term/mileage?

Chad2586

So i want you folks to look at this and tell me what you think. No credit was pulled today, these are just preliminary numbers. I was offered $17k for my Accord, went by Carmax and they offered 18K.

What is good enough to make the car worth buying now versus keeping it and paying the over mileage fees?

Thanks in advance.

Michaell

Chad2586 said:

So i want you folks to look at this and tell me what you think. No credit was pulled today, these are just preliminary numbers. I was offered $17k for my Accord, went by Carmax and they offered 18K.

What is good enough to make the car worth buying now versus keeping it and paying the over mileage fees?

Thanks in advance.

There is no way I'd pay $454/mo on an Accord Sport.

I see you have also posted in the Accord lease thread; I'll give you more detail over there.

If you are in a lease, best to ride it out to the end and deal with the charges then. Trying to end the lease early will likely cost you more, in the long run.

rbc2003

I did something crazy, I paid off my Honda Accord 36 month lease because I was planning on keeping the car at the end. I still have 20 months to go and I was talking to a Honda car salesman and he told me I could call Honda Financial and tell them I wanna go back to monthly payments and get my money back (which in my case would be a little over 4K because my payment was 206/month).
Has anyone ever done or heard of that?
Is it even possible?
I’d appreciate your help,

thanks

Michaell

rbc2003 said:

I did something crazy, I paid off my Honda Accord 36 month lease because I was planning on keeping the car at the end. I still have 20 months to go and I was talking to a Honda car salesman and he told me I could call Honda Financial and tell them I wanna go back to monthly payments and get my money back (which in my case would be a little over 4K because my payment was 206/month).
Has anyone ever done or heard of that?
Is it even possible?
I’d appreciate your help,

thanks

I've never heard that, but I suppose that if all you did was pre-pay the remaining payments, you could get them back if need be (those payments go into an escrow account and used to satisfy the monthly obligation).

Call Honda Financial and see what they say - and, let us know what you find out.

rbc2003

I called Honda Financial Service and indeed, they do return the money if you pay your entire lease after taking the car. They’ll mail me a check for about 4k
So that was a positive outcome!

Callifornia

Is it a GOOD or BAD idea to go to a dealer and say the following?

"I've done all my research, these are the numbers I'd like, I'll make the deal right now if you can make this happen. If not, no hard feelings, goodbye."

Or should I go in, just planning to haggle, starting at a price lower than I think is fair, etc.?

I'd really rather not waste too much of my time or theirs.

Thanks!

Michaell

Callifornia said:

Is it a GOOD or BAD idea to go to a dealer and say the following?

"I've done all my research, these are the numbers I'd like, I'll make the deal right now if you can make this happen. If not, no hard feelings, goodbye."

Or should I go in, just planning to haggle, starting at a price lower than I think is fair, etc.?

I'd really rather not waste too much of my time or theirs.

Thanks!

Nothing wrong with the direct approach. Given them one chance, then move on.

If enough dealers say no, will you bump your price?

Callifornia

Michaell said:

Callifornia said:

Is it a GOOD or BAD idea to go to a dealer and say the following?

"I've done all my research, these are the numbers I'd like, I'll make the deal right now if you can make this happen. If not, no hard feelings, goodbye."

Or should I go in, just planning to haggle, starting at a price lower than I think is fair, etc.?

I'd really rather not waste too much of my time or theirs.

Thanks!

Nothing wrong with the direct approach. Given them one chance, then move on.

If enough dealers say no, will you bump your price?

Yeah, that'd be my plan. To go into Volvo and say,
"I don't need to get the new car for another month or so; but I've got time this weekend and will lease one at the right price if you really want to move your 2018s. If you can't do it, no problem, and I'll have to go to VW and get a cheaper vehicle."
(and that's the truth)
At VW, my plan is to play more of the game and see how low they can go, and if not low enough "consider the offer", and if I don't feel I can come back to bring the price down further, move on to the next dealership. Or worst case, come crawling back and take their offer